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Voll cooles Design! Hätte ich einen 3D Drucker, würde ich sowas drucken wollen. Man müsste die Geheimfächer aber noch Polstern, damit man nicht hören kann, dass in der Schachtel noch etwas drinnen ist.
@@greenmeloncloud916 würde mich jetzt auch sehr interessieren. Wäre mir selber auch neu, aber vielleicht wurde mir dieses Wissen extra nicht „einprogrammiert“🤣
Imported STLs/STEP files will always drop to the plate (others wise they would not be printable) Only modifiers are allowed to "float". What slicer are you using?
@@Factorian_Designs Using Bambu Studio. Used to used Cura slicer for my Ender 3 but got myself a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS lite so assumed the built in Add objects would be the same. All primitives drop to the build plate.
Vase mode does not necessarily mean poor quality parts. Use a larger nozzle and print wider walls for vase mode. I only occasionally sell stuff locally, but I've never had complaints with various vases printing .8mm to 1mm line widths.
Any miniature video on time and settings for best results for .2mm nozzle would be great for the future. Also great ideas for vases. BTW would that still be waterproof?
I don't have much experience with minatures so I will probably have to pass on that. But yes the vase should still be waterproof. If not slightly increase your extrusion factor and printing temperature.
Nice results! But I didn't really get the first part with the cylinders. What is going on there? You print walls as 2 single outer walls not connecting each other, one pointing outside and one inside the vase? But what about cylinders, looks like they are way too high than the infill is going... I'm using Cura btw. Would really want to know what exactly you are doing there.
I am just using modifiers, to modify the volume where the cylinders and the planter are overlapping (more infill etc). It doesn't matter if your modifiers are a little too big. The slicer will just ignore those parts. Hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Ok, so it only modifies on the overlapping section...I see... thanks! But what about the general print/slice of the vase on the video are there 2 single layer walls or 2 double layer walls, and are just with some free space in between? Also if you don't mind(I hope) to tell me if I make line width 0.8( on 0.4 nozzle) for example - slicer automatically calculates number of walls for a specific thickness and shows you it changed volume, but it doesn't show any change in the material flow. Shouldn't it be more extrusion for the double width or it just automatically slower the speed or else happens?
I would use them a bit different for action figures. You will probably be better off using a low wall count + lightning Infill in the general settings and then add extra walls with modifiers where your model is fragile. This should save filament and reduce printing time. I hope that helps!
Hi, thanks for the video. I got a bit lost after 4:35. Why the upper cylinder disappears after a few seconds? What changes have you made ? How can you avoid printing the upper cylinder ? Could you please explain more? Thanks !
Hey, the cylinders I added are just modifiers. They only change the settings for the main geometry where they overlap. The modified settings for the cylinder are only the infill %, type and top layer pattern. The shape of the modifier structures themself will never be printed. I hope that helps!
@@Factorian_Designs Thanks for giving me the keywords! I managed to find more youtube about modifier and I now understand what it does. That's briliiant!
Great video! I switched my A1 to the 0.6 nozzle but haven't experimented with many other settings to speed things up like this, since it should technically have the capability to but it doesnt seem like its helped all that much. Curious about your advice on that. Could be a video idea as well :). Subscribed!
This works with any nozzle size and printer. But you probably have to increase your layerheight with bigger nozzles and higher linewidths. At some point maximum flowrate will become a problem but that is a whole other topic itself.
With 0 infill do the vase walls squeeze together every time you pick it up? From a quality perspective I would imagine customers might think it's low quality if so, similar to how you mentioned vase mode printing.
1,2 mm thick walls with this kind of outer shape which is also connected at the top gives a pretty sturdy structure. I haven't had any significant bending so far.
Rather than use modifiers, Prusa slicer has Lightning and Support cubic infills which basically print at 0-5% when you dont need them and then ramp up to whatever you set (20% for me) when they need to support features like the top layer. also, for mass production, I would just design the pieces with hollow walls and solid top/bottoms and then just print at 100% infill so you never have to worry about the settings.
How about just designing it better?? Why does it have double walls? Just make the walls 5 layers thick in the model. The same goes for the bottom - what use is the double bottom? It won't be strong with 3 bottom layers anyway. Make it 1.2mm thick and you don't need a modifier. Whenever I see a model, say a box for electronics, with double walls, I just cringe. Why design models for 3D printing when you actually design them for cutting out of wood or something?? And if you can't change the model, even better way is to reduce the internal dimensions using the slicer using either the X-Y hole compensation or X-Y contour compensation, you can achieve a similiar effect (but slicer sometimes breaks the model in places if you overdo it). Kudos for not wasting our time, though, and still useful tips (most people don't even know how to use modifiers).
