Excellent vid. At least when you don’t send now you can console yourself by creating a great video and hyping up the eventual send. Man, so many movements have to go right to send this thing. I wonder how this compares to other NS problems at this grade for number of movements?
Making the video actually did help accept the season being over. This is one of the most nuanced lines in NS without a doubt. Compared with rest of the lines at Owl's house it's like chess vs checkers.
Excellent vid. At least when you don’t send now you can console yourself by creating a great video and hyping up the eventual send. Man, so many movements have to go right to send this thing. I wonder how this compares to other NS problems at this grade for number of movements?
how does your warm up process (i.e. rehearsing the top) change if the crux of the boulder is near the top? i have a project where the third to last move is the crux, and is preceded by 8 or so hard hand moves. would love your insight. thanks! :)
I would warm up lightly on an easier section, then use a rope so that I could rehearse the the crux section without getting pumped. How large of a section to rehearse would depend on how hard the crux. If the crux is very hard, I would just do the single move once or twice. This is more like the case on a short problem. Once I've done all the peices and I'm feeling strong (usually ~30-45 mins of warmup time including rests), rest 15 - 20 mins and then sit down for a send go.
my dad passed away in August of 2023. every day since, i have experienced an acute awareness that tomorrow is not promised. it makes me want to send that much more. love your vids. take care man. hope to see you send this in the fall 💛
This is way more meaningful a response than a send video. Thanks for sharing. I feel the same as you, and always look for gratitude in the moment I am given. I'm glad that came through in the video.
So cool! Good luck with it in the fall! Here it is mostly sandstone climbing and there are some 12 degree mornings, so I still have hopes for my project, before the summer hits us.
Thanks! Hopefully your proj goes! Summer difficuly ramps slower on edges. Issue on granite is crystals just pull through warm skin no matter how strong your grips.
Love my Lems! They are essentially outdoor slippers. So comfy. Gotta compensate for the foot abuse of climbing shoes. Also great for boulder development - so grippy walking around on top slabs.
so much for no pretators out there 😱🤯beautiful climb and brilliant closing lines (and geese-rap). hopefully your fingers look worse than they feel. time to regrow all the skin in pwace now🙃
Geese rap 🤣 I'm glad I captured the geese on camera. I played this video on our TV and my dogs were enthralled at the sounds. The real predator is Stella - in another million or so sessions, she will have all the flies delt with 😉 Summer sessions have their own charm, just hard letting go of the season.
still, tangible setting into perspective of things for certain or even any moments... so please don't die during summer sessions so you can be alive in the fall 😬
I loved your reflections on the beauty of outdoor climbing. I'm sat here watching with a fractured talus from a bad fall and what you said resonated. Great vid!
Thanks so much, I'm glad I could convey those feelings through video. Sorry to hear about your injury. Ben smith also broke an ankle, then went on to do Nova Scotia's hardest lines. I missed the last 2 spring seasons recovering from back to back surgeries. I found the harshness of outdoor climbing also motivating and increased my gratitude - which helped me recover faster. I hope it's the same for you!
Oh it is. Steep overhang, no holds, and a slope away landing. There's a reason Seb, a V13 climber, shimmied up it like a beached whale. We call that the terror scuttle.
First ascentionist Ben Smith left a comment with the exact quote regarding the pain levels on this climb. Even after manual approval youtube refuses to show it. I have added it to the mobeta topo, but for the youtube audience - I'll leave it up to your imagination.
Thanks! The best is Flextape. It's really expensive, but you can cut it into small pieces - only takes a small square. Duct tape is a cheaper alternative - T-Rex brand is the stickiest according to Project Farm.
No problem! Flex tape is aggressively sticky. I've been able to reuse if rock's not too dirty. Use scissors you don't care about, and clean them with acetone or goo gone. They gum up fast.
You've had your eye on this line for a while. I remember we talked about Splinter and Requiem 2 years ago in comments on another video. Road trip when?
perfectly built up landings using nice straight wood slats for perfect fall zones to keep them pretty ankles safe, and custom pads, ropes with protection, sinching mechanisms carefully assembled in nice straight lines for safety AND aesthetics. Everything thought out, analyzed, constructed to perfection, safe and clean af. Colours coordinated. Sooooo canadian.
I love you noticed the color coordinated pads - which are home made and indeed created to complement the color of the granite 😁 edit: also what I didn't show is the 1000lbs of loose rubble that was quarried and removed from the landing to make it level. We then used the resulting blocks to pave the landing under Grizzly.
I discussed with with first ascentionist. We will be interested to see a short climber try it. The opening is probably easier as you say, but the top crux might be an issue
Glad to hear it! My goal with VLOGS is to make bouldering more accessible in a different way besides the usual topos and beta vids on I put out. I love to see you guys out there getting after it on RU-vid! Nice work on Jabberwocky! Thumbnail is hilarious, and that approach is at least V5.
Really enjoy the style of your session videos. Unique, and much more in line with how I feel and think when I'm out there throwing myself at a rock. You capture the beauty of the process, the hyper-focus to detail on the abstract granite holds, and I'm honestly soaking in a lot of what you have to say as I consider my own process. Cool stylistic touches on the text animations, and made me chuckle on the knee-bar montage. Keep it up. Have fun out there. Enjoy the inevitable send.
Thanks so much, I appreciate the comment! My goal with the VLOG project is to try and capture what I love about bouldering and I'm glad that came through. Also, I said to my wife last evening that I didn't expect broad appeal for the kneebar meme from a 1995 James Bond film, but someone would get it - I love you appreciated it!
One of my favorite channels for sure, I’m constantly surprised by your tactics. In 13 years of bouldering all over the world I’ve never seen sun shades, heat guns, or this level of dedication. Psyched for more of this. I’m actually making a trip to Nova Scotia in September and your content has me stoked to check it out. Thanks for your hard work!
This comment made my day! This is exactly my motivation behind the VLOG project - share the unique bouldering culture that evolved in our tiny corner of the world. If you have any questions I can help with for September, get at me via email.
Glad to hear it! That's my main motivation. I've been putting out a free guidebook for 13 years which helps, but I'm trying to share what actually motivates me with these videos.
I remember my first 7a (V6?). It had a fantastic 2 finger pocket. But I just could not for the life of me hold on. Trained my right arm for that pocket for months before I managed it. A few weeks ago I tried it again before leaving a regular just for fun session and I stuck it like it was nothing. Crazy how much effort you can put into something which later becomes second nature
man these videos are unreal, some of these blocs are amazing. I live in Ireland, we have a very similar grainite so finding climbable blocs can be very frustrating also, altough we do have some very cool roof climbs.
Awesome! Glad I could share our beautiful blocs. Granite is frustrating, but I believe it's the main reason I'm still so engaged 20 years on. It reveals its secrets slowly.
Nope, but I can easily cover that in a future video. The setup everyone here uses for working boulders is GriGri, Ascender, and ++ rope protectors. Basically anything reasonable for an anchor. Key it to setup so it can't slide off the boulder - that's the part that takes most care. Full on rope style self belay doesn't work well for projecting boulders. We just pull slack as we go. If it's very overhanging, more complex setups are needed. I have a project coming up this summer that uses an extremely complex setup.
