Thank you! Just go for Norwegian, as you’ll get the best warranty and potential help from local resellers 👍. You can ofc. Choose to buy via bambulab, (using my affiliate link 🤪) but then you may have do most support directlywith BL.

Just don’t buy a china locked machine!

I already bought from a Norwegian reseller - the machine is waiting at the local post office :-) Looks like I'll be registering my account as "Norwegian" - thanks!! :-)

@skjalglandsem7440 wooho! Happy for you, this will be a gamechanger for you :)

I managed to find some supports. But unfortunately, for micro-things it does not display the elements correctly in the demo. I want to print a micro fork 2 cm long and 3 mm wide, yes, it's quite ambitious, but I'll try.

Heya! This is so long ago I haven't really kept up with the pace of this machine, the manufacturere and what they may have done to open up the slicer. Potentially, they may let you use regular Gcode, but then you would have to configure the machine in another slicer first.

@@3DPrintTechDesign That is, is there a possibility that they have opened the code and perhaps it will be possible to use this printer with other slicers? I tried to open Cura using the cord, but it didn't recognize it.

It depends on what files pano can read from the usb/sd card. So if a new firmware allows it to open other files, like gcode directly, you should be able to slice those files, but you still need to build the correct profile in cura. maybe theres someone who's already done it :)

@@3DPrintTechDesign I can open stl files in panobuild, but apart from panobuild I cannot, so far I have only tested with Cura, open other slicers and print directly from them.

@@mysafename1694 is there something you’re not happy with on the mole? Then we should try and fix that before just buying something new. But budget scanning sometimes only get you SO far.

Photogrammetry is a more flexible solution, but also more complex. It’s definitely always there as an option, but most users want the simplicity of point and shoot. But in a future where fewer and fewer use computers…

I don’t think that’s a good idea. It won’t hold the oil and apply it slowly, nor will it capture the dust the same way.

@@BrentLeVasseur thanks for the feedback. 6 years later I try to be better 🤘🤷‍♂️

You can always practice it during the stream!

It shouldn't be very dangerous no. The fan might just be noisy, but probably won't do any more harm than that. If it continues, you might wanna swap it out.

@@3DPrintTechDesign Ok thanks :) by the way i have a large fan next to my 3d printer incase of an emergency (i have trauma).

@TheHeadlessMario haha, better be safe than sorry!

Any help is much appreciated, Thank you :)

I love it already! The dang sigma lens isn’t compatible via EF/RF adapter, so it’s wobbly. It I traded it for the canon RF24-105mm, so we should be good to go 🤘

For PLA, it’s often good to print with top open and even front door open. But it shouldn’t be a factor on very short prints unless you preheated. Is this a pre-sliced model? Otherwise it might just be profiles/slocer settings that caused it to get be too hot

Strange it damaged top lid printing pla? What happens with abs, asa, nylon then?

No absolutely not. As long as you use PLA for example, you can use really whatever brand. If you use additives like "carbon fiber" or "glow-in-the-dark" it will wear much faster, but you don't have to worry about regular PLA :).

Thanks for the information. ill definitely be saving that $40 with the off brand. any suggestions for an off-brand that's cheap and trustworthy? I also what to get the extruder upgrade that works with the "tough" version of pla makerbot offers if you have any cheaper alternatives for that.

@@torigilley4099 for now, no. But I sometimes use adhesives, depending on material. :)

Leftovers from experiments with materials that didn’t stick well on PEI. 😘

Nope, the X1-series are the same on those components =).

@@3DPrintTechDesign Thanks for the response! So if I buy an X1 Carbon and install a heater to bring the chamber up to 70 degrees, would I get the performance of an X1E? It only makes sense for the protected connection at this point.

@@Fancy3D Oh, I think there are more components, cooling and sensors that help with controling the tempeature and secure the longevity of the components inside the machine, so it's not as simple as just heating an regular X1. If you wanna tinker, and add heating etc... The X1 could be the one for you. Just don't expect the same reliability as the X1E with it's tuned profiles for some materials. Never the less, Pre-heating the chamber does a lot for printing complex materials, no matter the printer :).

The hotends between x1c and x1e are significantly different.

I think you should see my video on the moose 3D scanner, it’s cheaper and basically performs the same. Or, you can wait for the Raptor that I’ve written about (but not yet have a video on) from creality. It’s expensive, but performs 5x its price or something.

@@3DPrintTechDesign Yes I will be trying the Raptor. If it performs that well it is a bargain!

@martiansunrise7168 here’s my thoughts so far; www.antonmansson.com/3d-printing-blog/creality-raptor-3d-scanner-the-only-prosumer-3d-scanner

Hi! I think you would be able to scan a hoof quite well actually. Specially if you only need to underside and not much up on the sides.

Flashprint can be a bit tricky yes. But you are able to run Orca as well if that suits you better :)

That is the standard camera/tripod diameter of "1/4-20 UNC" =)

Yeah, it's more expensive than a standard nozzle, but it also provides better extrusion reliability thanks to the design. And the change process is much easier than an old nozzle design for example, where you heat up, use a wrench and accidently break your wires etc. But yeah, it's a higher running cost for reliability and ease of operation.

Awesome to hear! I hope more Get to explore the 5M!

What about dimensional accuracy correction not available until you jail brake it? The nylon needs 280c and nozzle cant heat more, i read it struggles to print it.

You can hear it in this video. The first value it tries for the y axis resonates through the table and you hear a loud bassy hum, the second value it tries removes the hum

@@evancoberley2650 I'm ngl I don't hear the difference. Even while mine did the calibration it sounded absolutely the same to me.

@@Mephora if you set it on a stable surface like concrete there won't be much noise to begin with

@@evancoberley2650 it's definitely noisy. It's on a hollow cabinet after all. So I wouldn't call that quiet depending on the frequencies. But as far as I know it's also only supposed to Actively cancel the noise of the motors not the resonance of the surroundings

@@Mephora it listens to how the frequencies of the motors affect the surroundings and reverberate through the table, because those reverberations go back into the printer and require input shaping to dampen

I wouldnt say that! Its actually quite some scanner for the money. But it’s not a high-end scanner and you don’t get perfect results in real life scanning. Still incredible cheap for what many users need; reference surfaces, and not perfect copies.

Bra ögonmått ;). Nä men som jag säger så litar jag inte 100% på det skjutmåttet... Jag har inte kört någon budget-scanner via mobil ännu. Tycker det verkar otroligt osmidigt och bara problem med Apple telefon. För många skanners behöver du absolut ett nvidia-kort och en PC, det är svårt att komma runt så fort du ska behandla datan. Då har jag åtminstone inte sett något som inte kräver PC. Moose lite är billig och superbra sätt att komma in i 3D-skanning. Den kommer vara svår på större och vissa ytor med lite detaljer på, men då får man vara kreativ och hitta sätt att låta skannern tracka. Noggrannheten gör den ändå OK för mycket hemma-pill för den som skal bygga och meka och behöver information in i ett CAD system. För skruvhål så hade jag skruvat i skruvar/3D-print jiggar för att få saker som sticker ut (och därmed enklare att tracka/mäta i efterhand). Men ja, den är så pass billig att jag köpt en om jag inte redan haft andra skanners :). Den är däremot inte fantastisk på att ge dig en ren, färdig-städad mesh. Men för mått, referensytor och det du beskriver så gör det egentligen ingenting. Jag tror många kommer önska sig något "större" med tiden, för att ta in större modeller. Men då kommer de troligtvis också behöva betala mer, eller bara få lägre upplösning på delarna, då är det fint att "ha kvar" sin Moose/Moose lite för de små projekten.

@@3DPrintTechDesign tack för ditt svar. Om jag inte läser fel så ska Moose fungera på mac också så det är ju bra. Det är inte så att du har en enklare modell som du kan dela. Hade varit intressant att få upp den i fusion och se hur det ser ut.

Thank you Marc! Hope you enjoy it and find 3D scanning helpful and interesting :) Remember it can be a bit frustrating in the beginning until you get the hold of tracking objects :D Good luck!

How’s it working out?

teah, any feddback whould be great