Hey dude, what was the gear ration on the JK you worked on? Looks like there are 2 types of the D30 eaton elocker - one for 3.73 and up and one for 3.54 and down. Which one did you install?
in other videos people take off what the spring originally pushes against at the top, and they install the spacer above that. you have the spring in direct contact with the new spacer instead. why do you think there's a difference procedure?
we wanted to raise the front of the jeep exactly .75" and added the new spacer (or isolator) in this case. I did not remove the original spacer as to not reduce the amount of total change. Obviously you dont want to stack spacers if they are the 2" ones over getting correct longer spring, but stacking 1/2" or 3/4" isolators is fine when looking for small leveling changes in my opinion.
lots of 3x12 hardwood on 12" centers, supported at edge and 2 midpoints, overlapping where supported, with 1.5" tongue groove over it. i use to worry about it, but don't anymore. i poured 20 gallons of polyurethane with oxide over 100lbs of sand grouted into the tongue and grove on the 36x60 shop side to help with oil and metal sparks. One of the Farmers Sons stopped by that owned the property before me said he remembers shoveling out my barn full of grain by hand as a kid. they pulled full 10 wheelers in to dump grain. my 10k lift is directly supported by i beams and steel tension cables down to the concrete floor 11' below the main wood floor.
i bet you dont live in the NE with salt. lucky you. also, why on earth would you ever need to take a wheel speed sensor in and out 100X on a vehicle? lol
@@smichaelR22 I live in Missouri and there is salt on roads alot. Might not be as much as the NE but still have it. And I go through ball joints and axle joints and axle from wheeling it in water, mud, sand and rocks. So I’m always breaking stuff. lol.
not all D30 are alike. i started with a 1975 CJ5 that had a small 267 ujoint, then cherokees with 297 ujoints, JK D30s with 760 joints and bigger ring gears, and now the JL generation of the D30 (M186) even more changes. Short answer is yes D30 are great when used responsibly and realistically.
Is this kit compatible for the newer Jeep Wrangler JL's? with the Dana M220 rear axle? I believe I have the 2.72:1 Command trac part time 4x4 system. Cheers!
surplus center has everything Qty Item No Description Amount ****************************************************************************************** 8 9-6400-8-6 JIC 8M x SAE 6M CONNECTOR 12.80 2 931-2248 3/8" X 48" JIC 8F X JIC 8F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE 32.40 6 931-2224 3/8" X 24" JIC 8F X JIC 8F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE 67.50 __________________________________________________________________________________________ Order Recap: Total Product $: 112.70 Net Product$: 112.70 Shipping: 17.46 Sales Tax: 10.41 Insurance: 0.00 Grand Total: 140.57
2:16 Good advice, I have seen other videos where the shade tree mechanic does fail at removing the wheel sensor and replaced the whole bearing with the sensor.
Nice cars. I'm trying to find the VIN number on my 1952 chevy woodie. Can only find a serial number. Also, anyone know how to get title on old car like this, with no license plate and no vin and pink slip title? Thx
In NY it is easy if pre 1972. you just have to know what your doing. they dont outline the process at all on line, but its very straight forward, just did 2 last month. you need 9 pieces of information/forms to establish ownership/clean papers from scratch.
I bought the ball joint press for 89$ from harbor freight and it's heavy duty , it has quite a bit of weight to it , the 1st set I used it on was my jku and it done it very easily, the ball joint wasn't rusted in but it was stuck tight. I'd recommend it for the price
if you listen, i say there is a bolt i could take off, but they are usually rusted in my area. how many times i have broken or struggled with that bolt, after digging out 3" of sand and mud to get to it. then it breaks, then what. you need to fix/replace. walking over to get a flat blade screw driver and pry it on saved me probably 30 min of struggle. this is called the easy way of experience. thanks for comments though.
I can tell you that noise is such a bitch. You need a larger CFM fan. What would be perfect would be a variable speed motor with spiral fan. These are the lowest noise ratings. Nice explosion, what cause the big boom ????
i ended up running a BR6 (120CFM) blower off amazon. good flow and quiet. its worked great for 2 years now. i keep a spare on the shelf if needed. I also bought the BR15 (380CFM) but its way to much, louder, more power ect. not there yet. maybe next big boy burner. explosion was from trying to restart a hot stove after the flame went out. chamber and stack had not cleared of flammable oil vapor. I learned my lesson to just wait if it ever happens (rarely)
did you use any kind of sealant on the wire coming out of the diff? I see some people have used it. its my biggest question. is it necessary? and if so what are people using?
i do not, just size the hole properly per the instructions. i think the eatons call for a 7/16" hole. its tight and i have done dozens and not had any issues
i need to get setup for tool grinding soon. my lathe tooling is a mess. I tried a few different wheels for my basic Jet 8" grinders, but looks like i need to get something real for basic tool steel and some basic carbide sharpening ability. This sharper came with 3 boxes of tooling that also fits my lathe which is nice!
i had too much fuel and the flame when out with a hot stove. i turned off the air blower, which allowed the pot to self ignite, and the stove and chimney exploded that was full of oil vapor mixture. the right thing would have been to leave the pot blower on for a few minutes to fully cool the stove and clear the system of oil vapor mixture before re lighting the stove. this was last and its been doing fine still now that i know what will happen if im not careful!
Love this truck. We saw it listed for sale, but missed out on it. We're just came across the video now, and love the work you do. Hopefully we won't miss out on the next one you do! Definitely keeping an eye out!
What you need is velocity/ pressure not volume. Blowers=volume not velocity. A smog pump will give you more heat with less oil and less overall volume of air=less heat going up the chimney. -fix
yes, there is a complete second lower floor to my 36'x160' building. 11' below is a concrete floor. I ran I beams down with a 3/4" top plate the lift plate bolts to down to the first floor where its anchored. there are also triangulated steel tension cables with turnbuckles to keep everything from moving around and another steel plate lagged into the hardwood floor beams. the floor is way over built and made for ten wheelers full of grain to pull in and dump.
Wheel off Undo lower sway bar ,undo upper shock gently prise the spring out ,loosen rear control arm to chassis bolt because height change loads up the bush ,retighten when back on ground 15 minutes per side spring compressor not needed , I think you made the job harder for yourself
If you live in a part of the country where you can take a TJ shock off in less than 15min with out a plasma cutter, good for you. Here in NY, you cant from salt/ corrosion. I have done this hundreds of times, and this is what works best and fastest for me in this case.
thanks! its been fun to build the shop how i want after working in a smaller 3 car rented garage for 10 years. Owning 6 acres, a house, and a 36x160' 2 story barn has been awesome.
This is great, thank you. I recently bought a 7265 and am looking at replacing a few hydraulic lines. It's good to know that there's a more cost effective way to do it. Do you have a hydraulic line for your rear implements? I have a GreatBend backhoe that is fed hydraulics from the front. It works, but I don't think the lines are installed correctly. The line keeps rubbing on the front tire and has worn over a 1ft section of the rubber off the line. I can't find any images online showing how it should be setup. Any help would be great!
that is great you found my video by searching 7265! no i do not have any remotes on the back of this machine. i would just try to tie or clamp them tight to the chassis, or wrap them in protective hose.
My 7265 has been doing great. really the only thing that needs fixed is the RPM cable has failed twice. other than that its been a solid machine and super useful for moving things, brush hoging, Tilling, and gravel work around the lot.
Hey man....quick question. I noticed you are putting the shims for backlash on the outside of the carrier bearing after the bearings were pressed onto the locker. There are other guys that put the shims on before pressing the carrier bearings onto the locker? Thoughts....thank you sir!! Chris
some axles have internal or external shims. All newer jeep Jks are external shims. Older D30s like TJ or YJs have shims you put on before the bearings. Either design is fine- external is a little easier as you dont need to press on and off bearings a bunch.
