Fantastic work Tony. I've just printed a more basic one, but really like the bearing method that you are using. Can I ask if the file is available for use. If not, then no worries at all. Many thanks Dan
Thank you for your informative videos. I have a 4040-pro max arriving any day now. I was considering the 4th axis but didn't pull the trigger on that yet. I was wondering if it would be possible to turn the whole thing 90 degrees so it runs parallel with the Y axis instead. That would allow mounting the headstock out of harms way in the back of the machine and also allow to work on longer pieces. Is there any support for that in the setup? I also wonder what software is required to get full functionality for the 4th axis - Fusion seems to require a paid upgrade. Is there any free - or cheap - software around that would work?
Hi thanks for your comment and question, you can turn the 4th axis 90deg so in the cad software you would change the way you rap the x or y axis when designing your work. I use Vectrics aspire but its expensive, you should be able to do the same in other free cad software programs. The 4th axis is a little limited in the size of project you can secure in its chuck and between the tailstock. One of the reasons why I have shown in my video about increasing the size you can work with on the 4th axis.
i used lot 21mm plywood birch, and old spindle i cut max 2mm pass, but new need only 4 pass 5mm can cut piece out off plywood. max can cut 9mm pass but hard to stepper motors, better use only 5mm not hard to machine. i has build my cnc all parts whit plywood 21mm and have strong can cut aluminium good, but need buy aluminium next then can build better machine, all cnc has cost me less than 1000$ and have better than any onefinity or genmitsu cnc who cost 4000-6000$ waste only lot money buy onefinity etch cnc. because DIY can build lot better strongest biggest cnc own hand in garage. linuxcnc and biggest motors.
normal woodworker router have worst option buy to cnc machine, noise too lot, bearings not has plan use whit cnc, not long time can use go broken. and lot expensive than good REAL spindle, minimum 800W best is 2,2KW, have cheap buy today. about 130-200$ only.
i has first my DIY cnc 800W ER16 spindle, can working but not good no power lot, max can milling plywood about 1mm pass only, but i updated now my cnc new 2,2KW spindle and have lot lot better use, no anymore problems whit torqye and power newer again, best option upgrade all cnc better new spindle, and not have expensive update, old 800W air cooled spindle cost about 100$ new 2,2KW cost me 130$ dont waste money 1,5KW spindle because same money can buy biggest better 2,2KW spindle, and VFD not have expensive cost me 2,2KW VFD normal about 60-80$ not lot need spend money. but all work have then lot lot better doing.
Hi Thanks for the comment, I purchased mine second hand from facebook market place and there are lots on for sale. For my machine now its the go to spindle, but you must have the 3d printed part that I used. It wont be every bodies choice but for what I paid its fantastic but you need to purchase the set of extra collets.
I agree the original spindle on the 4040Pro is too weak. I use a 710W Katsu router (£44) in a Sainsmart collar (£24). It takes 1/4 shafted bits and runs at 6 speeds 13,000 to 33,000. It weights 1,341grams. Personally I think this is a great cheap upgrade. What does the Rotozip weigh? Great entertaining videos, thanks Tony.
Hi Tony, I’ve not the fourth axis yet but would love to have access to the STL files for increasing the diameter of turnings. Your idea of separating the headstock and tail stock on the Y axis is a great idea too and I’d like to print out the mounts you made ready for when I take the plunge. Looking forward to further ideas from you.
Hi thanks for your comment I have uploaded all the stl files for the appropriate riser blocks. Just remember to check all clearances before moving the machine. I have uploaded them on makerworld search for Sainsmart 4040 pro 4th Axis Riser blocks
@@Tonys.Top.Tips.Workshop Many thanks. Your helpful upgrade tips are very much appreciated as are the STL files you freely share. They save a lot of time and thinking that would be necessary to design and produce them myself. I’ll download the files later tonight. 😀😀
Hi Tony, Nice idea and a great video. I just installed the new ZX axis for the 4040pro and it is a major improvement. The new piece is very ridged a very useful upgrade.
@@Tonys.Top.Tips.Workshop I paid $279.00 free shipping. The Z axis has linear guides and bearings and the X is super beefed up. It's amazing how stiff the machine is with the upgraded ZX axis. You'll want this for your 4040.
@@jacobnowatzke4371 thanks for your comment it cured mine immediately but sometimes it might be something else but what it cost it's the first thing you change
Wow. This is rather embarrassing, and I must say, I wasn’t expecting it at all. Now, I don’t want my comment to come off as rude, but it’s clear that you’re using a CNC machine in a manner that’s almost entirely counterproductive to the benefits it offers. The methods you’re advocating effectively nullify all the advantages that computer-controlled machining brings. It’s as if you’ve completely missed the true potential of this technology and are trying to use it like traditional handheld power tools. Let’s keep this constructive, though. It’s essential to revisit the fundamentals of CNC machining. First and foremost, anything that’s computer-controlled represents the final nail in the coffin of using templates. There’s simply no need for templates when you have a CNC machine, and even less so should a CNC be used to create them! And, of course, it’s nonsensical to guide a movement by hand when you have the precision of digital control at your disposal. The reasons for this are incredibly straightforward and logical: CNC machines have two superpowers-precision and repeatability. Precision, because the resolution of digital guidance is infinitely finer and more consistent than anything the human hand can achieve. Repeatability, because the same code, whether used 200 times or 200 years later, will yield the same result, something human hands simply cannot replicate with such reliability. Here, and I say this not as a slight or with any notion of “ageism” (we’re likely of the same generation), it’s crucial to completely rethink your approach to your workshop, your workflow, and your machining processes, keeping these two superpowers in mind. Spending time crafting a template when a machine is more precise and productive without it is a waste. The machine offers a rapid, safe, and accurate guidance and transmission-moving a piece by hand under a fixed spindle is nonsensical, not to mention potentially risky for both the workpiece and your fingers. There are methods to mass-produce and/or secure pieces without templates that offer maximum productivity, and I encourage you to explore these. Once you truly understand the possibilities that these machines open up, it becomes clear that they can (and will, as soon as we let go of our habits from traditional tools) replace most of the equipment in a workshop from the previous century, including both machines and handheld power tools. But to do this, one must embrace the central role of the machine, fully exploit its capabilities, and completely rethink the manufacturing processes, from design to the finished piece. In short, the digital workflow is: design (CAD), machining (CAM)-which can include some finishing processes like deburring, sanding, and polishing. Finally, finishing (assembly, coating) remains manual for now, though even these steps can be significantly reduced using pre-finished materials and CNC-machined snap-fit joints that eliminate the need for glue, clamps, and drying time. In essence, this technology revolutionizes the entire workshop and manufacturing processes, but only if you fully grasp and embrace the potential of these machines. Over 20 years ago, when the first amateur CNC machines came out, it was understandable that we only delegated a few tasks to digital machines-no one fully understood the possibilities, and we were all entrenched in traditional methods and machinery. But today, with accessible and functional machines and countless examples of their use, we have no excuse not to harness them to their full potential.
@@axelSixtySix Thanks for your fantastic and in depth comment. I have a number of years experience with cnc and various computer controlled machines I am a skilled wood machinist and cabinet maker apprentice trained. I dont need to change my workshop ethics I enjoy how I work. You are right a cnc will always win over a human at accuracy and production times. The aim of the video is to show that the cnc machine can be used in another machining process manually. I had a situation the other week where I was tasked with cutting some carbon fiber patterns out, 50 mixed shapes wanted asap. Six different complicated patterns to draw them up and create the toolpaths would have taken me some time. I used the six different patterns as the template, made a 10 min jig and machined all in less time than it would have taken me to draw them accurately. The other week I had a ransom ware virus on my pc it was away for 2 weeks but yet I still did some machining. What your implying is to leave behind old skills and rely on machines ?
@@Tonys.Top.Tips.Workshop Thank you for your thoughtful reply. It's quite clear that you have no intention of changing the way you approach this new technology, and that is entirely within your right. As we say, "there's none so deaf as those who will not hear." I believe your response exemplifies this saying perfectly. Once again, I respect your perspective, even though I find it somewhat irrelevant. Regarding your defense of traditional skills, this is purely a matter of pragmatism, nothing more. I observe the transition to digital manufacturing with a sense of historical context, and I see precisely the same resistance that occurred when people transitioned from manual tools to machines. Initially, the majority clung to their manual tools, arguing that it was better to use a file or a plane rather than a machine. Then, we saw a handful of brave souls who eventually realized that machines were more precise and productive. Yet, they merely transplanted their old methods onto these new tools, often lamenting the difficulties of abandoning their habits in the face of new machinery. This was a significant error because it is not the machines that must adapt to the users, but the users who must adapt to the machines, as always. Do you ask a file to conform to your movement, or do you optimize your movement to get the best out of the file? These two categories of workers from another time were wrong, and the future proved it. Ultimately, machines largely replaced hand tools, workshops transformed, and with that, methods evolved. The workflow changed entirely to take full advantage of the possibilities opened up by stationary machines first, and then portable power tools. And this is precisely what is happening today. The first CNC machines are entering workshops, and many users don’t know how to fully leverage them-instead, they apply outdated methods suited to older tools, which are ill-suited and less productive. That’s the point of my comment. You find yourself, without meaning any disrespect, exactly in the same situation as the worker accustomed to hand tools, who will always be tempted to reach for those old tools or to use the machine as if it were a manual tool at the first opportunity, simply because their mindset hasn’t yet aligned with the new technology. Again, I do not cast stones; it took me several years to truly grasp the magnitude of this technology and the structural changes in methods and mindset that it requires. To fully exploit a CNC machine, one must forget what they know about traditional work methods, and entirely rethink the organization of the work, the workshop, and production methods. I see at least five different ways to execute what you demonstrated, all infinitely more efficient. Once again, I say this without demeaning your efforts. I also acknowledge your unfortunate experience with a PC virus. Personally, I haven’t encountered such malware issues in 25 years, because, as computers are essential to my workflow, the systems used to design or control machines are, of course, isolated from any external threats. Like CNC machines, computing requires that one adapts their methods to ensure productivity. My initial comment, which I hope you took as friendly and constructive, was merely intended to inform you that, in this video, you were heading down the wrong path-something that happens to all of us at times. Unfortunately, we can waste a great deal of time and energy if there is no one kind enough to warn us in time. Sooner or later, everything I’ve mentioned in these two messages will begin to make sense. Best of luck moving forward. Warm regards.
Bacteria (and "parasites") have many different sizes. In terms of magnification, this microscope would be fine for several types. However, to see bacteria you'll generally want a microscope that backlights samples placed on a transparent plate (so that you're projecting light _through_ the bacteria and _into_ the microscope), and this is a soldering / part inspection microscope, with an opaque base, so you'd have to modify it. There are probably similarly priced microscopes better suited to biological subjects.
Nice video Tony. Thanks for sharing your experience. Have you ever found the vacuum ball valves online anywhere? I have been hunting around for them without any luck.
Hi thanks for the comment I purchased mine with 2 small vacuum bed kits from Trend they came with ten in each pack. I have found them here www.mpower-tools.co.uk/product/vacuum-clamp-pressure-activated-ball-valve-packs/. Have a look at this site hope this helps
I have a similar one that worked fine except that the claimed 1200x magnification was a con. Divide the displayed item dimension by the dimension of the observed object to get the magnification factor. Try to observe cells in a spot of blood.
Hi Thanks for your comment and the info I use it more for checking how my brine shrimp hatchlings are doing I know it says 1200 but its not that but for what I use it for its good
Nice job Tony. I have two A1s and two Minis now and they're all amazing printers. They've been reliable work horses. A couple of AMS lites is on my short list for sure. I do print some decorative items like figurines and wall art, but most of my prints are functional parts. I've been printing in PLA, PETG and carbon fiber PETG and all the prints have been excellent. I'm incredibly impressed with bambu's machines.
Thanks for the great comment ,the Bambu printers are my go to now for the shear speed and quality. My zortrax is just as good at the finished Item but no where near as quick.
Nice review! I have one on order to arrive next week. It looks fast, especially zipping across voids with no strings. I have a spot reserved next to my PC on the office desk, so hopefully not too noisy. Otherwise I can move it to my workshop area but the WiFi is weak down there.
Hi thanks for your comment I am printing at the moment on all 3 and they just do the job, in fact I have not gone to my other printers since I purchased the 3 Bambu labs printers. Happy printing
I'd like to know how you bought this microscope for around 20 UK Pounds. I went looking on the Temu site, thinking that I would buy one. Alas, this item is selling for 150 to 180 Canadian dollars. I think your Pound is equal to about 2 Cdn $, so that would be about $40. For that of price I can buy a much simpler version of the item. Your comments would be appreciated
Hi thanks for your comment, I purchased it as part of the offer if I opened an account with them I think it was just over £20 I can't remember exactly. I purchased a number of items of clothing with the order. I know that I can't buy that now at the same price. There are offers on all the time with Temu
@@Tonys.Top.Tips.Workshop Hi Tony. Thank you for that very fast reply. and for clarifying that issue. I also have an account with Temu. I must say I am very pleased with the items I have so far received. Mostly clothing.. I will certainly keep my eyes open for such a deal. Again, Many thanks, and keep up the good work. Cheers, Dave.
And now those ba.ter.s from Temu have ALL you're info and they sell it to other Chinese w⚓⚓ sites . How do you think they make their money ? NOT by selling cheap crap , i thought you would be a lot smarter at you're age 🙄🙄👎👎👎
Temu's prices vary wildly. I bought a slightly better soldering microscope for around 60 euros, and two days later it was 90 euros (same listing - and still the cheapest). I think they do that so that people go back to the site often.
Great idea Tony. Unfortunately, the aluminium T slot table section is currently not available from Amazon UK. Amazon Aus can provide a MDF / Aluminium hybrid board for the 4040 with a 200mm extension. Cost is approximately $300 or 150 pounds. Do you think this would work as well? many thanks in advance.
Hi thanks for your comment I purchased mine off Ebay for approx £70. Is the hybrid board made up of MDF and alloy T slot if it is it should be ok. I preferred the all alloy T sections. If I need a spoil board on I just bolt one to the table. Quite a lot of uses use that type of bed.
@@Tonys.Top.Tips.Workshop HI Tony. The hybrid bar has 6 aluminium T bars and 7 MDF strips and measures 420 x 600 x 20.5mm. I doubt that I could make it as precise as this one for the price. I think that it would be a useful extension for when I start using a trimmer router for larger projects. At the moment I am content with the smaller spindle and practicing on small MDF boards until I get more confident wit the software and the machine. Your videos are giving me helpful guidance along this journey. Cheers KBDesignsAu
@@kerrodhallett4944 Hi thanks for the comment you are so right in the way you are going about it, as I always say one step at a time. I here of so many users taking huge steps ending in serious mistakes. Keep progressing as you are
Hi thanks for your comment it's a Yorkshire way of saying it can hold it's own against the bigger printers for the size it is. I am not using the SMS on this printer but that recommendation sounds good
Another helpful video for a novice CNC user like me. Now that I have the router working I can play around withe settings to make some basic designs. Many thanks Tony.
@@derekhawley9660 I think sainsmart should really look at how they produce equipment they are very short sighted, bringing things out that should just work on what you have not have to do a complete motherboard change.
Hi Tony, how are you today. Thanks again for all your help. I am happy to report that the third one is the charm🎉😊. Now I don’t have my laptop with me at home today but the third one just arrived and I tried it right away with no computer hooked up to the machine. The wheel felt much smoother than the first two and it worked as soon as I powered up the machine😁😁🎉🎉.
@@Tonys.Top.Tips.Workshop thanks again, I actually use one almost identical at work on a lathe as a machinist so I’m looking forward to using it in the gemnitsu😊
Many thanks Tony. They sent the Z axis strip, not single switches. I will follow your steps this morning and hopefully get things working. Cheers from downunder.
Hi Tony. Me gain from downunder. I have checked my 4040 pro and it has the upgraded Z axis and the Z probe seems to work as it should. Hopefully no problems atm. Thanks again for another helpful setup video.
Hi Tony Me again, CNC newbie from downunder. I have had an issue with the Candle software sending a "check limits" message after only 10-15 seconds of operation. It also happens with LightBurn and Laser GRBL software. SainSmart have sent me a replacement Z axis limit switch and mother board without instructions. Whilst I have some idea about what to do, I am not an electrical engineer and your help would be appreciated. BTW I have watched your helpful videos many times and your tips are very clear and practical.
Sorry to here about your problem, if it's a limit switch it is easy to replace if you know which one of the two it is. Replace one and try the machine if it cures the problem great if not swop it back again and swap the other one. If that does not work shop the board. When swapping the board take photos of the connections I use coloured felt tip markers on connector blocks and number them. I will try and do a video on changing the board in the next few days. It's not as hard as you think to change it but try the limit switches first.
Hi Tony, thank you for your film. I have exact the same configuration as you have, i only use the Makita router. I have no problem with this controller. I have a problem with the grbl controller. When I push the ‘home button’ of this controller, the z stepper motor goes up and will not stop. Also the end stop of the z axis does not work when I use the home button . I have today Saintsmart asked for help. I am sure they will help me.
Hi thanks for the info. Sorry your having problems sounds like the micro switch for the z axis is not working. Have you changed it with one of the spares that came with the machine.
Thanks Tony for your reply. The micro switch works when I turn the z axis by hand and also when I use the mpg controller. It is also strange that when I use the home button only the z-axis moves and is going up and up. It only stops when I use the stop button. So even if the micro switch does not work, the home button will not function.It looks to me like a bug in the software. But I am new in this cnc world. I can still use the machine for everything else works fine. For your information: I use the Vcarve pro software and I also bought the x-axis extension kit.
Thanks so much for all your help.Just to confirm a couple things. The first one worked a couple times, but I had to rotate the wheel back and forth, the wheel seemed tight and seemed to break free and then it started working, but then one time it just stopped working. The green light lights up on both of the yet it doesn’t move the machine.The control board they sent was the exact replacement as the old which is not the wifi one. The wheel seems tight on this one as well.The machine is so small, it’s not really necessary but nice to have.
I also tried connecting the way you show in the video and nothing, the green light is always powered up so I know that there is some kind of power going there. I’ve started a return but haven’t sent it back yet, not sure if I should try a third??
Hi thanks for your question, no its not a standard 600mm its 540mm a work station top. All my 3d printers fit on this work station top. I have fitted a separate top to this one and all is good. Its a fantastic printer but the depth of this printer because of the cable is larger than any of my 3d printers including the Xmax. I wanted to make people aware to check the size of their worktop if they have a wall at the back.
Hi thanks for your feedback. I received mine from SainSmart as I had flexing on my original Z axis so they sent me one free of charge. All the new one have the upgraded Z axis fitted. You purchase them from SainSmart but try complaining about flex in your old one they might replace it free of charge. Let me know how you get on
