Paul Morbid, Owner of Bolex Repair Philippines servicing Bolex vintage 8mm, 16mm movie cameras. On this channel Bolex Enthusiasts can familiarize yourselves on Bolex cameras. Plus, discover tips & tricks on Experimental & Low Budget Filmmaking. Paul is also CEO of Morbid Team Entertainment. Currently shooting Experimental Horror film SIJ It's All About Choice started in 2023. Retired talent manager for Star Wars. Retired photographer for the late Actor/Bodybuilder Dave Prowse aka original Darth Vader. Took some photos for his books titled: Straight From The Forces Mouth Vols 1 & 2. Worked with the late Actor Peter Mayhew aka original Chewbacca & many more. 1St movie set experience was "Order Of The Black Eagle" released 1987 Action/Adventure.
*Fun Facts:
*Peter Mayhew smoked Dunhill red cigarettes*
*Dave Prowse loved Jelly Beans but hated Hamburgers*
*Actress Betsy Palmer aka Jason's mom was a friend of mine & would kiss me in public*
@@stikkisoxx hi Vintage Fujichrome can be processed at home for color. And b&w. I'm making experimental horror so knowing that the original Fujichrome will look bad that's the look I'm going for. When sending vintage film to a lab film rescue can process it but only in a negative. Upon that a filmmaker like myself wants to view our works via a vintage movie projector film usually has to be processed at home by the filmmaker. Retro8 in Japan processes vintage Fujichrome Single-8. However, it's unclear if they do so in both a + and -. Happy filming. ~Paul~
Thank you so much, this is so helpful!!! I am in the middle of a project and your replies are incredibly valuable. For the door screw, I went to the hardware store, and found a gun screw that fits pretty well there as a replacement. Would you recommend swap the screw or should I use a thread lock? Also as I was looking into the issue, I noticed on the other side, with the screw tightened, the spring under the O-F handle is pretty exposed. I don’t want to use the word “loose”, because by pressing it, I can still feel resilience, but the clear gap I am seeing there under the O-F handle doesn’t seem normal. Do you have any suggestions? After checking the free-up supply, it turns out to be alright. And I diagnosed the issue: what stopped the film to advance with the door closed is the “[ shaped” METAL PIECE, under the black pressing plate, right next to the door screw part. The metal piece supposed to hold the film down in the gate to avoid fluctuation. But mine is bent for some reason I don’t know, and eventually it presses too hard and film resists to run. I am guessing that it somehow got in the way of the door opening/closing, and over time just got bent that way. I tried to bend this piece back, no luck, film still doesn’t like it. Without it, film runs, but I don’t know if it’s stable in the gate. What should I do? Flatten it and sand it down maybe? Any of your insight will be great help. Thank you!!!
@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Hi, It's your choice to use the original Bolex screw or the replacement. Just make sure that upon using the replacement screw that when the camera door is closed to check between the sides of the door and camera body to make sure the door is completely meeting (closed) on to the camera body. As for the other bent metal piece a photo would need to be sent to me via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid or Bolex Repair Philippines Fb Page. Upon that I'm reading your comment correctly you mean the pressure plate. Thank you for the kind words. ~Paul Morbid~
Hello, my Bolex D8 suddenly stopped running films when the door's closed, would like to ask for your opinion. When I got this camera, I noticed that the door lock screw would just get loose no matter how much I have tightened it. It was not a problem for couple of rolls-I just kept tighten the screw once in a while. Then this part suddenly cause the feed reel stop free running when the door is closed. I tested with sharpie, when the door is open, motor sounds fine, the take up runs fine, the take up wind is tight, the pressure gate grabs and advance the film normally, the feed reel runs too. Then when the door is closed, everything else still works, but the feel reel won't turn, so no film get advanced. That's why my guess is that the locking mechanism is causing problems. 1. Could it be something else that I missed? 2. Is the locking piece too bent? 3. How to solve the loose door lock screw issue? Thank you so much!
@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Hi, The supply spindle and take-up spindle should turn freely. This action can be tested by turning the take-up spindle and supply spindle with the fingers. The supply consists of a metal large washer, hard leather pad, a bent oval washer. No lubricant is to be applied to the supply leather pad. The take-up spindle is metal pressed into (in part) the film compartment plate. Upon that the take-up spindle becomes too hard to turn it's usually become rusted. A few drops of weapons oil can be applied to the take-up spindle inside the film compartment at the spindle base then let the camera sit up side down for about an hour. After that you can attempt to start turning the take-up with your fingers. ⚠️Best not to dismantle the take-up spindle ⚠️ Upon that you wish to do so and it breaks and or you get cut it's all on you. As I let everyone know when 1St getting a vintage movie camera it's best to send it to a service technician for a new CLA aka Clean Lube and Adjustment. A Bolex is made of 4 types of metals. Therefore they rust and corrode easy inside. The Door lock should turn easy yet a bit firmly. Upon that I'm reading your comment correctly it seems to me that the seller could have worked on that Bolex, either put it together with different parts and either it's door lock is misaligned and or the film compartment plate isn't put back properly. The silver door lock is to sit almost on to the black part of the door with a slight space in between. Opening the it's door is to take a push-in then clockwise. Closing is to push-in then turn counter-clockwise. The door lock screw could be stripped and or off-center. To help correct this make sure the screw it slightly tight (too much can crack the lock housing) then apply a drop of Lock Tight aka Thread Locker. This product can be purchased from a hardware store. *You're welcome to send me photos and videos of the issue including the position of the door lock (photo) via morbidteamentertainment@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid or X:@paulmorbid. ⚠️"If" you decide to dismantle the camera 1St make sure to fully wind down it's motor. Otherwise the motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. If that happens there's no choice but to buy a junk camera of the same model with a working motor. Bolex never intended for the Standard Double 8mm camera motors to be repaired only replaced. Those motors are metal pressed together ⚠️. ~Paul~
@@user-wt2nw5dk1k Here you are. How To Secure Door Lock Screw & Free-Up Supply & Take-up spindles On Bolex D8L ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aEBFSe6AwlU.htmlsi=8m5oFq55jBhQCW_r
I think a good topic to show would be how you set the notch to 100D I figuerd you could use a piece of card but I have guessed at this and not had results yet I really find your videos very useful
BTW, I am interested in buying a Fujica single 8, how much luck have you had with old expired film? Have you tried the new cartridges available from Europe? Thanks again
Hi stikkidoxx, The quality is ok or bad at times when filming with original Fujichrome. However that's the look I'm going for as it's avant-garde horror being filmed. Haven't tried the new Single-8 film from Click&Surr as they told me it's prohibited outside the E.U. Therefore I'm going to have to discover the correct notching system then drill it into the back of my original Fujichrome cartridges for 100D. Then load Kadak 100D into the original Fujichrome cartridges. In addition new Single-8 cartridge files can be down loaded via Jenny List and 3D printed in SLA. The machine must a high quality one. There's also a company in Italy and check if they will sell to me. Here's my link for loading Kodak 100D into a Fujichrome R25 cartridge. The nothing system is to be shown later when figured out. Thank you for the kind words. In the description of my video is the link of Jenny List to download the new Single-8 cartridges. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r-qcDTFKYxM.htmlsi=M8inj1RIikKhwFE2
@@JOEBLACK1979 Hi, Currently I'm working on an experimental horror film that's keeping me busy. In addition when I am available the repairs within the Philippines. This is because of laws on shipping metals outside the Philippines. ~Paul~
70% isopropyl alcohol swabs ideal for moudly tape. (Best to clean by hand spooling cassette and working under the cassette tape guard..flip it up and hold by hand, have a napkin at bottom end (hold this with thumb across the napkin over tape travel area and holding flap open with this same hand , up the other end your isopropyl swab is folded , unfold and place tape in it, close like sandwich..hold this against tape with finger of same hand ( so flesh part of inner hand(thumb) hold tape flap with it, the thumb across the napkin in a diagonal up position..then your forefinger (first) across alcohol pad , pencil or pen in hole to allow brake to lift from spool rest this against side your body/chest then use your right hand to turn spools , change pad when seem dry..change napkin every session stop..youll stop before napkin too dirty..takes me around 10 sessions of hour each session..i do as watching tv..by end no more mould..Use n64 face mask to be safe or not if u not fussed. Youve cleaned a mouldy tape without having to slit spine stickers
70% isopropyl alcohol swabs work just fine..this low evaporates quicker which is beneficial for your tape when cleaning. Ideal for your tapes..(40yr experience with)
@@yousufsarfaraz2178 hi, When a Bolex motor is locked up don't wind it any further. One trick is to apply heat to it's motor via the silver turn key area. This is where it's motor's located. Do so for as 45 seconds off and on while pressing the camera shutter button. It's then possible the old lubricant inside it's clutch motor barrel would soften up so that the motor can be wound completely down.. *Note: Bolex didn't market the small Standard Double 8mm movie camera motors to be repaired only replaced* They are metal pressed together and can't be opened. The old graphite grease inside that Bolex 8mm clutch motor barrel usually has dried up over the decades. However, it's possible it'll start operating again after getting it moving. *Note:Bolex claimed the motors couldn't be over wound. But they can* Upon that your Bolex won't start working it's best to send it to a service technician for repair. It's not recommended to repair these cameras without experience.
Hi, I saw your videos on RU-vid. I have an old bolex p2 camera at home. I tried to film on her. something went wrong when i tried to rewind the movie. I tried to take it apart according to your video, but I couldn't fix anything. I can't crank the motor and thus the camera doesn't work. do you have any good advice?
@@peterkovacik1976 Hi, It could be that it's motor is out of synchronization after reinstallation. Or the spring in the clutch motor barrel broke. Upon the motor being broken another motor from a scrap Bolex P2 would be needed. Bolex never marketed the Standard Double 8mm (small camera motors) to be repaired only replaced. The motors in the small 8mm Bolex cameras are metal pressed together. This is the reason. An attempt to keep setting it's motor back correctly can be done. Or send it to a service technician for repair.
Hello sir, thanks for your video. If you don't mind, here's my problem : when I switch from OFF to R, a motor sound starts but I can't shoot video and pulling the trigger does nothing. Do you think a wheel inside might be broken ? Thank you very much for your help
@@Tovohx Hi, Reads like it's the gear near the motor that's broken. Usually there's also a cracking noise with it. It's caused by the issue pointed out in my video. Solution: buy a different brand of camera. And not another Canon 514XL-S.
Paul sir. I have this cameras sister from the same year. Based on the serial number it looks like it’s a 1948 camera. Mine needs some work so I’ve been willing to do what it takes to get her back into shape. Thank you for keeping these amazing machines alive
Hi @user-hc4gd6km5m, Forgive me for being unable to fully understand your question. However motors in various models can be different in Bolex cameras. ⚠️"If" your Bolex motor requires servicing it's best to send the camera to a service technician. That repair is for a professional ⚠️ Thank you for the kind words.
Hi @user-hc4gd6km5m, Forgive me for being unable to fully understand your question. However motors in various models can be different in Bolex cameras. ⚠️"If" your Bolex motor requires servicing it's best to send the camera to a service technician. That repair is for a professional ⚠️ Thank you for the kind words.
@@MORCOPOLO0817 Hi, As pointed out in my video the finished film will look vintage. It won't be crystal clear clean. It's going to look like a beautiful original vintage (that the film would be then) film. All those overlays that look like scratches for a vintage movie that repeat themselves about every 4 seconds are easily created by hand on an original vintage viewer/editor. Computers are only used by filmmakers who prefer that digital crystal clear look. From my generation during the 70's-80's this was understood. It's that when Single-8 and Super8 cameras were put away in grandad's closet for decades a new generation discovered them fortunately. And filmmakers such as myself are grateful this new generation of filmmakers shooting on film. When a filmmaker wants to make a movie so clean that the make-up of the talents face is visible that's too clean. It is to me. Otherwise, a filmmaker should just shoot digital.
@@paulmorbid1476 I guess my question is this: Are you making the film for your own personal enjoyment, to sell, put on the internet for others to enjoy or all of the above? if you plan on making money on it or putting it on the internet, computers will come into play at some point in the game. You will need to transfer it digitally.
@@paulmorbid1476 I guess my question is this: How do you intend to show the film and to what audience? Obviously if you are going to show it on the internet or distribulte it you will haved to at some point go digital. And if that is the case you will have to transfer it to digital. And in this case you might as well edit it digitally. I get the interest in using celluloid as a capture medium. Personally, I prefer film over digital for storytelling myself. It's your post production plans that I am curious about. If you are just making the film for your own personal viewing and friends and family then you can get away doing everything manually.
@@MORCOPOLO0817 , I understand your point however it must be understood that 1St bucket processing is superior over digital as that process at the beginning provides all the scratches and drop out needed. In addition, by hand adding effects via a bent paper clip (film scratching) with writing etc is king. Film painting including other effects of the like (check my experimental videos concerning these subjects) are added to the film. Plus adding chemicals to discolor the film with a brush. After that a film a easily be edited via a vintage viewer/editor. A dv cam is only needed to upload a movie to an online market. Also, there are other ways to make a film look trashy (as I put it). Of course films are to be sold. Then there's film festivals that (for experimental works) where vintage projectors are used to show films in the true fashion. Some secrets are mine and maybe one day I'll pass those on. Some that have been developed by myself and some from working with Star Wars talent when managing them years ago.
Hello, I have an old H16 NR S/N 10779. When trying to remove the lens mount, I find there isn't enough room to pull it out, even with the spring clips stretched out. And one thing i have noticed is, the threaded center piece is longer on mine. It seems to have as much sticking out with mount on as yours does, once you remove it. The clips holding it in place seem to be moving like your and I've defiantly pushed them as far as they can go. Mine doesn't have a handle on the front, if that matters. Wondering if this a common thing and if there is a way around it. Thank you.
@@rickyspanish2517 Hi, You're welcome to email me some photos and videos of this via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com. *In addition as I always point out it's best to sent a camera to a service technician for repair. A Bolex (or any vintage movie camera) camera contains tiny screws, springs, glass elements etc that can get lost in the blink of the eye. Therefore whatever mistakes made to your/a camera in any attempt to repair/service your/a camera are on you* I am willing to view the photos and videos you send to me concerning this. A service technician would give that Bolex a new complete CLA that it most likely needs.
@@rickyspanish2517 , Keep in mind not to force the Bolex turret aka lense mount. That turret could be extremely rusted and or corroded. There have been times that some Bolex owners had glued the turret so that it wouldn't move or rotate.⚠️this is not to be done⚠️. Turret caps are available to screw into each available area on a Bolex turret where there isn't a lense attached.
@@rickyspanish2517 , It's very possible the shuttle blades are in the way. View all my videos. The one provided below could help you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x-DuN7Z2CKw.htmlsi=ljltZYx2GVd6Tycv
@@polaroidbarber , I took a closer look after recording that video and noticed some light corrosion starting. Batteries in any camera should be removed when not using it. Here's a video of mine on camera battery corrosion. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EUhuirBg3Uk.htmlsi=YbArbxP_h4DwnGlU
@@sanmaran1 Hi, Try gently turning it to the right. Then turning, turning and turning the lense. Don't force it. Also, attempt in applying heat (via a hairdryer ) to the mount up to about the center of the lense for about 30 seconds. This is to loosen any old lubricants. Don't heat the glass elements as this can break them. ⚠️Don't heat the lense too long or the glass elements could crack.⚠️ Just enough heat to loosen any old lubricants. ⚠️Any mistakes made to you projector in any attempt to repair/service it are on you ⚠️ Upon this doesn't work you're welcome to send me close-up photos of the lense mount via bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com, Instagram:Paul Morbid. *I do not use messenger* Thank for viewing and your question.
@@sanmaran1 The old lubricant needs to be cleaned off with 99.9% rubbing alcohol. Don't get any on the glass elements. The reapply sewing machine oil in it's place. Here's my video below. However the process isn't being shown. But removing the lense on my Elmo FP A is. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tKSQ124O55o.htmlsi=rskhJZ5Gm5TIRBbT
Hi Paul, I know this video is old, but I will give it a go. My boyfriend just tried to "help me" by putting some wd-40 on the latch of a canon shure shot that wasn't working, so backdoor wasn't closing. Now I'm quite scared that the camera will get ruined. Should I just open the camera and try to clean the oil out? The camera was working perfectly.
@@erissylvain Hi, Upon that the WD-40 was sprayed on any plastic parts and gears it needs to be removed. Plus the operation of the camera will splash it around. In addition the WD-40 odor can give the same effect. If you're going to disassemble the camera make sure you have the knowledge of doing so. It's always best to send a camera to a service technician for repair/servicing. Keep in mind that cameras are filled with tiny parts, springs, micro screws. ⚠️Note: a point and shoot camera with a built in flash is dangerous to open. Because it's flash has to be defused. Otherwise, it can give the person touching the inside of it a big shock ⚠️ Every time a camera with a built in flash is turned on it's flash is recharged. It can be usually heard when turning the camera on. *Any mistakes you make to the camera and or your person in any attempt to repair/service a/ the camera are you* I'd highly suggest sending the camera to a technician for repair. Below is the type of lubricant used for plastic gears and parts. *Start viewing at 16:50. Thanks for viewing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o4-b2-LMMaM.htmlsi=5XJONkzNxOgVI4uP
@paulmorbid1476 Luckily, he told me that he didn't spray it directly to the camera, he left a drop fall into the hole where the backdoor latches. But I do can smell the wd-40. Sadly, I live in a fisherman's town, and I have really no technician to go to. Thanks a lot to take the time to answer.
@@erissylvain , Just hope for the best. The lubricant to use in cameras (for the metal on metal) is weapons oil. Check the light seals to make sure no WD-40 go on them. If so then they will need to be replaced. WD-40 is also hard on the glass elements (lenses, viewfinder glass etc.). You're very welcome.
@@erissylvain , By the way. Try opening the film compartment door then setting the camera on a table in front of a window where the sun can shine into the film compartment ( empty of course) with no film inside. This could help get rid of that WD-40 odor. Because it could affect the film when a roll is put into the camera. Especially if a roll stays in it for a long time.
@paulmorbid1476 Thanks a lot. If there is something I do have is sunshine :) Im going to leave it ventilating for a while before using it again. I was able to clean the little oil I saw from the sides with a cotton bud. Like yiu said, let's just hope the damage is not instant and exteme. Never again, lesson learned!
thanks for your videos. I recently bought a 310XL that had fungus on the rear element and i used your series here to figure out how to disassemble the lens. i was able to remove the fungus, but i don’t know if i correctly put it back together. especially with the focus ring. i’m able to go from 1M to infinity physically on the focus ring, but in the viewfinder it FEELS like the focus barely changes. maybe i didn’t install it correctly. you didn’t go over it on this series, but do you have another video where you take apart a lens that is similar to the 310XL? so i can follow along and ensure i reassemble correctly. thank you!
Hi @CarloTimothy, I'll be getting back to the Canon 310XL series in time. As I pointed out the lense element housing just crumbled (as usual) with these models. Got to put it back together then reconstruct it. These cameras take lots of time to repair and are very old now. In addition the cheaper the parts makes it to where the parts many times have to be reconstructed. Thanks for viewing and for the kind words.
You repeatedly say “if you choose to do the repair yourself, it’s on you. Well I see now why you say that. I was following your video about a Bolex camera repair and was getting impatient with the speed/care you were taking so I stopped your video and moved forward with my Bolex repair on my own. The motor wasn’t running so when I attempted to take the motor out the whole camera went flying and pieces flew every where! I received a cut to my arm and now have a box of parts. Frustrated and bruised, I went back and finished watching your Bolex repair video. Lessons learned, 1. it’s on me 2. LISTEN TO PAUL. Thank you for all of your very informative videos
@@IknowsPickin Hi, Bolex cameras are meant to be serviced by a knowledgeable technician. The spring must be fully wound down (before) dismantling the camera. And even then the spring within it's clutch motor barrel is prewound to a point. Dismantling the Bolex otherwise can damage gears, break it's spring including that to the person working on it. As I point out in my videos these repairs take time. This is also why customers call service technicians asking "what's taking so long with my camera". A Bolex (or most any vintage movie camera) is made of many types of metals. The technician is working with rusted and corroded screws, springs, tiny parts and gears etc. I even have a video showing the power of a Bolex H-16 spring that jumps out of the clutch motor barrel. And when that clutch barrel hits the floor and wall at high speed it bends it. Then it's useless. Patience and experience is the only key when servicing/repairing vintage movie cameras. Hope your ok, for viewing and for the kind words.
@@IknowsPickin , Here's my video on a much easier method of winding down a stuck Bolex spring motor on a H-16. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DjlZRf_q3OU.htmlsi=-bE5BopjIN36gZzv
@@IknowsPickin , Here's my video showing a Bolex main spring within it's clutch motor barrel flying out. This is showing the "power" of that spring either during removing it or installation. Usually a service technician would use a device known as a "Spring Winder". This device is for re-installing the spring. The spring is placed into the winder along with the clutch motor barrel. Then the spring is wound down small. After that the Spring Winder inserts the spring into the barrel. This is a hand operated machine usually used by in clock repair. Here's my video showing the power of a Bolex H-16 spring flying out of the clutch motor barrel. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fEMQiWs8j5o.htmlsi=uy8hVh4m6EZZACvX
@@ionkight8853 Hi, As soon as time allows. However, this isn't a repair anyone should perform other than a service technician. Upon that you have an issue with the motor in that model Du All Camera would be the place to send it. Here's the link at the bottom. Thanks for viewing and the kind words. ~Paul~ Du All Camera www.duallcamera.com/
@@Bodegajuju Hi, Here's my video on what lubricant to use. If you want to get right to it start viewing at 16:40. No need to lubricate the motor. Only it's gear. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o4-b2-LMMaM.htmlsi=bfM6eGtnsbQauZel
Hey Paul. FYI - I can't find the clip I recently commented on that you'd responded to, but I was looking for solutions for a battery for a Bolex S1. You'd recommended some batteries and shared some links and just letting you know I ended up going with some LR50s (which are 1.5v instead of 1.4v) and these seem to work out. While you may not get asked this question again by anyone, just thought I'd share as the solution wasn't easy to find. I'll be doing some testing but hopefully the slight change in voltage won't make a significant change in light metering. Anyway, thanks again for your insights (and helpful warnings about how difficult it is to repair S1s) and thanks for posting other advice on Bolex cameras.
@@kylerobertson , I just replied to you via your comment. My reply is within my previous reply. However, here's the two different batteries from B and H Audio and Video. Do read again my reply with what was pointed out. Thank you for the kind words and happy filming. B and H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell+battery+a14px+3v+alkaline+battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps
@@kylerobertson , Here's the second battery. B and H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/96457-REG/Wein_W9901201_MRB625_Cell_1_35v_Zinc_Air.html
@@fotovandenatuur Hi, My experience is with vintage movie cameras including vintage point and shoot. However, looking at the camera it seems like some pieces could be cracked underneath. That is what could be causing the issue. Best to send the Nikon D200 to a professional camera shop for repair. You don't want to get into servicing a camera and get overwhelmed at what can be in there.
Hi Paul, do you have a video on dismantling and clean the top viewfinder of a non reflex? I started unscrewing mine but couldn't get to the middle glass nor the prism, and those are really dirty :/
Hi @thavari, I do have videos on a Non-Rex Bolex. But not of a Non-Rex viewfinder as of yet. Reason being that about every six months or less rust starts to form inside them. I will point out that your Bolex should get a professional CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment asap. This is because fragile parts such as it's governor could be rusted out. I have videos on that as well. It's highly recommend to 1St view those videos on the Non-Rex to get an idea of many situations. In my video the Non-Rex Bolex is filled with rust and unrepairable. However, a filmmaker gets to view the ins and outs. Keep in mind that a Non-Rex Bolex is more difficult to service than a Rex. It's highly recommend to send your Bolex to a service center such as Du All Camera. You would find that dismantling a Non-Rex Bolex is trying. To reassemble the camera can be worse. I would not suggest servicing that camera yourself. *Note: any mistakes you make to your camera and or to your person in any attempt to repair/service your camera are on you* Here's the link to Du All Camera www.duallcamera.com/
Hi @ yakovendelman, As in my video what you see is what you get with servicing the Canon 514XL-S. Unfortunately it's just a terrible model as pointed out for the reasons in the video. Most likely this model was declined to be serviced when issues occured that were too deep to repair. Back over 30 years ago my shop would explain that this model would take so much time in labor that the cost wasn't worth it. Fisher VCR's were the same. Awful machines. The Canon 514XL is ok. However I'm not a fan of the Canon cheaply made lense housing system. Today it's worse because the cameras are 50, 60,70 years old. Nizo is good. But the dials are wearing out due to age. Bolex Super8 are some of the worst. Find yourself a Bauer, Gaff, Minolta and a Beaulieu just to name a handful. Send the camera to a technician for a CLA aka Cleaned Lubed and Adjustment before filming with it it. I prefer Single-8. A Super8 camera can be far more difficult and time consuming to service. This is due to the pleather coverings that have to be removed. And some things were meant to be put together and not taken apart very much. This...is how companies made money in selling customers another camera. The Canon 514 XL-S is widely known to many as a camera to avoid. ~Paul~
Thanks for the video. One question - What battery is used for the S1 (in the grip) and if it’s a discontinued battery, can an alternative be used? I have an S1 that didn’t have a battery in it (no corrosion) and not sure what to put in. All else seems functional.
Hi @kylerobertson, I haven't touched a Bolex S1 in some time are they are almost unrepairable. So concerning the battery that I can recall some filmmakers use two 1.35 v zinc air battery. Brand (Wein). Upon you choose this method a thin cardboard or paper housing would probably have to be made to fit around both batteries that are stacked upon each other. These batteries are available on Amazon. Or, another replacement can be purchased via B&H Audio and Video. This battery is alkaline. Some prefer zinc air battery. Some filmmakers alkaline. Test everything with and external exposure meter and a film test is suggested. This is because depending where your filming or the season the battery can be affected. Plus it's a replacement battery. I've added the link for the batteries form B&H. At the bottom. *I would suppose the alkaline battery would be a better choice. That's up to you. Not to many use the Bolex S1 (and like models) as they had high failure rates. The motor is cheaply metal pressed, exposure meter issues and to dismantle the camera for servicing the aluminum plus pleather coverings have to be heated off with a hairdryer. Many coverings in these models are held on with glue. Just added that to help you* Thank you for the kind words and for viewing. B&H Audio and Video www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell+battery+a14px+3v+alkaline+battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps 1.35v zinc air battery www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/96457-REG/Wein_W9901201_MRB625_Cell_1_35v_Zinc_Air.html
@@paulmorbid1476 thanks for the help! Got the S1 for $25, so even if it doesn’t last, I won’t be put out too much. Will check out the batteries… Alkaline…
Yes ! i agree ! my first super 8 camera is a GAF ST / 104 and when i buyed, she dont worked, and a friend, soldered the wire to the battery compartment, and the film shooting part started working again. However, the base of the lens is loose, and the zoom does not work. Furthermore, it has a problem because it appears dust in the view finder, but it only appears if I move the camera up or down. Anyway, I'm going to buy another super 8 that has been reviewed, a Canon Auto zoom 318M. And so I can start a short film with her. I also bought a new compartment for the Duracell batteries to the GAF ST / 104. I still don't have the battery for the photometer. The photometer battery has to be 2.7V, but I can't find it. Could it be that if I put two 1.5V batteries wrapped in aluminum, will the photometer work? Thank you for your attention ! Congratulations on the channel!!
Hi @diegocarrion8338, Some filmmakers use two 1.5 alkaline batteries for the exposure meter replacement. However they must be wrapped in a thin cardboard/paper. For the bottom and top of the battery to make contact a small spring that fits just in the center (bottom or top) depending on what's required is needed at times. Or just some aluminum foil. But make sure the spring or foil on stay in the center and don't touch the sides of the battery compartment if it's metal (that has no battery holder). It's best also to perform a film test. Understanding that the 3volt difference affects the exposure meter including the auto exposure. This way it can be checked to the camera that's used if that' + or -. B&H Audio and Video have had a replacement 3volt alkaline battery. Here's the link. Thank you for the kind words. B&H Audio and Video 3volt alkaline battery www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=exell%20battery%20a14px%203v%20alkaline%20battery&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps
Om the Bolex 150, 155 and 160 Super 8 camera, if you leave the batteries in them for even a short time and they leak/corrod, they can kill the motor and the clips that hold the batteries in can break too early. Too bad, because they have great picture quality. Also, some Fuji Single 8 cameras seem to have battery compartments that shrink, which I ran into with a Z2 that was not working. Some models have plastics so old, they just crumble no matter what you do, like all Kodak Super 8 cameras, save the M2 and M4, but even they have issues. Thank you for another vital video.
Hi @lgustavomata, Check with Du All Camera. These Super8 cameras (especially these Canon models) are very tedious to repair. And costly in doing so. It's wise to send the camera to a service technician for repair.
Hi @afriendwithatruck, Unfortunately I can only service cameras within the Philippines (upon that you're in the pearl of the orient). Reason is that the Philippines has an issue shipping some metal items out of the country. In addition some couriers tend to charge an under the table fee when shipping a popular quality item out to of the Philippines. Depending on what the issue is with the camera you could possibly repair it yourself. ⚠️Just 1St remember to fully wind down the Bolex motor. Otherwise during dismantling it's spring motor will instantly unwind and snap to a stop becoming broken. The Bolex Standard Double 8mm camera motors are metal pressed together (the clutch barrel) that is. If it would break the only solution is to find another camera of the same model and transfer that motor into the other Bolex. Bolex never only meant to have the motors of the Standard Double 8mm cameras replaced. Not repaired. What seems to be it's issue. You're welcome to send me some videos via Email: bolexrepairphilippines@gmail.com ~Paul~
