Hi, Seroj, I have a doubt doubt! around 1:55, before breather plate you set a flat and wave washer, but instead of them, in the bmw diagram there is a spring, and a cover disc for engine breather, and after the breathe plate an snap ring. I'm confused. Is this a modification for later models? What's the right set?
Hello.out of interest as you are rotating the engine by hand is the points cam moving at the same rotating speed as the crank .(is an unusual project I’m doing 😀😀)thanks Paul
On m’y R69S, there are 6 spacers between the pressure plate and the outer pressure ring. Very difficult to install with this method. I found that the three bolts are not necessary for reinstalling the clutch. The flat head screws can be installed directly.
The re assembly is way off. First, never put sealer anywhere near a bearing. Second, that main bearing is not completely seated into the cover. You can tell by the extra effort to make the dog gear turn. You need heat to remove AND install the cover onto the bearing! Also, tapping on cover to seat the bearing puts the load onto the bearings outer race. No bueno. Heat the cover and let the bearing drop into it by putting the final drive dog side down.
Appreciate the feedback and look forward to seeing your video of the correct assembly. Instead of a dab of hylomar to hold the shim I usually use a sticky grease. And I agree that heat is your friend in removing and installing the cover to minimize loading the outer race of the bearing.
@@serojterian No worries. Another trick while the cover is heated is to smack the Final drive down on a couple of blocks of wood dog gear facing down. This seats the main bearing into the cover all the way against the shims. Not something you want to film in case you lose your grip! LOL.
Bonjour, à tout hasard : auriez-vous s'il vous plait une vidéo sur le remontage de la colonne de direction R50/2? Merci d'avance de votre retour, bien cordialement et très bonne journée, Mr HENRY-------Hello, just by chance: do you please have a video on reassembling the R50/2 steering column? Thank you in advance for your return, best regards and have a good day, Mr HENRY
Hi Seroj, best regards from Germany, Cologne and thanks for your precise procedure to reassemble a R60/2 motor. It did it myself in the nineties, under guidance of a experienced friend in Eindhoven with my BMW R50/2 (cause: the slugde pipes were full of crap and had been demolishing the barings, not a fine sound). He made all the necessairy tools on a lathe. It cost us a few evenings till deep into the night. I prepared with Clymers guide the whole process with sketches, to rehears every step. Then at the final act (heating the Motorcase in a gasoven till 150 degrees) I made a significant mistake by changing the oilpump-gear position, above to downward and vice versa. Everything perfect, but the oilpumpgear was false reassembled. So we had to do the whole procedure again (costly, I had to buy new bearings and seals), then it works out smoothy. I wished I had such a guidance as yours in those days. But that was before the RU-vid-Era.
@@chrisoomen1240 Danke. I'm sure those are good memories, except for reversing the oil pump gears! We're all still learning no matter how much we already know.
Thanks so much for the very instructive videos on the adventure I am about to endeavor in the next days. But: didn't you forget a gasket between the engine block and the timing cover? Cheers and have a great one?
There is an error at 9:00 minutes. The sleeve will prevent the bearing to come out. Just don’t put the sleeve there. All the rest is perfect. Thank you for making these videos.
è la migliore motocicletta da turismo di ogni tempo, tuttora insuperata. Nonostante la lubrificazione a sbattimento. Con questo modello la Bmw di Monaco, non quella di Berlino, ha raggiunto la piena maturità tecnica e stilistica, mentre la Vincent è la Brough Superior sono scomparse prima di raggiungerla
Hi Seroj: Could you please let me know the correct values to adjust the valves of the R60/2 from 1968? I found that is 0.15mm for the intake valve and 0.20mm for the exhaust valve. However, there is another adjustment on the side of the valve. Do you know the value? I appreciate your kind help and information.
Had a R69S for over 3 decades and overhauled the engine. They are relative simple, heavy built. Wait till you try installing the crankshaft, you can say "Oh Shucks and many other words a Sailor is well versed in".
Wow In the late 70s I bought a r60/2 with a bad crank too. Sent the crank out to have it rebuilt then rebuilt it. Rode it for 5 years before I sold it. It had a full fairing and saddle bags. Loved it but not enough to keep it
My very first motorcycle was a '46 Harley 61, which I bought in 1956 for $250. I rode that bike for 40K. After riding Harleys for 15 years and about 140K, my brother in law came riding up my driveway on a brand new Honda 750 four cylinder. Took it for a short ride.....goodbye Harleys and I've never looked back. Put over 200K on several Yamahas and Hondas......am now 83 and just sold my final Honda ST 1100 about two weeks ago. Hopefully, one day I'll ride that big Honda in the Sky!
Good tutorial. Have owned my R50/2 since Sept 67, never saw the inside of the rear drive yet. I bought it to get away from chains, it’s working! Thought you would also warm the cover for reassembly. Do you know of a repair for the splines when worn other than all new parts.? Thanks.
I have 2, 73 r75 toasters and a 66 r60/2. If they are not brand new. Roll the push rods on a flat surface. If they are not perfectly straight, you will never get the valve timing right.
Hey man, we are in the middle of rebuilding this same engine. Was hoping that maybe we could reach out through email or something to ask a question about the bearing at the end sitting against the crank timing gear. When we put it in the bearing couldn't spin.
i remember my dad buying one of these bikes , brand new when i was a kid . It was my first motorcycle i ever rode on the streets . It was a really great small bike for local putting around .
