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If you are watching in the UK, these kits are available on Amazon but shipped from USA, about £40-60 pounds if you shop around. To be used when fitting ceramic undermount vanity basin, in addition to sink clips provided
This should be the default method for supporting flush mount sinks. I was surprised to discover ours was just held with epoxy. That failed after a few years. Epoxy alone simply fails in the long run. Ours gets loaded by the weight and vibration of the food disposal, plus heavy cast iron pans. This system allowed for a quick repair without having to disconnect anything below the dual sink. I really liked how the turnbuckles lift up the whole sink gradually with low effort. It compresses the silicone bead gradually to make a continuous and clean caulk seal. Great product! Much better that some imitations out there and much easier than using standard clips.
Just bought the kit, waiting for it to get here next week. The builder used what looks like a scrap piece of ply. im so excited and will will probably use these on ever future sink.
Made what I thought was going to be a hard repair very very easy! Won't have to worry about this sink falling again! Thank you Fabricators For Fabricators!
great device. can i use if on front and back of sink instead of sides. Cabinet blocks access to the sides of the sink. can i turn the top of this device that touches the sink parallel to the front of the sink and perpendicular to the side cabinet? Would it still hold, or does it require the inside of the sink to brace against to stop it from just sliding forward on the lower hinge ?
Been using these for a while now. Absolutely the best ones out there. I have had the knock off one delivered to me in the past trying to save a few bucks on the materials side of things because we do so many service calls BUT there's a reason why they are cheaper and come as a 5 piece kit vs the 3 pieces you get in this one. The materials of the off brand ones are substandard and they are harder to install in MANY ways from the lack of mounting tape to the travel distance of the arm and the method of arm adjustment using a hex wrench instead of just your hand. The junk ones are also MUCH smaller, both on the mount to cabinet side and the sink foot side. The sink foot on these is large, has 2 connect points to spread the load and measures 6.5 inches.... the junk ones have feet that only measure 2 inches each. This means 1 of these EQUALS 2 of the junk ones and you only have to put 4 screws holes in your cabinet vs 8. Material-wise, these are galvanized mostly with an aluminum rod so corrosion is a non-issue.... the other ones are the typical, cheap, chinsey Chinese thin chrome plating over some mysterious metal Alloy made of whatever they could get in the melting pot on the day they made them. The travel distance is much MUCH longer on these vs the junk ones. The junk ones you have to pay very close attention to your measurements because you only get about 1/2 inch of lift and no mounting tape so you have to fight with marking the location and being doubly sure it's exactly where you want it..... and you have to do that five times! With these you have approximately THREE INCHES of expansion to work with and mounting tape! This makes the install MUCH EASIER and you only have to do it twice vs five times! Junk ones adjust up and down with a hex wrench which is SLOW and cumbersome. These adjust with just your hand by turning the center shaft and you lock in your position with 1 nut! Also telling is that these guys provide an actual weight capability measurement of their product.... junk ones don't.... and if they do, knowing what I know, they are made up numbers or flat out lies just out there to sell an unsuspecting cheap skate a garbage product. These have a pin you pull to disconnect the arm from the cabinet mount... SIMPLE! The junk ones, yup, you guessed it, a hex bolt AND a nut. So, yeah, more tools to play with in a confined space while working with awkward weight. Yay. So that combined with the small 1/2 inch travel makes the junk ones a nightmare compared to these. The long travel on these allows you to install them without even thinking about having to remove that pin in most cases. Seriously, these you just stick it to the cabinet wall, roughly where you need it, put in 4 screws, twist the shaft with your hand to lift the sink and lock it in place with one nut. Do that twice and DONE! The cheaper "kits" make you do WAY more screwing around, more holes in your cabinet walls, have a much smaller margin for error and make you do all those tedious tasks 5 flipping times! And after all is said and done you still have substandard materials installed! Oh and the junk ones that come with a shorter arm vs the ratcheting clamp on this kit. GOOD LUCK getting the clearance you need to install the screws on the short arm with the tiny bit of space between the front of the sink and the inside of the cabinet! With this kit, that was thought about and it was designed in such a way that you can actually get the screws in easily to mount the clamp.... everything is facing you or has the clearance you need to get the screw in without saying bad words while bouncing screws or tools off your face while you're under there trying to do it. I also believe that the clamp here is better designed and stronger than the short junk arm because, again, it's made of the right material, it's strong and by design it prevents side to side movement and its a much more compact, clean and professional looking install. Also there is NO WAY to over tighten or over torque it so it basically eliminates the possibility of cracking that front, thin portion of the countertop while ensuring the clamp is actually doing its job. Last thing any of is want is a $5000+ cracked countertop to replace or repair over a flipping dropped sink. Genius. Nope! These are the best ones out there period! I will not use anything else on my clients projects. I use trusted materials in my business because my reputation is far too important to me to not do so. I, immediately, returned the junk ones as soon as I seen what garbage they actually were. It's worth it to me to save the time, the install frustrations and provide better materials on the completed work for an extra $10 or so. If I wouldn't do it my house, I don't do it on my clients house. I wouldn't install those knock off ones in my house... for all the reasons above so I damn sure won't put them into a client's house! These are the best, PERIOD! (I AM IN NO WAY AFFILIATED WITH THE MANUFACTURER! I buy stuff with my own money and I cannot be paid for a review. My integrity is not for sale. The views above are my own and are my opinions based on actual experience with the product. Take that for what it's worth.)
I have a much larger cabinet (than the sink) and the bottom flange of the sink is about 7 inches from the cabinet wall on each side. Will that create too much of an angle and compromise the support?
Great invention!!! And the spokesperson did a excellent job with instructions and tone of voice is kind of reassurance this product is the most simplest solution to this type of problem. Thank you for this information.
I wished i knew about this a couple a weeks ago, i had to drill up into my sister granite and cut a piece of steel and put anchors upside down to hole up the sink then re-install the disposal and the plumbing it was tough,, but i got . then i had to remove all the old caulk then reapply,, i wonder if this was all i needed? my question is how to remove all the old caulk? do you still have to do that B4 you push up the sink?
Just the big loose stuff.... anything that is obviously going to be in the way or cause issues. Silicone sticks to silicone so when you squeeze the new silicone in place it will flow and fill in the gaps and stick to whatever is remaining. You can run an additional bead and smooth it on the underside of the sink to counter contact point just to be sure if you are really worried about it but it's not necessary.
We need more companies like Fabricators for Fabricators in this country! Well thought out and easy to install product! Wish countertop installers would use it instead of Bondo and wooden blocks, LOL!
If you are on the fence about getting this just do yourself a favor and buy it. Saves so much time and effort. I would even venture to say if you are a professional and know the tricks of the trade this would be worth your money. I’m a commercial HVACR tech and am handy and good with repairs across multiple trades and this was amazing and easy. My wife actually did one side while I mounted the other one up. I can’t say enough good things about this product. I was able to take down my temporary mounts made from conduit and wood lol!! Wife was very happy.
Help... I love this idea, but our sink has a very narrow lip on the underside. Your video showed a lip of over an inch wide, I'm dealing with 3/8ths of an inch.. will this product work with such a narrow area to support?
I don't know if this answers your question, but I saw this on Amazon by the seller The thickness of the bracket head is 5/8" inch. The minimum amount of clearance needed between the sink wall and cabinet is approximately 3/4" inch.
Search Amazon for "under sink mount repair". Scroll to find these.... don't buy the cheaper ones that come with more stuff... they are junk. But if you are in the UK these might not be available on your Amazon.... if they aren't then settle for the cheaper ones.... they'll still work just not as easy to install and materials aren't as good.... hence why you get 5 pieces instead of 3 like this kit.
What would you recommend for a really good adhesive that would work well, given the fact that there's some existing (failed) adhesive there that you're not going to remove?
100% silicone will work just fine. You are replacing the old chemical bond, meant to seal and ~ hold weight~ with a mechanical method to hold the weight so all you need is to make it water tight...... and 9 times out of 10 your old adhesive to hold weight was attached to clips and the the ring around the sink is already silicone.... silicone sticks to silicone. You'd be amiss to use anything other than 100% silicone, such as a glue or adhesive because some of those products don't bond with silicone and even if they are meant for wet areas they will leak in the future. But silicone will bond with most all dried adhesives so whatever is under there already will bond with the silicone so you don't leak.
Darrick Lee yes that was the hardest part. Took forever to scrape all that off and I wasn’t great at making the new sealant not goopy. But I got the job done.
All the guys I’ve talked to on different job sites use 100% silicone. Remember it’s there to seal not hold the sink in place. It’s hard to beat silicone as a sealant.
100% silicone is all you should be using in this repair. It sticks to most cured glues, epoxy and adhesives that may already be on your surfaces and all you need to do is create a water tight seal not support weight.
I just installed this on my sink. It worked perfect. The hardest part was cleaning up the old caulk and re-caulking. I stink at that and made a huge mess. The product itself very solid and installation is a snap.
@@DarrickBLee I did not remove all the pipes I pulled the disposal and disconnected the drain on the non-disposal side of the sink. I was then able to lift the sink out the hole in the granite countertop. To clean the old caulk off the countertop and sink I used a razor blade, plastic scraper and steel wool. It was easy to clean the old sink easily enough but the underneath side of the granite took a little more work. All in all it was not bad the entire process took no more than 1.5 - 2 hours to remove the sink clean and reinstall.
Easier would just apply a new bead in the gap, install the mounts, then get underneath and run another bead around the underside and smooth it in to ensure a continuous run all the way around. I've done them that way for almost 20 years and they never call me back for leaking issues. 9 times is 10 that sink is staying there forever until they do a remodel. Even if they replace the sink down the line you would just have to drop the sink, quick scrap and then install the new one.
Good question. Depends on the moisture levels in the house as well as the type of metal in the hardware. Stainless would be ideal for life long durability and corrosion protection but the kit would most likely go from $37 to $80
It's an aluminum rod and galvanized steel on the thread so..... it'll be forever and day before signs of corrosion AND even then it would have to be an insanely wet environment!
Is this product available to purchase. No store link or any mention about buying the product. I see some comments about ordering. Looks like a great idea would like to fine who sells it.
Love this idea but my question is, the 3rd bracket at 0 :11 in this video. The short center bracket, Where do you put that ?? I used it on the center front of the sink. I just installed one of these kits for a customer today.
Jeffrey Thomas I have a question for you since you’ve installed already, Will the bracket work on fiberboard/pressboard cabinets? Also, yes the small bracket goes in the front. I read a review on Reddit where someone purchased two kits to get a second small bracket for the back.
@@genifa5291 yes it should work on MDF. If it's not starting to decay. If you have issues with your screws biting in then go to store and buy a screw with a thread that is more coarse. Or, Alternately you can cut wood blocks, screw them to the MDF and then use that wood surface to mount these.
