Honestly, no. But the way I did it was prior to welding the gantry on both sides, I snuged up a bolt on both sides. Created multiple triangles within itself. Checked them on a square I had handy. Moved one side of the gantry till I had it square, then welded on each side. Hope that helps!
Pretty much spot on. I took the measurements they had and went off their maximum suggested belt length, and that is what I went with for measurements. Honestly at this point, I am considering a redesign with a rack and pinion with servo motors and linear rails. That is not as cost effective as this design though, so may not happen. Thanks!
Realistically, I am fairly poor with the plasma by hand. Not as steady as I wish to be. Cutting with a grinder was easier. Now that it is together, I have the ability to make better ones.... or future upgrade will be a little easier. Thanks!
Hey nicely done. I am still hesitant at building mine. The plasma cutter you have, its just a blowback start? No CNC port or anything? I wonder if I can get away from using a blowback start plasma (Yeswelder 55ds-pro) from amazon... What do you think?
Thanks! Yep nothing more then a blowback start. For future upgrades like a THC, it would have been nice to have a cnc enabled machine from the get go, but hopefully future state will allow that. I have the Lotus 55 with blowback, and as of this time has been fairly trouble free. The Yeswelder version was available, but it was newer and the reviews at that time pushed me to the Lotus. Hope this helps!
@@luecksrodcustom7686 Wow thank you for such quick reply. I appreciate all your help! Hearing this, I think I will save the extra money and get myself the CNC enabled one.
How much did it actually cost you. I’ve been planning on doing jds cutter for a while now and saw their vid on it still costing less than 350. Just from the electrons on amazon and it’s been more than that. So just curious what your total was.
Really depends. They base it on the smaller unit and only x and y axis. This unit, current state as seen in the video I would estimate was about 600. But unfortunately alot of my hardware was by the each. I should have purchased on the rainforest site in bulk instead. The main electronics ran me around 100. Metal was close to 200. I purchased full sticks at my local depot due to a cut charge. So I got more than I needed. Hope that helps!
Sir, I am interested in the electronics you used. Did you use the parts list from JD Garage with an extra drive motor for the gant Also what programs did you use for the creation for the model and creating the gcode for the machine? I am just getting started on the project. Any hints / details for making the table adjustable is welcome. Thanks, P.
Good day, I did use everything from the JD Garage list, same controllers and motors. Added a controller and motor for the 2nd side on the gantry. Piggy backed the signal from the arduino. Reversed the wiring on one set of the wires from the controller to the motor to reverse direction. Currently using the hobbiest version of Fusion to design and process in to gcode. Using openbuilds to run the table. Openbuilds has calibrations in it to adjust for distance. It will run up to 100mm, and you need to measure actually distance it went. Took a number of times to get to pretty darn close. I left the gantry only bolted on each side until I ran test triangles making sure the triangles were square, once there, I welded it in place. Thanks for the questions!
It's a problem using dual motors to drive the one axis, they lose steps during power cycles etc, resulting in your axis going out of square. It would have to be checked or homed against a hard stop with sensor-less motors etc.
I made mine 5x5 but I’m having an issue where the y axis will only move 39 inches and then stop. If I let off the button, wait a second, and push it again it will move again. I’m guessing something in the programming is stopping it.
Hey fantastic job I was hoping to ask for a bit of guidance. How did u wire the 2step motors on the Y frame ? And ia there any change in the code or controller ? Can you maybe share that part with us? I already bought JD s plans but cant seem to sort it out out 😢
Thanks! No change in the code or controllers. One side I wired the same as the JDs diagram. Other side I flipped the wires on the A pair at the controller. 2 separate controllers. One was piggy-backed off the other. I am hoping to do a follow up on it soon. I will try and cover more information on the build in there. I intend to add the Z-axis soon. Thanks!
Sorry, I missed your comment. It has a cut size or 44x37. Can fit a full 48" width sheet in it as long as it isn't 3/8 thick. Now having done it, I would have gone another 6" wider and probably a little longer. Biggest thing is wider, only to be able to fully use a 48" cut path, and not have the bearing supports contact the plate. Thanks!
Good luck! Hope it works out well for you. Finally running it a little and figuring thing out. May take a bit to get it all working how you expect it to.
I’m building the same as you jds I have 4 large stepper drivers and a small driver for the z. The plan for the 4 large driver are. For the duel y axes . A driver for the X and a driver for the rotary option.
I used the same signal wires. Went from one controller to the next. Reversed one of the pairs to the opposite side to reverse the motor direction. Thank you!
Nice build. I too prefer the gantry supported on both ends. I'm putting together a very basic CNC plasma table from scratch but it isn't going to be as heavy duty as yours is (can't afford it just yet, but eventually). 1000mm x 500mm v-groove extrusions make up my frame. The gantry is also a 500mm v-groove extrusion. Both x and y axis are belt driven. I would like to have a z axis as well and that will probably be threaded rod driven, but I'll probably forgo the z-axis at first. I'm okay with assembling the mechanical components but I'm no programmer and I'm wondering where to start when it comes to setting up the control system. I was wondering if you can offer some tips to make this part of the build a bit easier for me. I have seen controllers harvested from laser cutters used on small DIY plasma projects, but I'm not sure if many desktop laser controllers will have z-axis control options. Any advice or tips that can get me over the controller portion of this build would be greatly appreciated. I have heard that HF interference can be an issue and that ferrite choke rings on wires are a good idea. Where to place such rings is a mystery to me. My projects will be mostly heavier brackets and maybe some 1/8 inch thick signs. Any suggestions on how to get a controller set up for such a project will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the info and the videos. It all helps. Subscribed. Robhoski@gmail.com
What I can tell you as far as the program goes is that I used openbuilds controller. The settings for that were all part of the JDs Garage plans. Not sure if I can share them. I am using an Arduino Uno with stepper motor controllers for each motor. I used a blowback plasma to avoid the HF interference. When using a HF, grounding of everything is very important from my understanding. I wish you luck! So far, I have barely used it as I am putting a car together for my son.
@@luecksrodcustom7686 thanks. I recently discovered the open builds cam software. I was able to bring an SVG file in and create the toolpath in G-Code needed to cut the part. I will probably use the grbl app to send the code to the machine. Still not quite sure about the controller but I know open builds sells one.
Honestly, when I cut it by hand, I probably would have been grinding it quite a bit to flatten it out. Funny story: Back in the day, I made a bumper out of 1/4" steel. Storage on both sides and steps to get up. Lifted truck, bumper needed to drop quite a bit to make the truck legal in MN. I borrowed a plasma to make it. I think it was a Cut 40 if I remember correctly. Used a guide and all, looked decent. But I found it took less time to cut the medal with a cutoff then that plasma did. That probably is part of why I just cut it with the grinder.
I do plan on a water table. Problem right now is I only have a solid 3ft brake, and unfortunately for how it would need to be made, I would need a finger brake, or someone else to bend it. As soon as I have the spare funds, I will get one made and work with that and the z-axis. Thanks!
Awesome remix on the o.g plans. Ive seen support rollers for the other side but mirroring the other side looks awesome. How much is your power supply to run the other motor?
Nice job. I made mine two years ago but with only one gantry. I'm in the process to build my next one, 4x4 two gantries, i bought a hypertherm 45xp cutter and i have a myplasm controller. I will use my first one to cut the pieces for that next one.
I will apologize. This took about 5 days at different times of the day. Some of it was 10-15 minutes at a time. I should have done a better job at coving the assembly process.
@luecksrodcustom7686 it's all good. I just keep running into little things that set me back. And only get weekend off and only get maby one a month to work on this. But seeing yours done is inspiring. Thank
This is cool :) I have been thinking of making dual motors for the y axis as well :) I have the base model from JD at the moment, but with ballscrews instead of belts.
I had considered the ballscrew and also a rack and pinion, but funds just weren't there. Maybe upgrade in the future? I have already considered making a bigger table using this to cut the parts out, but probably should get used to this one first lol!
@@luecksrodcustom7686 Think this one has a pretty good size already? :) I might not have the space for it, as I have a 1 car garage, which is converted to my home workshop.
Same as below...I've been planning upgrades prior to building mine. I saw several people who had issues with the 3d printed parts supporting the cantilevered arm, so I planned on doing the 2 gantry sides. I kinda want it bigger, but the smaller size and easily obtainable water tray seem more useful to me at the moment. I'll probably only do brackets and small signage or something once I get it done. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the comment! The water table is a huge plus! It makes a mess right now, but I was willing for the trade. This has a cut capability of 44 on x and 39 on y. Good luck on your build!
@@luecksrodcustom7686 Nice. I thought about a 4x4, but then I saw some prices on appropriately sized water pans, and thought hard about if I needed something that big. haha
It will fit a 4ft wide sheet, but only 44 inches of available cutting area. And if the sheet gets too thick, then it will hit the gantry supports. A little wider would have been key. I know the limit until it was built, so maybe next time!
To be honest, I don't know. I wanted to make sure I had proper amperage and it was sized for the motor so I didn't have any foreseeable issues. That being said, it may be possible off a proper sized controller. I would do some research on the subject to be certain though.
Wow, you did exactly what I’m doing. I didn’t like the cantilevered arm. I even have the same electrical box that you have! I’m also going to increase the table size. I am planning on using drag chain for the wires.
I would guess you should be able to without much issue. I would contact Ron Francis directly, they are very helpful and would be able to answer the questions. They mainly are built for swaps, but they may be able to help you out.
After watching this ,I subscribed . There are a lot of us out here that can learn from this! How you made that last piece shows that a hard part to build can be done! Keep up the good work.
Unfortunately not. Didn't loose interest, just ultimately failed and didn't follow through on trying to get a title. MN has been a struggle in the past to get a title for an abandoned vehicle. Have gotten a little more lenient since. Next project coming soon, I will need to go through the process. Thanks for the question!
Originally, it did. I removed it for driveshaft clearance. Measured mount and welded tubing spacers on the crossmember on the outside corners for the new cab mount locations.
Hey it’s coming together. Once you get a coat of paint on there and like you say , put all the parts back on and you’ll never know the difference other than having confidence that your feet aren’t going to fall thru or the cab separates from the frame while going down the road! 😂 Love watching the progress. Can’t wait for the next video!
So very true. You can plan and plan, and life will take you in every other direction. Some times feels as if everything is fighting against you to finish, or even just getting to the next step.
Hey Justin Tinkham, what I did is use the stock Crown Vic FPCM, stock tank, fuel lines, etc. Using the Ron Francis harness, I picked the option to keep that. Took and build a structure behind the rear axle to maintain the vertical style tank. It does take up a lot of bed room and makes it very limited for hauling things. Obviously a horizontal tank under the bed would have helped with space for that. Still would have a hump for the suspension either way. I looked at it as a budget friendly way to have a fuel system. Had I had a better budget, it would have been done a different way. Yet it is completely functional and working good. Pain to fill the tank, as the neck I made work doesn't allow fast flow. But that's a me thing as I wanted the filler cap on the wheel well. With your '79, and the Walbro, you would probably benefit from a regulator and a return line. If you retained the FPCM and wiring, you probably could use the 190 pump and a different tank. I am pretty sure it uses PWM to control pump speed, according to the pressure sensor on the rail. Thanks for the question, hopefully it helps! Good luck on your build!
