Prius 2012 V, 147,000 miles. AC sometimes stops working while driving. If I stop the car, turn the engine/computer off, and restart, it works OK, and it works long time. Blows cold air again. Any idea?
many people complain that the pins on the black 6-pin controller connector bend easily. i removed the 2 special bolts and tried to pull hard, but these pins are also soldered to the PCB of the controller. I should have un-soldered these as I pull. Still, the problem remains, where do I find exact 6-pin connector.
update: I was able to remove the 3 long bolts and the 200 V DC electrical connection, without touching the engine coolant elements (thermostat housing and water pump). The AC compressor hangs on the freon hoses. I was able to remove the 3 bolts on the top, they are standard M5, with E Torx heads. I do not have a torx head tool, but I got from freight harbour tool set 66566. It is used to unscrew bolts with damaged heads. Then I placed the electronic controller on the table. The 6-pin connector is held by 2 bolts, M3, with their own special E-Torx heads. I was able remove them with a pair of regular pliers. I applied a slow continuous pressure, did not squeeze, because if you do, the pliers pop-off the head. I replaced all bolts with standard hex heads. It is important that this controller is bolted tight, because the 200 V DC does not mix well with water. The 6-pin connector has a little hole that leads to the space below, so it is very important to have a air tight seal there. A bit of silicon grease also helps to keep air, oxygen and salt away. I ordered a used compressor from ebay for $70. Amazon: only new, around 300-400. Rockauto-same price, out of stock. car-parts.com-only used between 50 and 500. Autozone: 1507. WOWOW!!!. Since the problem with the bent pins is so frequent, then smn should start repairing these. I tried to pull out the 6-pin connector, but it did not come out smoothly, and I stopped. When I get the replacement, I shall try again/
the black 6-pins connector on top is a frequent problem. these pins can bend very easily. it is impossible to get them straight, unless you put it on the bench. now, there is a solution: go to junk yard and get this damn controller.
Now, you will ask why on earth the pins will go bad. I had to replace the thermostat. spilled some pink coolant fluid. it contains H3PO4. This makes it electrolyte (or "lectrolit" as per the movie Idiocracy), i.e. conductor. you do not want electric conducting fluid inside the connector, it will short all pins. I washed it with water, but then, there was water in the connector, that is like a cup. I used a rug to absorb the water, then I realized the pins were bend. Did not know how thin they were. Now, going to the junkyard to get one of these controlers
I find it interesting that when you taking the compressor a part, the two snap rings at the power thermals I saw only two terminals, when putting it back together three terminals were present. where did the thread one come from?
It looks like a very compact and self contained design. I wonder if it can be repurposed into an inverter fridge using DC power alone (after some CAN bus based thermostat).
Is the inverter drive board pressurized? What I'm asking is... Can you exchange the inverter board on a system that is charged and not have to recharge it?
Doesn't look pressurized to me, only 3 bolts for that size of a rectangle gasket only for water proofing. The snap ring for the 3 phase going into the compressor motor also looks overbuild if they are pressurized.
My Prius 2012 with 140,000 miles on it stopped me on the road. The car engine nolonger starts but it can move or drive on HV battery only. The scan says P3147, P0335 and P0A0F. But later the P3147 stopped showing. I have changed the crankshaft position sensor, its good but I changed it. checked the reluctor plate inside the engine and its in its position and in good shape and I changed the ECU or brainbox. The crankshaft position sensor wire harness is good. Still the car can't start. Before this issue I have been having rattling and knocking sound in the engine at idle or low speed only when the hybrid battery is charging. If it's not charging the rattling noise doesn't come on. No error codes on that. I cleaned egr valve, nozzles, pc valve, inlet manifold, throttle body and changed plugs still the noise didn't stop. I beginning to think the problem is my transaxle. The MG1 motor that starts and charges the HV battery. Remember I said my car only rattles when the car is charging the HV battery on idle or low speed. Now the car cannot start. I am thinking of changing the whole engine including the transaxle. What do you think the issue is? My location is Lagos Nigeria
@@anivehussain change your damper clutch. It most have broken your the MG1 which kicks the car to start. So you are likely going to buy another transaxle and damper clutch.
@@preludethomas1061 ebay sells used prius ac compressor for 99 bucks. However to replace top cover only you have to remove thermostat at the top. To remove the whole unit you need to remove it from bottom of car and release freon. Let mechanic replace its gonna be 250-300. I sold my prius so didn't fix it :D
@@SethSchneiderw I ended up doing it myself, instead of removing the 2 smaller bolts near the Compressor control electrical connector, I removed the 3 slightly larger E9 or E10 female torx bolts holding the whole top plate on. I used an E10 socket but it may actually be an E9. FIRST pull the HV orange plug on the HV BATTERY in the rear cargo area to Ensure you aren't electricuted when you unplug the HV Orange cable going to the Compressor. At the Compressor, loosen the (3) E9 or E10 female torx bolts, I had to lightly tap the bolts with a hammer and apply alot of downward pressure to remove those bolts. Remove the HV orange cable from its retaining bracket and then slide the green retaining clip on the orange connector completely out. Then you can remove the connector and then the 3 bolts you loosened and the top plate is off. You can either try to fix the connector/pin or just replace the whole top plate. Hopefully that's helpful, I couldn't find that information anywhere so I did it myself.
@@preludethomas1061 thanks a lot for sharing what you did. I was able to bend the pin back into place with a lot of finicky pliers work, but I'm afraid that pin might snap because of all the bending. If it does I'll know how to approach it again.
@@SethSchneiderw You're welcome. People need to help each other out when they can. I did the same thing with bending the pin, unfortunately mine was bent too far and snapped right when it was about to be straight.
Hi, Do you have to remove MG1's stator in order to separate it from MG2? Are there any bolts on the inside, where the stator is, to hold them together?
Thank you for showing the inner workings of this compressor. I learned it is a scroll style compressor with a 3 phase motor to drive it. Both an excellent choice for longevity and reliability. Excellent demonstration!
Hey, doing one of these right now. Pulled the IPM off the surface the thermal paste is cooling and found the heat exchange surface to have been previously cleaned with an air tool causing deep grooves. I'm now concerned I need to replace it to address the groves from a previous repair. I cleaned it with isopropyl wipes and photographed the swirls
@@pashko90 ok, just for curiosity, thats a big deals for your time. Prius compressor is regular scroll compressor like in our high end home AC or heat pumps.
picclick.com/BGS-Tools-pro-Special-Socket-Wrenches-252709672577.html you can use this socket...if suitable...because this socket for remove defective nuts..be careful when you use this socket...i hope that can help you...thank you support my channel...
