the guy in the lambo doesn't care about losing to anyone, the guy in the gn doesn't care about losing to anyone. Either one losing won't convince the owner to sell the car for the other. And shame on anyone who thought the GN was stock
@@black70buick54 yes I know but it's not available at all and I cannot find it on eBay or anywhere else :( I thought maybe you know where I could buy a used one.
Just ran across this, it’s really cool! Is this something that an amateur can do if they understand the transmission strategy? Do u offer a base setup for sale?
@@black70buick54 ok lol i was a half asleep and must have reed / thought wrongly fer some resin must been thinking it may need a different type or source of signal apologizes
@@overbuiltautomotive1299 to be clear you are not too far off. The Arduinos have pwm signaling. I don't think more power is needed to drive the pressure control through a FET. But a 555 timer could be powered up and turned off between shifts to slightly simplify code.
@@black70buick54 cool not bad i guess for a guy that ant ever fooled with that type of digital stuff much lol ;that were mind wuz at is adjustable on the fly possible higher current solution ...i don`t know God bless
Hey man this is awesome, well done. Is there any chance you can send me instructions for this? Like required components and how to put them together? I picked a rolling chassis 89 Camaro and I’ve installed all new suspension, manual rack and pinion, brakes from a C5 etc... for the power train I did a deal with a guy where he gave me a 6.0 ls with 4l60e 2wd (no harness or computer) I have a speeduino kit running the motor and I’ve been using an 0411 to control the trans (like a piggyback ecu in reverse) but I want to upgrade to the 80e and I’d like more control over the gearbox. The aftermarket controllers are for more expensive than I’d like and after seeing what the arduino can do I’d love to have one running my trans. If you’re interested in sending me instructions I’d be happy to pay, trade etc.. to compensate you just one request please if you do decide to send them, idiot proof them lol
Hey Lima, one quick solution to run a 4L80e is to swap the solenoid 2 and 3 wires/pins in the harness with your current setup. Regarding the code baseline for Arduino, I've not touched it in years. I just lost interest and my car is fun to drive in full manual mode anyways. It would take me some time to solder up the FETs and do real world testing. Just no desire to do so, like I said I'm enjoying my original setup. Anyway, good luck with your build.
That is awesome man, I am in the middle of trying to figure out how to not spend 600$ on a "simple" control module.. I guess it is simple in theory but i have hit a few speed bumps and i feel stuck right now, I think its because my lack of understanding on how the transmission works exactly..
Well the rudimentary method is 3 toggle switches (really two if not using the torque converter lock-up) everything else is complicated beyond that. The simple way to shift with some basic logic is to use something like the arduino to sequence the transmission solenoids in the right order. If you want a full auto, that is more complicated and depending on how you value your time worth the $600 to buy a solution. Good luck with your project.
Are you still working on this? The link posted is invalid. I'm wanting to swap a 4l80e into a older diesel pickup truck but not wanting to spend $600 on a controller. I I can add a TPS to the pump on the diesel, and I know I can swap over to a "tach distributor" on the diesel. I'd like to see about getting your code for this if possible. I know I'd need to tweak a few things since redline/WOT is only 3400 on my truck.
I have not touched this in some time. If you want full automatic mode you will need build circuits to use the internal speed sensors in the transmission. You could design around this but that is completely up to you.
@@black70buick54 Yes, I'd like to have full automatic. I was thinking about just building a simple shield for the arudino. I know a lot of people aren't bothering with PWM for line pressure and just running it full pressure. (No biggie to me, this is a 1 ton truck, big and heavy) I was thinking about just using 3 IRF540 to control the A/B and TCC solenoids. Then a buck converter to handle the 14v down to 5v. Would you mind sharing your sketch and schematics? My email is the same as my user name at gmail.com
Are you distributing the TCM sketch? If so, where do you have it up? I've got my 4L80e wired up for manual shift, and while writing arduino sketches aren't a problem, I've no idea of where to even start setting up shift points such that RPM & TPS are both taken into consideration, not to mention pressure control. If I had a TCM, I could feed it input and see how it behaves to get a ball park, but, I don't have one. ;)
I was distributing the sketch and I haven't gotten back to this project in 4 years. I've been using my original system using PIC chips. I may pick this up again next year since I am making changes in the car. Pressure control is a waste of effort. Leave it be, soften your shift based upon RPM. Regarding shift points, that is entirely up to you. Max shifting RPM is really based upon the engine you are mating to the transmission.
@@black70buick54 Does TC lockup need modulated signal, or is it just send to ground like A & B solenoids? Hrm, no pressure control? Shifting to 2nd (and 1st on downshift) is rather harsh at full line pressure, and that's in a Suburban. I get what you're saying, as I have noticed I can mitigate by being hypervigilant on when I shift to second (or downshift into 1st)...which if I had a programmable TCM, I could obviously setup accordingly. In any case, if it wasn't for the harsh 2nd shift, I'd probably never be sufficiently motivated to install a TCM...though paddle shift might have gotten me there (steering column shifting is annoying, to be sure). Many thanks for the insights!
@@dota9925 The TCC and The PCM are originally modulated. The PWM in Arduino is not the right frequency so much more code will be required and/or working out the duty cycle to compensate. 1-2 shift hasn't been an issue for me, maybe because of vehicle weight and or motor torque. TCC was modulated to mitigate heat build up in the TCC coil, but that simply adds heat to the fluid. Again not a problem for me. All my information came directly from the lead Hydromatic engineer . So pwm of these solenoids is upto you.
@@black70buick54 Thank you! Very helpful. I remember there are two frequencies -- pre 94 = 292.5Hz, and 94+ = 614Hz. Looking at arduino spec, looks like 490.196Hz/976.56Hz is default (depending on board and pins), but this can be adjusted with one line of code to between 30-65000Hz. So, doable, but would still need some clue as to how to drive the damn thing (no problem sending 614Hz...but now what?). If modulation is just a matter of heat management, maybe just wire up constant voltage, with temp sensor, and keep an eye on it...?
@@dota9925 if you saw my other videos about this (though incomplete with the arduino) you can use FETs. I am sure you can use a solid state audio driver or motor driver board as well. The trans solenoids are not high power but they are high enough to require amplification from the Audio signaling. You can measure the solenoid draw yourself to double check the specs of what you want to drive them with. Regarding heat, I believe you are over thinking it. just my opinion.
Cool Project. Thinking about doing the same thing for my 4l80e. Any chance you've got an update link to the discussion thread? Its currently dead. Would be nice to see some source code and how your handling the PWM TCC and PCS (Specifically frequencies)
The Arduinos handle some basic PWM well. I use none of that because PWM'ing either the transition by lower hydrualic pressure or PWMing the TCC just adds unnecissary wear and fluid heat. Adding logic to shift at lower engine RPM is smarter when not WOT or something in between. For the TCC lockup, the same is true, running a cooler transmision prevents the TCC solenoid from cooking. I've been running without usinc the PCM for years, at low RPM the engine and transmission shift smooth enough for me. The discussion thread appears archived. There just wasn't enough interest in this. Oh well.
stick to my v-belts if no real benefit.. I ran the inner for couple months, then put on new inner and ran the outer since no AC and have dual belt now.. wore in just enough so both same tension now,.. the one outer crank pulley is tad bigger.. think it was crank.. car stored for winter already..
That was one reason for the video, to specifcally call out there is no efficeincy gain between belts. Secondary benefits are people's claim that this is a great way to go for race engines to prevent a belt flip which is stated to happen with vBelts. The simplicity of access to the front of the engine, timing, water pump and the benefit of upgrading the AC (AC compressor) is still something one should consider, but nothing wrong with the vBelt setup. This ultimately boils down to preference.
Great video and explanation. I'm looking at getting this over the Scanmaster for the reasons you stated, cost and more info. Just wondering, have you added anything analog to it? Would boost be considered analog, and be able to add to it?
@@black70buick54 ok, thanks, I noticed that. Good point as well, since I wouldn't want to purchase an additional tablet but use my phone and that would be hard to read.
Are you being sincere? There are a few more videos and if you are truly wanting my solution and not an 'off the self' version like TCI please let me know and we can work something out.
I'm doing a 6.5 to 350 swap in a 97 chevy p/u. Would you share the code and logic with me so I can keep the 4l80 that's in the truck? I have programming and arduino skills, please help me man!!! Your project is awesome!
i went to this address www.v8buick.com/showthread.php... and it said page error. im looking for parts list, schematics, and coding. can you help me thank you.
Hmm. V8buick did a site upgrade not long ago. I guess the post has changed or expired. Parts and schematic/wire depend mainly on the transmission and vehicle. If you have basic Arduino skills I can give you code snippets with logic.
i just started playing with the raspberry Pi, but i then saw your RU-vid videos and didn't have the money to buy a trans controller. i have a 93 Chevy c1500 5.7 with a 4l60 i have the trans plug schematics just need yours for the unit itself so i can correctly wire the plug for the trans. i am currently lying to the original ecu so i can drive it, because its carbureted now, but it just shifts up and the tcc doesn't work right, i just need something that will work good. i really like the v.12 that you posted and will be working on some arduino skills shortly. i will also be updating my cam and hopefully around tax time purchasing Holley's new sniper fuel injection. appreciate any help. thanks again.
Italian car is built lower to the ground, to handle European roadways. While the Buick is made for our roads, even without any modification in North America. depends where the it was filmed too. Wonder what the weight difference is between cars, and the wheel base? l will look that up!
I've not done much lately. It is fully functional but not installed in the car. I've had other projects to tackle that have been higher priority. Cost is pretty low. Maybe $100.
hmmm that is low , cheaper than a lot of the other offered tcu's think you could sell them if there reliable and completely build and ready to install been looking intoo the stock TCU from a jaguar version of the 4L80E and i think its possible to get it to work like it should needs some signals from the ecu and some from a couple of extra sensors on the motor , the wiring diagram from the TCU to the outside worlsd can be found on the internet
I have sold a version using the micro-controller - MicroChip 'PIC' 16F648. Using Arduino the ~$100 is just the Arduino and shield, plus cost of the wiring harness. Total cost is probably $200 to get it into your car with any miscellaneous parts. btw that is not the selling price, this is just costs. What I am doing is custom. Mass production would be hard to get into market that is not very strong to make any profit. For the Jag, or any late model it is easiest to use a Arduino, You can pull signals from any sensor or simply set -up a "paddle" shifter. Buying and installing sensors is still relatively cheap but depending on time it could be worth buying an aftermarket TCM/TCU that has everything you need. I'd rather "sell" as a custom service to build these. The PIC setup is very reliable and has been in my personal car for 6 years. There is no reason to believe Ardunio (ATMEL micro-controller) would be any less reliable, so you could try making one without too much concern.
Would you still sell a version of your original controller? I think I saw a peek of it in one of your other videos. It is purely a manual up/down shift with a single number readout. I have a 92 work truck with a dying 4l60 and a good 4l60e from a wrecked 96 that I bought not knowing the difference. I'm pretty mechanically and electronically enclined, I just failed to do adequate research before I bought this trans.
I always wondered what it looked like from the window of a lambo, Ferrari, vette, rustang, camero..... you know, all the cars that the Buicks have romped over the last three decades. And just as I thought, nothing but Regal tail lights! I still find it amusing there are exotic car owners out there who still think they can outrun a Turbo Buick. Good luck!
+killving The arduino starter kit can handle pretty much any logic you need for a <any> transmission. The question regarding the ford tranny is really a matter of looking up the solenoid sequencing for gears. From this document: www.trucktransdiag.com/downloads/4r70w_technical_information.pdf the answer is yes...this is the same solenoid sequence as the GM THM 4L80E transmission.
Ok, first of all who thought the GN was stock? You are drunk, go home... Secondly it looks like the guys in the Lambo spent all of their money on the car but ran out when it came time to buy a decent camera.
Here's a very recent record set by a GN, but first here is the discussion link: www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/world-record-pass.419750/page-2#post-3480026 Here is the video: Dusty Bradford Radial Fest 4.26
Guys, go to the link about the video for more details. For the record, yes a GN can go 0-60 in 3.2. This isn't a stock GN. This was an adhoc race and no it was not from a dead stop. Its cool to see a legend properly modified out run a 6 digit priced car. Yes the Lambo can go overall faster and handle corners and blah blah blah, but that GN is quicker. Here is the link again read for yourselves. www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/gn-vs-lamborghini-murcielago-gn-6-lambo-0.418620/#post-3468580
If modified any car can do 0-60 really fast. GN's are one of my top cars but stock they weren't that fast. The GNX was fast for its time and is still decent today compared to others in the quarter. T-type wasn't fast.
GNX was THE fastest car in America in 87. It made 276 hp and 360 ft lbs and ran low 13s. GN and T-Type were right behind it and made 245 hp, 355 ft lbs and ran high 13s And yes, earlier T-types and GNs were slower, they ran low 15s. The 84-85 cars were hot air cars and made about 200 hp, 300 ft lbs. Earlier Turbo Regals were carbed and were pretty slow
+EGGINFOOLS The T-Type is the exact same car as the GN and even considered faster due to aluminum drums, aluminum wheels and aluminum bumper supports.. but that's non of my business.. because what do I know it's not like I own a T-Type (TurboT for 87)
