This channel is all about the 1971 Jeep CJ5 Renegade II model. I created channel to post videos of my Renegade II so other owners will have reference information for their restoration project. The Renegade is mostly stock configuration. I’ll try to point out features I have upgraded.
I know its been three years since you posted this hope you still monitor it. So red wire from battery to back of relay. red wire from front of relay to distributor. green wire from passenger side ballast to passenger side of relay. green wire from driver side relay to where. And the wire from ignition to driver side ballast gets disconnected and spliced into the green wire from passenger ballast???? Do you use the 5th center pin or is it just hanging. Thank You
You have it right. The center pin is not used, left open. Battery goes to pin 30 (back) distributor connected to pin 87 (front), pin 85 is connected to ground. The trigger for the switch (relay) pin 86 comes from the ignition switch (green wire) via old ballast connection. The ballast is bypassed, not needed. Good luck, you should get nice powerful spark with this setup.
To provide full 12V to ignition coil for better spark. Also eliminate wiring through ignition switch along with voltage drop. Same principle as running headlights through relay instead of full current through dash switch. Good question, thanks
Currently restoring a CJ5 74 258 v6 I’m rebuilding the transmission and I’ve ordered the new parts for the rest of the jeep so hopefully I can drive it soon and get some body work done
I have a 79 cj7 that I'm rebuilding. So far no modifications at all and I'm wanting to avoid issues but want a 2" lift. What would your thoughts and feedback be for me?
Shouldn’t have any issues, I have 2” lift on all my Jeeps, makes them stand proud. Now if you change shackles then you would want to check castor angle, btw most smart phone have built in level app so should be easy to check.
@@MarkPuhr thanks Mark. The general consensus seems to be up to 3" or less seems to be okay. I ended up with a 2.5" BDS lift. With .5" shackles to avoid wandering issues. Should be okay. I did buy just in case the transmission drop down bolt kit just in case. What app are you talking about to check the drive line alignment? Just a digital level ? If that's what you mean, couldn't I use a small bullet level?
@@celticcraps I have iPhone the digital level is second screen in compass app that comes with ios. If your rear trans and diff not in same plan, you could always raise engine instead of losing clearance by dropping trans. Depends on engine mounts, I’m not familiar with ‘79.
So I just ran into the same issue with my 73. BDS said they had a batch of front springs with part number painted on wrong side which reverses the spring per instructions, so that the single clamp side that doesn’t have the bolt through goes towards the front. Just thought you should know even though it’s been some time.
Your " Bellcrank " is actually a " Pitman Arm ". The Bellcrank is what takes your clutch pedal rods vertical movement and converts it to a horizontal movement which operates the clutch lever that operates the pressure plate. It's called the " Bell Crank " for specific reason . Nice CJ - 5
Yes, you want to extend the bump stops. Not sure where to source, I made my own. I should/plan to make mine out of square tubing, but I made mine out of oak wood block that I had handy, then stained ebony black with clear coat.
Curious if your front white circle parking lights are original, if not would you mind sharing wear you purchased them? I have a 71 as well. Looks amazing!
I put reproductions on, barneysjeepparts on eBay, $16 for the pair of lens. The old ones were frosted from age, plus one cracked. The inside of lens are not smooth, rough to reflect light so polishing would be difficult.
I have Flowmaster single chamber muffs off headers. Your Jeep sounds pleasantly sedate in comparison. Mine still idles like an off time sewing machine. But once on throttle you want earplugs in. After hearing yours I may have to change my setup and sell to a teenager As to bashing them while crawling, just make sliders that extend down a smidge, want to protect the rockers anyway. Angle iron with a tube running a little lower and out a bit like a running board adds a step and stiffness and protection.
That is a beautuful CJ-5. I love tge side pipes, but would be really prone to crushing them on obstacles. Currently looking at a '66 with the 225 Dauntless & curious what performance mods are available like a 4 barrel carb etc.
@@-oiiio-3993 I do have a Warn overdrive unit, just haven’t install yet. I’ve read the Dauntless with 4:88 gears and OD is one of the best combinations for these early CJs. BTW I do have a Dauntless HEI video on RU-vid.
@@MarkPuhr The WW2 'Jeeps' had 4:88, early CJs with 134 had 5:38. Per this info, yours should be 3:73 or 4:88 if ordered that way. www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/whats-the-gear-ratio.102736/ There were different tooth counts on Warn overdrive units. Yours must be correct to match the t-case. Once installed, they're wonderful. Splits every gear.
@@MarkPuhr I didn't mention; I drive a flatfender Jeep (titled as '46 2A) with 225 Odd Fire, Kenne Bell equipped, overcarbureted, MSD, headers, 4 speed, Warn overdrive on Spicer 18... . Windshield down, goggles and gloves.
My 'Odd Fire' is Kenne Bell equipped, overcarbureted, running through headers and throaty mufflers. The 90 - 150 - 90 - 150... idle and 165432 firing order makes it sound / behave like three V twins strapped together.
Mine was on the Jeep when I purchased it. But I’ve read the ‘72 - ‘75 one piece tie rod will work, then use one of the existing tie rods as a drag link. So go to Morris 4x4 or favorite Jeep supplier and purchase the tie rod.
I have a similar lift and tires on my 1970 cj5 and I’ve been dealing with the sloppy steering from the stock linkage for to long I’m going to give this a try thanks for the video!
Congratulations on this excellent find and purchase ! Looking forward to seeing future videos on its progress as you can . Just viewing its pristine sheet metal gives me a better idea of how my 1973 should look . Although mine is the ‘72-‘75 body of 82.5 in. wheelbase , your Jeep and mine are similar in a lot of places if not most . Still got some work to do on my 1980 which is currently a driver but got to get back on the ‘73 . Already put in a new clutch assembly a few years ago but got to get moving on its chassis and body tub . Yeah , it needs sheet metal too . Best of luck on this sweet project as we can see it’s already off to a great start now 👍 BTW , that is one beautiful renegade !
@@MarkPuhr Lol. That is true, I was just sayin, if you were to sell that gem, only someone with Dennis Collins kind of money could afford it. She's worth every penny of course, you did a great job restoring her. Your knowledge of the available options etc, reminded me of one of his coffee walks, that's all. Thanks again for sharing.
Beautiful CJ-5. Love Jeeps since I first saw my neighbor's as a young kid(5-7). Now I drive my '77 every day. Makes me smile whenever I get in the driver's seat. ;)
