When back yard mechanics figure out all problems of the equinox motor! Chevrolet is in big troubles in the future. Note to Chevrolet stop building junk for Americans your taking in waters in your corporation, the boat is sinking good luck!!!!
Frank where you planning to install the 1/4" NPT where you cracked the manifold Do you think by moving it up will do the job, maybe that way i don't have to remove the manifold Thanks
HI, Frank I had been looking for a video like yours. I have Terrain same problem I need to know what size is the hole at the manifold, I don't see on any of the comments Thanks
@@terrancewilliams138 how does that help? What do you do with the expelled pressure and oil residue? Really bad idea. Not to mention that you'd never pass an emissions test.
I feel like having the pcv draw from the oil cap would draw more oil into the intake system and foul the pistons and burn more oil. Oil is being flung around by the camshaft. What are your thoughts?
Solution I found was a ventilated oil screw cap. ACDelco Oil Filler Cap FC219. Says that it won't fit on an Equinox however many posts said that it will indeed fit on the oil fill. I also have a 2007 Pontiac G6 and it fits this also.
A vented cap allows release of pressure build up so why exactly wouldn't work? Obviously venting through the pcv is best but if it did get blocked with gunk or freezing a release of pressure would be preferred over blowing out a seal.
If it throws a code I will go back to original oil fill cap. I will then drill a small clean out hole from the outside of the intake and seal it with a machine screw. Cleaning it out with wire or paper clip when I do an oil change. Alot easier then removing the intake. Even if I need to clean it more often not a problem. I already check weekly for oil level. Just another quick check. A few good videos out there on how drill the hole including putting dielectric on the drill bit so the plastic shavings stick to the bit. There is always more than one way.
@catherineandjimleclaire9034 but it still doesn't work. It's simply a temporary repair . Drilling out the PCV orifice changes the vacuum signal. You will be chasing this problem forever. My solution is permanent.
Hi Frank, what about adding a throttle plate spacer with a vacuum port instead of having to pull the intake manifold, would that work? You still haven't burned any oil? Great fix that you came up with which is a permanent fix. Thanks much!
@@Frank4358 Hi Frank, Apparently they don't sell the INTERMOTOR, SMP, PN# PCV352, i can't even find it online. Do you know another PCV that will work with that engine and grommet size? I already bought the grommet and drilled out the cap. I bough a PCV (PCA1002) that I thought was compatible but it appears too large in diameter. Any help would be appreciated, as I am not sure how to size these valves. Thank you!
So im in process of doing this. How does this get rif of the oil consumption? If it was sucking oil through pcv orifice in intake wouldnt it just push oil through the new pcv valve and into the intake and still burn it? Also i am removing my vented oil cap is there a possibility of using this method and it builds up pressure and blows out rear main seal? Or is that not possible with the pcv valve in the oil cap?
The alternate PCV draws the pressure out of the engine into the plenum and then burns the fumes harmlessly in the combustion chamber. If you remove the oil cap you will see a baffle under the cap that prevents oil splashing back on the PCV. The reduced crankcase pressure alleviates the blowby, thereby eliminating the oil consumption. After performing this modification on my engine, all oil consumption stopped.
And it doubles as an oil cap retainer! I ended up drilling a small hole in the front of the manifold, right where that little valve hole would be, from the outside of the manifold. jammed an opened up paper clip in there, found the hole and gave it a good wallerin out. I then sealed the hole I made in the front with a pan-head screw so I could get in there every other oil change or so to ram out the PCV valve. Seems to work pretty well.
@MerkoniumJones reduced crankcase pressure. When the pressure within the engine has no way to be relieved, the pressure finds the path of least resistance: through the rear main seal and passing by the low-tension rings. With an active PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), no pressure builds up.
I tried to get that oil cap twice from 2 different vendors. They keep substituting with a flat gates or flat motorad that’s low profile can’t use with the cover. What part number should I try?
@@Frank4358 according to the picture Advanced is substituting with the motorad flat cap. I tried it anyways. It’s a little tight for your hands, but it clears the engine cover. That’s the important part. I did find one eventually on eBay. Thanks again for the help.
You should not have done that. You are putting the entire pvc burden on one cylinder. The factory pvc uses a shared vacuum location. You are causing one cylinder to suck all the pvc fumes and one cylinder will run lean.
I know this has been out for a while but, could you just modify the oil cap and route the relief hose into the air box just after the filter? There would be virtually no disassembly required; just mods to the air box and oil cap. Just looking for a simplier way without removing the intake.
No. That will not do anything useful. The way it's set up it's drawing a vacuum and relieving the crankcase pressure. The vapors are being drawn into the combustion chamber and burned off.
Same brain dead engineers created a similar pcv orfice in my 2014 Chevy Cruze 1.4 turbo. But with what looks like a Holley carb rubber diaphragm. What a joke. I installed an outside pcv system on it. And had to replace the valve cover because it had a rubber diaphragm in it also. Just blows my mind the lack of how a pcv system should be simple, and a non common sense smart ass can screw up the design.
Guys, can anyone upload a few photos of your Honda CTX700 with those bags installed, please! I am trying to figure how wide would the bike be? A suspect that installing SH36 will significantly effect the chances to ride between lanes in the city (especially narrow European, where I live). Will really appreciate it! Ride safe! Glory to Ukraine! Putin is Huilo, btw )
THERE BATTERY TENDER CONTINUOUSLY CHARGES; NEVER TURNS OFF; RUINED A FE BATTERY'S WITH THOSE. !! MFG TOLD ME ITS THE DESIGN SO HAD TO PUT THE TENDER ON A TIMER/ 15 MINUTES ONCE A WEEK. NICE JOB ON WIRING BUT MISSED THE SWITCHING; I DON'T WANT IT OFF THE BATTERY DIRECTLY; FOR SURE.
I think you had a defective battery tender. My tender was plugged in 24/7, and I never had a problem with my battery. Question: Did you have an actual battery tender brand or another manufacturer's tender? And the wiring for the battery tender is per manufacturer's instructions: directly to the battery.
@medionlvr not really Just venting takes whatever it sees at the vent. A true PCV system draws the pressure out and then distributes the vapors to the combustion chamber, where they are burned off.
Guys i just rebuilt my Chevy equinox engine, when i replaced my pistons i bought the upgraded pistons with a better oil ring gap, also I drilled holes in the seats of the oil rings and filed them smooth as butter before I put the oil rings in. Refer to Jasper engines video on RU-vid to verify this
Just bought a '13. Haven't even seen it yet. Had my brother-in-law check it out. I'm okay with replacing rings if oil consumption is more than I like. Just saw you replaced pistons also. Did you notice much difference from the old ones to the new ones? Thank you!
I own a 2012 Equinox with this engine, and I need to point out 2 things. 1. Years ago, cars had a small filter just inside the PCV connection to the air intake which stopped oil from getting into the incoming air but allowed the crankcase gases in to be burned for emissions control. I'm not sure how you'd add this to the 2.4L, but I think it would be easier. 2. The engine in this video sounds like it's low on oil. Based on my experience (210,000 miles), the engine should run MUCH quieter than that with a proper oil level. When this engine gets down to 2 quarts (that's 3 quarts low), it will knock, and only adding oil will fix it. As for PCV pressure, this engine has 11.2 to 1 compression (high for gasoline), which means the combustion gases will have substantial pressure both at the exhaust valves and in the crankcase. If you suspect an oil leak, check the seal around the oil pan, and the oil drain plug. The factory oil pan seal is not a gasket, but a sealant. This can develop leaks.
The filter you speak of was a foam filter that was installed inside the air cleaner assembly. There's a baffle under the oil cap that deflects oil away from the PCV, so there's no oil transfer. The engine had a full compliment of oil -- it was not low. And the "noise" you hear was from the high-pressure fuel pump. A noise that's considered normal by General Motors. It was confirmed using A stethoscope.
So I did this to my 2011 Chevy equinox it seems to be working good except I have a squealing or squeaking noise. Do you know what this is from? If I take the oil cap off while it’s running the squeaking noise goes away please let me know as soon as possible what this problem could be.
@@jasonrhodes9455 but did you clean out the PCV return line from the cylinder head to the air box? And be sure to use pressurized air on the cylinder head port.
