Welcome. I’m Peter Millard and I’m here to help you make the most of your time in the workshop. Follow along and get real, no-nonsense, honest advise from someone who’s been exactly where you are - Subscribe now and join the 10-minute workshop team - I’m here to help folks just like you.
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Great video I have the drill/driver combo and it is great recently purchased their palm router which uses the same battery so purchased the bare unit hot to say it is great as a trim router. Just got the jig saw as I needed a portable cordless saw to cut down wood when I am foraging for scrap wood got to say cuts through 2 inch timber brilliantly ( yes I work in inches as our wood is still technically imperial measure a full sheet of plywood and it’s 8x4 😂) The circular saw would be great for cutting thin sheets of plywood as I tend to make small pieces.
It is a good idea cutting by using the jigsaw a few milimeters fron the scribe line and with a fee degrees of inclination, this will help you to fit the infill as close as posibles to the wall bay using the rasp.
With increasing costs of materials and the crazy delivery charges to here in Cornwall, you have given good options here. Love the coloured MDF but so pricey. I wonder if there is a finish that could be applied to give that effect?
I’m usually trying to remove veneered doors deep enough to remove all the original stain and not just the finish. I keep telling my contractor that I can’t guarantee I won’t go through the veneer. They now want me to refinish a whole set of cabinets that are all veneer and edge banded and I’m telling them I can’t do it. Paint them or replace them. I suppose I could faux stain them. Just tell me if I’m wrong In not wanting to sand all the stain off and refinish them. Maybe I could try but it’s not just doors it’s inside boxes with inside corners and right angles to get close to the edges. I hate thinking about it and I love to refinish wood. If it was all solid wood it would still be challenging. Veneer, I don’t think I’ll try. Thanks
On the subject of the sloppy fit of the fences, I would think this is a deliberate decision so that you get the best accuracy in cutting and it's safer. If the rip fence was a snug fit, you might think you'd locked it and then have it move. Not good! When you have the rigidity and acuracy of the sliding table would you really want to use even a decently fitting sliding fence which is never going to be as good? I concede that it would give you more ripping length so it's swings and roundabouts I guess. Great video, thanks.
Peter, The guides that you design are clever and affordable. I've watched your video on laying out an MFT top, but I wonder if you've ever considered creating a guide that could be used for MFT layout. The Parf guide is a really expensive one-time tool.
Peter. You could glue and pin a piece of would at either end of the hing on the underside. So that you could route the hing flush on the top side. All you would need to do is bore the holes through the would underneath. A small rebate in the apron of the MFT would then accommodate the modified MFT top… hope that makes sense…
It’s a Maestri ME606 nailer/stapler - links in the video description as always. Mains powered (240v) nailers and staplers tend to be smaller as the voltage gives them more ‘oomph’ 👍
Nice little add-on, sometimes you just can't be bothered to set up a router for these little jobs. Seems like something you (or someone else) could 3d print and push a bush into for very little effort and cost to offer as a nice little add-on if people want at checkout. I imagine material costs would be about the same if not less as a router bush.
Thanks, Peter Excellent comparison. I am setting up my home workshop and am new to the MFT systems. Is there a preference for MDF over Ply? If using a non-treated board, will post sealing make the holes too tight?
Thanks! Ply isn't generally necessary - MDF was the what OEM Festool tops were made from and remains the general standard, upgraded to MRMDF; I may give ply a try for the next one though! 🤷♂️ 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I am guessing you are still able to get birch ply up there? Very difficult to get any decent ply or MDF down here in SW Cornwall. Most will not deliver
Another ingenious and accessible solution Perter, I'm sure that will help a lot of people out ! There's obviously something in the name Peter, yourself and Mr Parfitt have created numerous guides and jigs and shared your clever ideas for all woodworkers to use, so thanks to you both !
I can imagine this will prove very useful to many makers and it's reasonably priced too, great work Peter you've really crammed in a lot of practical functionality, I'll be interested to hear if you or anyone else comes up with any additional uses that could be incorporated over time !
Absolutely brilliant jig. Ordered from UK on Friday delivered Monday in the US on Monday. First used Monday afternoon to make drawer fronts! Thanks for a great addition to my workshop.
Peter im looking for a new drill dont know if brushless is the way to go something mid budget can you recommend a brand/model Thank you Mark it was a great show
Thanks Mark; I've only really used Festool drills and drivers for the last few years so I'm not best placed to advise on specific brands or models, though I've used all kinds form a no-brand Screwfix special to DeWalt, Panasonic and blue Bosch before settling on Festool; if it's to be your main drill then brushless is definitely worth having, but if it's only for occasional use then I wouldn't be put off by a brushed motor, especially when price is factored in. Assuming it's cordless then if you have any other cordless tools, I'd look at whatever's offered by that manufacturer first, just to keep the battery platform consistent. And if you're not on a specific platform, then factor that in to your decision-making as well as it might be worth getting a 'lesser' drill/driver from a manufacturer who has a wider range of cordless tools available - that's how I ended up with Bosch 10.8v instead of Makita. Hope that helps! P
I'm now a subscriber. What a show. There's no fat left on in editing and yet the information is easily absorbed. Everything is of the highest level, framing, lighting, sound. It's got it all.
Hello.. We bought a crib for our little baby from Patiko. We are worried of the smell that came from it once unpacked and assembled. The smell was stronger the first day. It is getting less stronger. Still, we are greatly worried as we don't have a meter to test for the level of toxins. Is it safe to keep it? Would you please give us advice, We greatly appreciate that.
Hi there. I'm not an expert in MDF toxicity - this video was in response to a rather silly newspaper article - but if the crib you purchased is painted, then the off-gassing is almost certainly due to the paint. I'm not familiar with Patiko - it's not a company we have here in Britain - but a google search came up with a Turkish manufacturer, and if that's the one then they claim on their website to be a caring, thoughtful company, so I'd address the question to them. If it is off-gassing from eg paint or a lacquer finish, then it will reduce over time, but how long that takes and wether or not it's harmful to a newborn is a question for the manufacturer. Hope that helps. P
Bit late to the party but i’ve just got this jig. One thing i miss from the earlier version is the lack of ability to reference slots using the depth guide. To accommodate a 30mm guide bush, this slot is now too wide to fit loose tenons. Might be handy if there was some sort of insert to make this feature work?
Hi there. Yes, it was a consequence of moving to the 30mm guide bush; I did consider a stepped slot - wide enough at the top for a guide bush, but stepped to fit the domino, but the lack of consistency in guide bush depths meant that it added more complexity to cut the jig than I felt was warranted, and after a bit of research it turned out that almost nobody I asked used that feature; you are actually the first person to mention it after a year of the LTJ30 being on sale, which kind of proves the point! As for an insert, it's a 19mm domino in a 30mm slot; if you're not comfortable eyeballing that - bearing in mind that the slot you're cutting is +/- a couple of mm wider than the Domino you're using - then a 5x30 Domino on end acts as a pretty good packer, and if it's something you do a lot then you could make up a simple jig from two Dominos and a crosspiece glued onto the ends. Given the overall lack of enthusiasm for that particular feature though, it's not something I'll be looking at supplying with the jig. Hope that makes sense. Best, Peter
As a long time subscriber and huge fan of your work, I just wanted to say a huge thank you for this! I’m part way through building it… I’ve tweeked the sizes as I’ve already got a big bag of 6mm loose tenons, and I’ve found a great manufacturer of router bits and other tools called RENNIE TOOLS near Manchester. Most suppliers only sell 6.3mm diameter cutters - which would be too sloppy - but they do several spiral up cut models at exactly 6mm. Could be a useful contact for you, as I know you ship router bits with your flat pack loose tenon kits 😊
Hi Peter, have you ripped much solid timber with yours? I didn’t have high expectations for being able to do this, but when I got a rip blade unfortunately it was way worse than i expected, since I found the thin blade flexes uncontrollably (almost felt like a harmonic / resonance issue - I was going pretty gentle with it). Was never sure if this was a ‘just me’ issue with the particular blade I had - but I’ve moved to ripping on a small bandsaw, which is actually preferable anyway.
Hello Peter, I just saw your video. Since it has been out for a while, you've surely found a solution for the profiles that accept Festool-type clamps, but just in case, I'm giving you my solution anyway. On the Systeal website, they sell Series 30 B type profiles that accept these clamps directly without any modification. As for me, I only have Veiko brand clamps bought from Banggood, and they fit very well on them. Maybe this information will be useful to you. Thank you for your videos, which are very pleasant to watch. Thierry
Love your vids Peter! In Australia we only have access to 18 or 25mm MR MDF. If making large 2000 x 450mm cabinet doors, which thickness would you recommend using?
25mm at that height. I had problems with 18mm bowing at 1900, they all went away when I switched to 22mm. With 25mm I’d be tempted to use a 9mm panel. 👍
