Shop teacher and content creator. Videos are for my students as well as the rest of the world interested in spreading knowledge about building stuff! I film many of my current personal projects as well. Thanks for coming!
Excellent video BUT when it comes to turning off the torch you got it backwards. You had it right in the previous video/. At 17:04 and 22:40 you turn off oxygen before acetylene. You give the right reasons but have inverted the gases. You don't want acetylene soot to build inside the torch, therefore you must turn ACETYLENE OFF FIRST. Oxygen does NOT burn and it leaves no residue. Acetylene does. Oxygen accelerates and intensifies the combustion of the fuel, be it acetylene, propane or hydrogen. Acetylene burns without oxygen. In fact you can burn acetylene and oxy/acetylene under water. You saw what happens to the brick when you turn off oxygen first.... a lot of soot. That also builds up inside the torch which is why you want acetylene off first and let oxygen purge out the torch. You say that your torch manual says to do O before A. Hard to argue that, but if you look at the chemistry and physics of turning off the torch A BEFORE O is the GO
I remember back in the day (like around 2014) i used to mess around with 90 corollas, 88-thru 2008 most of them are interchangeable From the Tercel/Corolla/scionXa/ScionXB/Echo/Yaris/Celica and Paseo, and a lot of JDM parts, i had a bunch of transmissions and parts I was always worried about putting everything back together because of this 🙏🏼 Nice Vid, straight to business 🔥
"A before O" is correct especially when you finished welding. WHY? When you turn off acetylene, the oxygen/acetylene mixture in the mixer of the torch will be purged from the mixer and tip by the flowing oxygen and will burn OUTSIDE the tip (Remember oxygen does not burn without a fuel but acetylene can burn underwater without oxygen). There is still a small amount of acetylene between the mixer and the acetylene valve which is now closed. This gas will not burn and will exit in the atmosphere. Now let's do the opposite and turn off the oxygen first. This is done by many if not most gas welders because they don't like the popping sound that the torch makes. The oxygen/acetylene mixture in the mixer will be pushed outside the tip and will burn, but now that section of the torch is filled with acetylene. When you turn off the acetylene valve the acetylene will burn inside the torch up to the acetylene valve. The problem is that without oxygen, this acetylene will burn and leave soot INSIDE your torch. this is why if you pull a torch apart you will see black soot inside the tip, inside the mixer and often beyond the valve and inside the terminal part of the hose if you don't have a flashback arrestor. If you have flashback arrestor on the torch, the soot may be inside. this soot is a problem because it builds up as layers inside the torch and will increase gas drag which may interfere when you use low pressure and small tips. The best way to light up the torch is actually to slightly crack the OXYGEN first and then turn on the acetylene. Again most welders prefer to light up ACETYLENE first, which is ok, but if you don't want soot to blow in the air you breathe, just crack the oxygen before opening the acetylene valve. Now you know why the shiny brass torch you bought, has the acetylene ducts that appear like they have been dipped in black matt paint. Take a clean cotton bud and insert it inside the terminal part of the acetylene hose. If it comes out black, you have had one or more flashbacks!
@@WeBuildStuff the mistake is in your Pinned Comment video. I am only referring to "A before O" procedure when extinguishing the torch. Here you do it correctly but without explaining the reasons. In the new video you invert to "O before A" without explaining your reasoning claiming the opposite was a bad habit. Once you learn the technical aspects of the gases used, one should always use A before O. Gas welding is a lost art with modern welders preferring the electric welding gadgetry . If you want to find the correct technical information , you need to get the old oxy acetylene manuals, printed 50 to 110 years ago. Misinformation on how to light and extinguish the torch is rife. Most welding school teachers have little or no idea about gas welding. Unfortunately many master craftsmen/artisans of oxy acetylene welding like TinMan and George Goehl have fallen off the perch.
Great, fantastic video. Love it! You had me til you mentioned clamps and tone lol.` I'm a very retired and tired muscian and I owned a studio for many many years. It's an ELECTRIC guitar. I've heard shovels sound great with the right sweetners. Great scott! ALSO, you like heavy? lol again at the end of a 4 hour gig 6 nights a week, trust me, you will be wishing you had a lighter axe, especially if you play bass. Either way, none of this effects your video or playing or building, other than the hard heavy wood. I"m gluing up the same wood now, but not because of TONE lol. I'm 75, still play, although not the grand ole opry anymore or Bob seger. (miss it all though) ... thanks for the video ... fantastic job. Oh, I'm building a Jaguar now and finishing a strat.
Great video, very helpful. I have the same transmission and had similar noises. Turned out to be the same bearing so I guess this is a weak point on the transmission. 255k on the car so I guess I can't complain.
If you see the beginning of the video I chose my size based on the thickness of the wire and whatever ones fit over the metal tabs. They may have been 10-12 gauge or 16-14 gauge. Use the thickest ones possible that fit your parts. I typically buy a bulk set from my local hardware store
Just an FYI a bearing buddy doesn't let grease get to rear bearings. Trust me I thought this also they are made to help keep water out of bearings on outside since their is no wheel seal to stop water from contacting bearing. Google it. Now they make an axle called ez-lube the axle shaft has a grease zerk on it to lube from rear forward those do grease the hub. STOP if your greasing your bearing hubs with bearing buddy they need to be removes at least once a year to repack back( inner ) bearing
Thanks so much for the response! that clarified all sides :-) the bottom is the only side that looks to be different, being 3/4" more than every other side, thank you :-)
looking at the plans, i cant see any indication on the template distance to the edges. what i mean is; where the blocking is placed, how far is it from the edges? 1 1/2" all the way around? including on the bottom?
Awesome! Bought some lumber to make one myself. Oak body with probably a flamed birch top and then I'm gonna make a laminated birch and oak neck with oak fretboard. Maple costs a ton here in Finland so I got these pretty unusual woods. This inspired me to make one without a pickguard and maybe a dual humbucker configuration like the one you were originally going for. Thanks for posting, this will help a ton!
Drill. Basic Cheap hand router. Basic Cheap Jigsaw. Basic Small circular saw. Basic Hammer and nails. Basic Nail gun. Basic (i bought my set used at a garage sale) Ruler. Basic Screwdriver. Basic All could be bought new or used. Watch the full hour long video series to see step by step how simple this project is when broken down to basic high school level teaching. This can be done in a backyard, driveway, or kitchen table when your wife isn't watching
Information is found in the video description including links to parts I bought (some might be outdated as this was filmed in 2017) holbrooktech.weebly.com/bigger-bartop-arcade-build.html
I wish I could just order and get stuff a day or two after... I live i Norway, and there's no way to get stuff around, so Amazon, Ebay, and the such are also used here. The problem?... it gets "weeeeeks" (3-5) for anything to arrive. So there's a lot more planning involved while ordering, so that the project don't stall like crazy. Beautiful build!.. it does help to have the workshop as well! Btw... check into the Shinto rasp... that thing is much faster ;)
@@benirodriguez9516 yes I would love to get a shinto rasp. Everything I bought were cheap tools mostly from local hardware stores. I hope to get better luthier tools wih each build. Thanks for watching and... ha en flott dag!
@@WeBuildStuff indeed, it is wise to get growing the equipment as the passion grows, but I can see there's passion! It must be worth every single second of a build to be able to play your self-built instrument, regardless if it's perfect or not. To be your first, it's already perfect! I'd say that the hardware you put into it makes the most difference. Locking tuners, bare knuckle pickups, and a Schaller or Babicz tailpiece, and your guitar will shine! Keep having fun! And nice touch there with the Norwegian! 😃
I see the joystick you used just needed one connector, if you get happ or IL sticks, is it just a case of putting 4 different wires into the usb converter for each stick? And do you remember the brand of usb board you used for this?
@@MrGenedancingmachine or this depending on your favorite joystick style EG STARTS 2 Player Arcade Game DIY Kits Part 2 Ellipse Oval Bat Joystick Handles + 20 LED lit Arcade Buttons Green & Blue Kits a.co/d/08fs8O7
Thank you really helped. I just gave in and started clipping off the plastic around the white piece to get it all off since the whole thing was going anyway. Now my issue is the clamps... They didn't give me new ones and the grips won't do the job. Gonna have to buy the other ones
My first 3 thoughts: 1. Great X-Mas Sweater 2. I hope those bandages on those two fingers are not saw related. 😳 3. Oh fuck, the way you are holding that circular saw scares the holy fuck out of me! 🫣 Am at minute 2. Great video so far. +1 sub. Chris 👋
@@unheilbargut thanks Chris! Bandages were related to an off camera soldering iron incident that happened 20 minutes before I filmed the intro oooops. What did I do with the circular saw that freaked you out?
@@WeBuildStuff First of all I would like to admit that I am in no shape or form able to say anything about how to handle such equipment. My skills are tiny and I never used one of those. I never have seen anybody hold this kind of saw so far in the front - that could be because I never looked that close or because my brain is a swiss cheese and those holes usually swallow a lot of memories 😅. Those soldering accidents are meant to be. When I tried some silver soldering and some glass melting, I managed to grab the working piece about a minute after I had it orange glowing, because of said swiss cheese brain. Luckily I am due to my MS and disabilities taking a metric ton of opioids, so I didn‘t suffer that long, but hot pieces of metal and I are incompatible I guess. 🙈 (And by now I have seen your entire video and must say: amazing work!)
Thanks for this! I used it as one of my references as I rebuilt my 535,000 km old C59 5 speed on the weekend. Now it's smooth and quiet again. Before it was sounding like a deep fryer at idle with the clutch out.
@@WeBuildStuff yes. The input shaft bearing on the 5th gear end was galled and loose. But I don't want to save a few bucks but then have to re-do a job this big early, so while I was in there, I replaced every bearing and seal with a USA Standard Bearing/ seal kit (excellent kit - same bearings as OEM - good for 325,000 km with non-synthetic oil - likely longer with the "good stuff"). I got lucky on the differential bearings. They're fit is adjusted with shims, but the OEM shim gave me zero play and light rolling friction (did this by feel), so I didn't have to fiddle with getting a bunch of shims at $40 each. Likely because they are the exact same bearings as OEM, they fit very close to the exact same. My total cost (replaced a mount, the rubber clutch line, part of the metal clutch line and a few other things was about $700 CDN. I could have bought a junk yard tranny for $750 and saved some time, but I wouldn't have the peace of mind I have knowing exactly the internal conditions and operation history of the transmission.
Thank you not only for your detailed build, but also for showing how you enjoyed playing the guitar you built with your friends. I've been scouring youtube for all the guitar building tips I can find, no one ever really jams out with the guitars that they built! Kudos.
@@seanlynch9231 check out this unlisted video of a live show we did. Both guitars I play are home built. Sound is isn't great but was a super fun show ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9PBIH6Dz7kc.htmlsi=jMUInVve3KKgtSFj
With all do respect i took 2 welding corsés one 14 months welding and lay out and 1 for pipe welding with torch cutting off the pipe in bevel, and the standard oxígas presumes are 15 psi fuel and 45 psi oxígen! Just my opinion
When making my template I eyeballed or traced circle shaped objects to fit. For the larger arc that goes from the upper marquee to the control panel I bent a long ruler into the arc that looked good and traced it with a pencil. Not everything is exact to the CAD plans. I use those as a starting point and make changes as I wanted or needed to without overthinking too much
Not everything is shown exactly in the plans. Sometimes you have to measure and make something fit. That being said I'm not sure which circle you are referring to (I built this in 2018). Can you reply with a timestamp in the video showing which circle. I may be able to explain better if I can see which part you are talking about.
@@Kevinka98 bottom of page 3 it says 46.18 in the side view but It isn't listed on the panel breakout page. So I believe that piece would be 46.18 x 81.28. Trim to fit if tight as these numbers are straight out of Autocad and don't reflect small human errors in measurement when building.
Nice job, beautiful. I had a friend that had a 1968 Telecaster that would look like it had been drugged through the world war one and I went to the whole thing and finished it. I've never done it before. I'm excited to build one of my own. I watched the whole video. Thanks I learned a lot from your video keep going
