Simpson Offroad is a top-quality metal fabrication service that specializes in the designing and building of custom front and rear ends. From your Scout cut and turns, to your Wagoneer front end in your CJ and even 1-tons in a TJ. Putting a little old school back in the new school.
Pre heat the inner c to 250+ degrees and any welder that’s 220. I usually tack in 4 spots then weld in quadrants but I’m trying to rig up something so that I can spin the housing while welding for a continuous weld
With the stock CJ knuckles that tie rod looks really close to the diff cover. Does it hit when the knuckles are turned a bit? Or can you get full steering lock without hitting?
You can adjust the bolts so they don't pivot as far or it can/will hit. TMR customs has come up with a great solution which is ream out the rod ends, install their sleeves which flips the tie rod to the top of the knuckle then you have more than enough clearance to go lock to lock.
New at this. I have a 1972 cj5 needing complete Dana 30. These are flip flop center from new units. Also expensive to acquire . Looking at your technique seems viable to buys a good new unit and cut and flip it for the old CJ ? Is this a crazy idea ?
If you're just needing another narrow track dana 30 I have some units that are complete used ones that I would let go. Feel free to shoot me an email simpsonoffroadllc@gmail.com
I don't but if you look at them they just have welds on the top and bottom of them that parallel the axle tube. If you just cut down on those roughly to the axle tube then take a hammer they will come off
I’m doing kind of same thing but with HP D44 that had leaf springs. Is there a reason you chopped off both sides short? My plan is to remove C from long passenger side then cut it to needed new length. Put C on that and weld. Then I only have the driver side to put a splint and add length to. Thanks for your videos on modifying axles appreciate your approach to showing how.
I just did it that way to be able to show that if you don't want to take off the knuckles and just wanted to swap from a passenger side to drivers side or whichever that's how id do it. Doing it the way you mentioned is absolutely fine.
@@simpsonoffroadllc thanks! I’m leaning that way. I’m a full time rv life, gotta figure out a way to do it on the road cheap as possible. Was setting my garage up before covid made it impossible to live in California for me. Is there a preferred model? I’m litterall building on the side of whatever road, gotta have a solid plan of attack.
Jk has a slightly stronger ring gear but the housing and knuckles on this are much stronger. The housings from 1987-present have gotten weaker while the internal parts have gotten stronger
I just rescued a 79 cj7 golden eagle and the axel shafts are not there in the amc 20, my friend has a set of dana 44 from scout ii. what do I need to do to make that work? thanks.
The rear is easy just moving the spring perches, the front you'll have to outboard the front springs to make it work and then do the cut and turn on the inner c's or find a 1974-79 Jeep Truck Dana 44 front and narrow it to match your springs. If you have more questions email me at simpsonoffroadllc@gmail.com
Isn't the copper air line brazed into the seal housing? Brazing and soldering do use different materials and result in joints with different strengths. Soldering, if that is what you are doing to repair a line coming out of the seal housing, will not create as strong of a joint...
Is it possible for the e locker wiring to be run up the vent tube and out at the engine compartment? It may need to be drilled out at the housing to accept a larger diameter vent hose. Is that another easier possibility?
Awesome! Man, 35 years ago, I remember the rear 60 built just like his was the Hot Shiznit !! Junkyard parts swapping with a little machine work was what we did as wheelers..... Nowadays, everybody just follows the big buck herds and has more money in their axles / suspension than I have in my own entire (really dialled in) rig. Wheeling used to be a fun gearhead hobby, now it is a mass market "sport" Nice work!
Really nice ! I was just out in Moab for EJS (my first time back in 20 years) and it seems that the world is all about four-dees or bigger on "Tons" and links...(I mean, you can't run any of the big trails without at least Dana 60's..........Well Right????). I ran Pritchett Canyon, Cliffhanger, Rusty Nail, and a bunch of other trails on 31" pizza cutters. My friends an I shocked a lot of these big new late comers with how our little rigs could climb those stair cases and walls. Nice to see this old school tech and attitude here !!
A way to cut straight is put a hose clamp on and saw/ cut off wheel. If you pull the tune out of the housing then it will need machined outside to fit back in and a new inner seal surface on the inside.
Thank you for taking the time to educate us. The more I google and research, the more I realize there's alot of ideas and tricks people aren't willing to share. Kinda like the KFC 7 herbs and spices.
This is great info and would love to know more about your suggestion to get in touch with you to build an axle combo for a customer. I dont see an email to reach out to you. I am looking to buy a dana 60 or similar for an 1983 CJ7. I would like the axle to be wider than what is on there now,,,so I am looking for options like you suggest. Thank you.
Very good information I tow a 1974 CJ five with a Dana 44 behind a motorhome need to have lockouts on rear so does not hurt transfer case just trying to figure out what I need to do to gets me heading in the right direction to add spindles thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to do videos on the old style jeeps . I have a cj5 I want to put a Dana 44 in after a couple projects keep up the good work can’t wait till next video!
Thanks for taking your time to do videos on the old style jeeps have a cj5 I want to put Dana 44 in after a few projects your videos are awesome can’t wait till next one !
Yeah, I am glad to see this. I am surprised the number of fully built front axles that don't have this change. Nothing wrong with taking off the C by grinding out the weld. Yes, this can cut into the axle tube and the C. Which is actually a good thing. The space will be filled with weld which gives the joint more weld than factory. This more weld and penetration into the axle tube and the C makes it stronger.
Getting ready to do this, I have the pucks and bar. After you tack it up in your eight places are you leaving the bar in while you do your root/welding? Because of it moves, you might not be able to get the bar out.
I like your idea with the handle pin latch. If you put the pin latch on the swing out instead of the bumper, then it becomes a true one-handed latch, since you have control of the swing out when you have the T in your hand.
Having done one 20 years ago. I would also cut down the drivers side as much as possible to move it for more drive shaft clearance. Just saying . But good info.
