The video is helpful but it would be nice if they specified which screws were to be used at some of the steps. The written instructions don't clarify either. Step 8: Fasten Bumper. OK, which of the 4 screw types is to be used? Step 9: Fasten door plates. OK, which of the 4 screw types are to be used?
Installed this kit today with a 36" door. Went very straightforward. However there seems to be little lateral strength in the pocket area where the two steel studs are located. The wall is not shaky, since it is attached to the floor, but the steel studs do have a little flex to them for sure.
For the 1500 series frame there is wood that goes across the entire top. Then half of the header has wood on the sides too (that is the passage side). For a door that is 30" (2/6) wide, the side member sides will be 31" wide and the complete header will be 61" long.
These mirrored doors are impossible for one person to hang by himself. Even with a second person we were unable to hang 3 hours at it and I've had enough. Will return to box store.
My experience with purchasing the 1500 series and installation was outstanding. While I did order online I had had a couple of questions first. I contacted Johnson. They were very helpful. The videos on RU-vid were excellent for installation. The doors were packaged very well so they were not destroyed during the shipping process.
How many people ruin their kit because they think 2/8 is 28”. What’s the reasoning for the really confusing markings? Why not just make everything in inches?
If you actually have a 28" wide door and accidentally order the frame for a door that is 32" (2/8), you can cut it down to work for your door. You can always go smaller, you just can never go bigger. If you look at the last page of the installation instructions, it is step by step cutting instructions. Then look at the section right under Step 6 for how to mark and cut for "an unmarked size". When ordering the frame it is marked under the description for what the size of the door the frame is made for, and on the cutting instructions page right above the "nailer board" picture it is also marked for the sizing. It says 2/8 = 32", 2/6 = 30", 2/4 = 28", and 2/0 = 24".
@@saragardner1483 Yes, I realize it has that in the instructions, but when looking at the hardware it's confusing. And I just got my pocket door and now they don't mark them like that anymore. Mine have 3|4" and 3|2" and 2|8" and 2|4". And those are inches...meaning 3|2" is actually 32 inches but my instructions that came with the door still have the old markings like you listed. So 2/4 is 28 inches, but 2|4" is 24 inches.
Johnson has not changed their markings. Johnson frames for a 2’6” and 3’ doors are marked , but the frames for a 2’, 2’4”, and 2’8” are not marked. You just look at the section right under step 6 to tell you how to mark the header and cut for an unmarked size (last page of installation instructions). You said yours has 3/4” (and other size) markings, that must not be on the Johnson frame. The markings being 2/0, 2/4, 2/6, and 2/8 have always been the same since 1959. For the frames it has always been marked feet/inches because that is how contractors refer to the doors. Are you sure the 2/4” is 24” and not 2’4”? The “/“ is always meaning feet/inches with any contractor or door company or hardware store I have ever talked to.
@@saragardner1483 Well, I don't know what to say. I bought the door from another company that included the pocket door hardware with Johnson instructions. So maybe that company remarks it the way they wanted, but still used Johnson instructions. And the markings on mine don't have a slash, but a pipe symbol...2|4" and that's definitely 24 inches and not 2 ft 4 in. But I have bought and installed Johnson hardware in the past and back then they had the slashes printed.
@@jonmhayden Those 2/4 and 3/2 etc., are 2ft/4 inches and 3ft/2 inches respectively. So the door would be 28 inches and 38 inches respectively. Why do they do this? Who knows, but it is a common ordeal.
Yes, but do you have an installation video, because the instructions that come with the kit I bought from you guys, is insane. Please make an installation video.
0:44 Is 100 series track ised on a variety of pocket door frame kits? Because when you read the instructions, it refers to other series such as the 100, 1500, etc. this part of the video made me get up and go double check that the soft clothes was compatible with my 1500 HD frame. This part of the video might confuse others.
The 100 track is what the 1060 works in. But the 1500 (1500PF, 1500HD, and 1500SC series) series is the full pocket door frame that uses the 100 track. So if you are looking at the instructions it lists 100PD (that is the track and hardware by itself without the frame), the 1500 (full frame for 2x4 wall that uses the 100 track), 1560 (full frame for 2x6 wall that uses the 100 track), and 1562 (full frame 2 doors going into 1 pocket for 2x6 wall that uses the 100 track).
To begin, thanks to all who have commented on their experience with the Johnson Hardware product and the installation process. Reading through the comments was as valuable as watching the installation video. First, after installing my first door ( 29.5" in a 30" opening) and taking my time doing so, I conclude that I like the product and appreciate the engineering. Too be fair, two sets of hands for heavy /solid core doors helps prevent carpenter frustration during the install as distinguished from any frustration with hardware. Here are my insights: Step 1-HEADER: Once I learned that this is a "hanging system" I reinforced my header by sliding in some shims and /or 3/4" blocks between the jam-header and the rough header. Furthermore, the track screws (count your number of holes and then find that number in the bag) were longer than my 3/4 jam thickness, and so I feared they would bend the jam-header out of level as they bit into the rough header. Then when installing the track take care to position it leaving as much of an equal gap on both sides. Mine shifted, so on the pivot end I moved the pivot-lock device over just a tad by loosening the brass screw. By the way , "Pivot Door" = the hinge side in regular door installations. "Guide Door" (gets the white plastic bracket) is the one on the opening end. Step 3--MOUNTING THE HARDWARE / PIVOT BRACKETS ON THE DOOR: Using a 4" Double Square / combination square is a proper tool for this step 3. The video is good at showing the measurements for each, BUT also use the square to position it in the center with equal space above and below. Be consistent here on all three brackets. Also, before installing the pivot bracket, be sure it is on the desired side. Because I needed the pivot to be on the right-hand side, I needed to install it on the opposite side of the one shown in the video (they used a left-side pivot). Then check the orientation of the hinges if you have received partially pre-assembled doors. My hinges came oriented for a left-hand pivot, so I had to reorient them to a right-pivot position. Johnston makes this easy as the holes align perfectly. Go slowly and gently so as not to strip the screw-holes. Finally, for Step 4--Installing the bottom guide bracket (4:41) the video seems to show the tape measure extending from the track, not the header. Be more careful than I was and measure from the actual bottom of the header (above the track) so as to get an accurate measurement below to reflect the actual height of the door. One more point, but on an aesthetic detail mentioned at the end of the video. I like the idea of covering the track with some wood trim. One, strengthening the track for this "hanging technology" is a good idea. But let a bifold be a bifold. Avoid adjusting header height by bringing down the casing and ruining the lines of the room. Instead, installing a 5/8 piece of trim against the track in that 3/4 gap provides a nice reveal in relation to the jam-header instead of trying to be a new one.
If the top guide just sits against the outside of the track opening, and if the pivot pin retainer is not meant to touch and therefore hold up the bottom of the door, how is the door hanging solely by the top pivot lock? Instructions written for products coming out of Asia have more intelligible instructions.
The 1705 guide (on 2nd panel) sits inside of the track, I am not sure what you mean by "sits against outside of track opening"? Go to Step 3 (minutes 3:26) that describes how to attach top pivot/guide/bottom pivot on panels. Then go to Step 5 (minute 5:25) that shows you how to hang doors and how the guide/ top pivot/bottom pivot go into position. That shows how the all of the weight is held by the top pivot going into the the pivot lock itself. At minute 6:36 it will show you how to put the bottom pivot into the bottom pivot bracket. The bottom pivot/bracket and 1705 guide simply guide the doors, all of the weight is held from the top pivot/pivot lock on 1st panel. If you watch the video from beginning to end it explains everything with pictures.
I hope u guys go to hell for making’s such a cheap plastic bendable iron base. What’s the purpose of the bottom bifold pivot if all it’s going to do is get the adjustment screw every time you turn the 🚪 door I should sue you guys for making a defective product
Just finished installing 2 four door sets. The supplied instructions were adequate but the video definitely helped. One error on the supplied instructions...it shows the knobs being installed on the wrong door. I should be at the hinge location, not the outer door edge. Learned the hard way. I now have 4 holes to try patch! Video shows the correct location.
Should the additional 2 inches of vertical finish height be measured from the finished floor i.e. measured from top of carpet? Or should it be measured from the bare subfloor?
This is a wonderful drill press table. Three comments: It's nearly impossible to hold down t-tracks with 1/2 inch #6 screws, forget the removable top, the plans are 30 plus pages. Please change it to four panels per page, I suggest using cam levers for the fence. Reduce the fence height to 2.25".
how do you get it back on the track after the bolt comes out of the door plate and there is trim covering the space used in the video to simply push it in?
Step 10 of the instructions tell you to screw in the finish jamb for the clip side of the door plates (at the top). The frame even comes with 3 screws to do that. To take the door down, put the door back up, or adjust you would need to take that side of the finished jamb down to reach.
As many others have commented, the printed instructions are about as helpful as a screen door on a submarine. The step-by-step instructions on the video were an absolute lifesaver!
Buyer beware. If you purchase directly from this company, they do not include all the parts and if you don't contact them within 48 hours after purchase to report it, they will not send the missing parts and will question your integrity.
Buyer beware. If you purchase directly from this company, they do not include all the parts and if you don't contact them within 48 hours after purchase to report it, they will not send the missing parts and will question your integrity.
Buyer beware. If you purchase directly from this company, they do not include all the parts and if you don't contact them within 48 hours after purchase to report it, they will not send the missing parts and will question your integrity.
What parts were missing? If it is small parts they would be sent out, but if they are large parts (like the track or steel split studs) then they have to stick with the 48hr limit that they tell you before delivery.
@saragardner1483 Ummmm...they were clips. Really small parts, so Sara if you're an employee of the company, then two things. #1 you replied 7 months too late #2 you need to talk to all customer service reps AND management, because both refused to replace tiny, mini, C-L-I-P-S. But, if you're just a customer, you shouldn't be supportive of a company that has failed another customer so miserably or chime in on another customer's experience.
Buyer beware. If you purchase directly from this company, they do not include all the parts and if you don't contact them within 48 hours after purchase to report it, they will not send the missing parts and will question your integrity.
Buyer beware. If you purchase directly from this company, they do not include all the parts and if you don't contact them within 48 hours after purchase to report it, they will not send the missing parts and will question your integrity.
Buyer beware. If you purchase directly from this company, they do not include all the parts and if you don't contact them within 48 hours after purchase to report it, they will not send the missing parts and will question your integrity.
What did you go with? My guess....finished floor. That said, an illustration in the instructions appears to show the subfloor (ie arrow points to the bottom of the bottom plate).
The rough opening is from the subfloor up to the header of the home. On the drawing in the instructions on Step 10 shows that the 4-1/2" is from subfloor up, and on Step 2 it tells you to measure from finished floor or subfloor (depending on the type of floor you are installing the frame on) to put in a screw to attach the end brackets of the header to.
I'm struggling with the placement of the hinges. Does it point towards the wall or towards the center? I have 4 panels in a 60" opening @johnsonhardware
A door that is 2'10" (34") is not a standard width. There are a few doors out there that are 34", but not enough to specifically make a frame for that size of door. You would just order the frame for a door that is 36" wide and cut the header down to work for a door that is 34". Make sure to look at the section right under Step 6 (on the cutting instructions) that tell you how to mark and cut for an unmarked size.
You want the center (where the 2 headers come together) to be flush against each other. If you did not cut 7/8" off each header, then the side members of wood stick out more than the center wood of the headers (look at minute 2:38). It will not be too short for converging doors. The reason the rough opening for a single door is 2x door width + 1" is to give you space for your finished jamb to go up. But for converging doors, the 2 doors are meeting each other in the middle (not a wood jamb), so you no longer have to add the 1". That is why the rough opening now is 4x door width.
I bought a house with these doors. Pretty difficult to replace them...but thats probably why its a 3d model. What I found helpful is to loosen the bolt on the upper portion, put the door into it and then move the door&upper portion together to get it into the bottom. Then retighten bolt.
