Just a few comments from a homeowner. Use the app if you can. Works best to fire up the app standing right in front of the unit so that it connects. Will require you to do some thermostat functions to get it to pair, but not too difficult. In the app, you can set up everything, it's pretty straightforward except for understanding some of the ramp and stage profile choices, which are explained in the manual better. In regards to the AC tonnage - for a single stage system, the tonnage choice is used to set the blower speed at 40 cfm / 0.1 tons - ie 400 cfm for a one tone unit. You can tweak this for better dehumidification depending upon location. Also, assuming that you have a goodman matched coil system - you can look up the AHRI number for the system and it will give you the cfm that the system was rated at, which is ideally where you want the system to operate. so I have a 2.5 ton system, but its rated at 920 cfm, not 1000 so I set the AC to 2.3 tons, which puts the blower at 920 cfm. The unit does an incredible job of dehumidifying at this condition. Play around with the coolcloud app and see what is in there. Combined with a wifi thermostat, I have complete control over the system and it works great.
You clomp'in, and sloppiness on ur saliva/druel drove me right to the exhaust pipe of this unit. Few more huffs n I pray that sound is permanently deleted from my internal data base. Guud gawd, do yall ever preview your vids before post? 🤢
Thank you fornthe video. It helped me figure out the issue with my furnace and got it working with paying for a service call. Sadly it's a Trane and barely 3 years old. This isn't the first issue we've had with it.
As long as the furnace and the outdoor unit are both communicating equipment. If the heat pump or AC is not a Goodman or Amana communication unit, it has to be wired like a legacy unit and the furnace board has to be set up to let the Furnace know what the unit is and how much airflow you need.
I’ve been having issues with the Amana 2 stage furnace.. It wants to kick into 2nd stage right away with a single stage stat.. I know on Goodman you have the option set it up on “auto” if a single stage stat is present and it allows the single stage to do its thing if it’s not far from the set point.. Looked for answers online, and actually came across some guys on Reddit that said they had the same issue with the amanas wanting to skip 1st stage and start in 2nd stage. Is there any solutions?
Tried to connect using the app . It could not find the air handler . Called tech support because I found some articles where there was a small board plugged in on top of main . Tech support said they are now in the software of main board(2023) . No more aux boards. It still did not connect . Used buttons to program .
oh my god. please let only licensed and qualified AV professionals make videos! did you not hear (let alone see) the audio meter getting buried into overload??? the limiter is being slammed so hard the audio sounds like an EDM mix. The plosives (P, T, B, and D) are pushing the diaphragm of the mic past the point of its ability to reproduce sound. the handling noise makes me think you are holding a lav mic instead of having it affixed to your shirt. the information contained in the video is very well presented, however the audio quality is a complete disaster
Hi Santos, Thanks for your comment. I had some issues with the volume when I made this 13 years ago. I'm not sure if you know this but you can always adjust the volume on your device or continue on to other videos.
Have you guys ever had issues with the air handler Bluetooth not connecting? When I go to cool cloud app it says to search for near by devices, I click on that it loads but it never finds the Airhandler.
I often have the same issue. I do not like the cool cloud app. You should not have to depend or rely on an app to make adjustments. I realize you can use push buttons on the IFC board, but constantly putting the door on and also removing to maintain proper static, airflow and load on the motor assembly is excessive. I can usually connect to the app, but it takes a while and drops signal often.
I have a heat pump air handler communication system with non communicating condenser but I can’t make it work on heating only in cooling I try bunch of different tricks and I haven’t success
Hello. I just had installed a Goodman gsxc18 4 ton with avptc61d14 air handler. The tech didn’t know much about the app. And the setting for the constant fan speed multipler was set to 30% and no much air was coming out of the vents. Then he raised it to 70%. What should it be set to for efficiency to save on utility bill but be comfortable. Also when deciding to go with a two stage unit. I read that the two stage units have a longer running time for fewer on off times while still being efficient. But I feel like like turns on and off the same amount of times as my old unit. I live in sw Florida
This is funny, I’m getting ready to replace my Carrier with an Amana or Goodman and I’m watching videos. I have this EXACT stud finder on my desk that I’m looking at from across the room while I watch this haha 😂
How do you confirm pressure switch set point with the manometer? When your vacuum source is the one that creates the negative pressure. Instead of just reading show some examples.
Great video! I tried to disconnect the ground wire from the burner box, but the gas valve is still open,if the micro amp signal travels along this wire back to control board, the gas valve should be de-energized immediately once remove that ground wire,would you explain why,thx
Hello! I have an 80% efficiency Carrier Weathermaker TS8000 furnace that has developed a new 'whistle' sound when lit. At first I thought it was the draft induction motor because it sounds like it's coming from there, but the whistle only appears once the burners are lit. No whistle sound until then. I can run the main blower motor by itself in 'vent' mode, and no whistle. So it has something to do with the burners being lit I guess. Any ideas?
@@goodcitizen2895 It was, in fact, the draft inducer motor. The whistle wasn't appearing until the burners were lit because the draft inducer fan doesn't start to turn until the burners are lit. :)
@@goodcitizen2895 I just put a bit of pressure on the draft motor to slow it down just a bit to hear if the whistle sound changed pitch, and it did. That's how I proved it was the motor. I have not yet replaced mine as the sound has not gotten any worse. Seems like an easy enough job though. The motor is a bit pricey, at least in Canada. Approaching $200.00. I'll probably try to shut mine up with some lubrication before I replace it. Problem is, if you take it off, you'll likely ruin the gasket that seals it to the furnace, and you need that gasket (you don't want exhaust exiting into the living space). So... I wait, for now.
@@JohnnyRawksthe whistle seems to be random now, but the humming noise from motor is always on with that motor. I wonder what worst case scenario is if it magnetized. I worry about a house fire.
The video should have a closeup of the clip to show what's happening. They are like a lot of clips in that some plastic holders expand over the board to hold the board in. These can be compressed (with a Bic) so that the hole in the board can slip over them.
Please go back to the 4:07 mark of the video and listen again Buddy. I said the MAXIMUM inlet pressures for this valve are 7 in. w.c. for natural gas and 14 in. w.c. for LP. Again that is the MAXIMUM inlet pressure buddy. Thanks for your comment.
What percent do you use for the fan speed when set to Fan On all the time. Default is 25% but that seems way to low for the amount of air i feel coming from the vents. Thanks
Hi Sammy, Constant fan is best used to circulate the air for better comfort, especially in over-sized units that short cycle and don't allow for good, even air temperature mixture. You can use whatever setting you prefer but if all you are doing is wanting to keep the air moving for better circulation throughout the home, I don't see more than 50% being needed since you are circulating air 24/7. For Example: The GMVC960603BNBA has a maximum airflow capacity of 1400 cfm (this can be found in the specification sheets). At 25%, that's 350 cfm. A GMVC960803BNBA is rated as a 3-ton drive but it's maximum airflow is 1650 cfm or 412 cfm at 25%. The GMVC961005CNBA is rated for a maximum of 2200 cfm or 550 cfm at 25%. "Felt Airflow" from your registers or diffusers can be deceptive. Is it all of your supply's or just a few that you are feeling this "amount of air" coming out of? Increased velocity, the speed of the air coming out of your supply's doesn't equate to more actual airflow. Check your external static pressure and use that number to base your next move on. The average residential furnace can work with up to .8 in. w.c. but this also decreases efficiency, increases the energy usage of the motor, the customers electrical bill and can cause noise issues. The manufacturer recommends .5 in. w.c. and it's never a good idea to fix undersized duct problems with variable speed, constant volume units. I hope this helps. Instructor 12b
I have my fan only set at 60% which works well and keeps the temp even in the house (I also have a wood stove). I would say 40-70% range is about right with good duct work. Will filter and circulate your air.
great video. i have to troubleshoot a possible bad circuit board on my furnace and maybe a grounding issue too.. ....if it is a bad ground, can I just truck in a few yards of topsoil and dump it on/around the furnace to serve as a new earth-ground ??
