Just one point about your method of disengaging and re-engaging your feed gears Geoff. It will work fine for disengaging them, but what your doing when re-engaging them is your bottoming out the teeth in both gears that mesh together. Spur gears are never designed to run with a zero clearance setting like that. And that's also part of the reason you may be getting extra noise from them. A very simple method of setting the gear backlash to a known clearance each time is to just use a strip of paper between the teeth or the two gears as there squeezed together by hand. Since paper comes in a variety of thicknesses, then experimenting a bit with that different thicknesses should get you a gauge depth you can use where the gearing will be a lot quieter and wear far less. Frankly the lathe manufacturer's do a very poor job of even mentioning this very simple method or even explaining why it needs to be done. I hope that helps. Some well thought out modifications other wise, and a few I'm planning on copying on my lathe that's a bit larger.
Pete, if you look at timeline 3.16 it shows a second stop to set the depth of gear mesh. I find this mod very useful as it allows me to use the leadscrew by handwheel. There's lots of potential to modify this lathe and I think we enjoy that as well as making things.
Lovely looking engine. I hear the Stuart Score engine is basically two 10H models combined into a twin. I have been given a selection of old 10H castings including two sole plate/standard castings and I'm thinking of building a twin by making a custom box bed but with the flywheel in the centre location rather than on one end of the crank..
Sounds like an interesting project, you will need to keep everything in alignment. I have just fitted a new flywheel to this engine and found it would run without a flywheel, that's the beauty of two cylinders.
Hi Geoff. I added two over-run fans to my lathe, one for the motor enclosure and one for the electronics. They run off a bathroom fan timer. You are a very neat worker and clearly put a lot of thought into your modifications. Glad you site came up. Liked and sub'd.
Thanks for your interest, I looked a my notes and can see @ 100 rpm it needs 2psi and @ 300rpm it needs 3psi , I have now added the Stuart flywheel which looks better.
I have just do.every across your site and subscribed.I have a WM240 so can use a lot of your great mods on it ,if that's ok Great site will look forward to more of your work.Regards Mike
Thanks for your comment, I find having a workshop and hobby very rewarding now I have learnt not to worry how long things take there's always something to do.
Thanks for your comment, if your a practical person you can't help notice when a design could be better and this vice had plenty of scope for improvement as good as it is.
Hi I don't sell plans but in my other video thicknesser part 2 I have written some dimensions on the parts, you do have to use some metalwork skills but if you inventive you will succeed.
Hi Geoff I believe you informed me of the drive pulley mod on the WM180 whilst I was on another you tube channel. Brilliant idea of yours. I haven’t got round to doing the mod yet. Have you made any other mods for example to disengage the gear train or reverse lead screw for left hand threads. Would be very interested to know. Thank you.
Cool little set of customs jaws but your pin holes on top are going to get plugged with shaving also your washer holding slit should have less material under it so you do t cut into you jaws. Nice start but needs improvements to make them long term usefulness
Thanks for the comment Tommy, I have this setup for a few years and have no trouble with the holes clogging, I found my new jaws so useful i just thought i should share it. of course you can always skim over them when they get damaged which i have done here.
