Scotty lad. Crackin video. A question regarding the oil leak on this van, did you find the source? Doing me gearbox and have the exact same oil residue!! Haha! Thought you may know where to start looking. Cheers.
Great video I watched it to do mine ,2015 5 speed . Can I ask advice ? I've reaplced ut as I had a weird sound when I'm going slow I can hear when I dip cluch I get a rumble noise thought duall mass ,it's still doing it ? Any odea please 50k miles ,wheel bearings ? Gearbox thank you graham
If the sound changes when you steer left and right it will be a wheel bearing, jack the front up and spin a wheel by hand and put your hand on the track rod end, any rough feeling it’s that side
Man such a clean and thorough video! The shooting is great and in HD, I mean what else could I wish for?! I 'love' my Pathfinder and always try to do my repairs with care, this is spot on. THANK YOU!!
Hello, thank you very much for the video, very well done and the procedure explained, I will move on with the work. I just have one question, can a 50 liter compressor handle the job?
Honestly thank you very much , you convinced me to take it to the mechanic and not try and do it myself . Way to complicate for a guy with not enough tools and no ramp. nope , mechanic it is . lol. jokes aside thanks for the very informative video
When I was a kid ( late 70s thru 80s a cafe was a fast bike with a header, drag bars (or clipons or clubmans) and probably a quarter fairing. My brothers' Suzukis were the fastest bikes in northern BC I'm fairly certain. Now it seems a cafe is any older bike, could be a 450 or an old cb 650 custom, and they hack the rear end off it and voila, it's a cafe racer! What's worse, so many old bikes get disassembled and left unfinished. This one actually looks pretty good.
Im looking at doing the 606 conversion on my 2013 sprinter it has the 642 motor at the moment but its on it's way out (2nd) engine. It just seems a bit daunting though as i want to keep the auto box (722.6)
hi, did the valve stem seals replacement (could be regarded as cruel and unusual punishment...inhumane...) but forgot to put in the flywheel locking pin when assembling all together and torqueing according to spec (i did use the cams locking device). The car won't start (the battery is good, there is "ignition", the crank is rotating freely manually, the rev scale moves when i switch the ignition on) - could it be that not using the flywheel locking pin caused this ? i get a starter fault code (wasn't getting it before) - so could it be that it is a coincidence? thank you in advance
@@Scotty66 thank you. I did it with a rope (i.e. no pin while rotating the crank to get the pistons up/down), not air pressure. So, By setting the timing do you mean, dismantle everything to the point it was just after i finished with the valve seal stems and before starting the assembly, put the pin into the flywheel and continue with the locking tool, etc...? (I have the right tools, just wasn't concentrating enough after the tidieous replacement of the seals...🤦). Much appreciated
Lock the crankshaft with the pin, check where the cams are sitting, if the cam locking tools will fit then the timing is correct you have another problem. I would think the cams are out of time, with the flywheel locked loosen the cam pulleys and move the cams to there correct position, they need to be exact
Well...i re-did it, no change, so i removed the valve cover again and found all the exhaust valves to be "sunk" (all 8 springs are pressed down hard and the cam doesn't even touch them (no pressure on them). I put an endoscope into the cylinders and there are scratches in the pistons heads - when rotating the cams i see (i think) that the pistons may be indeed slightly touching the valves when they reach the top). I guess a rebuild is needed but i don't understand the issue with these 8 exhaust sunk valves , do you? Could it be that all 8 bent the same? I have photos of all of the above but can't upload here sadly
If you have to go to a tuner anyway for deleting some warning lights... Why not let him extend the glow times and use the sprinter glow hardware? Should be possible I guess?
Yes absolutely. This was 6cyl swap for 6cyl so that would work, but most are 4cyl swap for 6 so would need to change relay anyway, I think if original relay is left plugged into ecu it would work with only a few more fault codes to delete.
Very good info man... so if with the auto with om651 to convert to manual with a om606 would the existing 2017 ecu to the same principle as you have done here?
Hi Scotty..Iam planning to change my clutch on my Nissan Navara 2015 facelift.. do i need to use a self adjusting tool for the clutch replacement.??? Great video by the way... many thanks john
Two questions… did you modify the shifter linkage or did it fit quite straightforward with the cable operated part? And the output flange of the transmission? Could you change the flange from the original to the 6 speed box or did you have to make it custom? Thanks a lot!
hi Scotty, at 13:24 i noticed you tightening the driveshaft nuts with a hammer and screwdriver. I thought these were supposed to be like 200nm torque? Did you tighten them after?
@@Scotty66 sorry i watched that part again, is it the earlier G that applies too? the 463 states its 180 - 200 nm. with .01 play via a dial indicator. Both seem to be tapered bearings. I am buttoning up a w463 front end and I don't want to wreck these bearings. Also thanks for making such a detailed and well documented G restore/build it is really awesome to see so much of a build a to z.
@@bentickner1 Hi Yes they are taper bearings so any pressure would destroy them, I set them up by feel, absolute minimum play but must have play to not destroy them, the locking tabs keep the lock nuts on place ( me using a hammer and screwdriver is to bend over the locking plates) If they were torqued even to 50 they would crush and not move. I’m not a GWagon expert, this was the first one I have restored ( have done another one since) All Mercedes in general I have worked on use taper bearings on the front and don’t have a torque setting. But please check for yourself, hope this helps
@@Scotty66 i think you are a gwagon expert. it seems the 180-200 is the torque applies to the outer nut to lock it to the inner nut so you are definitely correct about the bearings being good following your method.. This is why I asked. Thank you so much for all your help and guidance.
Thank you very much Scotty, my Navara is same as your shape, but 2014. I still it should be the same fitting even as these bolts are only listed up to the 2012 model? It is still a 2.5 diesel.
Im really enjoying this series. Thank you for taking the time to film and edit it, as that makes your project at least twice as long I am sure. As for feedback I do like the running commentary. Thanks again!
very good tutorial, thank you. At what point did you remove the chain tensioner (or did i miss it) ? before opening the sprockets 100nm torqued bolts or after ? When putting all back, why not put the tensioner back before tightening the sprockets (why use the tool first) ? thank you
8:24 What is the diameter size of the modified spark plug ? Would like to see if there is an adaptor that I could buy extra to do the compression, I'm useless in fabrication so maybe there is an adaptor I could place onto the hose supplied in the Valve kit?
hey man , quick question , i have a 320d 150hp 01/2003 BMW 5 speed , on realoem it shows 2 part codes for the clutch kit , on from 03/2003 to 2005 , and another one untill 03/2003 , are they the same? or it wouldnt fit ?
