Headlights, some interior parts, springs, shocks, suspension arms, some electric stuff, all kinds of bolts and hardware. Some used stuff, like doors and hoods.
It’s a nice experience and atmosphere, and people coming so far to attend. All along the west cost you can spot the Saabs coming from other countries traveling towards Trollhattan. :)
Thanks, did a paint correction myself, got most of the swirl marks away, just takes so much time and patience. Then ceramic coated it, then I should maybe wax it to give it the final gloss. So it looks fairly good now, especially in the shade on camera. But it’s a 18 year old car with 353.000km, so if you look closer it’s far from perfect, but good enough for me :)
@@jobathano1660 why you peaple look on outside all the time? fenders and all visible body most is esay repleceable, you fight for few rust bublles, in reality underside can be completly rotten breaking car in half while visible pristine. that rust is nothing
I think drivers have gotten more used to it or lights like this. In 2016 a lot of people would flash because it maybe looked stronger, even though not blinding like with a regular highbeam :)
@@jobathano1660thanks for your reply and honesty! Well I’ve been on an led frennzzyy to say the least lately and I’ve found some interesting option and uses for them. My primary reason for even wanting to replace my license plates lights was because I have a sound system which draws a lot of power and causes dimming of all the lights and it’s a visual eye sore especially at night time. How I found to counter act this problem and mask the issue is by implementing the use of led bulbs in place of the Oem halogen . But not just any ordinary led, this includes osram& Philips, they are insignificant for my purpose, which is sad since they do provide some of the cleanest warm color temperatures that I’m after without being overly bright, which is the opposite of what most people seem to be after lol. I hate the super bright led look especially in a future classic car that never had any such equipment! The problem i found in my testing this last week with osram/philips bulbs was they are lacking the fundamental component inside them which a lot of other cheapo led bulbs actually do come with, I was just as surprised as you might be once you are made aware of this, they don’t have what’s called an “ Ic “. This ic is basically a current regulator chip that works on a wide range of voltages spanning from like 6volts-24volts. What it means is the light bulbs light output remains constant no matter if you are supplying it with 12v or 24v. These types of bulbs are perfect for what i was after. The only issue with them is they are extremely bright so what I did is basically point it 180degree in the opposite direction to where the heat sink is nearly pointing toward the ground in the case of the license plate lights and I’m able to achieve a near perfect illumination😁 actually depending on how much I rotate the bulb in the housing gives me a large window of output to set it at. And with meter I’ve actually set them to be just a tad dimmer than what the halogen bulbs were outputting so that way the copper got to really squint to read my plates or that Karen who’s trying to see me behind bars 😂 sorry this was so long but it could help someone who sits thru this mumbojumbo as I wish i had someone tell me this sooner I could have saved a month of trials* and tribulations 😂😂😂😂
Yes I get your point. There is a point where leds started to get too bright, applies to headlight bulbs as well. I don’t like them too bright either. Bulbs with a constant current regulator is better, as you say the output stays the same :) I think it will make the led last longer, but I guess rest of the components die first instead.
Nice review, these seem a good choice for simple install from a well established brand - in the UK some MOT stations are failing LED replacements and forcing you back to old xenon to pass the headlight test
If you’re going to do that, keep in mind that it’s recommended to choose high-quality film with self-healing properties and to have it installed by a professional to ensure it’s applied without bubbles or wrinkles that could affect light transmission, in order for your experiment to be fair.
I have not used it to much because of engine problems, so not so much mechanical wear. But put the boat back in today, still looks like when it was installed.
Very suspicious. How do you get perfectly rounded bulks that would precisely fit the plastic components.🤔 Did he hammer in the bulks just to test the product.🤔
So if I only replace the low beam bulbs to LED I dont need to wire them through a relay or a resistor? Im quite satisfied with the highbeam but the lowbeam is very poor.
hi I was Wondering I've a Saab 9.3 linear and I want to add the speakers into the doors on the front So I Bought the amp1 under the sete and installed 2 new speakers but its not Working and I see that I need to run a kabel from AMP1 to the Radio untie could you maybe in the future show how its done? :)
I bought h7 osram night breaker led for my car equiped with depo projector headlights paid 100 euro for led but it was dimmer than halogen 60% bad to bring back halogen also paid 90 euro for philips pro6000 h7 led also dimmer like osram i was very dissapointed i trew my money away do you have any recommendations for me thanks
I've been waiting for months now to see an honest and thorough review like this one. Thank you for uploading this video, very informative and entertaining!
No I did not, just loosened the radiator and condenser from the mounts to get more room, so the lines for the ac was still connected. So my ac still works.
The best option is to delete the bulb watch system with software, but it costs around 100$. Either from speedparts or maptun. But it’s the only good solution on these cars.
Yes I could have filmed it better. Basically you have a wire harness in your door, for speakers, window controls etc. if you don’t have these lights, you have a extra connector not connected to anything on the passenger side, you just plug the harness add-on into that connector. On the driver side, you have an add-on harness connected into that connector, because it goes to the door lock switch. But there is no loop and connector for the light, so you need to swap it with the new one. If confused, you will see it directly when taking it apart.
Thank you for info man ! Im checking Hedemora delplocken few times in year but its ultra poore , we have only 1 saab last year . If you have some knowlage about front shoks ( Stötdämparsats) i will be appriciate if you can reccomend something , brend etc. P.S.I born in Ukraine , last 7 years im work in Sweden , huge Saab fan . Mvh.
Yes it seems to be better here on the west coast, Alingsås, Falkenberg and Helsingborg. I don’t know about any other self service junkyards in Sweden, but I like Delplocken, good prices. It depends on what you want to do with your car I guess, but if you are not changing ride height, I think many recommend Sachs, and I think they are the OEM replacement.
Hey man! Your videos are super useful, thanks for sharing these a lot! I also have a 9-3 sportcombi and I'm trying to do a few upgrades here and there, but recently the door speakers randomly went out and I don't have any sound, but all the other speakers work, could this be because of amp1 or some other problem, like optical cables or fuses? Cheers, from Latvia.
Hello. Thx for the comment. :) Yes it’s probably the amp under the driver seat, it’s fairly exposed and often go. I have had no problem with my one, but even my one is a little bit rusty, so it does not like moisture.
I have the same problem where the speakers in the door suddenly do not work but in the dashboard they do. Did you switch the amp @turbone6028 ? Or what was your solution?
@@Sanibel03 Hey, still havent gotten to getting a new amp1, they are super expensive, I've noticed that the dashboard speakers also do work, but noticably the middle dashboard speaker doesnt - which is primarily linked with the amp1. If i remember, and if I get the replacement amp I will notify you. Rather strange, one idea that also may come into mind is to try the optical loop, the O-loop with the tech2, theres a diagnostic mode where the tech2 sends an optical signal to each audio component, and shows if it successfuly passes every component or gets stuck somewhere. Don't know if an issue might be there.
@@turbone6028 thanks for the feedback. I’ll try that out. I got a used amp off eBay für 80$. Gonna try it out when it arrives and let you know if that solves the issue
@@Sanibel03 woah great find, thanks aswell, and let's hope it works! Have to write this issue down somewhere because every forum seems to not give a definite answer
