The inner door card is easier to reinstall with the inner weather stripping attached to it. This makes it easier to get into the groove of the window and to properly seat the lock button into the hole. While I agree that the entire window may not NEED to come out, it seems like this may be good idea in order to clean the channels properly where the sliding clips go as well as to regrease them. Great video man.
Bought this for my small back deck in the Eastern Sierra. ru-vid.comUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN We get A LOT of HEAVY snow so I was a bit skeptical but it was worth it! After the first storm of the year this has exceeded expectations! It throws snow very well, even 10-12” + that said the more it piles up the harder it is to maneuver the machine. It is exceptionally light weight and overall exactly what I was looking for. If you have a large amount of snow and a lot of area to clear, you may consider something with a drive engine to help maneuverability, but for decks, second stories, roofs etc, you can’t beat the light weight to great snow throwing ratio. Side note, the chute rotator is a bit flimsy and it initially didn’t seem to work, after a few uses it seems to have loosened up.
This why I use Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 magazines. After having many problems and very difficult loading the CMMG magazines I learned that the S&W 22 mags fit very nicely into Mil Spec AR lowers without needing an adapter. They are extremely easy to load and feed my .556 upper with CMMG Adapter and my PSA 22 LR dedicated upper flawlessly. The even feed my full auto M16 lower using a Ciener or CMMG Auto Trip attachment. S&W 22 mags are absolutely the best for AR style 22 LR. They come in 10 & 25 round capacity. Better-Mag makes an adapter for these S&W mags that gives reliable Last Round Bolt Hold Open and operation of the “Ping Pong Paddle”. This is a nice video to make a problem mag a little better. The S&W mags are perfect and reliable right out of the box. NOTE: I have no affiliation whatsoever with S&W. I only report on my experience having tried every 22 AR option there is.
THANKS FOR SHARING. I HAVE TO DO THIS SOON. These videos always shows me what a bad human kind i am. Always one bolt will drop, disappear in a ditch and I'll start swearing for dear life. I just can't help it. But I'll try next time to behave like a gentleman. (however I never managed, i'm an idiot)
Thank you so much for this video series!! 🙏🏼 These things almost always to intimidate and overwhelm me. Watching your video made it possible for me to tackle this problem myself!
Wonderful two videos. I’m about to do this on my 2002 Z3 Coupe. I’ve watched your videos several times. Bought parts. I think I’m ready now. Thanks to you.
Thanks Mr. Gun Nuubs for posting this. Just went through this repair on my '09 Craftsman, saved me some time. Same deal, it failed just after clearing out another Wisconsin storm. Apparently the newer models have a grease zerk on the side of the housing, which had me wondering if they had enough packed in there to begin with, so I rigged up a grease fitting on a mighty-vac adapter and pumped more in through that top hole once the RTV dried. It may all be in vain though as this was pretty much the last straw and getting rid of it. No more MTD's for me....
I never owned an MTD machine but I see that they used much thinner metal than most other manufacturers. I have a Noma (made by Murray) that is heavy and difficult to handle but I don't want to worry about a housing or chassis cracking.
Same issue with 22" Craftsman - both auger blades would turn freely almost half way around while impeller was still, so I knew it was the auger gearbox. Now I see it can be fixed for $35 instead of $150.
Thank you for making this video @Gun Nuubs! Since I benefited from this video I thought I would share from my experience. First, the model that I repaired is the Craftsman 26 inch Snow Thrower Model No. 247.889701 which I purchased in December 2009, so the worm gear last through almost 10 years of Massachusetts winters. Now some thoughts and info: 1) The worm gear part number has changed over the years. The old part number was 717-04449 but the new part number is 917-04861. 2) The worm gear can be purchased directly from Sears (www.searspartsdirect.com/product/1xp1ybyiib-0071-247/id-917-04861, currently about $41) or from many other places, such as Amazon (smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZJ48Q32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, currently $17.89) 3) I highly recommend using gearbox grease with a high viscosity that is made for worm gear usage, as well as 0 degrees Fahrenheit temperatures, like Stens 770-123"00" Grease (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OKBHRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, currently $17.20 for 32 oz.). 4) To take off the old worm gear and get the new one on, save yourself some frustration and lightly sand the rust off of the axle, then use a piece of sturdy PVC (I used non-conductive PVC conduit) to place over the axle against the worm gear, then just tap down on the conduit to apply equal pressure. This also makes getting the new one on a breeze (I lightly coated the axle with the Stens grease, so it slid over the key fairly easily). I hope this helps someone out... good luck my fellow DIY'ers!
I love watching these videos because I see that I am not the only one who experiences these issues! I no longer think that God hates just me! I just need to take a deep breathe and carry on with all the bullshit that comes with these tasks!! Gotta love it!! Thank You!!
Bought a used sig 522 a couple years ago.First time I fired I couldn't shoot a 10 round magazine without a jam,put another 50 round through it with same problem!Round chambers but has be forced about a .25 inch to seat in barrel.Brought to a reputable gunsmith in CT,found a couple things wrong but still jams with any ammo I use and Sig wants nothing to do with it!
Remove airbag quickly and easily: DISCLAIMER I am not a pro, do the following at your own risk, I am not liable to be sued by you or anyone else if you follow these instructions :You can remove the airbag safely and easily. Here's how : disconnect battery negative terminal in trunk, make sure end cannot spring back and touch battery. Take key out of ignition and press brake pedal for 10 seconds (to remove and residual current in capacitors). Slide the spring steel piece that is pressing on the back of the yellow connector from car to door airbag, just slide this out of the way. Carefully pull the airbag connector away from unit and go and put the airbag somewhere high up and cool away from children and pets where it cannot be knocked off a ledge or be interfered with. Keep away from electrical sources. You can now reconnect battery, insert key and move window up and down BUT YOUR AIRBAG LIGHT WILL BE TRIGGERED AND you may need to go to BMW or a BMW Independent or a well equipped local garage to have the light put out. Do your work then reconnect in reverse sequence. I do not know for sure if the airbag light will be triggered and/or go out itself because mine was on anyway for other reasons. Owner of this channel : delete if you wish. Thank you. For more about me at Ramlite see google images 'Ramlite' since my channel was banished by RU-vid for showing unloaded guns on tabletops.
Thumbs down because you skip how to install the clips which is all I wanted to see. The actual work not an explanation then a fast forward to the finished project.
It's highly unlikely that you can see the actual clip snap into place, BMW windows are an absolute pain in the bottom and the E36 coupe windows would not be easily visible.
I carry my 9c in winter whenever I go into the Minneapolis Metro area. I carry 3 17 round full size mags also. One magazine in the pistol and 2 in the mag pouch.
Head’s up about using axle grease. DON’T! Spring for the low temp grease. Yes expensive, but saves burning out gears in cold temps. Put your gear grease out at 0 F and see what happens if you don’t believe me. Did this repair 3 times due to crappy design of shear pin to brass gear strength. I stock a spare brass gear like shear pins. Sad. I too used the permatex because the cast for the housing is so irregular. Thanks for doing the video otherwise. Those numnuts that don’t like it should say what’s wrong in the comments. Otherwise...shut up. If doing this repair indoors or near open flame, drain fuel from tank and carb bowl. Otherwise gas will tip out and BOOM! 💥
Craig Tomanelli you can buy the recommended manufacturers grease which hopefully is made for low temps and remains fluid. I bought the expensive “Ariens snowblower” grease that was green. A lot of people use a “OO” grease. Here’s a link. www.walmart.com/ip/Alco-9-oz-Super-Lube-00-Universal-Grease-for-Dual-Stage-Snow-Blowers/189594185?athcpid=189594185&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=RecentlyViewed&athieid=v1&athstid=CS006&athguid=8a5f4081-006-174cd82002d398&athancid=null&athena=true
Many thanks for this great video. You can actually have access to the pivot clips (after having removed the window) through the lower part of the window, below the airbag. You can see that on one of the videos. You also do not need to remove the outer strip and you do not need to take off the airbag. All the rest is perfectly explained. If anyone wishes I can send a picture taken when I did the second door with the airbag and the outer strip still in place.
They told me they would get parts out but not sure if they are sending the same crappy clips or the upgrade kit? They said it would be three to four weeks so yea, you suck Sig Sauer and as soon as I get the parts gong to sell the 522 and it will be the last Sig I buy.
I have a similar craftsman blower, with a different problem, but I need to remove the auger. I have it taken apart and got the pulley off no problem, but the shaft will not come through. Anybody else have this problem? It looked lik e it came off so easy in the video, won't budge off mine though
Thanks for this. I just scooped up a logging cable under the snow that broke my housing assembly. I'm hoping I can just pull the axle out without separating the front end from the back.
So I purchased the parts along with the door handle gasket kits..and after watching this VID I ran it over to a LITTLE local body shop... they disassembled and reassembled had it back by noon working great for $150.00 BOTH DOORS!! So no need for ridiculous shop rates (keep in mind pricing is seasonal) no rain or ice not to many accidents shops not busy..right? slow shop is cheaper price to keep guys busy..Let them know you're not in a hurry and willing to wait till they get slow..right?