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As a homeowner, I don’t have the tools or skill set to diagnose all of the things you mentioned. I do have a multimeter and can check the capacitor. If it’s bad, I’ll swap it and move on, saving hundreds of dollars. If it’s good, I’ll call a tech and pay. What’s wrong with that?
Threedog1963 This video has nothing to do with homeowners or what they want, or should try and fix themselves. My videos are for people in the HVAC industry, as the description states.
Heck no. When your capacitor is going out you need another motherboard. I would replace a few other things to make sure your motherboard is running as it should
fyi every thing u point out have nothing to do with the heat or cool not working right the only thing u need to do just get the zone dampers to work right that will be it what’s the return box will do if the have 16 inch flex going right to the back of the unit what deferent that box going to make also if they use the 24 volt of the air handler transformer or separate transformer longer or shorter flex u really need to work on ur technical skill before u go around post videos with false information also do u know why thy don’t have a bypass u actually don’t need a bypass in the variable speed air handler because you will always have a sensor it would read the static pressure just friendly advice do some more homework
FYI, you are either "special" or have zero understanding of airflow, psychometric, zoning, the list goes on. Just a general moron I guess. I can tell you're a tool carrier because I show the model of the AH, and you still claim its variable speed. I've have clueless kids in my HVAC class like you every year. But at least they learn. Hopefully you will. 😂
@03heritage03 Very simple. A system low on refrigerant will run much longer than a properly charged system. Longer run times mean increased wear and tear on components. Increased wear and tear means increased potential for pre mature failures.
I was "gifted" a 20 year old portable air conditioner with a busted capacitor (largest of 3 in the unit and with the highest uF rating--30uF to be specific). I ran it for a few seconds and while the fan was running, I could hear a "hum" but it didn't sound any louder than other a/c's that I've used before. I turned it off to cleanup and found the coils both on the condenser and evaporator were about 75% covered with 2-3mm thick lint and dust that peeled off like soft paper towel. My question is, aside from the one busted capacitor, does it make sense to replace the other smaller capacitors as well (one is 4uF and the other 8uF)? (I tested both with a multimeter and found they were 5-10% below the rated uF ratings printed on each".)
Register the unit for the 10 year warranty. Surge protection. Once the inverter board acts up or the communication board goes bad, things get expensive fast.
My blades have a lot of rust spots all over the blades. I rinsed and used fan blade cleaner. Lots of dirt came off, but still this rust or rust like stuff will not come off. What should I do?
I don’t know how Chillwell is allowed to advertise. It’s a total scam and the claims it make outrageous and just not possible no matter how smart the guy is. Oh yeah and the guy never worked for NASA. It’s a simple swamp cooler and nothing they show in the majority of the add is even inside this thing. No frosting copper just an Evaporative media and a fan. It’s complete BS. How is RU-vid allowing this scam artist to advertise or will they accept anyone’s money no matter what?
@vegasman77704 Who said anything about a start component? First, figure out what components to what. Then, I can explain how airflow and refrigerant issues can cause RUN capacitors to fail prematurely.
@keithanderson6166 Almost nobody replaces their unit just for efficiency. People replace their systems when the unit has surpassed its life expectancy and/or the required repairs would not be cost-effective to invest into an old system.
Do those units still use the four wire communication as well as the double thick condenser coil. I know the older high efficiency two stage models did. Not many people sell carrier in our area so I mostly work on Trane variable speed.
I think it's a good idea to do regular maintenance if for no other reason than to visually inspect for problems before they get to be big, but how would the wiring on the inside unit effect the fan capacitor outside? The only thing connecting the two is the contactor that is electrically isolated, right?
First house I ever bought (new home 1993) had a trane heat pump. First winter my electric bills were outrageous compared to my neighbors. The builders HVAC contractor came out several times and could find no problems. The unit was freezing up and the heat strips were running all the time. I finally took matter into my own hands and found the installers guide left with equipment. Super easy to check defrost function. You shorted to test points to force the defrost relay to energize. Failed the test. I went and bought a new defrost control PCB and fixed myself. I was so happy it was fixed i left the contractor a message to let him know i fixed it and asked for him to reimburse me for the board, which was like $30. I was not mean or belligerent or bragging, just happy it was fixed. He called my wife while I was at work and cursed me six ways to Sunday. Soon as I got home went to his office and confronted him which resulted in him getting punched out after swinging at me. That was my very FIRST experience dealing with HVAC company!
I wish he could've gave some more information about what was going on . I can stick my head under the cow and say yup thems tits . But not explain how to get milk .😮
On jobs like this.. where the lines are routed in such a way that it's not easy to run a new line if needed.. I usually pitch to the customer (or GC): that I want to put TWO sets of copper lines in the wall there.. on initial construction. And you just cap them on both ends and then you have that cheap insurance that you can use the other lines if anything goes wrong. It's only 20 to 30 ft of copper.. which is a lot cheaper than all this tear out and patching by multiple contractors... I do it with plumbing and wires too if the situation is hard to access. If it's hard to route and in a weird spot.. I run it twice. :) You can't believe how great it feels when you have to use that other line because something went wrong (which is rare).. and you're so glad you put it in there ahead of time... I don't do it for free though. The customer will usually gladly pay for it, because it's cheap insurance that can save them 10 years later hanging pictures on the wall. or whatever else..
@calholli Yes, in some instances. Not this one. It's almost never an option for exterior linessets on a custom home project. It's also almost never an option when dealing with private HOA developments. HOAs around here decline exterior linessets on a daily basis. In this specific case, the subs were at fault, and this is what the GC requested, so that's what we did. Makes no difference to me. We've been in business for over 50 years. We have seen and done it all.
@@HVACinSC Right on... The wrong GC can make headaches for everyone... I get it. I ran a crew building houses for years myself. You can blame it on the subs.. but the GC hired them.. :) Cheers
Low refrigerant charge = Longer run cycles Longer run cycles = More stress on components More stress on components = Higher potential for pre mature failures. :)
The wifes dads two year old unit died to a bad capacitor .The A.C guy said they use cheap china parts on alot of the new units .Cant believe it lasted only two years.
If it was a new unit, It should have come with a 5 year parts warranty standard. If they registered the system (which they should have), most systems then get a 10 year parts warranty.
How do you check for oil on that type of compressor, I know that one is bad because it’s leaking oil but is there a site window on that type? I have the same brand carrier 2004 model 5 ton. I also know this is 4 years ago
@Honestandtruth Yep, no different than nearly everything else in life. There are folks that want to best, folks that want mid range, and others that want the cheapest option available. To each their own.
the video proof (before) starting any repairs is as much as important as any troubleshooting skill you have. otherwise the customer could say you caused the fried wires when you installed it.
