My buick terraza is also doing that in reverse and in drive. Not in park or N. but it wont move at all in reverse or drive, just that extremely loud noise. WHAT IS IT. It has transmission fliud in it aswell.
Fuxking GM cars are so fuxk up, never again will I ever buy one, its my first and would be my last,. Cadillac all have serious problems. I only had Japanese and tough I would get this Cadillac, nothing but fuxking trouble all the time, po641, and other issues, then it will bring up few other problems, wtf..car
No, see my pinned comment. At 11:19, you can see a big plastic wire harness. One of the wires had come out of there and rubbed on the engine enough to scrape the plastic coating off and intermittently short out. My mechanic put some tape on it, tucked it back into the harness and taped that up. Less than $100, which seems pretty exorbitant for some tape, but probably the cheapest repair bill I've ever had.
Hole in the brake line, not the booster there is not supposed to be any fluid in the booster. The master cylinder would empty out after two pumps at that rate. All the pumping you had your wife do, you should have topped off that master cylinder before you started. You probably emptied the master cylinder and sucked up a BUNCH of air and that's creates s big misty cloud coming out of the hole in the line. Anyway stick your hand down there and find the leak, which tube is broken. You can either cut a section out and replace a small section, or do the right thing and replace the line back to about the drivers seat under the truck if its the back brakes, if its the front, replace the entire line. It sounds like you don't have a huge amount of Technical skills so this may be a job for a shop or a friend that has the tools and knows how to splice brake lines. If you do it wrong you could die if your solution pops off under hard braking, like a Mack truck comes across the road in front of you.
Brake fluid has a very high flash point. You can lite a match and toss it in a bottle and it will extinguish the match. If the motor isnt running you cant use the booster, you have to do it with the engine running.
That has more shit fluid you should get all that out do a brake flush you can tell master or booster is leaking get a new booster it all looks like shit id replace booster lines and cylinder at least the rusty lines
I have a 2007 Silverado 4x4 doing the same exact thing. Please let me know if you found out what the problem was? Mine is intermittent, it doesn't do this all the time.
At 11:19, you can see a big plastic wire harness. One of the wires had come out of there and rubbed on the engine enough to scrape the plastic coating off and intermittently short out. My mechanic put some tape on it, tucked it back into the harness and taped that up. Less than $100, which seems pretty exorbitant for some tape, but probably the cheapest repair bill I've ever had. Almost a year later and no issues.
You didnt pay 100$ for tape, you paid 100$ for a mechanic to get your car in, check it out, find the problem and fix it. That's cheap for the time involved
At 11:19, you can see a big plastic wire harness. One of the wires had come out of there and rubbed on the engine enough to scrape the plastic coating off and intermittently short out. My mechanic put some tape on it, tucked it back into the harness and taped that up. Less than $100, which seems pretty exorbitant for some tape, but probably the cheapest repair bill I've ever had.
@@tonyditola6749 Mine ended up being the harness that loops around the front driveshaft. I have a 4WD truck, and i had installed a stall converter and when i reinstalled my trans, i forgot to clip the harness onto the bracket, causing it to rub on the driveshaft and burn some wires through
@@tonyditola6749 you didn’t pay $100 for some tape. You paid $100 for a professional to find that specific spot/wire. Extremely fair if you ask me! If you had found it and taped it yourself then cool $5 and it’s fixed!
It's the rear planetary gears they are shattered same thing happened to me I bought a transfer case and it did the same thing thought it was transmission so bought a rebuild kit took trans apart and seen that they was in pieces for and old trans from a friend and got the planetary gears from it and rebuilt trans and now it shifts smooth and the rest of it is fu--ing going to shit
Had the same noise when shifting in reverse sometimes. I installed a Transfer Case Saver and it seems like my problem is fixed! I uploaded a movie to describe the procedure; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YoA7g90GCqU.html Easy to do yourself and not expensive!
It's your booster. Had to replace mine at 198k. Hardest part is getting the clip off/ on at the pedal. Master cylinders don't rust like another poster said. The seals between the reservoir and cylinder will also go bad. If the pedal went to the floor then it's the booster. $90
JOHN E BOB did replacing the booster solve the pedal sinking . Mine is a 96 k1500 I got cut off slammed the brakes real hard and since then Ive had a hissing noise coming from the booster when my foots on the break I replaced my master cylinder and the pedal sinks and they are double pump breaks right now just wondering if the booster was your problem because before my breaking wasnt the best . I have one on order right now .
If the booster were the problem you wouldn't see fluid spraying out. The fluid is sucked into the intake via the 3/4" vacuum line from the intake manifold to the vacuum booster when the diaphragm tears causing the pedal to sink. Then the massive vacuum from the hole in the diaphragm sucks brake fluid past the seal at the back of the master cylinder and into the intake manifold and it gets burned. And if left long enough will bur the seats or seating face of the exhaust valves. Thats a cracked or pinhole brake line leak.
I have a 96 5.7 gmc pickup and it was doing the same thing, took it to the shop and after getting the trans rebuilt ( damage to the sun case) it continued to make the same noise both in reverse and at acceleration from a stop. It turns out so far at least, that there is a snap ring in the transfer case that will disintegrate at cause the chain and everything to push the driveshaft out by a bit and cause that chain grinding noise and not allow reverse to engage all the way. In mine there was just enough of the ring left to allow it to stay in place the majority of the time and cause intermittent issue and noise, there is a better quality snap ring out on the market to fix this issue and is like 60 or so bucks. Hope this helps
I have an 07 gmc sierra 1500 new body style and its doing the same thing it also will sometimes read 0 on mph and trans wont shift out of first till you make a complete stop and it resets it it also at low speeds the abs kicks on
I have not taken it in to the mechanic to have it checked out, but my guess is the transmission. Since it's not a daily driver, I'm not going to put any more money into it. However, if the trans does fall apart, I make an attempt at fixing it myself.
Everything Im feeling here is this... Its teetering between park/reverse I have a feeling its the linkage in need of adjustment. Like when your using reverse, its starting to slip into park.
im working on it now. I will update what I have eliminated etc. flex plate=perfect condition (one of the possible problems) drive lines front and back=solid. no movement. U joints good. One thing, Before this happened there were 2 things that happened. 1) I had been hearing an increasingly louder clunk when going over speed bumps coming from beneath the truck. 2) the morning of the day it started - I used the 4wd to get out of a gravelly driveway in reverse. that afternoon this problem began. ???? I will write in when I get further.
same here - EXACT same sound. I get a bit of grinding sound if I take a sharp corner as well but the reverse does exactly the same thing in your video. I NEED HELP!
The grinding noise when you take a turn could be your CV joint or wheel bearings. But I'm convinced that the sound in this vid is from the trans. Just can't justify the cost of getting it fixed yet.
man, im in the same boat. I was quoted $2600. A local shop said it was the transfer case. It has never did that before, but the day it started, in the morning I used 4wd to get out of my driveway. by after noon when I got home this started. The shop said they thought the 4wd didnt disengage all the way and it was the transfer case. thats as far as i have got. did you use your 4wd around the time it started?
the mechanic said the transfer cases were build poorly with some plastic teeth? and they can get worn or broken??? plastic??? I dunno... A rebuild kit is about $100. its worth a shot.
I've only used the 4wd a few times in winter with deep snow. Mainly I just use it as weekend hauler for wood and lumber (I'm a hobbyist woodworker). The issue is very intermittent, so as long as it gets me out of my driveway, I'm not going to worry about it too much. If it starts causing other issues, I may take it to a mechanic to get it properly diagnosed. I used RU-vid videos to figure out how to replace the head gasket. I'm sure I can find some videos to help me through whatever the problem is.
Sorry for the delay in answering everyone's question, but I was only recently able to reproduce the noise when someone else was with me. My dad was able to confirm that it was not the fan hitting the shroud, but was coming from under the truck in the general vicinity of the transmission. So I still don't know what exactly it is, but it is NOT the fan.
Tony DiTola yes sir, its in the trans and only takes about and hour or 2 to fix. that is if you know what you're doing lol easy fix. i just had mine rebuilt because the planetary gear broke. it sounded just like this when it broke but only had first gear.
So that means it'll take me about a month of uninterrupted shop time. That's how good I am. If I do ever get around to fixing this, I'll update the video. Thanks!
I have not figured out what it is. I have not been able to reproduce it since. I suspect that it might be a broken motor mount that is causing the fan to hit the plastic cowling near the radiator.
Tony DiTola son of a b**** I have the same problem my truck grinds when I put it in reverse and also driving forward at 15 20 miles an hour it goes away and I'm able to drive my truck around town local areas the problem is the transfer case bearing is screwed up inside you need to pull out the front little drive shaft connected to the 4 wheel drive disconnect it and that will give you your answer believe me I tried it and my noise was gone I still drive my truck even though I have a two-wheel drive now cuz I disconnected the drive shaft that works for the four-wheel drive Triad bud and watch it work yeehaw
Chevy hasn't used steel master cylinders since the 50's, so it would be hard for an aluminum master cylinder to rust out. The booster diaphragm is rusty, but that metal is about 1/4" thick, and there is no brake fluid in the booster unless the seal on the master goes. Thats a pin hole or fine crack in a brake line.
The video shows a stream coming up from the bottom near where your hard lines attach to the frame below the steering shaft and hitting the bottom of the booster. I know this is 2 years old, did you ever fix it?
mines doing the same thing a friend told me to replace my brake booster since these supposedly don't have the traditional seal between the mater cylinder and the booster. Im not sure if they are right another friend a mechanic at walmart i work with said bull just replace the rubber seal at the master cylinder let me know what you think mine is a 99 gmc k1500 suburban with the same exact engine and setup as yours
ALL BOOSTERS ARE is a vacuum assist. There is a 3/4" ID vacuum hose from the intake manifold that connects to the booster, when you push the brakes pedal, the vacuum pulls the diaphragm inward, making it easier to push the pedal and gain a more controlled braking action. If that rubber diaphragm tears you will have smoke coming out the tail pipe and your exhaust vales will burn as you will suck brake fluid out of the master. ALL master cylinders have a seal at the back, but that vacum is strong and will suck the brake fluid past the seals.
HELLO I JUST FINSH WATCHING YOUR VIDEO ...YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOTER TOO AND SOME NEW LINES DON'T FORGET TO BLEED ALL SYSTEM WITH NEW BRAK FULD ..GOOD LUCK
@@charlesbitherjr5895 Why replace the master cylinder? This is a hole in a brake line. The booster is not bad, just rusty. clean it up and spray it with Rutsoleum Bed-liner paint. Replace the bad line. Dont go spending $500.00 to $800.00 on hardware that isnt broken. God, you stick your hand down there and run it along each line while someone pumps the brakes slowly and you will find a pinhole or crack.
