We are the place you go to when you want to learn how to really tune. We don't teach the generic "EFI" tuning fluff. We only teach specific tuning -- meaning you will learn how to tune a specific manufacturer and software brand, with a process. We partner with the software manufacturers to provide the best possible knowledge and education for you. For example, you can learn how to tune GM Vehicles using HP Tuners in a beginners or advanced class with us; the same goes for Ford Vehicles with SCT Flash. In addition to this specific training, you will have a process to follow, which typically includes Bolt-On tuning, Heads/Cam and Forced Induction tuning procedures to follow. We take our job seriously, and we actually purchase vehicles to perform R&D on before we create any course materials. We also feature 1 FULL year of support with many of our courses. If you intend to learn to tune-you will need help. Let us help you learn.
My Holden SV6 has a badge saying SIDI with flex fuel written underneath. It's a 2012 model LFX Alloytec. I just put a tank of e85 in it. It definitely has more power. I normally just run 98 premium. I had to try it out though.
This video is old as hell!! But it still helped me. Originally, I calculated the speed VS shift RPM originally and entered the MPH based on the calculated RPM, but think my the rev/mi calculation is off by a few MPH vs actual road speed and i think the tune was overshooting the shift RPM, so it wouldn't trigger the shift properly. As soon as i dropped the WOT shift speed, my WOT 1-2 is bang on! Thanks!
Can you post a video where I can load the car software processed by the user in hptuner in .bin format? because there is no option tune your file or tune original files.
Static compression lowers volumetric efficiency. Of course there are advantages to having higher static compression, but lowering static compression to allow for more boost can actually make more power. There is a crossover point at which lower static compression starts making more power, it's different for every engine type, but it's generally around 15-20psi.
Yes but how much would it cost to change cam and headers if you took it to a shop? I have to wonder if you could trade the car for a faster car for less money?
Using the Fuel Tank Ring Tool to remove the lock ring instead using a punch and hammer is recommended by the manufacture to prevent damage to the lock ring.
Hey what does it mean when your channels are gray like the channels in your video? My channel for my wideband is showing up like that and when I start recording a log it’s goes away….i closed out vcm scanner and reopened it and the channel was still gray so now I can’t get a data log of my wideband for my tuner
On GM gen 4 and gen 5 with stock cams, I usually tune out the retard below 3000, but keep the upper rpm retard stock. This gives strong down low power and throttle response by removing the EGR effect but keeps HP climbing. Just have to remember to change the VC spark table afterwards. It seems on LS stuff the retard down low is mostly for emissions reasons.
Mann Just An Awesome Video and Very Helpful. Thank you!!! 💯💯 Do you have a video on fuel pumps lph to go with the injection size etc... I am working on a project car and I am trying to make sure I get things flowing together right.
I had a pretty bad misfire on my 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3. I hooked up my Bi-Directional scan tool and identified that cyl 3 was the culprit. I swapped plugs and coils and the misfire stayed on #3. I swapped wires and the misfire moved with the wire. I went out and bought a new set of Delco Wires. Truck is running very smooth and has noticeable increase in power. I decided to hook up the scan tool and just see how everything is doing. Showed #3 has 2 misfires at idle every few cycles or so. No problem under acceleration. I decided to tweak my HP Tune because I had used it to turn off DOD and to disable flex fuel. Disabling flex fuel would obviously make the truck have to compensate for the 10% ethanol, but I figured it would be well within the PCM's ability to a just the fuel ratio. I decided to tweak it to allow a parameter of 8%-11% ethanol because our fuel is supposed to have no more than 10%. I did this and took it for a drive. Everything sounds and feels good. I hooked up my Bi-Directional scan tool and it bounced around saying I had a couple of misfires per every couple of cycles on 2 and then 5 and then 3 and then 8. It would take a few cycles at idle to show anything. Each cycle was 99 revolutions. it would register a high of 4-6 misfires per cycle and a low of 2 misfires per every couple of cycles. I hooked up my HP Tuners to do a log because I wanted to have a longer history than 99 Revolutions. HP Tuners connected showed absolutely no misfires at all. The O2 sensors on the Bi-Directional scan tool stayed pretty consistent, but the O2 sensors on the HP Tuners showed the values jumping around substantially more. I took the truck for a good long drive with the HP Tuners logging to see if I could find a misfire but after a 20min drive around town and setting the cruise on back roads at different speeds and of course sitting idle still returned no misfires. I did notice the fuel trims also where more consistent although Bank one is always calling for more fuel. Bank 2 normally calls for .8% and bank 1 calls for 5-6%. Is it possible that the Bi-Directional scan tool is wrong. Maybe after changing the flex fuel settings, the trucks ECU needs to sort out what it needs? Any Ideas?
In Ca. We don’t have 93, only 91 ( unless you find the occasional 100 for $10/gal ) My VW GTI requires 93 for tune. Since we have e10 in our gas already, I run 3gal E85/ 9gal 91 and the mix gives me my 93 without messing my tune or fuel delivery system. Tune is happy and I don’t notice any noticeable drop in mileage.
A consistent ethanol content is more likely to mean bad gas station. The reason the Ethanol content in E85 varies is because of the seasons. When its hotter you can run more Ethanol than when its colder. One of the reasons being that ethanol has a much bigger cooling effect than normal gas. When its really cold outside starting your engine with a high ethanol content might become quite hard.
Im guessing oxygenated fuels might benefit n a cars more than boosted. Because boosted is cramming compressed air and oxygen into the cylinder and N a is just pulling in what a cylinder can draw in. Which is a very short window per. Cylinder. Oxygenated fuel will add just a bit more oxygen for a better burn that especially at high rpm an engine may not be able to get.
A MYSTERY !!! New motorcycle runs GREAT on 87 octane and Castrol 10W-40 synthetic oil. 600 mile service, still runs GREAT on 87 octane and Castrol 10W-40 synthetic oil. 1806 miles, 87 octane and Castrol 10W-40 synthetic oil. ENGINE KNOCKS. This time a Full tank of 93 octane and Castrol 10W-40 synthetic oil. STILL KNOCKS. This is on a Triumph bonneville 1200 engine. Seems to be a common occurrence on these all over the world. So it can’t be the gas or oil obviously. England had very high octane fuel but they still knock. We were thinking the cam-chain tensioner but the oil is always the same. High octane fuel doesn’t eliminate the knocking. Tried that myself just yesterday. The only thing I can come up with is a software problem with the ECU during the service at the dealership. Considering this is the common denominator because the bikes are serviced at different dealers in different countries BUT connected to the same mainframe in London to Triumph headquarters that effect the bikes that get ECU updates. From the information given in this video if the timing is off, or the mixture and the timing is off, the result is a misfire. What else could it be ????? Triumph tells us it’s normal but my these bikes run GREAT other than this knocking. People have tried valve adjustments, with no difference. Keep in mind these are NEW motorcycles. Help please ……..
Have you heard of mixing Gas Ethanol & Methanol together ? GEM ? Are people mixing this for more horsepower or just doing it for the environment? I got a recipe recipe. I want to try out… but if it’s not gonna give me more power, then I don’t really think it’s worth all the money to buy the fuels I need. Thx
E85 will make you lose 33% mpg... Butt its usually 1/2 the price of 93. Sooo it's actually a net gain in savings. Just make sure you drive long enough to evap the water in the fuel tank.
My 2009 silverado gets the same mileage with e85 as it does gas. Might be my driving or the fact that I don't get a chance to use e85 often as there isn't too many places where I live to get it and only use it on occasion
On a gen 4 (E38 ECM) there is a "delivered engine torque" and just "engine torque" anybody have any idea what the differences are? I added them both to the channels and did some driving, they seem to be about the same as far as I can tell?
