I'm not sure of the brand. I bought it used and it didn't come with any information. I've seen several different vises online that look like they would work well.
imho totally overkill for woodworking but just for the lolz I once indicated a new sawblade laying flat on the table to be ±0.2mm then installed indicated ±0.8mm. kinda alright for a cheap handheld circular saw however almost 1mm runout with a 4mm thick blade seemed bad enough to add a new saw to my wishlist ^^
I’ve never had an issue with the glue peeling. Industrial super glue, as long as it is cyanocrylite, should work fine. I’ve tried different brands and find I get the best and most consistent results with Glu Boost.
@MarioRodriguez-zi1xl I don't sell the guard but I wrote this as a magazine article for Canadian Woodworking Magazine. Search online and you should find the plans.
Hi Andre - I didn't like the position of the factory switches so I designed this switch box that is on magnets to turn the saw on and off. It uses a pair of relays in a control box so that I can run low voltage wiring to the switch box. It's not something that I sell since it requires a fair amount of electrical knowledge and you have to make some changes to the magnetic starter on the K3. DM me on instagram if you want additional information.
Really good video, well explained and a fantastic method for cutting these angled dovetails! Good point about establishing the angle straight away with the Pantorouter! I dig your methodical approach. I’ll definitely be watching this again. Thanks!
Thanks for checking it out, Ramon. I try to avoid tilting the blade on my tablesaw since it means I have to remove my favourite zci. 😊 That's what got me thinking about how I could do all of the operations with the PantoRouter. Thanks 🙏🙏
I’m new to the Pantorouter, I’ve been struggling to do dove tails. This video is probably the best I’ve seen so far but one thing that I can’t get is when he cuts the pins. He mentioned that he adjusted the height, that’s a key point on getting tight fits but I don’t think he showed it here. How do you adjust the height on the template board to get tight pins? Great video though
Thanks for your compliment, Gaston and also for your excellent question. You are correct that the fit of the dovetails is entirely done by adjusting the width of the pins. You are also correct that changing the height of the template holder changes the width of the pins and thus is used to get a perfect fit. My approach is to pencil in the pins from the tails as I show at about 7:00 into the video. From there, I adjust the template holder height while moving the router up and down against one of the dovetail templates (the router is off at this point) until I get close to the line. I then start making test cuts and refine the height of the template holder until the fit is perfect. I suspect your question is about how I make small adjustments to the height of the template holder. If so, I find the best way is with the template holder micro-adjuster which is sold by PantoRouter. Before I had this, I would mostly eyeball the movement of the template holder and it didn't take many test cuts to get it dialed in. Does this answer your question?
Thank you for taking the time to respond, yes it does but if you ever do another video I would appreciate if you can show it, also do you use the 10 mm bearing for the entire process? Thank you.
@@gaston188 Hi Gaston - I don't recall which bearing I used to rout the pins. Several different bearing sizes may work for the pins - I chose by using the pencil lines transferred from the tails until it looked like I was close to the line. I think it will make more sense once you do some test cuts
Well done my friend! I bought one of these from David and it is well worth the money - my old approach was effective but not nearly as flexible... Best, Mike
Nice Jig ! I like the squaring capability of your jig as well. Very clever ! I am definitely interested in your plans. Possibly interested in purchasing the kit. Thank you.
Great video! I’ve had some local burl and a few pen kits for several years now and I think this Winter is the time to finally make them. As always, your approach is methodical and thought out. Thanks for the useful information!
I’m starting to turn pens in the next week or so and am wondering if I should use wet or dry wood? I have a ton of fresh cut wood because most everyone says to turn wet wood. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks
Hi Brian - the short answer is that you should turn fully dry wood for pens. The reason you read about turning wet wood is because it's much easier to turn but this really only matters when you are turning bowls. Wood shrinks as it dries and it also distorts slightly in shape. You don't want any change in the size or shape of your pen after it's turned. Also, it's difficult to apply finish to wood unless it's dry. Good luck with your turning. I think you will have fun.
Your explanations are always thorough and informativ! I love this super clever design. I certainly would be interested in purchasing a kit! Thanks a ton
@@MatthewSpringer I don't recall if I said this in my other video about the toe-out. Once I got the slider dialed in, I didn't want to mess with it for fear I would take it out of calibration. To set the toe-out, I loosed the bolts holding the cast iron table and shifted it slightly to get that 0.003" or so. It was surprisingly easy to do. Thanks for checking out the video.
@@davidbedrosian1567, I don't have a wood lathe, I have a 9x20 metal lathe. so I first use a short drill then a longer drill. I guess I should have said that above.
Hi Denise - The jig requires the sliding table to be close to the blade (ideally, directly on the left side of the blade). My understanding is that the sawstop sliding table is an aftermarket item that replaces the left wing of the saw. Depending on how far the table is from the blade, the jig may work. Contact me at BedrosianWoodworks at gmail dot com and we can discuss this further.
Excellent! Most helpful for me getting started pen turning. I love the flap sander you have, sure beats doing it by hand. I have had a hard time finding a similar item - I checked William Woodwrite, but did not find it. Where did you find such a useful tool? thx, jim
I'm glad you liked the video, Jim. Pens are fun to turn and fun to give as gifts. I got the flap sander from stockroom supply. I think they call them mop sanders. Good luck with your turning.
@frankparsley1913 Hi Frank - I'm hoping you will see this message about my Fritz and Franz jig. You can email me at BedrosianWoodworks at gmail dot com and I can send you more information about ordering a jig.
great video! I have a problem with the heat rise while applying PA glue. it is so hot that the paper towel and rubber glove are stick on the pen blank. Tried with a very low speed, still having the problem. any suggestions? thanks
Thanks for your comment. I'm just guessing, but the problem may be with the type of paper towel you are using. I've found some that react with the CA glue which causes it to get hot. Try applying the CA to the paper towel and don't apply it to the pen. See if the paper towel gets hot or if it smokes. If so, try a blue shop paper towel to see if that makes a difference.
Excellent video. I was hoping I could ask how you dialled the cut of your bottom piece so well so that your dovetails still lined up beautifully and squared up in those grooves in the sides. Was there a little room in the depth of the groove or was there a method to make the grooves and the width of the bottom perfect? Thanks David. Big fan of your channel.
Hi Jason and thanks for your feedback. I'm not clear on your question so please feel free to ask more. I dry fit the drawer and then measured the width for the bottom and cut it about 1/32" undersize. The depth of the bottom is not critical since it is not trapped in a groove.
@@davidbedrosian1567 thanks so much for replying - The undersizing by 1/32 is exactly what I was curious about - Sorry for my long winded confusing wording lol.
@@jasondarr1238 I'm glad that makes sense. Don't hesitate to reach out with any other questions. If you are on Instagram, you can find a lot more of my content @BedrosianWoodworks
Very nice! Pickup a couple of tips, thanks! Can you briefly elaborate on how many coats of thin/medium you used and your sanding process before the buffing? Also, do you use anything on the last buffing wheel?
Hi Ron - thanks for your feedback. The number of coats depends on the type of wood. I want to be sure that the grain is completely filled so I can get an even and high gloss finish. Generally, I would say I apply about 8-10 coats of the thin CA and 2 or 3 coats of medium. For sanding after finishing, I probably start with P400 or maybe higher and I power sand to get an even dull finish. This leaves lots of scratches so I move on to higher grits without power sanding along the length of the pen tube. It doesn't take long to remove the scratches and move on to the next grit. I go up to at least P1000 and sometimes higher before buffing. I'm not sure if those really fine grits make much difference so I should experiment to see. It only takes an extra 30 seconds or so per grit. The buffing is where I really get the high gloss. The last wheel has carnuba wax that comes with the Beall system. Let me know if you have any other questions.
I didn't get any blowout on the outside of the tail boards which is what really counts. That's probably because the outside was up and I could start the cut slowly. I got a small amount of blowout on a few of the tails on the inside but it was minimal. The pins were perfect. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the video was useful
Excellent explanation! The boxes look extremely strong and besides providing wrack resistance, this method creates a box that can’t twist either. Marking the up/out&in of the components was a good move. Anyway, thanks a ton.
Great video! I purchased one of your jigs some months ago and can't wait to get it set up. I have been putting my 1750 sq. ft. shop together (framing, walls, conduit, pulling circuits, etc.) by myself for a few years now (actually going on 3.5 years) so some of the things I have purchased have been put in safe storage with no real idea of when I will actually get back to it. The day will come though and I will certainly refer back to this video to get my jig set up properly. Thanks for posting it!
