Advanced Tanning Solutions was founded by award winning sculptor, taxidermist and Hall-of-Famer, Dale Knobloch in 2017. As a pioneer in the industry, Dale has led the way in many new advances in tanning products and processes.
We produce tanning how-to videos and tips on the tanning process.
Show de bola, estou aq do Brasil acompanhando, gostei muito do seu conteúdo 👏👏 parabens quero muito aprender taxidermia mas aq no brasil é muito dificil e caro de achar cursos, mas to aprendendo com a ajuda das legendas kkk parabens
Translation: Great show, I'm here from Brazil following, I really liked your content 👏👏 congratulations I really want to learn taxidermy but here in Brazil it's very difficult and expensive to find courses, but I'm learning with the help of the subtitles lol congratulations Our response: Estamos felices de que nuestro video haya sido útil para el proceso de bronceado. ¡Gracias por ver! We are happy the video was helpful for the tanning process. Thank you for watching!
I have an elk hide that I have fleshed, removed the hair (I just want to make leather), pickled and have had it soaking in cold water (changed out every other day) for 2 months now. I have a gallon of NuTan on hand. Do I still have to salt this (no hair remember) or can I drain it and then use the NuTan solution on it?
For this skin, we did not remove the scales. I like the look with the scales on and it will just be displayed on the wall, so not concerned about the scales falling off with use.
@@buffaloman5042 It is best to remove the scales after the snakeskin has been tanned (it is firmer at this point) and before it is oiled (the oil will penetrate better). The direction booklet for the Tan-a-Snake kit shows how to remove them. It is just gently popping them off with the fleshing tool or scraping with steel wool with no soap. Go easy as to not remove the pigment.
You can, but that will still yield a raw skin and won't tan it. For a simpler process, try our NuTan. It is a liquid all-in-one tan with fewer steps. After fleshing, we recommend salting then rehydrating - you can follow the directions for NuTan from there.
@hondosmith3172 - Thank you for the feedback! Yes, this one is a bit long. It is really geared towards the first time tanner wanting to know everything. You can always fast forward to certain steps. We do have additional videos in the works that will be shorter.
Yes, if you want to tan buckskin (hair off) leather, we still recommend fleshing, salting, rehydradting/hair removal bath. Then go to the pickle, tan and oil step. See our Hide Hair Removal product for an easy way to dehair.
Being someone who apprenticed years to learn the trade and had to sign contracts to not reveal secrets or be sued shame on all the taxidermist that tell our secrets that alot of us had to put in blood sweat tears and $ into our carries. RU-vid taxidermist should be sued
Thank you for your comment. This is an interesting view. We are only showing tanning here, but that is what is so special about Dale Knobloch, our founder. He is a pioneer in the industry (45+ years) and has always shared his knowledge of taxidermy, sculpting and tanning to those who were as passionate about it as he is. "If you have knowledge, let others light their candle in it" - Margaret Fuller
I did my first Whitetail hide following each step exactly. Watched this video as I completed each step. The deer pelt turned out beautiful. Thank you so much. Great job. Very very helpful.
This is a very detailed tutorial on how NOT to tan a hide. You can see the loss of guard hairs(especially on the hind quarters)and how stiff the hide is. Use an actual tan or save your time and money and send it to a tannery
David, thank you for your comments. I am replying to all 3 here. First, this elk hide was heavily salted until there was no more moisture pulled out. Since we planned on tanning it right away, we did not completely dry salt it. Pickle Tan A-21 is very much a tan. It is a powder blend developed to be used as a pickle and tan in one bath. Yes, a new concept from traditional tanning. Our founder, Dale Knobloch, worked with commercial tanneries to test and fine tune this innovative product. Yes clearly, the hide is not as soft as it would be if it was tumbled in a commercial drum with wood shavings (one of these is on my wish list). However, this video is targeted for the DIY tanner, so breaking a hide in a tumbler is generally not an option. An elk especially, takes A LOT of elbow grease. Last comment, this hide was tanned 2 years ago and does not have any slippage. It was our son's first elk, so some of the areas you may be referring to could be from being dragged (in the high rugged Colorado terrain) prior to skinning/dressing. Since you do tanning and taxidermy, and would like to try Pickle Tan A-21, let me know.
@@AdvancedTanningSolutions I've used pickle tans before, I just never liked the quality of the finished product. I've tanned several elk with Lutan and had very little trouble breaking them, stretching as they dry and a soft, supple hide as a finished product. I had to remount all the animals I mounted with pickle tans because of the shrinking and cracking after a few years. I'm not trying to knock your product, I'm just saying there are better, easier ways to get a quality tan
You aren't actually tanning the hide, just pickling it and neutralizing it. It will eventually fall apart or get hard as a rock because the hide isn't actually leather without using an actual tanning solution. A real tan is a much better way to go if you want a quality hide that will stand the test of time
Interesting method, as a taxidermist for 40 years, I'm surprised that you end up with any hair left salting lightly and not totally drying the hide but I guess it works for you!
There are pros and cons to putting a hide in a frame - if you do, put it in after it has been tanned and oiled. It will dry flat, but you are unable to really work it. You can rub something coarse like sandpaper or a dull tool over the flesh side to help break it.
I think my hide took to long to dry I came back from two day elk hunt it is damp and I think it started to mold? A thing I can do this is after nu tan applied
Never mind it was not mold just excess oils turned white in a dot pattern. It's all dry now and looks great just need to break it more to soften. This is my second hide and I was concerned my first didn't have enough nu tan but I'm sure I put to much on second so I think my next one should be perfect.....
So for the poor man in Africa who cannot pop into a taxidermy shop and buy SNAKE TAN mixture all ready made ! What is the chemical composition of your snake tan mixture ?---there are so many --ie chrome sulphate --alum sulphate /Zirconium --? or is it a secret formula ? --
@@dethmaul Happy to hear you are doing the tanning process in a warm area - this is key to having the products work properly and getting a quality end result.
I used angle grinder with 85 grit. Be careful it is aggressive especially at first before you grt a little build up on disc. After it got "dirty" it was easier.
It could be there wasn't enough oil on the skin and/or it dried too fast. You can rehydrate the skin in plain water just until it is relaxed (usually only 15-20 minutes), then drain until damp, lay out on plastic/saran wrap and re-oil. Start with the scale side up and depending on how think the skin is, let it soak in for 1-2 hours, then turn over and oil the flesh side (apply a little extra oil along the belly scale area). Let this soak in for 1-2 hours, then turn back over with scale side up and dry this way overnight. The next day, turn the skin over - still keeping it on the plastic and dry it flesh side up overnight. Try keeping the skin in a cooler area, so it dries slower. It is important to keep the skin on the plastic for the first 2 days so the oil isn't pulled out of the skin. Next day, remove the plastic and finish drying the skin on cardboard. You can call if you still have questions. Thank you.
Good questions. There are different perceptions on using iodine vs. non-iodized salt in tanning. The concern has been that iodine may stain the hide/skin, however, there is so little amount of iodine in salt, that this insignificant amount will not cause any discoloration. Yes, table and canning/pickling salt are fine to use. The ones to avoid are rock salt - because the crystals are too large to break down, and any salt that has a high mineral content - such as feed store salt. The minerals added to salt can discolor the hide/skin.
@@katelync8495 You can stake the hide. There are pros and cons of doing so. It will dry flat, but often stiffer as you aren't able to work and stretch it as much. If you choose to stake it, do it after NuTan has been applied since the hide needs to be folded.
