Will be changing my current hobby knife to a Swan Morton now they certainly do look at lot better than most generic hobby knives. Great video on modelling tools 👍
@@nidge2822 Saw some sanding sticks by Infini premium hobbies sell them very similar to flory sanders will be picking up a set of those grits from 220 up to 4000 worth taking a look if your after some new sanders in the future
i honestly never used to prime until i started using more and more acrylic paints that are easily rubbed off on edges ect now i prime nearly all the time
Interesting video but...what a faff! I put pilots in all my aircraft; realistically posed [leaning out of windows, pointing, working overhead panels etc]. I never airbrush pilots. I never use primer. I use just cheap acrylic paints from Hobbycraft. Very easy to bring out creases, shaded parts and detail by quickly adding black / white or whatever to base colour. Tamiya weathering powders used to further highlight if required. Realistic faces are the most difficult part - 1/72 scale very difficult to paint actual detail so it is tonal variations which are used to give the impression of eyes, cheekbones, mouth and areas such as shaded line on head just below helmet etc. Great addition is to add radio leads and also boom microphone from earpiece to mouth on non fast jet type of aircraft. Pilots are 'a must' for me to to give life to a model. It gives you the chance to really show your creative and modelling skills. Cutting off heads and arms and repositioning is standard fare on just about every kit supplied pilot I have had. A really good, well painted pilot, leaning forward in his seat or body turned and looking out sideways, with seat belts realistically tight or loose as appropriate becomes the focus of a model. However, done badly, it is the ruination of all your work.
To all fellow modelers i came up with a great idea concerning kids and people touching my set up i have an old fashion roll top desk 5ft long and all i do when the young one come around is close the lid and bingo it play time the desk has draws on each side and there's lots of room on desk for paint racks and supplies for modeling
I like it. I'm a returning modeler after a 50 year gap, so tips like these are gold dust to me. I've ordered a box of Blu Tack and a couple of those paint pens too. I've also invested in a small portable ventilated paint booth so no masks needed.
Your videos are great and have really inspired me to get into modelling. Could I ask what do you thin down the Windsor Newton varnish with for your airbrush application? Thanks and keep up the videos..
think its more a polurethane a bit like tamiya certainly not acrylic and hates water as my airbrush found out the hard way and it took a lot of cleaning to get the gunk out
@@MrPDoff very true and I am seeing the difference with the Canadair sabre that I am doing as it comes with a decent pilot figure and internal guns and air brakes all visible if you want to do that It also comes with blanking plates for the engines for when it is stationary on the tarmac
Very entertaining video. I last built a kit about 50 years ago. I still have a few, mainly Frog and Airfix with a couple of Matchbox kits. All are 1/72 and most have the price labels on them, 29p with one at 21p! I had a teacher at school in Leeds who gave us, "Is there any RED PORT wine LEFT" which gave us the correct colours and positions of the navigation lights. I think you may have got yours wrong. Keep up the good work. Nigel
What a ridiculous statement. There's no rules that say all RU-vid modeling channels have to be aimed at very experienced builders. I'm sure he won't care if you don't subscribe; I know that I don't.
I look at it as if you like my content then subscribe to see more of similar stuff If you don't like it then fair enough don't subscribe And all scales in my view are valid for modelling Thanks for the comment fizzy
Revell's skill level is based on the number of parts inside the kit, whereas Airfix's are actually worked out on some kind of reasoning based on how hard they actually think it is going to be to build, for example: 1/48 Bristol Bulldog, 120 Parts, Skill level 3 1/48 De Havilland Vampire F3, 124 Parts, Skill level 2 The Vamp has more parts but is an "easier" kit. If you dig into their kits and their labelled skill levels it will become more noticeable that there is not a consistent part number = skill level relationship. On another note, I think you did a great job of your Tempest! I have the post-war version in the stash to do at some point but will probably just do it in the silver scheme
ahh thanks for reminding me of that pal about the skill level as i thought it was similar for airfix as revell glad you liked the build and hopefully will get to watch you do yours ps your brewster buffalo was a cracking build
There are 2 stand styles. The older stand style uses a slot while the newer one uses two pegs. Unfortunately they no longer sell the new stand style for some reason yet still design kits to ise them. They still sell the older stand style though for slots.
@@yorkshiremanmodels It probably was a recent purchase. The only stand set Airfix currently sells is set AF1008 which contains the clear plastic stands designed for slots. Kits such as the Tempest are designed for stand AF1006 which is a twin aircraft stand molded in black plastic which is no longer for sale. Interestingly when you look at the original instructions for the Typhoon 1B from 2016 up to 2022 the instructions reference this stand. When you look at the ones provided in the Airfix Club D-Day set they have altered the instructions to remove any mention of the stand which suggests that it was removed from sale around 2022.
I was hoping they'd do a run of five aircraft stands this year since they had the tooling out to do the D-Day fighter gift set but no such luck...at least so far.
What are your deciding factors on which color primer (white, gray or black) to use? And why? I’m taking a break from the tedium of trying to build wood ship models and want to try a few plastic kits for more immediate gratification.
i tend to look at what colour the kit is going to be if the overall colour is silver i will always go black primer if its a bright colour ie red or yellow i will try and do a grey primer for grey aircraft i tend to stick to black primer and then paint shade with white especially in center of panels all above is a good base to work from but if you only have 1 primer colour then go with that as it only helps a small amount having the right colour primer as the main job for primer is to give a good flat coat to spray onto that is very hardy and will accept all paints painted onto it
Enamels ( no brand, the ones you can buy at the paint shop) and brushes. It's 90% skills, 10% gear. I 've seen people using oils with a very nice outcome. For me, a well done weathering it really makes the difference.
cheers pal yea i have more weathering stuff ie pencils, pre made panel lines paint. ammo oilbrusher ect and i still go back time and time again to the cheap artist oils that you can mix any colour to gain multiple weathering effects
I`m a Badger airbrush user since the beginning of time using enamals. I bought two Fengda 183 and a Fengda 180 0.2 and 116C (trigger gun 0.3) primarily to learn how to strip down airbrushes whilst learning how to use modern acrylics. They all work much, much better if you polish the needles , Regdab the moving parts and use PTFE tape ( or beeswax) on the front end threads to stop the air leaks and to avoid overtightening which will wreck the soft brass threads over time. The rubber seals won`t tolerate solvents for long hence replacing them with the tape ( I`ve even taped the tiny needle nozzle). Replacement seals can be bought from Bartsharpe ( for the 183,116 & 180). I still have mine but have moved on to Gaahleri products. Interestingly the fengda trigger leaver and spring housing parts can be used on Gaahleri 39 and 98 airbrushes and are better quality. The paint cups are also interchangeable.. Cheers for the reviews ...have subscribed for more..
thanks for that info its very usefull to know some parts can be used on other brands and the beeswax is a great tip and been doing the same for donkeys years
honestly its hard to tell but i find if you put them under a light next to each other you can just about see which is the fatter one i always try and keep them in the tubes provided if possible and if they are going to be loose i put a bit of masking tape on them and write the size on it
I haven't looked back from Gaahleri since your review but that Fengda airbrush seems OK for general use. That compressor though, sounds like you're digging up Stairfoot roundabout. 😊
damn right it is and ive given it to my daughter to use and i can hear it from downstairs lol on another not both me and the daughter tried to see if it had a small air leak which may be why it runs so long but nope no leak so it must be the design
www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Acrylic-Varnish/dp/B001HJLB1A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&th=1 thats the smaller bottle and the bigger one is around 240ml
