I am visiting my 92-year-old Dad in Northeast Montana, and we just found out this afternoon that the tailgate on his 2000 Silverado 2500 would not open. Sooo, time to take a look at youtube for advice, and found this video. I removed the bottom bolt & used the screwdriver/rag trick to pop off the cover. It had two plastic hooks at the top, and 2 fingers at the bottom. 24-year-old plastic & 46 degree temps do not make for flexible plastic. Broke both the hooks at the top, but we could see the problem; the clip holding the driver's side release arm had broken. Off to our local NAPA store to get replacement parts. Handed the person at the counter the broken clip, and they fired up the computer to check part numbers. I followed them back to the pegboard with parts on it, and they handed me the entire latch handle assembly plus two clips. For $30! The latch assembly worked just fine, so all we needed were the clips. Back to the computer for another search, and the counter person found a box of generic clips that would work for door locks & such. Total cost? $11.28 for the "Tailgate Handle Bezel" & $6.58 for the "Door Linkage Clips". Given the age of the plastic I wanted to replace the other clip as well, but it was still surprisingly strong. But it did break when I tried to remove it from the latch. Time for the replacement clips. Driver's side black, and passenger side white. NOTE!!!! Stuff a rag or two in the opening, in case you have cold fingers & fumble the clip inside the tailgate; that will mean another trip to the parts store. Popped the plastic clip into the hole on the latch with no problem. The release arm went into the hole without any problem. But the clip did not want to flip up onto the release arm. I squeezed a little harder, and it broke. Lovely. I examined the remaining clip, and it was a slightly different shape than the original. Ahhh, these were not specific release arm clips, but "generic" clips, made to fit a bunch of different applications. The generic clips had an odd lip that would catch on the arm, making it difficult to pop it on. They needed to be spread apart to get them started. I could not see that on the black clip, because it blended in with the release arm. It was also more challenging to put everything together with the handle latch attached to the tailgate, so I removed the other two bolts, which gave me much more play in the release arms & the latch to get everything to fit together. I used a bowl of hot water to warm up the plastic, and I snapped the white clip on by using the screwdriver the spread the lips of the clip. I was lucky that there was another generic clip in the box, because I could use it as a replacement for the black one I broke. I soaked it in hot water, and it needed a little coaxing to get the clip over the release arm. Put the latch back in with all three bolts, and it worked like it was supposed to! Yay me! Then I soaked the "Tailgate Handle Bezel" in hot water, and snapped it back into place. Key Takeaways from my experience: * Take out the other two bolts holding the latch once you have new clips ready to install; it made it much easier for me. * Stuff in a rag or two to keep the clips from falling into the tailgate. * Warm up the clips and the bezel in hot water. Cold plastic in brittle plastic!
Thank you...Thank you...Thank you for the video. You have helped me repair my 2000 Chevy Silverado Latch. I had the same exact issue with it. Once again, Thanks.
Very well explained video. I have a Husqvarna lgt2554 that I bought new 11 year's ago. I keep it well maintained and have not had any trouble. I recently replaced the belt for the first time, and it was more of a precautionary move. I've never had a flat tire. I service it every year and sharpen the three blade's. thanks, John
Just a note... great video except for one small point. As an aircraft mechanic... never - never ever tighten a bolt or nut in an aluminum block while the block is hot... it is the number one cause of stripped threads in the block. great video...!
This video is almost 8 years old and still helpful -- no idea how to attack this problem on a C3500, was going in from the back (disaster!). Saved a ton of time, misery and money. THANKS.
I rather like using rolled or wadded duct tape as tinder. Usually I take a rather small tight roll and stick it taco style inside a cotton pad or ball rolled around the tape. Takes a spark quickly from one of the one-hand wheel sparker tools. Way easier than trying to start shredded duct tape. Many thanks.
Wouldn't it be nice if they put all drains on the same side as the oil filter!!?! I will check to see if I can re-locate mine. I'm sure I can as they have about 5 areas you can drain oil from LOL....
Very well made and informative video. I'm used to working on my Scotts (John Deere) but I have to go out and work on my Mom's Husqvarna. It's great to see exactly what I have in store for me. I've got all my tools and parts together (except the oil drain tube) and I can make Mom happy. Thank you!
Excellent, I grinded off the rusty bottom of my tail gate, just need to fix the latch and mod out the bottom with fiberglass or some kind of water resistant panels.. I almost wanna bumper delete but got a new generic bumper and repainted it properly. Thanks for this vid.
Thanks for making this video. It is very helpful for anyone replacing their tailgate latch rod clips. I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD and my tailgate latch has been broken for years. I purchased the repair kit you referenced at AutoZone for $3.99. I also purchased a new bezel just in case the old one broke. In order to make room to replace the rod clips I had to remove the bezel because there wasn't enough to work and the bezel clips did break. Since I already had everything apart I replaced both rod clips to avoid having to do it again. You must purchase a new bezel and replace the old one or you won't have enough room to work. When installing the new bezel make sure to install it first before replacing all the latch bolts or you will have to take it apart and redo it again like I did.
There is some confusion about the motor flush. I don't use motor flush! It's an EMPTY bottle that's tall enough to make a good catch bottle. The oil used is Pro-Select 10W30. Also, lube the oil filter gasket. I forgot to do that.
Why no anti seize on the spark plug??? Also....IF you put a little clean oil on your oil filter gasket they tighten much easier and you do NOT tear the rubber gasket !!! Just a FYI !!!!
Modern plugs are coated and don't technically need it. I do apply it to vehicle spark plugs, but small engine plugs are never in long enough to need it.
