I want to print logo and images on 35mm film To prepare slides in projector for logo projection Can you suggest me what are the printer and films required for this?
A quick way to be humbled is to look at the best work that is being done with one's "old camera" and compare it to one's own. This mind game has saved me a lot of money. Good video.
You, and most people, get this wrong - partly. By not emphasizing the fact that your images are “acceptably sharp” front to back and not “critically sharp”. Only photos taken at the actual hyperfocal distance will be critically sharp. From that point towards the camera and towards infinity sharpness will fall off to what is considered acceptably sharp. There is nothing magic about hyperfocal focusing, your camera will not produce sharp images from 5 yards to infinity just because your lens or camera has a depth of field scale on it.
Agreed. I was going to leave a similar comment until I saw yours. Something along the lines of “show me a consumer camera that can be critically sharp (or even “acceptably sharp,” whatever that means) from 3m to infinity in a single image and I’ll eat my hat!” You’re right; it’s not magic….at best it can be considered an optimized *compromise* for in-camera targeted focus/sharpness.
@@CapriciousBlackBox the concept of zone focusing and acceptable sharpness was developed over 100 years ago. What was acceptably sharp back then is just a barely recognizable blur today.
Thanks for your very informative video. I note that you have removed the parallel mat guide from your Logan 350 mat cutter. Didn't you find that helpful when cutting mat windows?
Hi again Stephen , when you say should have shot at 800 iso instead of box speed ! Is there an option on this camera to dial in box speed ? I didn’t think there was ? I’m still teaching myself pretty much everything self taught ! Cheers Tommy.
Wait, how do you get a polarizer setup correctly on a rangefinder? I'm used to just using my viewfinder on SLRs/Mirrorless to tell when I'm setup correctly and just pointing the camera 90 degrees from the sun. Do you just take the filter off and just look through the filter with your eye to see if you're dialed in?
Some very poetic images and I think solid proof a good digital camera can rival film. Not knocking film I’m an Analogue guy but Digital does have many advantages - perhaps the greatest is control and productivity! Keep up the good work - a nice change from “glamour postcard images”!
Hi Stephen, Thank you for taking the time to compare these films side by side with shots of exactly the same subjects. I guess that's one of the advantages of the 503CW with interchangeable backs. It shows how Tri-X has higher contrast and is more punchy than HP5 Plus. However, for some subjects, HP5 could be the winner as it has a little lower contrast. It just depends on what you're shooting and what look you want to achieve.
modern digital Hasselblad backs CFV50c, CFV50CII, CFV 100C don't need any sync cable between body and back, they sync with the internal legacy film back mechanical sync rod.
I like the way you "built" the composition by looking at the different elements in the scene and describing how one leads to the next as you pan the camera. That first shot was beautiful. Ever tried a tilt-shift? I use a 24mm Samyang/Rokinon, creating the pano using the shift function. It has the additional benefit of the tilt for dealing with depth of field. The Samyang/Rokinon is essentially a Canon clone but with manual aperture control, meaning you only need a dumb adapter. Its image circle easily covers the MF sensor with plenty of room for shifting.
Really interesting. I've been doing a lot of work with this camera and I've been doing handheld panels and they actually work really well. You can do it handheld. Just make sure you get the horizon line in the top one third and it's pretty easy and I've actually been using this method for quite awhile you don't need to do it on a tripod sometimes is easier on a tripod but it can be done handheld for your videos once again always enjoy your channel. I'm curious are you gonna be updating to the new camera? The 100s ii
This is posted about a year later, but I ended up with this camera and I absolutely love it. I'm considering upgrading to the new 100s ii. But I really love this camera and it takes amazing photos with good glass on the front. You can even use some third-party glass with adapters but I would recommend getting a couple of the FujiFilm lenses. I now have three FujiFilm lenses and that's a big statement because they are so expensive, but it is my dream kit for landscape photography I find the 50 megapixels is a sweet spot for medium format. The low light performance of this camera is just absolutely blowing and the level of detail is incredible. Thank you for your video. I'm interested to see whether you are going to upgrade to the hundred at any stage.
@davidmurray5926 auto focus on the new 100s ii is snappy...I also do some other photography now and 50s ii is beautiful Files the auto focus simply didn't cut it....a year ago all I did was shoot landscapes A year later (with lots of hard work) I'm shooting events also
here’s the easiest way if you’re outdoors, do an incident reading, then go one/two stops over for details in the shadows applies for negative film only
haha, I've had this camera for half a year now and it never crossed my mind that I could just zoom in with touch to check pictures with the touchscreen... I am runninb to check it out right now :D
Ciao Stephen, solo una domanda: una volta calcolata l’esposizione giusta della scena, sovraesponi di 3 stop per il filtro ND. Poi sovraesponi ancora di 1 stop per il filtro GND. Ma quest’ultimo è di 3 stop. Quindi non dovresti sovraesporre anche questo di 3 stop? Grazie a presto
at 18:06 you forgot one important feature, the "winder", the W in the cameras' name, it has a winder specially made for it, to do fast sequences, also the crank can be replaced with a knob, knob + meter, and other accessories.
a couple of tips, Yes, the baffle does shut at lower speeds, ~1/4 sec. and slower, so watch it; another one is to WATCH it when adding the backs on, on the 205cc's and 2000 models, they have FOCAL plane shutters, IN the exact position the baffle is!!- can get scratched!!; Lastly, to remove a lens/ front accessory, you MUST cock the camera, the drive for the shutter needs to be aligned correctly to mount it; and the spring is in the lens, so IT goes off first!!, saves jamming the body.
Thanks a lot! Very clear explanations. However, even the Epson V850, can't get it perfectly sharp. Now considering a set up to scan negatives against a lightsource using a digital camera...
Who’d a thunk 24 minutes watching a guy shoot trees in a pasture? Fantastic! Thanks for this video on the 50Sii. I’m on 6 months with my 50Sii and wondering about whether or not I stay with it or move to 100S or 100Sii? For now I’ll stay put. Are you shooting in 1:1 A/R? I got the Medium to shoot in 65:24 and love images. Yes B&W is a great look for the 50Sii. Thanks for your work! Cheers!
Your content is usefull but you mucnh he words cant understand half what you say, the sound is not good enough or to low or to high, and I am an advance english speaker with lots of experience with different acents across the world, but I ad toquit as was exhausting to try to understand what you say, I suggest you add some captions for the rest of the world to follow you :) great content do...
Thanks for the video, yeah this meter is not for me, so much menu diving to do anything. Also the whole point of a meter is having it figure out the zone system for you, yet there's no way to dial in exposure compensation while seeing where your measurements land... lol
Found this a useful video having starting to shoot B/W after many years absence, so basically learning from scratch again. Thanks. Keep up the good work!
Just bought an Epson V600 which now comes with an updated Silverfast 9..... brilliant. I was taking digital photos of my dad's old black and white photos from early 1900's which were so-so even when running them through Photoshop Elements but when i scanned them with the Epson, wow what a difference straight out of the box! Of course now i can scan all the old negatives black and white as well as colour and slides which is fantastic........
A note on exposure. Most slide film have + and - 3 stops around middle grey. Velvia has a little less in shadows, maybe a half stop. Provia has up to 3.7 stops in shadows and 3.3 in highlights. Each one varies a bit, so putting the most important factor of the photo (the sky, the skin tone) in the range yoy want it, sometimes you'll have to blow the sky or black out the shadows to get the most important part of the scene right.
Absolutely stunning. I just got a Mamiya 645 100s waiting for film to arrive .. could you let me know roughly what settings you used for the Velvia 50 … that would be great 👍. Keep shooting your photos are beautiful. Cheers Tom.
