@1mad_bug yes you can use the stock converter. I would recommend this cam as long as you get a tune. You will likely need larger fuel injectors if you have headers and exhaust like mine. My combination resulted in poor gas mileage when untuned. But I daily drove it that way for 2 years and its currently still my daily. In my tune I had to adjust the torque converter lockup and transmission shift stuff pretty heavily to make it drive the way I wanted. On my combo the stock tune was really rich below 2000rpm and lean everywhere else. I put a stock converter back in when I was testing a few things and it drove fine but, the stall converter definitely makes it faster and I have since reinstalled it along with a aftermarket transmission cooler. I lost some low end torque for sure and I have since purchased 4:56 gears that I'm going to install during the winter. I currently have the 3:55s. 4:10s would be good if you keep stock tire sizes but I plan on going to a taller tire with a lift kit.
I would like to do all of those things soon I have just been incredibly busy. I have since tuned it and have ordered 4:56 gears but, the weather here in AZ is 100+ already. What I can tell you is that with the cam and full exhaust the stock injectors are maxed out so I will also be needing a set of larger injectors.
Any work done to the valve guides? I've been looking online everyone says to trim them down with cams over .500". Just wondering because I got a 506/506 lift 216/224 duration cam and don't feel like doing the valves but I will if I need to
It does not the 3 inch mandrel bent system with modified 1 1/2 headers I fabricated took over 1.5 seconds off of my 0-60 times without a tune. Factory uses a crappy 2 1/4 inch crush bent pipes in the front at least on the 4wd/awd. My system is now 3 inch from the headers out the back bumper. FYI 4 1 1/2 pipes has the same cubic flow as 1 3 inch pipe so my system has uniform flow from the heads to the bumper.
@@azblueovalfan7192 so you made your own headers can you post a 0 to 60 video of your Durango? Which cam did you install been looking st some on Hughes the cam and spring kits..
@l042987 I modified a set of ebay headers to accept 3 inch v band clamps and used a few pie cuts on the passenger side to give me more clearance on the oil filter and bellhousing. I will make another video showing the whole exhaust system soon. The cam I used is in the description of this video. As mentioned I used the Hughes Engines valve spring kit.
Yeah the v6 and v8 transmissions are the same but the v6 came with the sn95 bellhousing bearing retainer and input shaft all the way to 2004. They can just be swapped to the fox parts to convert them. Also, the new edge ones have a different tail housing for the electric speedometer but can be swapped as well or run as is if you don't use the cable. Also the v6 models don't make enough torque to hurt them so they are better candidates. To answer your question yes it still has a t5 from a v6.
Nope still stock exhaust. I had to pull the transmission out to fix a front pump leak. I ended up needing 600 in other parts and also while it was out I installed the transgo transmission reprogramming kit that set me back. I hope to work on it soon. I have a laundry list of parts this thing needs for better performance. The exhaust is on that list but cooling system upgrades and a upgraded transmission cooler are on the top.
Apparently you comment didn't show in my notices did you ever get those 4.56s in? I'm also planning on going to 4.56s but I'm waiting to buy my mvpi iii next I did finish the exhaust but haven't made a good vid just a short
@@azblueovalfan7192 I have them but put it in a disc brake ram 9.25 rear end and I haven't put it under the truck yet. I split the front diff case wheeling in Moab so I'm working on developing a cast steel 8.25 diff instead for the front axle center section
Yes stock magnum heads, rockers and pushrods. I don't remember the exact measurements, but it had miles of clearance because of the low duration. Lift usually isn't the biggest issue with a cam and the problems it normally causes are with the valvetrain components such as lifters, springs, pushrods ect but can cause piston to valve with oversized valves. It's how long the valves stay open that usually causes piston to valve issues. Also due to less displacement of the 318 it should perform a bit better. FYI the mopar magnum crate engines had flat tops and much longer duration cams as they were not intended for oem applications so you will be fine but I'd always check as machining errors can happen.
I'm probably going to use the ebay headers I have and do a 3 inch y pipe to a 3 inch single with a 3 inch high-low cat and a magnaflow 6 inch round muffler. Unfortunately we're I live I have to keep all of the emissions equipment. I was considering a 4 inch tailpipe so I didn't have to redo it for future upgrades
Gotcha I bought a set of smog legal headers about a year ago,but I ended up using a set of long tube ceramic coated headers that was given to me in return for allowing the use of my RT to develop proper true fit headers by a reportable local company here in California,and I have a K&N fipk kit again I bought but had a change of mind new in the box as well.
Yo man am a ford man by heart. Ford took me to school and work and was loyal to the family from the f150 to the marks and econolines now got this 5spd v8 and Mopar is a world am barely getting into
Yeah I still have plenty of ford's I just got this thing cheap and descided to see what it could do. The 5.9 seems to make less then a 5.0 with similar mods on paper but more cubes should make more power and the aftermarket is pretty crap so I feel the mopar guys got stiffed. I figured I'd try some stuff out and see if I could make descent kid hauler on a budget since I'm broke these days lol. I will get around to it when I can
@@azblueovalfan7192 yeah that's the challenge about these engines is not much out there for mopars like there is for 350sbc and 302sbf, ls engines in general have a huge aftermarket support making it easier. Especially living in California things aren't as easy. I been watching uncle Tony and other youtubers and grabbed information from all and putting it into work in my 5.2 dakota and it's been impressive the free power that can be freed up. Am a broke fellow so everything I do I have to be realistic to my budget so home port n polish for the throttle body and soon picking up a wrecked $200 ram truck for the engine and scrap the rest I prefer manual transmissions personally so that's the way I'll also be going if i find a cheap Durango.
For stock exhaust, that sounds amazing. I know you said the torque converter is broken, but did you have any update on fuel economy? I have an '01 Ram with a 5.2 and I'm strongly considering this cam.
As the motor has been breaking in the fuel economy has improved but, it is still not great the 5.9 is known as a gas guzzler and this one seems to be no different also the awd and oversized tires dont do it any favors in the MPG department. The 5.2 is supposed to be better though and my inlaws don't seem to complain about the mileage on their 5.2 2wd ram. I hope to build a custom exhaust soon. I managed to break the front driveshaft cv joint and my foot recently. I replaced the front shaft already but, I haven't been able to work because of my foot but such is life.
You can buy an early 2000s scan tool and adjust the fuel sensor parameters for the sensor on the bottom of the distributor. That will make it run much better and get rid of lean issues.
Yeah I have looked into the fuel sync and have not found anyone who can prove that it effects AFR at all. I have even looked at the Chrysler service manuals and all that they say is it looks for a signal in a specified window of time. That being said, I do have access to a scan tool with the fuel sync option but, since I don't have a wideband installed my estimations are simply hypothetical at this point. When I build the new exhaust I will install an addition bung and wire in a wideband. Then I can settle this dilemma once and for all. Unfortunately it's going to be a little bit. I first have to address my broken torque converter. Also I have looked at the JTEC+ on HP Tuners and the fuel and timing map resolution are very limited probably enough for n/a to work ok ish but when you add like 10psi of boost it's highly inadequate and drivabilty is going to suffer but I will probably still try my hand at it(also the return less fuel system will have to go). I appreciate the feedback and I will definitely look into it as a cheaper alternative getting a tune.
Did you have to get it tuned? Nice job! I'm doing a build on my SST Ram 1996. My list of mods already are 4:10 gears, Transgo shift kit, cut and ported kegger intake, throttle body, equal length shorty headers, 3inch exhaust and no converters, MSD ignition, 160 degree thermostat, and a 93 tune from Flyin Ryan Performance, 1.7 roller rockers, and a nitrous express system designed for the Dodge Magnum engines. Although I stay at 100 horsepower shot and I haven't used it yet. I'm about to install better head gaskets soon, and while at it I'm going to do some porting to the heads. The mods I've done so far have really woke the truck up and the tune really enhanced it. Although I'm going to first see how the porting of the heads will do with adding more power just to experiment before deciding to add a cam. Figure it should complement the 1.7 roller rockers and the other mods without the nitrous. As far as the cam goes I was looking at the same cam myself, as well as a slightly similar cam from Hughes Engines.
I haven't had it tuned I assume it's lean at WOT because it accelerates faster at part throttle but I still have stock exhaust and I have broken the cheap 2800 stall converter (rattles hard at stall speed) so I am just limping it around until I get a Hughes torque converter. I home ported my heads and have ARP head studs because I plan on putting a 76/75 on it. I have a transgo reprogramming kit waiting to go in when I pull the trans. It runs completely normal no hard starts or anything and still has really good low end torque and tons more power up top pulls hard but my stock tune shifts at 4800 ish and it will pull until the rev limiter seems to be around 5500ish. I know because I put it manually in first second and third (O/D off)The stock cams are junk in these motors but I will tell you to cam it you will have to pull the engine because the factory cam bearings are junk I have have pulled apart 20 magnums and havent found a single good cam bearing in any of them. Also all of the heads are cracked at least out here in Az. I ran mine anyways because the cracks were small and I lapped the valves. Hope this helps.
@@azblueovalfan7192 I had the same lean condition with my basic mods that I have plus mine shifted at 4800 RPM at WOT as well. Plus these JTEC vehicles have that "death tune" from the factory. It retards the timing killing torque, especially during shifts. It was for saving the transmissions to avoid warranty claims. After the tune I noticed an immediate improvement!! No more leaning out, and it now shifts at 5200 RPM at WOT. Also with the shift kit and the program advanced timing it hits good with the shifts. The tune pulled everything together. Doing mods WITHOUT addressing the tune with the JTEC is leaving power/performance on the table!! Hope this helps you as well!👍 The stock tune is garbage!! As far as my heads go the previous owner (first owner) had the heads replaced shortly before I bought it. The engine has 93,000 well maintained miles on it. From my experience not all 318/360 engines eat cam bearings. When they do it's usually because the engines were poorly maintained and did get the needed scheduled oil changes.
No Torco makes actual racing fuel in my area its the highest octane rated unleaded racing gas available locally and its non oxygenated meaning no ethanol is mixed into it so it will store for a long time in the 5 gallon can. Also it's cheaper then VP and Sunoco.
Will do I'm just getting started the last pass against the taco bell beamer I peddled it in third. It trapped 104in the 8th and was well on its way to a mid 10. I still have 8-10psi worth of boost to throw at it. I'm gonna try to go a 9 with the t5.
