I have this pen and when I last filled it, ink flooded into the section that holds the nib even through the pen and all the seals are new. Now there is blue ink captured in the plastic part that holds the nib onto the pen. I unscrewed the nib, removed the nib and soaked the little section, but the ink is trapped into and I can’t see a way to loosen the seals. Any advice?
I've never had that issue so not sure what is going on. First, I'll assume that you have the small o-ring that fits in the back after you unscrew the "black plastic" that holds the nib.I've never had any ink in the clear part that hold the "black plastic" part. I also have never or never had to separate the actual nib from the black plastic part.. again unscrewing the complete black-plastic w/ nib and not loosing the o-ring is all that I needed to do. Hopefully someone else with your issue can chime in.
I don't have this car any longer, but when I did, and from what I remember my clock wasn't working either and after the fix, the issue was still there. My car lasted over 300K so if you have the ability to do so, best to send the instrument cluster in to be repaired professionally then you'll get many years of enjoyment. In terms of the lights, you will want to replace "ALL" the bulbs behind the cluster once you get into it. You'll just need to find either original incandescent light or newer LED's which I didn't have at the time. Hopefully others can share their experience and answer your question better.
I had something odd occur. I tried this and got partial success so I had it in and out of the car several times. One of the times I put it back to try something I put it back without the dials attached. When I finally put it all back together and reinstalled the dials they no longer functioned. Is it possible that using it without the dials pushed on ruined those controllers?
So clearly this is an issue. Not sure I should be drinking from a cracked plastic unit and heating it up Moore not sure that that is caring anything. Got it buy a better material. Thank you.
The bottom part of this unit that breaks off actually doesn't touch any of the liquid/coffee , but doesn't stay on very well either. Some prefer the glass version of Hario, a personal preference, others like the plastic because of its heat insulating properties and retention of heat.
I think the product on amazon has changed. The back of the phone holder does not look like that and I do not know how to connect that metal piece to it
@@alexandermilleriii499 I updated the amazon link to one similar to my original one. There are more.. just need to do a search for " cell phone holder vent mount" on amazon or elsewhere and look for ones where the clamps can be tightened. the one you saw with the clip "may" work if you drill a hole that allows for the clip to attach to similar to a vent louver - otherwise fining one that attaches and tightens is the easiest. Good luck!
Helo. Its been a while since I had that car, but I don't recall specifically looking and/or seeing that code via an ODBC. What I set out to do at the time was to do what most had done in order to deal with the issue that was coming up rather than the specific code. Hopefully others who see your question can comment.
Hopefully others can chime in, but its been a long time since i had that car. From an engineering standpoint, if "re-flowing" the solder for any of these components "fixes" issues vs. out-right replacement, then it makes sense to "re-flow" as many high-number pin components as possible which you have the cluster out, just like you'll want to replace all the bulbs while you do this work vs. replacing only the burned ones. At the time, I'm guessing I too relied on other youtubers or online contributors to determine the most likely culprits for the issues..
I had my second one just go out....i have a guy who reflowed all the items i have been shown for a " dead dim" 02 v70 xc....my highbeam check engine and seatbelt lights all work.my odometer and clock are visible w a flashlight.....im looking for a schematic if anyone knows how to get one!! Aghhhh.
Great video , thank you. I need to do this on my Volvo S80 2002, as the dashboard keeps going on and off, when its cold outside its off most of the time. Need to buy those penns and do the job.
Thanks going to try this soon on my volvo. Local shop quoted 600.00 for new board replacement and says mine won't be repairable. Hope to prove him wrong..
I got rid of my Volvo about a year ago. It had over 300K miles on it. If it didn't have a blown head gasket (probably due to an old trip in Arizona where the car had to be running with the AC on the side of the road in 120 deg temps) this car would have easily gone for another 100K miles if it continues to be well taken care of. I share this because if this is a car you'd like to keep, spending $600 is a good deal. Just make sure they replace all the bulbs in the process - thats a pain to have a bulb go out after a repair. I went through this process at a time where cash was a BIG issue and had to make this car work over a weekend and at the time I could not be without a car for over a week to send the cluster for repair. Anyway, good luck with this and don't forget the comment about powering down the car and draining any residual charge (if I remember correctly).
Absolutely. Thanks for your comment. In most cases you have to get the full setup. Making a DIY contraption like this, allows you to configure any third party phone holder..not just ones made for VW Tiguans. I made this because I wanted to re-use my existing holder that I used on a Volvo I not longer had. I didn't want to buy a setup dedicated to just a Tiguan, specially since I wasn't keen on keeping the car long term.
Hi! if you don’t want to do this method why can’t you just go buy a cluster at a car junk for example ? would that not work? and then just delete all codes?
Thats a good question. Its been a while since i've had this Volvo but I remember when I was looking at the online company that provided the repairs for these clusters , that was not an option or at least one still needed to send in one's own cluster so that they could "program" the donor one. This at the time made me believe getting one from the junk yard was not an option. You will want to research that further.
They all have the same issue even if you replace it eventually it will go bad, and that is exactly what I did, first tried to fix myself and it worked for a bit and then replace one from junk yard and it broke again, I've been looking for a replacement at the junk yards for months now, nothing, ebay nothing, amazon nothing, not many out there and you have to match the exact part number not just the year/model at times, but buying new its not an option $1200 per unit for model, it costs more than the vehicle at this point.
I was looking for a demonstration, not a "this is what I did video", still some useful background info but dude! Film yourself actually dong things please
This video is really not about re floating surface mount devices. In fact, I think by now there are lots of better sources and tutorials on this subject. this is more about how to go about dealing with this issue if you are at a dead end. Refloating is/was definitely not my expertise!
My 2004 S60 doesn't look like this when I opened it up... The only way to get the board out requires all the gauges to be removed also. Any suggestions?
I contacted Volvo and the only problem with doing that is it will store the memory from the last car, kilometers etc... And it won't match the VIN. You'd have to take it to a Volvo dealership and get it mirrored and a software upgrade.
You can get a new one from eBay but then you got to do millage correction. Or you can get old one fixed. Hope this helps www.upfix.com Here is the service link www.upfix.com/product-category/repair-return/icp-instrument-cluster-repair/
That company was called Volpar and not sure if they are around any longer. In general you would be better served replacing these bulbs with an LED equivalent if possible since the incandescent onces tend to burn out quickly.
Good morning Random Acts of Kindness, Thank you very very much for posting this video. I have got the same car ( same year as well) and the same problem. I do not have any experience with what I see you are doing in the video. I am from the SF Bay area as well and I was wondering if you could help me repairing my cluster panel. Thanks for letting me know and have a great day
Gabriel, Hi. I can't really help you on this personally. I only did this for my personal car and I did this work at a time where this felt like the only option. Here are some thoughts. (a) These cars are great cars. I have close to 300K miles on it, that's with 100K miles after a head gasket issue. These will run a long time if you choose to fix them properly. If you have the means and flexibility to get it done properly, I highly recommend this since its easy to "screw" up the cluster if you do something wrong. At the time I did this video, the instrument cluster could be sent to a company (google search) that will take the instrument cluster and repair it properly and return it to you. If you don't feel comfortable removing the cluster yourself, you can take it to a volvo mechanic to remove. The only downside is that you won't be able to drive it away at that point and will need to allow the car to sit at the mechanic till you get it shipped/fixed/returned. If you choose to remove it yourself, just remember to disconnect the battery before doing so. That the best suggestion I have. Good luck.
I don't know how many times I've had this board out of the car. I can get it out in pit-stop time now (2-3 minutes). I have re-flowed all the IC's, fet's, wombles and gubbins modules. Although I have fixed various anomalies, I have yet to reliably repair the intermittent high-beam indicator. **cking thing is still on the fritz, but I'm not giving up! I've actually improved the whole thing somewhat. No, it's not the frickin bulb, lamp, globe, luminaire, etc. Sometimes when I get in the car, the display says, "Drivers mouth open". I check the mirror and I'll be damned if it isn't right! I think I may have reflowed some of my soul into this thing. I wonder if this is how Christine got started and why some socks fall down. When I finally find the open circuit, I shall post a video of epic proportion. My plan is to get her up to top speed. I reckon about hmm.... without buoyancy... ~90 m/s as terminal velocity is going to my best bet. It doesn't require any expensive mods and is usually just a short drive away for most people. If you don't have a handy canyon, then powerful explosives (be sure to ask mum and dad first) might be a good option. It wont go very far but, it will get there quickly.
My new 2004 S60 D5 has the same issue with the info-screen. It turns green and has black squares on it. I've seen it work properly three times during the three weeks i've owned the car. I've heard of this problem and i want to repair it so i can use the Webasto
@@gangigooga7710 Didn't have to. I learned the heater controls so i don't need the screen to start it up. Besides, the heater broke in November so it doesn't matter anymore. Just gotta check fluids every now and then as i can't check the screen for problems.
I have the same clus6, 2002 V70, when it minus 30 Celius works 20% of the time, when it plus 35 it seems to work better. I'll give it a whirl. Fu@@ing VDO gauges
Peter, I tend to agree with you.. I would recommend sending it to a pro to do the work. This is a last resort on a car that's not worth much to keep. Mine has been working fine except for the clock. Regardless, your response would be helpful to others if you had more to share than "Terrible".
Many thanks all the details for the repairing of the DIM. Unfortunately I could not find and see your and other similar videos with this method of repairing, and I decided and did the repair by redoing the soldering of each pin of the IC by using a controlled temperature soldering station with an extremely small soldering point, the same I used for several electronic repais and finally I could repai the instrument that become to work again properly and perfectly. Again compliment for your documented method of repair.Ciao, Alfredo.
I did it the same way, reheated all pins individually for 3-4 seconds with a professional Metcal soldering station with a fine tip. It was not so easy to remove the blue gunk, so I did the reheating without removing it. I put the tip right at the border between the pin and the PCB pad. Some of the blue stuff bubbled away. I have had intermittent pixel problems on the dot-matrix display, so I removed the 2 flex-cables and cleaned the contact surfaces. You push the white parts toward the card edge to release the connectors. There was no heat transfer paste for the voltage regulator, so I added that (both sides of the small heat sink). I added solder to the 3 identical chips you can see in the upper right corner from 20:46 The DIM works OK now. It is a 2003 V70 with 317000 km (200 000 miles).
God Dammit Volvo engineers it's disgusting to repair, even simple things Goddammit. This company should disappear from the market. Or have a better engineer. Goddammit, Volvo. Nice video and explanation. I totally respect the skills. Thank's !?
