I’ve got the same machine and I hate to bother you but I need some help if possible. It was running great all day I shut her down that evening and she hasn’t started since. I cleaned injectors, I’ve swapped the fuel shutoff valve , and well checked fluids and everything that I know. I don’t know where or information is hard to come by (for me at least maybe I have not check ed the right place). Do you have any suggestions?
Auto mechanics hate those things with a passion. Easy to get hurt on them while working on a vehicle. I agree. Take them off unless actively towing. Plenty of room behind the seat or in the trunk/truck bed for that thing.
I'm about to build a couple. I'm gonna use some pea gravel but mostly corrugated drainage pipe in reservoir. T fitting out the bottom port hole, one side a valve for draining, the other side the stand pipe cut to desired height of water level. I could always unioum and extend the pipe if I ever wanted to flood like you do. Thanks for video
So why do you flood your wicking beds? I’m working on my second ibc tote wicking bed (only because locally a couple are selling food grade repurposed, prior it’s been hard to find them) and I freaked one time I flooded mine but I’m brand new to this. These wicking beds work wonders though I’m absolutely thrilled to have em
Flooding the wicking bed saturates the soil and drives out and unwanted critters such as ants that may have gotten in the bed, if you flood it long enough in the spring just after the last frost it helps inhibit the growth of weeds and similar for the autumn. Flooding it turns it into a similar ecosystem to that of a shallow pond so you don't have to put a cover on it that can blow off. Also if you add bio char to the soil this will fully saturate the bio char with water.
Major plus is the fact it keeps the wood from flying on the ground. A big part of splitting your own kindling is bending over and picking up 15 pieces every 2 minutes. Had no idea this existed, appreciate the info. Happy burning
That is an EPA certified wood stove. The only tool that I would add to your set up is a 7 in garden rake(christmas tree store). With the way the air wash works, similar to mine, I would push the ash and coals to the back of the stove, rake the coals forward, remove the ash in the back, then add the wood behind the coals. Close the door, fully open the air supply and those morning coals would relight the wood for the next burn cycle. Given the clearness of the glass, I would bet that you are not producing much creosote in the chimney. Maybe a little dust to clean out. Looks great...
No major issues so far. There are some that pop up with the wrapping system if using string that I will put a video up about when I do the full yearly maintenance. I have not used the netting yet but may try that next year. The one key thing I have found is have a slightly bigger (more HP) tractor than needed. I currently am pulling it with a 65 HP tractor and it works well. I absolutely love it. It is saving me so much time from doing the small square bales by hand.
The bio char is for the garden but it is first used in the chicken and duck coop to add grit to their intake which is needed for chickens which have a gizzard. Also the bio char absorbs the ammonia smell in the coop when mixed with the sawdust. At the barn it is mixed in with the compost and manure. After letting it charge and decompose for a year it is mixed in with the garden and produces a very rich dark compost. Also is excellent for wicking beds due to its water retention, a pound of dry bio char can hold up to 8 pounds of water. How is it a waste?
@@Circle_J_FarmI didn't realize you had the chicks, if you were only doing it for the garden it would be, though original capture of the heat used to "cook" the char would be good. Wonder if this would turn well with a sand battery? Sand battery water heater? What's your climate like? Maybe you could tie in coop warming with a scheduled burn time? Sorry, it is very interesting, I have become jaded from the very wasteful shorts I see. The point is to use and capture as much as efficiently as possible, not just make bio char for it's own sake
I understand completely. With a little bit of semi flexible pipe a coil of copper pipe could easily go around the top barrel and provide heat to any number of systems, a sand battery, an off grid house hot water, a hot tub, if designed in to it it this could be put inside a green house for extending the seasons as well. I am not sure what the final encompassing build will look like. I need to get the system working as well as it can be then i can get heat measures and a time lapse of how hot for how long and then implement it as best as possible. I am defiantly open to suggestions and ideas.
@@Circle_J_Farm man, I so want to sit here and jam on this stuff with you. So many things I want to talk about. Copper would be good, I did see a video, by nighthawk I believe, where he captured the wood gases for future use.
@@Circle_J_Farm the way you screw is kind of wrong and there are a lot of people who watch those videos and try to replicate them The ideal would be to teach something more careful brother
It came off just fine. Any fasteners exposed to the weather or heat should have anti-seeze alloyed to the threads. It's too bad the makers of machinery can't do that at the building of things.
I have the same saw. How's the side play on the blade of yours? Mine after about 5 years of use has developed a ton of slop in the shaft. Kinda curious of what you are working on too.
The saw works very well, there is some slop in the shaft. I tend to put some side pressure on the handle when making a cut to reduce the slop, not enough to alter the cut but enough to stop it from shaking.
By break in the rain i mean a long enough window to properly cut dry and bale. After the rain that we have gotten i waited for a day of sun before mowing and then the usual 3 days of drying. Normally we are finishing haying right now but this is the first hay we have gotten in all year. Also with this style mower it picks up the hay if it is laying down for a proper even cut, so the little bit that is down gets picked up all the same.