Building cars, mostly from the couch, with use of 3D scanning, Fusion360, and some bloody knuckles sprinkled in.
Currently building a 2016 BMW i8 with a 13B-REW mated to a VAG 7 speed DQ500 DSG while retaining full hybrid functionality...or at least that's the plan.
Follow along as I overcomplicate a complicated BMW and nerd out on making it all work together.
Its not a crack. It's the partial outline of the passage from the rotor housing. The shapes of each casting dont perfectly align. It's just more pronounced on that side compared to the other.
A 13B has different sized primary and secondary ports. If you make the runner too large, you will lose intake velocity and negatively impact low engine speed performance.
I’ve found that when exporting meshes from some cad software; the angle from which you’re viewing the part at the time you export it can effect the resulting mesh
Very cool. FYI titanium is not well suited to exhausts at all, but 3d printing may help as webbing or extra wall thickness could be added in stressed areas. Inconel is choice though
I’m no advocate for titanium, but it is used by quite a few people. If they’re going to commit to that material choice, they at least have the option of adding 3D printing to the toolbox.
Could you PLEASE use EYE PROTECTION when TAPPING????? I have 2 customers with 1 eye left. 1 lost eye due to tapping . The other one lost an eye by lightly hitting a dowel pin back in place. PLEASE WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!!!
First of all mad respect for the time you spend thinking, 3D modeling etc. This is the real shit, this is a real build not bought car when finished. You earned yourself a new subscriber. At the and of the video you let us give you ideas About any Color for the intake manifold. You said powder coating but Maybe cerakoting it would maybe be the beter option. Here me out why, cerakote is excellent in keeping heat in the material itself prevending ir heat for example: turbo manifold, exhaust etc. But cerakote is not only excellent in keeping heat in the material itself but also heat protection, for example the ir heat created by the exhaust manifold, since its good in keeping heat inside the material itself also means it needs a lot of ir heat to pentrate the cerakote layer and start heating up the aluminium itself and thus automatecly heating up the air inside the manifold itself and hotter air means less oxygen less oxygen less fuel less fuel less bang less bang less hp. not saying That powder coating is a bad idea, but cerakote c series is aircuring instead of oven curing like poweder. And c series had the same strength as oven curing cerakote. And since all parts are already sandblasted what cerakote needs to bond maybe a thing to consider. Why you think, because the ir heat protection since the exhaust manifold and intake manifold are close to each other. Maybe considering cerakoting the exhaust manifold as of the part about keeping the heat inside the material, Sorry for my maybe sometimes wrong writen words Greetings from the Netherlands🚗💨
Well, I think you're planning better than my technique.....ruler, couple beers, guestamates, go for it, and figure it out as I go.... but then again that's probably why I've got a few unfinished projects laying around, LOL. I really love the way you're using modern technology to plan the entire build.
I work in the additive industry in SLM technology and it was very refreshing hearing and seeing your knowledge through out the video as you work with the printed parts you received. Metal AM is even more exciting for me when I see it in automotive application. Most definitely subscribing.
Those studs are going to be essential with your front engine mount. I was going to post on your last vid that there is a reason the REW has rear engine mounts. They reduce the torsional stress on the engine. These studs will go some way to compensate for the backwards mounting.
As someone who has been designing and developing his own 13B inlet manifold for the last year or so, this couldn't have come at a better time! While I was alreadly looking into getting some more intricate pieces printed and then weld everything to CNC machined flanges, the idea of printing the entire thing didn't seem in the realm of possibilities until now. Thanks for showing this, and keep up the good work!
How is the strength of printed aluminium compared to cast or machined billet? In other words, how much do you compensate for what I presume is a lower strength part?
I am very much interested in the thermal pressure and abuse this is going to see. Starting and ending measurments for the race season, i want to know how much it tweaks under abuse. Those welds on the heat exchanger have a tough job ahead of them. I would keep it at 18 lbs of boost briefly. 24 lbs put on your balistic saftey glasses, P= (2*T*S/D) for your weld should help. Ironically you have a license plate behind you that says bad idea.
@@CouchBuilt was looking for the weld strength, not the base metal strength. I'm digging through my college notes their is a different equation for weld strength under bost/heat.
@@invasivecoyote1361 Absolute weld strength isn't even worth consideration here. Most motorsports component weld failures under pressure are due to flex of the joined material over the weld joint itself. There's a reason you don't see any large flat surfaces, and the closest thing to a flat surface has convenient stiffening ribs as part of the logo. If temperatures in the intake are enough to alter the strength properties, the car is on fire.
@CouchBuilt I'm not banging on your door. Sorry if I came off that way. I very much appreciate your artwork. I'm just a fellow car hobbist such as yourself, and I have dabbled in making mainfolds, both intake and exhaust. Simply pointing out my past failures and experiences. I built an intake similar to yours except a BBC 454, and it blew a nice chunk out at the lake doing more than I should have asked of it.
@invasivecoyote1361 nothing taken offensively, just pointing out some details that others might be interested in response to your comments. Using sheetmetal for intakes puts significantly more stresses on welds. This is why you’ll often find vertical supports welded in large inline layout motor plenums to prevent flex, which would manifest as a blown weld.
Fu*" thats allot of work on the PC!! With all this data you have now gained, would you be able to do similar 3D build simulation with different motors?
That's not bad for a one off completely custom unit. Sheet metal custom IM are similarly priced and you don't have nearly as many weld points. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
Just found this series and I am all about it!!!! Been thinking about engine swapping an I8 and knew about the engine constraints. Just binged all your videos then also Robs 13b 700hp video. Any reason why your not going Nexus? I assume its the BMW support for the CanBus on Max. What are your HP goals, why EFR? Not that smallest turbo to put within a restricted space. Awesome to see another New Englander jumping into a project like this.
Maxxecu was primarily chosen because it has native control of the DQ500 trans over CAN, as well as a super flexible CAN and custom tables/maps. I like the EFR because its all self contained. My original plan was for an EFR9180, but it was on backorder at the time and this 8374 has an upgraded Bullseye Power batmowheel compressor. Looking to get around 500whp to start, then lean on it a bit harder and see where I reach the point of diminishing returns. Thatll be a good step up from the 220 or 230 the factory ICE makes, and the additional power from the hybrid components will be there as well.
Given that flatness and smoothness are not at all the same thing, are you pretty confident that the belt sander did a decent enough job creating a smooth surface on your mating surfaces that you wont have problems getting it to seal?
