Hi! Thanks for the video. I recently bought a used ECS230 model. I have been having an issue with it. It takes it forever to heat up. The top oven will drop temp (more than a hundred degrees) sporadically. The bottom one will drop temp like that too once the door has been opened. Neither will heat back up on their own. I have to turn them off and back on again. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
I check all the elements for continuity straight away. Oven will cycle between each element to heat, and maintain heat. If continuity is good, you'll have to check voltages at the feed wires. This can be tricky as it is live voltage with bare metal connectors. Can also check voltage feed from the relay board above the oven, but that won't rule out any damaged wiring to the elements
Theres a special tool with grooves in it made by Dacor/ samsung. You can also try channelocks. Half the time we end up having to Dremel cut the rings off, and replace them. It's quite tricky though as you don't want to damage threads on the tube.
@@toddolsen995 I like that idea. I've seen where lots of people use a step bit and drill out the whole venturi and nut. I like your suggestion better. I can take my time to save 30 bucks x 3 or 4 burners. So I was looking for parts tonight and the nuts are discontinued and no longer available anywhere. Do you think I could replace the nut with the an off the shelf part from a hardware store?
Thank you for the video. It provided enough information to find the problem on my Wolf stove (the control power board.) We are going to solder the pin to the power-relay module. Please let your subscribers know that the entire metal panel where the boards are secured slide out and forward for easy access.
Thanks for the video. My 8 yr old DF30 had the same issue. Re-soldered the pin, and it is up and running. Kinda sad how many issues I had with this stove.
Almost every GE laundry center of this type I see has a bad bearing. I swear. Every single one of these I see has some sort of bearing issue, bearing failures are extremely common on these models. Most people don’t even repair these. Bearing failures were quite common on the HydroWaves too, as well as even the chug chug style GE’s, but those didn’t have bearing issues nearly as often as these. GE’s newer laundry centers are definitely better and they rarely seem to have a bearing failure. The new GE laundry centers seem to be much better than these ones. All the plastic tub GE laundry centers of this type are notorious for bearing failure, and there are problem more of these with bad bearings than there are without bad bearings.
I agree. Seems like the balance to torque, or spin speed is out of wack. That was a problem with the earliest maytag front load washers. Was too much speed for the bearing assembly, and it stressed it.
@@toddolsen995 These washers are extremely hard to replace bearings on too, so many people don’t repair them. I heard you have to replace the whole tub to replace the bearing. Transmission gets stuck to the tub.
Yes. Gear case is sealed so must be replaced as an assembly. Also true that gearcase seizes to the tub. Supposedly the complete tub/ case assembly does not work on all units though. I've done a few newer models, and GE set me individual parts to do the rebuild. Not sure why, but that's how the data is provided from the manufacturer. Also not sure why they seize together. We've cut two completely apart, and it's a disaster. By the time you get near the axle everything is so hot it is a melting mess. If it's a newer model sometimes can be beat apart with a hammer and 2x4, but there all different with varying results.
@@toddolsen995 Bearing failures seem to be most common on GE and Whirlpool built machines at least for top loaders, for front loaders I’m not sure. I’ve heard that the older Maytag top loaders, like the Performa and Atlantis series are also known for bad bearings. I haven’t seen much bearing failure or foreign built machines. I’ve seen all sorts of machines with bad bearings online, I’ve seen Frigidaire, Speed Queen, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, all of them.
Helpful! Our Bosch dishwasher door is blowing open just enough to trigger the door isn’t closed, because of the pressure of the water from the top rack, but not enough pressure to make the door click opened. What’s the part number.
There all different. Model number is either on the side of the door or door jamb. Call reliableparts.com or repair clinic.com for the proper part number lookup. Also check the top of the unit. If the top of the tub is bent up slightly that will compromise latch interface. Sometimes by bending down the top of the tub slightly will help the door latch without having to buy any parts. Hinges for bosch dishwasher failure is not that common.
Hi don't know if your checking messages on here still but I'm just a Mom with a Dacor Oven that has not worked for 8 months. With holidays approaching I really need to figure this out. A repair guy came a long time ago and quoted me $2600 for new relay board and something else. I about fainted. The oven stopped working when I had guests over with the broil unit on and forgot about it. Think the oven got too hot. What does work is the behind the back 'wall' and so the oven can get to about 260-270 degrees but top and bottom element do not work. Anyway, I tried to reset that red button but dang its in a hard place to reach....do i keep pressing hard on it? I cannot pay the money for the repair so i have to figure this out 😞 Thnak you....Jana
No. If the red button is set, and voltage is passing through the limit which sounds like it does you will need a new control board for that. Thing is before you order that it will be necessary to meter voltage at certain points to confirm this. If your not familiar with how to meter voltage safely it will be necessary to hire a technician, or potentially replace the unit.
Hi Todd, Great video!! I have a Dacor MORD230 Double Wall Oven, and recently the lower oven started overheating. Seems like when it reaches the set temperature, it does not stop heating. I can hear a relay click, the element turns off, but then turns right back on again. Any thoughts as to what this could be? The upper oven works just fine. Thanks for your feedback.
There are some model variations which dictates the board that you need, prices vary. Your local wolf parts distributor can help you with the correct lookup part number, pricing, and availability.
In what respect? Is there a visible legible model badge on your machine? If so, call your local wolf parts dealer to check availability of replacement hinges. Several wolf units utilize 1 spring hinge, and 1 has shock damper hinge. In our area I hardly see the damper unit fail. We generally just replace the spring side.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks - I've got the part numbers and confirmed availability, I'm looking for the steps to replace them. You went into detail about the problem around the 3:13 mark - I had hoped you'd cover that in the Part 2 video :)
@tecono1 i don't think I did. The hinges have a small hole at the bottom by the oven cavity. You will need to put a pin, or a screw in that hole or you will not be able to get it out. This acts as leverage so when you go to remove the door the hinges become disengaged from the receiver portion. From there its a matter of removing the screws from the door itself to access the hinges. Being careful to not damage the glass. If your model has a wolf logo on the face of the door there is usually 1 or 2 screws under that as well.
Thanks for this great video! It was exactly the same problem on my DF366 with oven not working. Was one of the soldered connections for the DLB (DBL) breaker/contactor on relay board. Took a couple minutes to re-solder and back up and running. Also had a very dim display and after removing and reconnecting the cable it is bright again!
hola soy de venezuela mi lavadora esta presentando esta falla, se le ha cambiado el acople, pero lo parte, ya se le han cambiado 5, pero vi en el video que también cambiaron el aspa, sera por eso que se parte el acople entonces, claro esta vez tengo que cambiar el aspa porque tambien se partio
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.geapplianceparts.com/store/order/shoppingcart&ved=2ahUKEwjzt5fm6r-GAxXF4MkDHZxkA60QFnoECDEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3H4QMxvU79E_L8P-2b_zoo It'd be best to check with GE parts direct as machines vary, and compatibility within the same model number is not always exact.
I’m having a very difficult time getting the big nut off of the shaft of the motor.To confirm it is supposed to come off so as to facilitate putting on the new blower wheel?? Any help is appreciated Thank you in advance
Sometimes they seize on, and need to be cut off. Try spraying threads with liquid wrench or tri flow first, if that doesn't work you'll have to carefully cut it off.
I appreciate you posting this because it helped me out! I also had a cracked wheel and had to bust it out to remove. Got the new blower in now. Thanks!
I’m in VA, so I dove in yesterday… (more confident after watching your tutorials). Discovered the relay board for the small oven was fried. One difference from your video I found, which you may know now, is that the entire assembly plate lifts and pulls out after removing the two front bolts and heat shield. This way you don’t have to kill your hands reaching in. Thx again for the videos!
@@toddolsen995 yes, because when I shift it to spin and rinse mode it’s spinning. But just the water never stop running to go to wash mode that’s doesn’t working.
Ok, thats a tough one. If it's not agitating after fill it could be a number of things. Diagnosing this is an advanced process. Is there any leaking from when it fills? If so, look for a loose hose dangling down by the tub, sometimes they pop off the pressure tube, which is connected to the water level switch. Has it overflowed over the top of the tub?
Hi Todd, I’m pretty sure I’m having the same issue as there is a loud rattling coming from the top/back of the oven when it gets warm. It’s definitely not the convection fan at the back as that works fine and this noise happens not on convection mode. I have an RSE30B Dacor, do you know the part number I would need? If not I will have to take it apart and look. Thanks!
I do not. I would call reliable parts.com , or repair clinic, and have them do the lookup. Part numbers are typically not stamped on the part. If its a double oven, I would replace both cooling fans at the same time
I took the agitator out just to clean it and was in shock how dirty it was at the bottom of the washer 😱😱😱, there was so much dirt, how can I clean it? 🙏🏼 any advice?
Yes, its actually a screen. They all look like that so don't worry. I have the same one. Scrub it with vinegar. If you have a hose that reaches that far will help with the pressure. If not just keep scrubbing and using hot water from the washer until its clean.
Great video! I have a 15 year old Wolf Range model #DF364G that the oven stopped working and I went down the line and tested everything before I dove into pulling the board. I was having a hard time finding a board so I decided to take it out and see what the deal was with it and it was a cold soldier joint. I tested the relay and everything checked out. So I dove into it and cleaned it up and resoldiered it to the board and put everything together and it worked perfectly! Thank you!
U 70 refers to the upper oven loosing communication with the realy board. Typically we would remove the communication cable ends, and clean with rubbing alcohol or electronic cleaner then reassemble, and test. If that doesn't work you would be looking at replacing the interface control, if that doesn't work you'd have to replace the relay board.
Im having the same problem after running a self cleaning cycle. My problem is the door is on the locked position with no power. How do I remove the oven without having access to the screws that attach the oven to the trim panel?
That can be tricky. I have a set of metal "dental picks" I like to use. Sometimes I can get on in the door to slightly move the lock latch enough to open it. If not try a hack saw blade to run down the jamb and cut the screws, if not that you'll have to pry carefully to keep the wood damage minimal.
I got new inverter. Still didn't work. Took it apart again and found one of the wires in the connector was slipping out and wasn't clipped onto the motor. Worked fine after making sure it clipped on correctly.
I have the same Dual Fuel Range and my ovens get hot but I have to set them to 400F if I want it to heat to 375F. I wonder if I need a new thermostat?? Any idea?
It is possible to calibrate them. Im not sure off the top of my head how to do so though. I would say call wolf, and they can walk you through it. Does the door close tight, and the gaskets in good shape? In my experience most ovens vary up to e0 degrees in either direction.
hello Todd i hope you can help me here I have a bosch b36cl80sns/07 fridge and my fridge is dead. i have 110 power in and going to the ice maker but nothing else. can you tell me the voltage that is supposed to come out of the power module to the main board. Bosch cannot or does not want to help.the fridge is only 14 months old.any help would be appreciated thanks
Sorry, i didnt get a message notification. Without the actaual wiring diagram im shooting a bit blind, but generally I'd tape the door switches, and see if the interior fan(s) are cycling, if so go the the compressor, and meter voltage there. If all is quiet, and no volts at the compressor pull the main board, check connectors at or near it. Can u get a diagram from bosch? If not inspect the board for damaged relays, signs of arcing, etc....do we have good neutral, and ground? Its hard to aalk through without the proper diagram, but turning over as many stones possible will help eliminate potential non issues.
Thank you for these great videos. My Wolf DF304 oven stopped working and after walking through all your instructions I was able to confirm that it needed a new relay board. I was able to find an oem board on eBay for less than half what Wolf charges and everything works again.
Hi Todd, I have a dacor double wall oven like you are servicing. For some reason my clock button does not work to allow me to set the clock. I have seen some posts indicating I may need to replace a board. I’m curious your thoughts? Also wondering if it would be the upper board or lower board? Or if there is something else that I may need to replace?
Its tough to rule 1 out over the other. Unfortunately since samsung bought dacor the technical assistance went to almost non existant. Typically if a button does not work it is the interface, and I would also replace the communication cable if ot is not integrated with the interface. I hope that helps!
That may be normal. Some turn on when ovens turned on , some are on thermostat. If its not having issues, error codes, weird scenarios I'd say its probably ok
