Welcome to Jardin Autoworks! If you are a fan of vehicles like I am, you have come to the right place. Whether you are looking for an automotive DYI channel, ideas to modify your vehicle, or are searching for fabrication ideas to enhance the functionallity of your vehicle I hope to provide you tips, tricks, and inspiration to work on your cars and projects as I build, modify/restore and test my daily drivers, my sandrails, my 4x4's. I look forward to hearing from you too!
If you are going to do what I do, do it at your own risk. Please, when you do what you do, please do it safely. No project is worth getting hurt!
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@@jardinautoworks I've been using spark plug boots for all kinds of things, such as temporarily joining two pieces of rubber hose together. I never thought of this obvious use though, kinda embarrassing...
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 That's awesome! I had not though of using the boot to maybe connect two vaccuum hoses, but I can definately see it. Thanks for the ideas.
Remember when the factory cam gear teeth were nylon and let go right about 100k miles? My 1st sbc timing set replacement I set the two dots together and she fired right up, lol, the distributor had never been touched or moved from factory position and never was, aside from points cap and rotor. I probably didn't even have the cap off, otherwise I'd have noticed the rotor was 180* out in that position. The good 'ol days!
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I do remember those days 😁 When I got my first Chevy truck, '70 C10, I did my first timing chain, aligned the dots and followed the Chilton Manual to the "T". As a newbie, I was so proud of myself. THEN, I tried to start the truck and spent 2 days trying to figure out what I did wrong. Luckily, my mechanic cousin came out to help me. I told him what I did, he pulled the distributor cap and showed me what was happening. It took about 10 minutes to fix. Yes, the good 'ol days 😁
@@jardinautoworks This was my 1st sbc timing chain, just set the two dots together like a lawnmower engine. I didn't know to set them both at 12:00 position or maybe I thought Chiltons had it backward. Glad I didn't do that (50:50 chance of being 180* out either way), lol, Chiltons was wrong and I was right, lolrofl!
My '73 Ford tails and instrument were powered through the headlight switch, same for our 71, a failed headlight switch is ofen the problem. Pretty sure my 1990 B2 and my newer 94/95 are powered the same way. Great video!
No, not that I am aware of. All of the structure needed to allow the seat track to slide freely forward is built into the ranger/explorer seat tracks. From my observation, it would require fabrication and heavy modification to the existing track mechanism. My opinion, it is not worth the effort and time, when there are seat tracks availble that will bolt right in to your project. Let us know how you come out on your project. I'm interested. I really apprecation the question and your engagement. Thank you very much for watching!
@@jardinautoworks my '90 b2 has the 60/40 bench and the drivers side limit renders rear seat entry impossible. Right now I'm searching for the ecm location because I want to replace the capacitors. I've owned this thing near 30 years and there's still things I need to figure out, lol.
For anyone that has a 2010. My temp sensor had a different type rubber o ring. I thought the new one didnt work, and tried to reuse my o-ring. DONT DO THAT. Use the O ring that came with the housing. It will work.
Thanks for the video brother.... Def helps. What are the torque settings for the nuts or did you mean the specifications come from the strut manufacturer and not from Dodge?
@@jimshadynz1707 The torque specs were from the Hayes automotive repair manual for that car. So I suspect that the torque specs are similar to the specs found in the Dodge service manual.
Great Video! Very informative! Actually shows you how to do the job & gives you the info you need! Fantastic!!!! Actually a real 'How to' video I it's fantastic. Thank You. Seriously, thank you!
I am glad that you found this video helpful. Thank you for watching. I appreciate it. Did your removal and installation go well? Any issues? Anything I can do different in the video? I am interested.
I changed radiator hose upper and lower, ran ok for about 20mins then started cutting off white smoke out the back and battery died I’m kind of confused on what to do next.
Try changing your thermostat the hoses really won’t go bad unless you can visibly see a leak or cracking in them which is pretty rare . He was checking the heat to see what thermostat he should replace…
@@KareemKareem-tt6gq I honestly don’t know 🤦🏽♂️ it takes really long to crank and when it does it shoots up to the H really fast and even sometimes smokes.
@@victorotero3244 Sorry for the delay. Hopefully you got what you needed. But for stuck o'rings you might try using a small pick set to try and get behind/underneath the seal. Let me know how you removed the seal. I am interested to hear about your solution. Thank you very much for watching. Hopefully the video was helpful.
Yes, great question. Explorer and Mazda Navajo seat tracks through 1994 will interchange with the bronco II and ranger pickups. Thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for the comments. You are right. Much of the stuff I took out was so that I could get a better camera shot. But with the size of my hands and arms I thought it was a little easier to get into the places I needed to get to 😁 Thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it.
The o'rings will go on the metal coolant tube at the back of the motor @ 12:09 and the coolant temperature sensor @ 13:06. Make sure that your housing has all of the seals in their respective positions, there is a seal on the housing for a water port and the thermostat with its seal. The thermostat and water port seals rest against the cylinder head and the oring seals the water port in the thermostat housing assembly. Good luck with your project. Thank you very much for watching my video. Let me know how you come out. I'm interested.
Great video and super informative I just discovered my 2013 is leaking. I have one question did you reuse your thermostats or replace them? Also the coolant tube O ring at 12:38 was that included in you Thermostat housing purchase or did you have to order that ring separate?
I replaced them. While you have the housing apart there is no easier time:) Thank you very much for watching. Good luck on your project. Let me know how you come out. I'm interested.
Thank you for your comment. I did not have a vapor lock, or any symptoms of that after the job. With the vehicle on a slight incline with the nose of the car higher than the rear, I filled the radiator full, filled the reservoir to the proper level, placed my hand over the radiator opening to create a seal, squeezed and released the upper radiator hose several times letting the trapped air enter the reservoir then pulling coolant back into the system until it was just coolant being pushed to, and pulled from the reservoir. Once completed, I replaced the radiator cap and filled the reservoir back to proper level, THEN started the car and let it warm up. Thank you very much for watching my video, I really appreciate it.
I changed it myself. It took about 45 minutes and that's only because I had some difficulty getting the hoses off. 🤦🏾♀️🤣. Other than that, it was so easy. By the way, I learned the hard way that you don't have to remove the filter box bolts. Just put the box up and it should come out.
I am very sorry about that. Hopefully, everything comes out ok. Does the $500 include the labor, housing, new o'rings (of course), both the primary and secondary thermostat and the temperature sensor? Sorry, I am just interested in what you get at that price. What kind of warranty do they give you? Good luck to you my friend. Thank you very much for your comment and watching my video. I really appreciate it!
Sorry for the delay. Thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it. Good luck with your project. The car is a 2012 Dodge Avenger SXT 2.4. The struts are from Autozone. Fronts (Right & Left): Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS34-84931L = $147.99 Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS34-84931R = $147.99 Rear strut (2x): Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS33-81042B = $132.99 ea.
Sorry for the delay. At 12:33 in the video I start putting the thermostat housing assembly back together and the o-rings and seals are talked about. There is an o-ring seal on the coolant tube on the rear of the motor, there is a seal that should be seated in a groove on the housing assembly (this seals the water port on the cylinder head), and then the thermostat should have its seal around the edge of the thermostat. The thermostat should be seated fully into the housing assembly. If you have all of those seals and o-rings in place, make sure all your mounting bolts are tight (torqued to manufacturers specs). If all of that is ok, unfortunately you need to look at the housing for cracks in the plastic. Hopefully, this is an easy fix for you and it is not the housing assembly. Good luck my friend. Let me know what you find when you do the job. If you have already done it, what did you find as the issue? Thank you very much for watching my video! I really appreciate it.
Mine will reach almost operational temperature while driving some times it holds but most time it doesn’t too hose was hot bottom cold and no matter how much I fill the tank it’s always low but it’s not leaking out and it bubbles back into the res sometimes when running mostly when I turn it off
Very sorry for the delay. Please be aware that this system does have two thermostats. One is shown clearly in the video, the other one is already installed in the housing as a part of the purchased assembly. So, heads up the 2nd thermostat is where the lower radiator hose attaches to the thermostat assembly. Drain fluid, remove the 2 mounting bolts for the thermostat housing and remove the themostat. Pay attention to the thermostat the parts house will sell you. There is a difference between the two. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iwdtTLM9IFw.html&lc=UgxqG2yxFmvR89d15IJ4AaABAg
Thank you for your comments. I did start with the radiator petcock. After my experience in making a mess, as you saw, it appears that there was something blocking the drain. Because, when I loosened the petcock coolant was free flow so I let it drain till it slowed then re-tightened the petcock so that I would not forget to do it later. Evidently, it only drained 1/2 the radiator. Therefore, the mess when pulling the lower radiator hose. Thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it.
You can just replace the seals and thermostats. Make sure to inspect the plastic housing for cracks. I replaced the entire housing because the housing came with the seals and thermostats and my customer was moving to another state where I could not fix it if something went wrong. It was also cost effective for me. If you have time and you are scheduling a weekend to work on your car, check the autoparts websites. I saw good deals that may make it worth your while as well. Good luck. Let me know how you come out. Did you do just the seals, or did you replace the entire unit? Thank you for watching! I really appreciate it.
good video, I been having leaks thought it was the small thermosatt that the rubber seal did not seem good enough on to the block, bu come to find out it looks like its the housing itself, the whole unit is just warped slightly and im just going to replace it all with new thermostats and also the rubber seal in the back, the petrolium jelly will not hurt it in the long run??
This kind of thing make's me mad .. ANY mechanic worth his salt knows exactly what to check long before you dig deep into your pockets .. You cannot expect someone else to tell you .. ..
As a mechanic, I can appreciate that. I think my thing was that I had built what I thought was a good relationship with the junkyard man through prior experiences and purchases with this same individual. I got burned big time and I let him know. Thank you very much for your comment. And, thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it.
You are right! :) It is the wrong blue and that should have tipped me off, but it was the right price, I thought I could trust the junkyard man because of my previous experience, and it was the right motor to go in my vehicle. This experience really stung me in the trust department, though! ;)
@@jeffhill3681 I have had those experiences myself. And in my case, since the motor was guaranteed to run I was able to get my money back. Hopefully you are, or were, able to do the same. Unfortunately for me, there were no guarantees, the junkyard man said that he heard it run. 😞
great video! Thank you! I'll be doing this project on my 2014 this weekend, I have solid confidence to do it now. One question, is a front end alignment needed after replacing the struts?
Thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it. I would recommend getting an alignment after the job - it's good practice - just to make sure you go down the road straight and not cause undue wear on the tires, but just to replace the struts, it's not necessary. There are no alignment adjustments on the strut itself. Let me know how you did...if you had any issues or if you found anything I should have done differently. I'm interested.
I’m having an over heating issue with my 13 avenger. Changed the housing both thermostats water pump and it’s still over heating. Noticed that the coolant isn’t going through the radiator hose though it’s building really bad pressure in that area which makes me believe it’s a block possibly I can’t figure it out
Some questions: Which radiator hose is the coolant not making it through, the upper or lower rad hose? Are you noticing a lot of steam/smoke from the tailpipe? If so, does it have a bitter-sweet smell to it? Have you checked your oil since you noticed the issue, is there moisture on the dipstick or is the oil a milky brown? These are questions designed to determine a head gasket failure, or worse...cracked head or block. If none of that is going on... When the car heats up, do you hear your electric fan come on? No? Check for power at the fan. Check cooling fan relay. Check temperature switch for cooling fan. I know it can be messy, but have you tried removing the upper rad hose from the thermostat assembly housing, sticking a garden hose in that open end of the rad hose and seeing if you can get water/coolant to come out of the system? Let me know what you find and how you diagnosed it. I am interested. Thank you very much for watching my video. I really appreciate it.
@@jardinautoworks the hose actually where the radiator cap is at there is steam. There is no smoke coming from my tailpipe I checked that first lol. My oil is not mixing either.
@@Leeofficial420 Interesting case. I am sorry the problem is not obvious. Time to do some more diagnostic digging. You may want to rent or invest in a block tester to see if you are getting combustion gasses into your cooling system. If you go to the Harbor Freight website and type in 'Block Tester' you will find the testing tool and its associated fluid. However, your local parts house may have this tool to rent, you would just buy the fluid. The Harbor Freight tool is a Maddox Combustion Leak Detector $27.99 and its associated Combustion Leak Detector Fluid at $9.99. If you are getting combusion gasses into your cooling system the test fluid will change color. If that happens, head gasket or, cylinder head issue or, engine block issue. Please let me know what you find. I am interested. Others in the thread may be interested as well. Thank you for the update.
Hey! Sorry it took so long for the update so.... ps don't laugh 😂 I did give up for a second I was frustrated BUUUT I went back over everything and come to find out the OUTLET thermostat was faulty Rip to my reducer that broke in the process lol! I did a coolant flush through everything after redoing over the housing to get any air/clogs out
This video is greatly appreciated. I’ve been having overheating for a lil while in and off I don’t know what the problem is I don’t see any leaks. I’m assuming it’s gotta be something with the thermostat I had it changed back in November n it overheated in March got it checked they said nothing was wrong just needed a gallon and a half of coolant. But it’s overheating again ima have to do it myself
Which thermostat did you replace? Primary (housing at the of the end of the lower radiator hose) or secondary (under thermostat housing assembly against cylinder head)? Did you find the issue? What did you find? I'm interested. Thank you very much for watching my video! I really appreciate it.
@@DeeFolarin410 Yeah you probably replaced the primary thermostat located on the outer thermostat housing assembly where the lower radiator hose connects. Let me know when you find the issue. I am interested.
Thank you for watching. In my case I was trying to diagnose whether the thermostat was working or not. So the test I did showed that the primary thermostat wasn't working. Do you have an overheating issue? What are you finding? Let me know, I'm interested.
