Thanks Chance, your video was very informative. I did read the instructions, but having never done anything like this before I found your tutorial really helpful.
Why doesn't anyone take a moment to inspect the inner parts, IE Tension Chains, Etc., and explain what to be looking for that might be wrong in this area? Great video and I confirmed a lot I knew. Thank you!
There is no way to warranty a clutch for a certain amount of HP. There are just too many variables involved. However, this kit is typically good for 125-130 HP. After that you will need our Scorpion clutch.
I installed without issue. Removed both spring in the back. I’ve adjusted cold about 7 times now. The lever release is way to close to the bar. Father from the grip. I’ve adjusted 1/2 a turn. 1 full turn… Still same result. I have maybe a half inch of engagement in the lever to engage clutch it’s terrible what am I doing wrong?
Watched your video on changing the clutch plates, I guess the process would be the same for a 2014 Heritage Softail correct? If so thank you for your excellent video. .....
Im fairly sure it will, but does this work with the rekluse extra disk torque drive clutch pack? Stock basket and spring just has the rekluse clutch pack and hold down ring. Thanks in advance
@christaylor4266 do you happen to know what prevents it from working with the rekluse? After taking mine apart it does appear to have the same factory single spring and whatnot still. Thanks for the input mate cheers
If it's a stock type clutch it may work. If it has the thick piece in it (auto clutch) then it won't work. We don't test with their products so we cannot say 100% for sure either way.
No. The Sportster uses a double riveted steel plate in the clutch pack. If you replace your clutch with our Sportster extra plate kit (#307-30-10011), the double riveted steel plate is NOT used. If you replace your clutch with a standard replacement clutch, then you will retain the double riveted plate.
There really isn't a specific HP rating for each set of springs. The idea is to use the softest set of springs without slippage. Being there are three sets of springs, there are multiple pressure options as three and three can be used from any two sets of springs. We generally recommend starting with the light springs and if that is not enough, go to the medium set.
Can I use the c90 boulevard clutch kit on the c109r? I can’t seem to find any good aftermarket heavy duty or performance clutch kits for the c109r specifically. So I’m wondering if I can use one from another bike that would match up like a m109 or c 90 etc.? Additionally does Barnett make a scorpion for the 08 c109r?
NO, the C109R clutch is unique and nothing like other typical manual motorcycle clutches regardless of brand. Basically, the plates that would typically be bare metal have friction material and the plates that would typically have friction material on them. We don't these plates and I don't believe anybody does other than Suzuki. We do, however, make a set of heavy duty springs that should help. The part number is 501-58-06092 ($30.50) and you can order them at barnettclutches.com. The Scorpion clutches are only made for Harley Davidson models.
The E-Z pull devices are great as long as you can properly adjust the cable which can be an issue. For that reason, we make a simple spacer that can be installed at the lever or midway adjuster - P/N 111-80-28619 (chrome) and 111-80-68619 (black) - 2 spacers per pk.
Good video. You commented on the heavier lever pull with the stiffer clutch spring. I wish you would have mentioned the likes of the "Muller Motorcycle AG Power Clutch" option where the geometry of the disengagement mechanism offers a mechanical advantage to mitigate that stiffness in clutch the lever. I know sometimes performance comes at the cost of comfort, what are your comments about this variation from the stock lever feel?
"shorten the cable adjuster so it's all the way collapsed". What does that mean? They don't take the effort to show you. This video is kinda half ass. Maybe Energy One will show me.
The stock clutch uses 10 frictions and 9 steel plates (Barnett kit #303-30-10019) and our extra plate kit (Barnett kit #304-30-10020) includes 11 frictions and 10 steels. Both of these kits also include a set of 3 heavy duty replacement springs.
if I do this extra plate kit kevlar in my 2009 street bob and use the stock spring. will it still be a hardder clutch than stock? or same feel? only gets harder with the upgraded HD spring? thanks.
so I only have about 10k miles on my bike, but wan't a bit more pressure on my clutch I guess you could say, little stronger, would replacing the stock spring with this HD one be fine? and not worry about all new clutch plates? or is there more to it? what exactly is this doing besides prolonging the clutch? which mine should be fine since its still low miles. is my thought. @@christaylor4266
CAUTION ! When using this conversion kit you MUST retain the original pressure plate and diaphragm spring. You will need them to remove the Clutch Hub Mainshaft Nut (which has left hand threads) You must remove this nut to remove the primary chain.
This doe not apply to M8 touring bikes. There is a specific order to the way the plates get installed. Luckily I read the instructions and called Barnett to verify this. With that said, love the way my clutch feels now.
Estas ajustando mal el clutch, antes de mover el ajustador el chicote o cable debe estar completamente flojo. Después de clocar el ajustador en su posición correcta y apretar ahora si ajustas el chicote o cable hasta que la palanca quede firme.
Well Chance thanks for all your help...You and Barnett suck...Your clutch is impossible to adjust. I followed the instructions you supplied....Followed it to the letter and I have been fucking with this clutch ever since. What a disappointment you, Barnette and your products are....I'll be throwing your brand new clutch in the fucking trash can where it belongs....Try manufacturing something that doesn't take Engineering ...You guys can't handle it..
Do you remove those ring plates for all Harley’s ??? I just installed that clutch and left those ring plates in. Everything went back together, just haven’t turned on the bike.
Thank you so much for this. Just ordered the heavy duty spring as my 103 are getting cams this season. I’ve got a question for you. If i were to not have the courage enough to change my diaphragm spring myself, how much time should my local dealer be able to change this part within? Any complementary clutch parts that you’d recommend or such when already in there? Cheers!
Don’t be nervous, Jacob. Just buy a service manual and follow the instructions. If you’re interested, I posted a 10 part video series on servicing the primary drive of my ‘05 Super Glide.
I am assisting in doing one of your kits. What came out of this 2011 Harley with the EVO with the 103 engine. The "assumed" factory installed friction plates and steel plates, seem to be fishy. The parts that came out, or the parts closet to the transmission case, in this order... Friction plate, with larger I.D. (X1). Judder plate, inside of above friction disk (X1). Belleville washer/spring, inside also of above (X1). Then a steel plate (X1). Small I.D. friction disk (X1). Steel. Friction. Steel. Etc.. Here is the issue. One of those steel plates is cone shaped or Belleville shaped, only of them is like this. Other then the shape being like a bellville washer/spring, it is identical to the other steel plates. It is perfectly cone shaped too. Does not appear to have been bent all to heck as it if was mashed to cause the cone shape. Or maybe it was and that is why it is shaped that way? Is this normal? I have never seen this in a clutch pack assemble before and truly seems to be illogical for even wear pattern and to allow for a total clutch disiengagement while holding the clutch handle in, while in gear. And the bike does have friction passing through the few times it was started up. Plus, the pulling out of 1st to get into neutral and exceptionally difficult. I speculate this steel plate acting like a spring never allowing for a total disengagement of power transfer. Yet, that is what came out of the unit, and the bike didn't do this. We have hunted for articles and pictures and videos of this oddity of a bellville shaped steel that is just like the other steel plates, in design, not including the it being cone shaped or Belleville spring look. The parts we purchased from Barnettes Clutches & Cables look great and measure out perfectly. I also speculate that we should have just purchased the steels kit as well. But typically had fair luck in just reusing the steels in many other cases (not Harley stuff) but on foreign units, which is what I personally more familiar with. Any verbal assistance to this strange oddity would be an absolute wonderful and kind gesture to educate me if that part is normal and supposed to be there and if so, where in the stack is it typically designed to be at. Or is this what happens if a steel gets cooked and warps? LoL. Mind you, my good friend is not aggressive with his toys. But parade duty is a common thing, and wonder if that could have caused such a warpage, if that is what caused this single steel plate to be shaped like this? Anybody's assistance will be so helpful.
If I’m picturing what you’re talking about correctly in my head, then yes it’s normal There’s a video by Gilstrap Garage “Harley Davidson clutch replacement”. He talks about it
@@Jay_Hernandez96 Roger that. I shall look into this video. Thank you so much. As a follow up, the kit was installed, as per the instructions, and a few short tests and final cable adjustment ,etc., he has been running the new frictions disks, and also, he ordered in steels as well, and ALL IS GREAT with Barnett's kit/parts. I can safely assume, he has about 200 to 300 miles on his unit now and no issues. I still desire to learn about what that cone shaped steel is all about if it is shaped that way from the factory, or if heat caused that to deform into the cone shape... Thank you so much.
I believe that the cone shaped steel works something like an added internal diaphragm spring. Not the best design imo. The Barnett kits seem to be very durable with good lock-up. I have one on my 2016 stage two FLSTC and will soon be installing one in my 2010 FLHTK. Using the Screaming Eagle diaphragm spring on both as I have a little bit of arthritis in my Left hand. Otherwise I would have gone with the Barnett spring.
Installed the Exra Plate kit on my Harley along with your stock spring....I made sure I to the two rings out of the clutch basket as you require to be done with the extra plate clutch. If I adjust the center push rod 1/2- 3/4 turn out and lock the nut the damn bike when its hot will not go into neutral .....There isn't enough throw out. Im thinking that is because I changed the ball ramps on the clutch to easy pull ball ramps so that means the ramps aren't as steep therefore the stock 1/2-3/4 turns out won't work. Im not moving the rod far enough because the ramp height is less. So, Im thinking I should adjust the rod so the set screw touches and then do not turn it out at all....What are your thoughts on this...????
I have a 2007 sportster 1200 which seems like trans and primary oil is combined. I read on the instructions that the Harley formula + oil will cause sticking. Which is the better primary/trans oil to run for hard use???
You can use ATF type F or Dexron. The type F will give you more aggressive engagement whereas the Dexron will be smoother. Any of the name brand primary oils designed for the Sportster clutch are also fine to use.
