How do you know how to set the top hat in the right direction? I tried installing today and I got everything right up until I screwed the top hat back into the top and when to Install the sway bar back and the bracket wasn’t in the same spot as before
good video! just got mine today such an easy install and it really makes the car feel much newer. Remote Bimmer customer service was on point with their communication! Installed it on 2015 4 series
There is no Mac solenoid it’s a special boost solenoid borrowed from a Volvo that is run off brake booster vacuum because n55 does not make vacuum on the manifold
I have 2014 F33 MSport. Did you loose your original factory navigation with this upgrade? I know carplay has multiple navigation apps, but was just wondering (I like the navigation turn by turn directions in my HUD or will carplay do the same). Also, does carplay music songs etc. show up in HUD like factory stations/SiriusXM? What else did you loose due to the upgrade (i.e. steering wheel controls, voice commands, log press siri commands/messaging)?
I didn’t have navigation but you should keep and retain all factory setting get a hold of the seller and check with them but you will need it coded for your vin through seller or a coder
Did you just rip the sensor out of the inside of the brake piece I’m changing mine and not sure how to get it out lol should I just rip since it’s going in a new place
I am asking you because I also upgraded from NBT to NBT Evo and I’m getting some errors with the head unit and also it doesn’t let me access the head unit with BimmerCode. did you try to code with BimmerCode thank you
Hey, I have a question about the wiring here. I was told by fuel-it that the red trigger wire, that you have hooked up to the Hobbs switch, needs to be hooked up to 12v power. I just finished the install and whenever my car is running, the pump is running/LED is illuminated. Are the red/black wires you have connected to the Hobbs switch two separate wires?
@@BOO5Tchannel thanks for the reply. I have the same hobbs switch as you, one of the ports on the hobbs is connected to ground. my question is about the trigger wires
Right now, I have the red trigger wire hooked up to 12v, and the black one hooked up to the hobbs switch. Is this the correct way to do it, or should I have both trigger wires connected to one port on the hobbs?
I'm wondering if I have it setup incorrectly, because right now as soon as I turn the car on I hear the 525 going and my LED lights up, even just at idle without any boost
Hey, I followed this and I can hear the pump turn on and everything when jumping the hobbs switch, but my remote tuner says secondary pump isn’t turning on. Is there anyway to know for sure? I hooked up an led light like you did and it also turns on when jumped.
@@BOO5Tchannel yes I can hear it. I guess I should open it to check my connections in case a hose came loose. I did the install awhile ago but didn’t get an e85 tune until recently.
@@BOO5Tchannel so I checked wiring and removed the lpfp today and there’s nothing obvious that could be wrong. Only thing I noticed from your wiring that’s different is the white relay wire goes directly to the +12v battery but Fuel It has it going to the DME 12v “trigger”, is what they call it. Not sure if that would be a potential issue.
@@BOO5Tchannel I have it, but the LED light does not work. I need an operating panel. I have lamps. Do you know which ones are sold? I did not find them on any site. Or send me a picture of them. Thank you for your response.
Can’t remember but it’s stock fitment clearance like +35 18x8.5 or so check fitment industries for good fitment photos and they share sizes and offsets
@@JustLuuchi lpfp, hpfp, port injection in some cases, intercooler, down pipes, etc just do research if you want to go bigger turbos that how it goes. Everyone thinks it’s just plug and play but it’s not even close
Hi Chris, thank you for your video. Great job on the installation of the cabinets. I will be purchasing mine in the next couple of weeks. Great idea on the blocks. If I could recommend you should paint the blocks black.
Did these on my car and learned SOME E82s needa have em programmed; my car was one of em haha. I threw em in plug n play as is, & they didnt illuminate my buddy coded them and $70 later we got em to work😅💪 fyi for some of yall!!
cool video, shouldn't the new brake system be coded to the car so that the car and the cruise control were told that a bigger brake kit has been added?💪🏼💪🏼
thank you i needed this, i had the single piston brake booster delete installed but im putting the booster back on, just wasnt sure how the lines go with the oem master
Honestly all these intakes are similar, on dyno you get most hp gain from open intakes with no filters however on normal driving you benefit more from stock intake box
Hey man great video I had a quick question does the o ring concept apply to a stock turbo as well? My friend and I installed this same bov and it was code less for a good month or two but now it just pops up “ 122108 - Blow-off valve: Clamped closed.” Any help would be appreciated!
Wish I could help but I have no idea… check electrical connection to bov is best I can say. Check with your tuner if it’s a custom tune they can usually diagnose
@@BOO5Tchannel still on a ots map unfortunately.. I’ll let my friend know about that electrical connection your talking about. Have you ever heard anyone have any issues with this bov on a stock turbo ?
@@1Mean_F30 anytime you introduce a part such as a bov on a car that needs a electrical pressure switch you can have issues. Sometimes staying stock on stock turbo n55 is better… you don’t get any benefit from a bov unless you go bigger turbo
first i want to thank you so much for this video ... i just finished putting the lowering springs on my 440i and this was the best video to help me through it... For FYI if you dont have the strut seperator you can use a 3/8 to a 1/4 drive save a couple bucks.... thank you again!!
I got this for my car and made it look so much newer. The first set one side filled with water. The second set I noticed the foam in the back had shifted crooked. I pulled at them a bit and lined them up perfect on both and no problems. I would love to upgrade the front to LCI but damn that is expensive. I just replaced all the bulbs new and will leave them alone. I would rather put that money to a LSD.
@@BOO5Tchannel I found the blacklines were reasonable. $400 from ECS and had to wait a few months from Germany. The front oem LCI from Bayoptiks are up there in price. I have seen some cool clear corner ones from Europe that are cheaper. I will grab them one day. Just did the transmission seal and a ton of other maintenance, so I'm on hold for a minute. Cheers for the vids!
Thanks for all the great information!!! The Word on the street is that you may be doing a 1M clone?!!! if this is the case can you kindly detail how to install the rear flares, and how they interact with the new 1m wheel liner🍺🚀
Yes I already finished and the 1m liner fits perfectly. Thicwhips made a video on us doing his and there is another guy can’t remember his name that has a step by step video on here
@@BOO5Tchannel thanks for getting back to me and yes, I have seen the video of you and TW chopping up his car, but I haven’t seen any videos of the liner being fitted in… I’m guessing you don’t secured in with any hardware around the fibreglass flare area?? only deeper into the wheel well where there are metal anchor points? Thank again.
I didn’t skip a single loop. I guess that’s why I needed like 4 hours than the 2 hours in the manual. Mine isn’t perfect either, but it sits well and feels good.
