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Get zep neutral floor cleaner. It is ph balance no harsh chemicals so streak free. Follow the directions for lvp. I have lvp. I do a room at a time for 2500 sqf house. Sweep and sweep again and then vacuum on floor setting then the zep. I use bono cleaner pads and swap them out after each cleaning. Follow the grain along the floor. I do that once a month and daily I use a wet swifter with diluted zep after a sweep. Pretty much what the vid says to do. NO STEAM MOPS OR SHINE PRODUCTS
So in essence LVP and LVT is literally an epic pain-in-the-ass to maintain. Thank you Shaw for giving us a reason to live. I have truly found my purpose in life.
Whats the difference between a alkaline pre spay and an alkaline rinse? I thought the whole purpose of a “rinse” was to bring down the ph of a pre spray.
I charge 1 dollar per linear foot for steps and have for years now. I guarantee that's not too much at all and some might want to charge more. Stairs that are really let go can be a bit of a challenge. I find most of my stairs come in at 3 to maybe 5 dollars per step with 3 or 4 by far most common in my area. If you have another way and people are willing to pay I'm all for you. Just giving a suggestion. I apply my linear foot to a 3-foot wide step or to a 10 or even 20-foot wide step which will be 20 bucks PER STEP MINIMUM. All I do is generally measure one step and count the steps and multiply the width X by however many steps there are. It makes my life a bit easier so use it if you like it! If you feel it's not enough charge more, but I would not advise going 1 cent less than a dollar a foot width.
I don't know if anyone from Hydramaster will even read this, but here goes anyway. That red-handled shut-off valve should be put on EVERY machine IMHO or at least make it optional when the machine is ordered. Personally, I think it should be on all of them if you're going to be operating at even 600 to 1,000 psi. That chemical pump can and will get damaged at pressures much lower than 1,000 psi. The chemical pump on my Boxxer 421 has been by far the least reliable part of that machine by a large margin. It takes very little to damage it. I just recently removed it from the machine since it's so incredibly problematic. I know I'm not alone in this. I believe having the ability to shut that thing off would GREATLY assist in making those things more reliable and longer lasting. I can tell you this in my experience if you operate even above 700 psi to 1,000 for tile and grout you BEST protect that chemical pump or else you won't be using it much longer! It simply cannot take that kind of pressure for long. Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think so. Otherwise, I do like the layout of this Boxxer 318 better than the Boxxer 421 although it has overall been a very reliable machine with the notable exception of the chemical metering system which has caused so many problems I just said the heck with it. Tired of fixing it every time I turn around.
Yeah let’s just put antifreeze in not use windshield washer fluid way cheaper and much easier on the seals and gaskets it protects down to -32 degrees antifreeze is very dangerous
Hi! you mentioned about using water based solution on water based stain and solvent based solution for oil based stain. How about the ph level of both water and solvent based solution according to the spot? how does it relate to cleaning?
I've got a patch of carpet that's become yellowish after a solution of water and sodium percarbonate dropped on it and I just let it dry on its own. Should I use acid wash? It's been at least 6 months. Would acid wash work?
you could dilute white vinegar and water to try and remove the spot. yet i do recommend using alkali based cleaner first before rinsing it off with acid wash. i recommend using distilled water to avoid hard water stains. though im not sure if the mineral deposits from tap water will be dissolved if you mix the vinegar in it. either way i wouldnt risk it if im not sure