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That's not Micarta. It's G10. Also, blade coating is super shiny and nothing like the original. While it may be good for opening packages, I doubt it would do well in the field.
I compared this knock-off knife with the original one and I can promise they seem almost identical. the scales are matte, grippy and 3d textured, I can see the fibers. it is definitely micarta. in the field I presume the overall quality and the steel heat treatments of the original Spyderco would be better but for EDC the price difference is not justified in my opinion.
Interesting. I do not have that notch as yours on my crossbow and would have to use the butt end?? for the cocking rope to slide over. It being a semi hard rubber butt not sure how that would work? Has anyone tried over the butt end and how did that go?
yes, if you don't have the notch the butt end could be an option. but if the rubber on the butt end is too soft the rope of the cocker can cut it. an other (probably better) option is to file a notch in the hard wood or plastic butt using a small round fine file. the file should have a diameter slightly bigger than the rope of the cocker. be patient, work slowly and remove the material evenly and the result will be good looking too.
you're welcome! I have an older recurve crossbow without the notch as well. I'll do a new content on this "notch improvement" as soon as possible. stay tuned!
I did the same but I had to blunt my bolt tips with angle grinder to stop it from penetrating all the way through. I have the same crossbow as you. Greetings from Croatia.
yes, you can buy the discs but they are more expensive and you can o can not find all the grits you may need. I made some discs from extra fine grit paper and they work great!
Ho dei pori di ruggine nel metallo da pulire e anche calamina da dei tubilari prima di verniciate ecc,cosa mi conviene usare?prima disco fibra poi uno spazzola?avevo provato a fosfatare.sabbiatura casalinga?
si, il disco di fibra è un po' più aggressivo quindi userei prima quello e poi quello a spazzola per togliere i segni del disco di fibra prima di verniciare il pezzo
So it is OK to remove the guard in that one case where the wheel wasn't fitting? I just encountered that today and thought I was going crazy. I couldn't get a 4.5 inch wheel into a 4.5 inch angle grinder.
You already know that Man Kung also makes bows and crossbows for major brands like Tenpoint and Barnett. I also have 2 crossbows like the Man Kung Xb56 Frost Wolf and a Horizone. It makes no difference which is better, both hit the center of the target at 70 meters. A friend of mine has a Raven and even there there is no difference in hit rate that justifies the $1200+ price difference
I totally agree with you. the price difference is huge but the performance difference is very small. I presume the top brands crossbows, having an overall higher quality construction would last longer. that's all in my opinion
Vorrei costruirne uno o acquistarne uno li vendi ? Altrimenti se non c'e traduzione proverò guardando il video ciao grazie PS potrei avere misure della barra alluminio😊
no, non li vendo. ne ho fatto uno per me e lo uso. farlo non è difficile, quello che è difficile è trovare un pezzo di alluminio ben spianato da cui partire. se guardi il video vedrai che è piuttosto semplice in fondo. metti i sottotitoli in italiano e dovrebbe essere perfettamente comprensibile. per le misure ti consiglio due pezzi di alluminio 300x60x25mm. più le barre sono lunghe più pallini puoi fare per ogni colata di piombo.
sure, the company was Simav Napoli but is dead long ago. you can find some of these knives in the Italian flea markets if you want one. that's how I got mine.
thank you Slinger! I'm glad you like it. the difficult, to me, was to find a good, flat piece of alumunum bar, then it was only basic light machinery work.
you need a press to replace the string or the cables of a compound bow or crossbow. If you have a welder it's quite easy to make one. Look at this other content: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aol_NAK_LfA.html
Ottima idea, peccato per le cerniere che potrebbero danneggiare le punte (poco male, comunque). Ora ne devi inventare uno per le punte da caccia a lame fisse 😁!!
mah, guarda, in realtà le cerniere sono abbastanza fuori dall'area in cui si concentrano i tiri, non ho mai avuto danni alle punte. un'accortezza che conviene avere è quella di togliere i bottoni di metallo dai jeans che metti nel trolley... quelli potrebbero effettivamente danneggiare le punte ma ci vuole un attimo a tagliare via il pezzo di jeans. e per le punte da caccia con le lame credo che l'unica sia il PVC morbido.
@@gianluca666 Sì, io uso questo metodo da molto anni, al posto del trolley uso sacchi di juta o nylon, ma il contenuto è lo stesso. Compro da Rivolta Archery gli stracci industriali compressi sotto vuoto, perché non hanno né cerniere nè bottoni, mi costano un po' di più che usare vecchi vestiti ma tribolo un po' meno nella preparazione del bersaglio. Per le punte da caccia si può usare una "montagnetta" di sabbia, se non deve essere spostata. Io, a volte, ho usato scatoloni di cartone, sempre riempiti di stracci, lasciati aperti nella parte superiore, in modo da poter "trovare" la punta da caccia, svitarla e rimuovere la freccia od il dardo dallo scatolone 😁.
@@gianluca666 Di nulla, il problema è che lo scatolone non sopporta molti tiri, e tende anche a sfondarsi sul lato posteriore, per farlo durare un po' di più si può rinforzarlo esternamente con del nastro da pacchi, oppure internamente con una tavoletta di compensato della giusta misura 🙂..
no, there is no metal core in the arms. they are ok for me. no need to adjust them and I have a small skull. hot water could work but I did not tried it.
First part was very good, though, second part we can't see clearly what tou did. Colored wires, would have been way easier to see where everything goes.
I bought a few flapper discs but I couldn't use em coz the center wasn't gonna cave in to the backing pad that i fitted on..the backing pad that i have the side that the flapper disc will lie on has like a shallow hollow curve... I was thinking about cutting lines at the center like how you did in the video to the flapper discs you made but I didn't know if it was safe...but now that I've seen your video, I'm going to definitely cut mine...
start making short cuts. then, only if it is still not flexible enough, make them longer and longer. be patient and you'll get the job done! and always use personal protection devices!!!!
the orange is beatiful to me and has a good visibility in case you loose it in the woods but I prefer the brown too! the black is very "tactical". I can add a high visibility lanyard if needed. :)
when I bought it there was also the orange version... something like this one: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006022175765.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.85.2556SZAwSZAwH4&algo_pvid=9382941c-5307-4efa-bac6-07c5e94af265&algo_exp_id=9382941c-5307-4efa-bac6-07c5e94af265-42&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2124.36%2115.83%21%21%21183.00%21%21%40211b88f016965129575374138e0dc4%2112000035362076742%21sea%21IT%212263707502%21&curPageLogUid=0TrBsPWXYT3d
great! thank you for your comment and for your test. if the blades are still closed after the impact you have to change the dental floss you are using with some thinner one or bette sharpen the blades. they should be able to cut the dental floss easily! you can also use a differnt line as cotton stiching line that is much more easy to cut. anyway with razor sharp blades the dental floss works great for me.
the wooden thing is only a sawhorse but you can use a table or a workbanch, a vise. as long as it is stable it doesn't matter. on the other hand the "green device" is the crossbow press and is made out of square steel pipes.
yes, I can say it is waterproof even if it is not but I don't. I pay the full price for the bag, I have no sponsorship. my reviews are all true. I do not gain anything making my content. all I want is to give you my real considerations and this bag is a good one for me.
