Welcome to the universe of Macro Photography! Or, as I like to call it: The Giant World of Tiny Things.
This channel is all about Macro and Close-Up Chotography, Creative Concepts and Tipps, Tricks & Techniques. I release new videos every Friday at 2pm PST and can't wait to read your comments! Much love, Max
Hi Max, wonderful idea and a super detailed process of making the setup. Thanks and appreciate the effort, i have one question. Cant we use the filter on directly with the existing filters of the speedlight?
I was thinking about taking pictures using UV light, and after watching this video, I think I found light in the darkness. This is a really great video. Was the camera shot using only a speedlight and filter without any modifications? Is it possible to check whether sunscreen has been applied to the skin through this photo shoot?
I seem to be unable to get the shot ... Om-1, 60mm macro, fl700 speedlight, iso 640 ... f5.6 snd 1/100s ... all the ingredients are there, but my image is too dark
There's another technique related to this, using direct light rather than incident light: With your flash off camera and facing straight into your lens, you cross two linear polarisers so no light enters the lens, then place your translucent to transparent subject between the flash and the lens to photograph (you need to uncross the polars to focus then cross to shoot). The result is a black field with the subject showing up wherever the light passing through it was depolarised and thus able to enter the lens. The technique is called dark field photography and doesn't work with circular polarisers. A lot of photomicrographs use this technique, but works for anything translucent.
I'm finding the angle is very important in diffusing. If you get it wrong, your lens can cast a shadow on the bottom of your subject, and taking shots at certain angles can give nasty specular highlights. It seems better to go from above and light downwards. This is why the pop up flat diffusers that sit on a lens are no good. I modified one to have a cone from the flash to the diffuser with tinfoil inside and it made it worse with reflections. I'm going to redesign it with this method, as others have shown good results also
Hi, I have a question. I have a mp-e 65 mm macro lens and I was trying to find a way to increase the magnification to 10x. Your idea to use the teleconverter seems interesting, but I haven't seen any video online about this possibility. Further, all the teleconverter companies says that it is not possible to use in combination with the mp-e lens. I was close to buy a Kenko teleconverter 2x, but they say in their chart that it is not compatible at all. What do you think, have you ever tried such configuration? thanks
I have a Nikon D500 with a 105mm f2.8 macro lens. equipped with both the 2x nikon teleconverter and the battery grip it makes the whole setup quite unyeildy especially now that I am also considering getting a flash to go on top of it. I like to take pictures of live bugs and flowers. I was considering returning the 2x teleconverter because of this but I like the idea of having the options of getting higher magnification or more working distance. what are your opinions on this? I am also looking to get a tripod, and since I can get a big discount on the peak design tripod while using other accessories from them I am highly considering it. I do have concerns with that as well regarding ball head movement, ease of setting up without disturbing or scaring the subject, as well as being able to easily setup the tripod somewhere that might not be ideal. Also, regarding the flash, do you think the Godox V350 will be sufficient? It will be my first flash and I will need to learn from scratch on how to use it.
Hi! I am new to photographing. I use a Sony RX100 M3 camera. I would like to focus stack images of an orchid so all parts of the flower would be crisp and sharp. Would you please tell me what settings did you use? If I understand right, you used a setting where the focus of the camera automaticaly moves from near to far while shooting fast photos. How could I do the same on my camera? Thank you!
This guy must have nerves of steel to be able to hold everything steady enough to freehand a sufficient number of photos to stack. While I do not have a serious case of essential tremors (ET) at present, I doubt very much that I could accomplish this task with the small amount of ET that I do have. Also, if one is using freehand for the macro photographs, does not this change the size of the subject as it (and/or the camera) is moved back and forth, and/or (to some degree) the angle of the photo? I have software that will stack photographs (it isn't Photoshop), but if the subject changes size, or the angle of the photograph changes, the software rejects that photo for stacking. Is this not a problem in Photoshop using this technique to photograph a subject? I would think that a monopod would be a great advantage with this technique of taking macro photographs. It would help steady the camera, and with the right model, it would be small and lightweight to carry.
Hi, im not an expert Thats why i cant try it myself, but im trying to work out if 2 cheap extention tubes could be connected with wires on the contacts to become a reverse macro autofocus adapter Do you think thats possible?
I have to say these are the best designs I've seen for DIY. Not to mention save you as much as $500 at least on a comparable ready built one. And I like the diffuser idea. Because you could actually take the lids for your plastic containers and insert different color diffusers or refraction patterns.
Hi! so happy I stumbled upon this video! thank you first of all for sharing with us all this precious info. Can you please share with us some tips on how you made your head rest tool for your tripod?
Hi, I can't find the water drops you use in the video. I saw your link but on the Amazon Italy site, there is nothing similar except with the hole to use it as a decoration. Do you have any suggestion about it? Thanks bye