@johnkahrs9706 Coincidentally, as you draw a lot in Photoshop, I draw almost everything in Illustrator. There's a really nice plugin called Cad Tools that is awesome for adding dimensions before making parts. And another by Astute Graphics that does live rounded corners and a host of other useful drawing tools. I also really love illustrator for accurately calculating material usage. Probably nothing compared to CAD but its what I've used for 30+ years. Being able to add text, pics, screen grabs from everywhere make the 2D tools nice to use.
I have an '82 wagon where the tach and speedometer isn't working. It's not clear to me from the video whether or not the fuse behind the glove box compartment is ONLY on later model w123 or if all w123 have this...Does anyone here know?
Is this still an active project for you? I'd be happy to put your drawings in CAD and put together a model if that would be helpful for Clearances/Confidence and what not...
I just recently bought a W123 280CE with all small gremlins possible and I am preparing myself to deal with them. Thank you for a nice informative video!
The 3/4" support bar for the fingers is indeed welded on both edges to the top 1/2" plate. After welding the plate is straightened in a press (+/-0.04") and the finger mounting surfaces are cleaned up in a mill. 2. The vertical bar to stiffen the bottom A2 plate is screwed to the plate with 5 M8 or 5/16" Allen cap screws. All the shafts are 3/4" dia 1045 shafting. The rear eccenters should be hardened. No need for so many segments, use a 0.5"-1"-2"-4"-8"-8.5" set. This gives you 48 sizes with just one extra tapped hole between the 1" holes. .
Hi Dan, your videos are amazing and have inspired me to develop a large range of field machines. If I ever get the chance to meet you please let me know, it would be an incredible honor.
BTW, Where have you been able to source parts? I need the brass bushings in the gearbox. I was actually thinking about buying a mini lathe just to make parts to fix my 5914. Eventually, I may add a stepper to control longitude and cross feed rates...I already bought the electronics to control everything and already have the stepper too....just trying to figure out if the stepper needs the gear box to drive the movements, or if I can just run it direct drive...stepper might not have enough direct torque without the transmission.
The gearbox is one of the components I still haven’t gone through. But I recall a guy in the SF Bay Area did his a few years ago- his insta is ‘kalamers’. He said the bushings were all available at McMaster-Carr. In my experience (which is mostly SB lathes- just did a heavy 10L gearbox) just carefully digging into it and creating a detailed record of everything will reveal all the details you need to know..
Thanks John! I'm gonna rebuild mine soon too...I'm actually doing a complete tear down and rebuild of the whole lathe now...with the exception of the main spindle...that is still gut und tight
Thanks for sharing, im sure it is very rewarding seeing it come together after head scratching and doing detective work with clues along the way! I would love to get a better grasp of the lapped back plate 4 jaw self centering chuck set up that Dan has on his lathe. I have tried and failed to figure it out on paper...
Nice work I was also impressed with that brake .please finalize it and realeze the video. With regard to the little bit over sized sprocke holes i think you ca use loctite to fill the gap I hear Dan Galbart saying you can apply loctite to fix bearing movements. Thanks
Hey guys, around the 9:08 mark you say “this little oil sender would definitely cause a problem if I started the car right now”. I actually did start the car at that point (with the oil sender still disconnected) and now it won’t start again (with everything re-connected). What do I need to do?
seems like you really put a lot of time and effort into this rebuild, then why use a 009 distributor? Those were made for farm equipment that run wide open at top rpm, not a 4 speed, The flat spot as you shift into second is the worst. I have the same big bure 40hp setup along with the original big cap and it runs like a dream
OMG I love that wrench I bought it probably 20 years ago in the bay area. You can still find it if you look up "Japanese thin nose adjustable wrench" What I love is that it's very small but it opens to greater than 1 inch.
Thanks for that information. I just picked up a set of TOP HT-200B from Amazon for $28.81. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive from Japan. Was your root problem a broken or dislodged e-clip?
The clip worked itself out of the groove so the face gear no longer engaged. Not impressed with that method of securing. I didn’t talk about it too much, but I was overall disappointed with the quality of components inside that thing. I think a 5914 is a big step up in capability from a South Bend 9A, for instance but say, a South Bend Heavy 10L apron is far more refined, more robust, and more precise when you start messing around inside there.
Thanky so much for your help for the rear rubber seal you have to slide it from onr side to another i make it that way and the rubber wrnt perfectly well and very intact
great advises and explanatory video, i have w124, also that is doing the same thing, will check grounding right after this. thanks for your effort to explain.
I have a 1200 40hp built in March of 1965 and it too had a hole blown but the #1 piston. I check everything else and the measurements are still good for new std rebuild kit. I found AApreformance has the 77mm kit for a pretty good price. Surprised I can still get a new kit for this engine.
Super happy to see this moving forward, and glad I thought to look it up a day after you had posted the update. I was subscribed with notifications but didn’t see it drop
Finally!! I was thinking about this a couple of days ago and had written it off as never finished. Quite understand the hassle of moving a workshop, our hackspace has been largely in limbo for a year. Now if somebody could just replicate Dan's spot welder...
@@JohnDoe-ki6yd The Spot welder? Dan's video on the subject is a masterclass, and it would be great to have that sort of functionality in our hackspace. But it really needs a spotwelder as capable as his. It wouldn't need to be an exact clone, but there are three things that I can see in Dan's design that raise it a couple of levels above the DIY designs I've seen on RU-vid 1) The foot operated pneumatic closure 2) Fittings for different jobs 3) (possibly least important) It looks like it closes vertically, rather than like a pair of jaws
Weld distortion can be minimized by simply not welding a full pass. Stitch welds will do fine. If you share your Photoshop files I’ll model this in CAD and assist with the build. I own a fab shop in Canada.
That's a good tip on the welding. Photoshop file with layers (and a jpg version) are now linked in description. This is a 5000 X 7000 pixel image, errors and all. I do like the idea of open-sourcing this...
@@johnkahrs9706 Let's open source the design when a working example has been built. We should work privately until then. Put a contact method in your profile so I can get in touch. I have a rough model done but YT wont let me post the URL
As one of the eleven guys: Did you try to reach out to Dan Gelbart regarding this project? He is surprisingly approachable, and reads/replies to messages on his YT-channel.
He provided just the right amount of clues to keep me going in the comments of the first video. Would love to meet him one day… one of the charms of this project is the challenge of figuring it out…
Re questions in the video: all parts are mild steel (cold rolled to minimize machining, but can be machined hot rolled). All parts that touch the sheet metal are case-hardened. The stiffening bars and side plates are welded (after placing alignment dowels or screws). The welding caused little distortion but the case hardening caused some additional distortion. The case hardening was very deep (about a mm) to allow to correct the distortion by grinding with a sanding disc held in a table saw. At the time I had no oven or press, so I could not fix the distortion in a press. If you have an oven you can heat up the parts to case-hardening temperature, quench, straighten or machine off the distortion and then send out to case hardening. The didtortion now will be small as it already went through a "dummy cycle".
@@dgelbart Thanks for your clarification! Also thanks for your 25-part UBC lecture-series on servos, sensors, actuators and system-design (uploaded by "fizzym" on YT). :) Binge-watch-worthy!
We need someone else to recreate this. I was about to tell him "just ask him" but instead he takes his time and comes to the video and explains it in detail... and it still isn't done! I will gladly accept the challenge. Will keep you all updated.
Here are JPGs of my best guess of the fixture. RU-vid doesn't let you post images so I linked them. drive.google.com/file/d/1_TSCU9VXV5IADxed08E3q2b5vgl1ERNe/view?usp=drive_link drive.google.com/file/d/16JP25E5s_LcimHlzmXACmtzkmsngnXsm/view?usp=drive_link drive.google.com/file/d/1l9hxgGmUUbygbeBBOjQsWJATwSGG76F-/view?usp=drive_link
