My guy I need some mechanical help, we got the same exact car lol.....do you know anything about the heater control valve in these things? I need to change mines out, kinda figured you'd have some experience what stuff like that. If you can assist it'd be greatly appreciated
I only saw the heater control valve on the 1st Gen cls so ima have to get back to you on the weekend and im going to check it out on my car because the job is easy I just want to make sure that it's in the same location for our cars like on the 1st gen cls. But in the meantime when you do the job make sure you have some coolant because you will lose like a half of pint when you disconnect it and you put it back on and you do the bleeding process make sure you blast the heat when you burping the radiator
@daxkindle5154 Old wheel set up Front 19x9.5 /+22 offset/ 255 35 19 Rear 19x10.5 /+15 offset/ 285 35 19 New wheel set up Front 19x9.5 /+22 offset/ 255 30 19 Rear 19x10.5 /+15 offset/ 305 30 19
love the video! what about the airbags? I was thinking about buying a 2012-2015 cls550 with high mileage for 12-15k chip it and ride with 500 horse power...for cheap lol
Well surprisingly my airbags did not deploy when I got in the accident, and just make sure you get the maintenance records on this car and make sure you keep up with maintenance. It's a very reliable and fun car
@@Mercenary_MaL I'm actually having trouble remembering exactly, because they make different versions for different engines, and they are also confusing in how they work! The oem setup should be that air flows from the little tubes on the intake (between the filters and turbos), into the engine. Only under boost would air flow in reverse. As long as blow-by is low, it won't blow any oil out and into those intake tubes. On mine those lines are bone dry. I know you checked yours, so if there was oil you need to figure out why you have blowby, or maybe the PCV is not working right? On the back of the centrifugal PCV dealie, pointing towards the intake, there should be a tube going directly to the intake. That's where oil gets sucked into the engine, and where you want a catch can. It's buried back there, but look/feel for it. It connects to the closest point on the intake about level with the top of the throttle blade. It not only can catch oil better there, but it can also catch any leakage at the PCV itself, when the seal fails and bleeds oil. I wanted to put a catch can on mine years ago, but never did, because I'm lazy. And back then is the last time I looked, so I'm going on memory here.
what are you running for the lowering on it? just some lowering arms in the back and coilovers upfront like most others? because thats what im looking at.
You don't know how bad I want to do a burnout in this car lol but its almost done just have to straighten the frame and bend my hood alil more then its done, it would have been finished but I'm always busy at work and I just bought another truck for the channel
Just for curiosity, how this check valve create the ptoblem with low bost? Getting stuck / clogged and does not allow the oil to drain back to engine? But how the ECU will know that and open bypass? Or this is not oil line but air line? And if this is air line why oil is in there?
If the check valve gets clogged up or broken that definitely can mess with the airflow of the vacuum pump, really doesn't take much to mess up airflow for a vacuum pump. Now for the ECU that may have something to deal with the vacuum pump if the check valve doesn't fixes the code. A d I'm not sure why it be oil on it, I'll have to do more research on why it does that and o get back to you
The default is full bypass, as you call it, or wastegates fully open. This vacuum is the only thing closing the wastegates. Unplug the vac line to it and take it for a drive and you'll see. When you start loosing vacuum because this valve starts failing, gets torn or whatever, you lose power. You may not notice if it's just a little power, so you need to monitor what's going on to see if the ECU is happy with the vacuum it has, or not. It's normal to have a little bit of oil in the vac line just past the valve, and I do mean little. If you pull the line at the solenoid and see oil, that valve is shot.
Lol I'm just a regular RU-vid mechanic, I did go to school for this in high school. Part 2 should be coming out like in a month or two, I work on the car any chance I get since im always busy at work
This thing will never solve turbo low boost issue. This is another none sense video made to make money. Don't spend your time with this crap. Low boost issue is always requires an expensive repair.
I dont tolerate negative engery on my channel just a fair warning so 😂lol its only $10 so worth a try to see if it helps the issue before going into more expensive fixes, if you still having issues with the boost then replace or clean the boost controller which is another cheap and easy fix
This check valve is a very common failure point for this and the M157, and it causes low boost when it fails. People do need to be wary of what replacement valve they get because the cheapo chinese ones I've seen are lame. To get peak possible boost I broke down and bought a whole quality pump just to scavenge the valve off it. So an fyi to anyone buying a $10 valve, check your boost, or better yet, check your turbo duty cycle to see if the valve is good enough or not. The more boost you want, and the quicker you want it to spool, the better that valve needs to be.
everything about this stresses me out. The generic tires, the stretch on the tires because they are not wide enough, the chips out of the grille paint making you decide to put something new on before even fixing it, not even cleaning the bottom of the bumper before installing that. so much..
@@Mercenary_MaL you not caring is literally the point lol. You dont care about anything, including your car, or quality. But sure, keep trying to feel cool or wealthy while knowing you don't have the focus, energy, or dedication to actually be
It's ok if the valve itself is oily because the pump side had oil flying everywhere and it gets on the valve, which will e dripping wet when removed. What you don't want to see is a lot of oil in the vac line between the valve and solenoid it goes to. If oil gets as far as the solenoid then the valve is not only bad, it's probably disintegrated. That valve is very delicate and will fail, it's just a matter of when. I'd check it at every oil change, or any time you think power is lower than normal. I'd replace it regardless if the car has 50k or 5yrs on it.
Yup it fit right on, but what I did was used the self tapping screws on the inside of the Diffuser and screwed it the inside of the bumper so the only way you can see the screws is if you take the bumper off
That depends on which wheels you get that determines the offset, I spent around $400 for these wheels, I Got them from a pro drifter in Florida on the marketplace
Just found the channel after being recommended your spark plug vid, recently acquired my own '14 CLS550, vids are definitely nice to watch to just see what to expect doing all the routine maintenance, now gonna watch the lowering link vid, since I just ordered a set about 2 days ago 😂. Appreciate your work, boss man
I appreciate it, definitely have alot of videos coming up, I haven't uploaded any videos because im waiting to get this wreck job done, I'm like 85% finished just waiting on a few parts and wrap, I'm aiming for May for everything to be finished
I agree it definitely do look cheap, ima have to tell my buddy to take his off his benz also, I'm glad when I got in that accident it ripped the lip off, I won't be getting another one with my new bumper
@@Mercenary_MaL Oh ok bcuz I bought hat same one of eBay for my CLS 550. But once I realized I have to drill str8 into the bumper I said nah nvm. Was afraid I'd crack the bumper and cause a ripple affect all the ways across it.
