Don't worry. The "GPS on" requirement is only to make sure you don't go to any anti Communist Party rallies. No big deal, unless you are bad person. And, yes, below 0C it will blow up. Also not a deal-breaker for most people because it's unsafe to be outside in that cold weather anyway. 👍
@@kriegerdrako Hey! Good luck man! Hope you will successfully replace the batteries! And sometimes the process of fixing something is more 'worth' than the final outcome! 😀
After changing the bulb in the flashlight, it still glows slightly like 16:45 Only when you slightly unscrew the back, it goes out. What could be the reason, how to get rid of it?
Hello! I see what you mean! Basically, it's a problem with the LED driver. It carries some current even when it's disabled. Basically - in short, you need to replace the driver (or at least look whats wrong with it in some basic level - burned components or so) I'm very busy right now, working with my PhD, so can't help you more, but I also ran into this kind of fault, so, maybe after some time, I can make a video about this! BUT definately not now!
Thanks! I hadn't realized that, as in my case, the battery isn't draining too quickly. However, I've encountered a different problem where the battery drains itself even when the LED isn't enabled. I'll need to address this issue and likely make a video about it as well!
No problem, friend! Many reviewers are surprised by how to disassemble this flashlight. In many cases, the biggest surprise is understanding how to even open the head of the flashlight. So, it was my pleasure to help you out! Take care!
Hi, it's a good question, I can't answer it right away, then I need to review the circuit, but in essence this is both a current and voltage generator, with a variable output power, and the internal circuits are also powered from the same transformer. But if you are very interested, here is more information and even the circuit: vinratel.at.ua/publ/biblioteka_diptrace/skhemy/skhemy_blokov_pitanija_tes_7_tes_9_tes_13/3-1-0-125
Уважаемый автор, да по любому ставить хоть xhp 70 и 90 и 110, но самое главное виляет драйвер. Если драйвер выдает максимум 20ватт, xhp90 ему будет не хватает яркость свет, если ставить драйвер для xhp90 вообще будет по другому и свет очень очень яркие. Да конечно будет сильно перегреваться:)
Абсолютно согласна с тобой! Видно, что у вас есть информация и знания! Однако, согласитесь, это был хороший эксперимент, потому что поначалу я мог понять, сработает ли он вообще. Другой вопрос: найдите драйвер меньшей мощности, который еще не встроен с известным допуском по мощности, который выдает достаточную пиковую мощность для питания XHP90. Это, конечно, надо измерить, но я рад, что вы задумались, это очень важно!
@@МартинГрицюк-ы9з возможно, вы можете начать с корпуса какого-нибудь китайского фонарика, такого как этот: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006904976878.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.2c9douQoouQopS&algo_pvid=0d324789-cc18-4119-af4f-40790088f2e1&algo_exp_id=0d324789-cc18-4119-af4f-40790088f2e1-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2149.52%2140.61%21%21%2153.12%2143.56%21%402103868a17240086233642917e9d34%2112000038672774343%21sea%21LV%21728130877%21X&curPageLogUid=r4bvnl81gKl2&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
Hello! Well, I'm not sure I understood your question correctly. But beam shooting works (if that's your question). The beam does not depend on the LED (in this case) but more on the distance between the LED and the lens and the shape of the LED. Since the LEDs are very similar in this case, the beam works the same way.
@@dl.electric brightness and quality are very different xhp90 is fake color quality of light that comes out It is white mixed with blue makes you look very uncomfortable compared with beautiful 5000K,6500K light from the real XHP70.2 SST40 led is much brighter than chinese XHP90 and XHP70.2 is 2-3 times brighter than the SST40
@be4885 Yes, you are absolutely right about that. Well I tried to order a real XHP70.2 LED but for some reason farnell didn't approve my payment (Or didn't accepted my card). So, right now I'm working on my dissertation, I can't do a good comparison, but once I'm done with my education stuff, I'll get to it! Hopefully, It will be at the end of the summer!
Thanks for this vid, at first I don't knew the difference between xhp 70 and 50 I've thought Its just a name haha. I've already bought 3 pcs of xhp 70.2 because its on sale on or local online store named Lazada worth 60 ph pesos (1USD ) haha shipping was included. Its was too cheap for its quality, I'm quite impressed. Hope it last long. I'm using 18650 3500mah liitokala battery and gives me 3 hours of steady use. Planning to buy 21700 with 5000mah capacity.
Hello! You are very welcome! Glad to hear you enjoyed the video! Yes, as far as I have researched, CREE LED manufacturers have released several versions with LED, CREE led XHP35, XHP35.2, XHP50, XHP50.2, XHP70, XHP70.2 and other models, but not XHP90, this is false! www.cree-led.com/products/leds/xlamp/xhp/ I currently only have the Chinese versions with these names, but they are unlikely to match reality (maybe close to it), but certainly not in terms of quality. So I wouldn't have high hopes for your flashlight which was cheaper, in your case! As it's in my case: the flashlights works great for me so far, but one of the flashlight is draining the battery by itself (don't know why). Might need to make a video about this! Good luck with your treasures and let me know how it goes?!
@@dl.electric I'm pretty sure that we have the same chinese version of the flashlight (xhp 70.2) the only difference I saw is the charging port you had a micro USB mine had a Type C. I got it cheaper because I have vouchers that Ive used, and I saw It on their aliexpress shop that they are selling it from 15-25 USD luckily I got it for a dollar haha! Thank you for the link, yeah there is no cree xhp 90 or 199, 320 etc. Thanks for your vid I find the real deal haha. Anyways I'm using it during cycling @ night brighter than a motorcyle headlight haha. Have a great day!
@@deesmacks4345 Hello! Unfortunately I don't have a GT10 so I can't say for sure, but basically the question is: better for what? For example, the GT10 has a side LED, which is convenient for illuminating the room when the flashlight is off hands. But if you mean the technical parameters, then I have to look at the numbers and make comparison. In general, if the LEDs are similar, then the power consumption will be similar and therefore the brightness. There may be nuances where they differ, like different design details, but overall it's really hard for me to tell. I would say, they are more similar than different
Well, the front part of the flashlight consists of a lens focusing mechanism and an LED. Similar to how a film projector achieves a sharp image with the help of focus, the same happens here. The LED is at such a distance that the image of the LED itself is projected through the lens. It could be changed by slightly (mechanically) moving the led deeper into the lamp frame, so that it is not in focus and the projected image is blurred.
@@LastTrump7 It could be related to some boat component, possibly a capacitor, but I might look into this in more detail in a video when I have time! Interesting question, thanks!
Hi! Glad you're reaching out to me! If you can afford it, I would recommend replacing all the glass with a screen. You'll save a lot of time, my friend! I did the same for this very reason! It is better to order with a frame so that you don't have to glue the glass in place. In this type of tablet, it is very difficult to replace only the glass itself, since the touch screen is (in a sense) part of the glass. And the screen (LCD) is tightly glued to the glass, there is a special technique to remove the glass from the LCD. I really don't know about the mpen because it was a job for the customer, but if she doesn't complain, I think it works well! In conclusion, if you asked me, I would say change the hole. If anything, to save some money (but not time) you can try to replace only the screen, although I don't know if it's really possible here, because I was replacing the glass with frame and LCD, all toghter!
Hello! Unfortunately, I have not compared the current consumption of all these models. I have the Chinese variants of the XHP50 and XHP70, but from the XHP90 I only have the LED module. I will do a comparison one day as others have asked me this too!
@@dl.electric ok brother, looking forward to it. Oh and hey you can try a different driver that can output more than 5 amps. Seema like this stock driver is less than 2 amps.
Maybe you can buy entire camera body that is sold cheap as "non working" and swap out some of those boards/modules and find which one is faulty. But it may get uneconomical at that point anyway and chances are slim.@@dl.electric
Something is very wrong with this comparison. The XHP70 was clearly more focused. The square shape and the details are clear the XHP50 on the other hand was well out of focus.Get both beams to the same level of focus.
Yes, of course, for the products I have bought myself, my intention was to make one better than the other! As if it would do me any good! Ha ha ha... People are interesting, not in the best sense! Maybe you will make a "correct" comparison yourself!
@@Leo-gt1bx Hey, mate! Well I didn't spend too much time planning the comparison content! I just took two flashlights and tiredness to compare as closely as possible in a real environment. If you're looking for a more scientific comparison, this is not what I tend to do here! But as you know the flashlights are not the same, so I expected that result would differ! Anyway, thanks for the feedback! Peace!
At 1:00 into your video, you are able to unscrew the lense holder from the flashlight controller. I am unable to do that as my light(which is zoomable) just spins and spins. Is there another trick here?
Hello! I agree that it was easy since I had already unscrewed it before. In principle, it would be necessary to hold the part that moves still and then screw the upper part. I don't remember exactly anymore, but I used large forceps to hold the inner part still.
Hello doctor. I bought a flashlight using xhp50 3vol led today. Really disappointed with that light intensity, not as expected. I think the problem lies in the driver and can I upgrade the components from the original driver? it looks similar to the one you videotaped
Hello! If I understand correctly you are replacing the LED and driver on the existing flashlight with the xhp50? And you want to know if you can use the components of the previous driver or the driver itself? In any case, you need to be aware of the voltage level of the LED and also of how much CURRENT and voltage the driver is producing. I have a banch of aliexpress drivers, I will try to make some viode abouth this. But It's a taff time for me at the moment!
@@dl.electric It is a fake version that uses xhp50 LEDs but the driver has been cut down, it has information written on the driver that the discharge current is 1 ampere. Because of its unique shape, charging port and battery capacity indicator, it was quite difficult for me to replace it. It's not on the electronics sales site. Hopefully the doctor will have a video on power editing for the original driver
Hello! Well I'm not sure you can. You need to be aware of how much current the circuit can provide and how much the LED consumes. And the voltage depends on the type of LED. I don't know exactly the nominal LED of this model. lumen is a unit of light quantity, it is difficult to directly express it in terms of power.
доброго времени. попалась и мне такая легенда. повезло, новая, с защитными пленками. перебрал их, на плате контакты на питание были оксидом покрывшись, пропоял. контакты промыл спиртом. собрал. в итоге, циферблат не видно, если смотреть на него прямо. а если часы повернуть на свет и смотреть на них на искосяк, то видно, что они показывают. все функции работают. только четко не виден экран. где проблема?
Привет! Проблема, скорее всего, связана с поляризационной пленкой или покрытием. Возможно, вы ее помыли или она вообще повреждена. Попробуйте использовать поляризационную пленку из другого источника. "Лист поляризационной пленки" продается отдельно. Второй вариант может заключаться в том, что экран поврежден или на него не поступает достаточное напряжение. Но я бы склоняюсь к проблеме с поляризационной пленкой! www.amazon.de/s?k=Polarizing+Film+Sheet&crid=34Z1S5V5WB5HG&sprefix=polarizing+film+sheet%2Caps%2C124&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002504777268.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.d454f19cJzoQ4w мне нужно попросить у Али комиссию за рекламу! 😁
You can easily find out the zener voltage. Power on the drive and measure the voltage on the pads where the zener was and that will be the normal voltage. If you measure 3.3V then the zener is 3.3V. Then buy any standard smd zener with the same package and voltage and replace it later.
Hello! This is actually a very good suggestion and I will definitely try do it! Only, I opened another drive that had this component intact and I'm not so sure that it's a Zener diode, but possibly a different protection diode (at least it was for that drive), as far as I can believe the internet. It looked more like a Varicap Diodes type, but still need to investigate this topic to be sure! For one drive, I replaced a diode from another drive that had a damaged magnetic read section. It turns out that in the power part circuitry is somewhat similar to SSD.
This is a complex and ambiguous question! It depends on a lot of things, like what the tablet you have, how the screen is attached, how experienced are you, do you have the equipment, etc. The basic procedure is as follows: First, watch a video of someone taking apart your tablet and assess whether you have the necessary equipment (heat gun, screwdrivers, etc.). And are you sure you can do it?!? In principle, for some tablets, the screen can be replaced without heating, but by replacing it together with the frame. If you have everything you need, then you have to find a replacement screen from a dealer (local or global) who can offer it (be very careful when ordering to make sure it is your screen exactly). And then you just have to replace it by following the tutorial. That's how I started doing it. But it is not so easy to tell it step by step! Also in USA there is free to repair movement maybe there are some articles to provide some explicit ditails about individual steps. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_to_repair
Hello! If you look at the end of this video you can see the details and one of the plastic gears is broken apart(more like the core ripped off the gear). I have already repaired one by inserting a metal thread (to be taken from a screw), it gave strength for it to work. Still working, but the problem seems to be that one of the limit switches is not registering the position of the mechanism, which breaks the plastic gear. I notice that, because the mechanism what was replaced in this video broke again after a year of use (exact same problem, plastic gear!)
@@dl.electric I am having difficulties taking off the plastic trim. I have a feeling that I will brake something if I pull harder. What size is that torx?
@@35o125 It really comes off quite hard, so you need to take it out carefully. Not sure about the torx but looks like a 26 or 25. I don't have time right now, but I could do a video on how I fixed it!
Hello! If you mean LED, it depends on where you live! I ordered from Aliexpress, but I have also seen it in some Internet catalogs! You have to google it!
Hi! This was a repair for an customer and yes, the LCD was fine, there was broken glass and touchscreen wasn't working. But as the LCD and touch are glued together, I replaced both at the same time.
I have the "xhp70.2" version obviously not real XHP70.2 But if I'm being honest they ain't too bad for 12$ I estimated the output to be around 1,600lm even though they claimed 4,000 which is obviously not happening, I've owned my for over a year now and it has survived, i tried to take it apart but i could only get to the driver and from what i can tell the only way to get to the LED and take it out is through the lens which with a really fine flathead screwdriver and razor blade i was unsuccessful in removing It was damaged slightly in the process but it doesn't affect the light in any way, if you still have these and you are willing to take one apart to show us how LED is removed i would appreciate it, i am planning to possibly put a real xhp70.2 in it and see how it does with the stock driver (using 21700 battery measured about 17w power draw with mine) would also like to check the heatsinking but even though i doubt they've used any sort of thermal paste i think it is fine. Edit: i see you done a teardown, thank you so much you are the only person I've come across who's taken this particular light apart.
Hello! Yes, this flashlight was difficult to disassemble (not straight forward). I'm glad I helped you solve the problem with the help of the teardown video! If there are any ideas, I can make another similar video! :) This is very interesting topic also for me! At the moment I'm a bit busy working my casual job and other stuff :D, in free time I'm working with acoustics, amplifiers and old tape recorder repair and instellation! Cheers mate!
Hey man! At the moment I don't have such a flashlight in my assortment! It seems a bit to be 30euro or so, I could order this flashlight and make the video for you in future upcoming video, lets say after 3 months or so?
Hello friend, I would like to ask for some views and opinions from you.Can a flashlight originally using CREE XHP 35 HD LED be changed to LUMINNUS SFT-40?If possible, what will happen to the drive. Will the drive experience side effects?One more thing, can you explain a little bit the difference between CREE XHP 35 HD LED and LUMINNUS SFT-40?Is the driver using LUMINNUS SFT-40 more powerful than the driver using CREE XHP 35 HD LED? I need an explanation, help from you, my friend.
Hello! This is a very difficult question, in a way! Unfortunately, I do not have access to such flashlights, so I can only look at what the Internet has to offer. When it comes to an LED driver, two characteristics are basically important, the current and the voltage it supplies to the LED module! If the voltages on the LED terminals match (for example 3.2V), then this is a good start. Each LED module also has a characteristic current consumption (eg 1.5A). If you replace the old one with a new led that consumes more, there are three scenarios, the driver may start to emit additional heat, or the LED will shine more dimly, or there will be no change at all. In your particular case, it depends on small details that I don't know. But in general, if the voltages and current characteristics are more or less similar (3.3 and 3.2 V are still acceptable) and (1.5A and 2A), then I say that you can safely change them and nothing bad will happen. A higher current driver may be usable, it's even better! Basically, all flashlight manufacturers work with similar components and the difference is in the design and features they provide. Here is the technical data sheet for the "luminus" model: download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SFT-40-WxS_Datasheet.pdf But for "XHP32" I found the following, which may not match your model: download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SFT-40-WxS_Datasheet.pdf Another technique would be to measure the voltage on the terminals of a switched-on flashlight with a multimeter and compare the numbers actually. As far as I can find on the internet, it looks about the same. You just have to see if the XHP has a much higher voltage!
@@dl.electric I just downloaded the data about the Luminus SFT-40 LED and I looked at it. It seems simple but in fact it is a very complicated matter.That's not even the driver in the flashlight. You're right Doc. Electric, it's actually very complicated.But if I look at the data and I make a conclusion,If I want to change LED XHP 35 HD to SFT-40, I think the driver must also be changed.In my personal opinion, CREE XHP 35 HD LED with Luminus SFT-40, the difference is very noticeable.Anyway, thanks for Doc.Electric response to my chat.I really appreciate it.One more thing, it is true that there are many types of LEDs on the market and they have many different characters and specific purposes.
You are welcome! Glad I can help you! Answering your question - yes, the markets at the moment are saturated with all kinds of LEDs and led drivers. And they all are very different and for different purposes! www.educba.com/types-of-led/ This simple article will give you more information on this topic! Overall, I'm glad you're into this stuff! Good luck mate!
@@dl.electric It also took me a long time to understand the LED and also the flashlight. I am interested in the tactical flashlight.What I understand so far, Luminos SFT is more for throwing light. and a little spill including LED type SBT. Both are very powerful and the driver is also quite powerful compared to flashlights that use led xhp cree 35 hd.I think, I might just change the led xhp 35 hd to xhp 35hi. for a little denser and brighter. because the xhp cree 35hd has a dome.
@@Screaming.Eagle101 hi mate! It seems you're very into this topic, great! Also, you should consider, that each LED has a different beam angle and the reflector is specially selected for that LED! And each LED also has a different power dissipation, so that the case is specially made to work for the best to release that heat. As I said before, this is complete stuff, you should really research this topic in depth! But if you pick a similar flashlight, chances are the apriori mentioned is also similar!
Hello! Yes of course! You see, when AC current is applied to the transformer, the loose windings of the coil start to move a little. In my case it makes noise. To avoid this, I filled the empty space with some material. So I used a liquid that is usually used to cover the paint and give the surface a shine. Something like this: www.britannica.com/technology/varnish Hope this clears things up for you. Also I use a vacuum chamber to soucke in the liquid.
Yes, I really hope so too! At the moment, it looks like improvements are still needed. But maybe such tools will be develop even more nowadays! It's just happens so: if a tool becomes very good eventually, it's only available for a fee! :D
Hello! Yes, longevity test after charging is on my list of things to check. It depends on the size of the battery and the current consumed (it is different for each mode). Speaking of prices, I haven't researched yet, it depends a lot on the country you are in! For example, in America, many things are cheaper than in Europe, due to import duties. But Aliexpress often sells fake brands!
@@jsplasha I guess you are right! But why do the Chinese use such a designation in their advertisements? www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001277968919.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.3113677cDIAjtX&algo_pvid=391ae1d3-aff2-450d-afc2-d89903fdf208&algo_exp_id=391ae1d3-aff2-450d-afc2-d89903fdf208 fc2-d89903fdf208-0&pdp_npi=3 %40dis%21EUR%2130.56%2130.56%21%21%21236.72%21%21%40212279a216891412197185073d0763%2112000015558218133%21sea%21LV%210&curPageLogUid=NEfSiw2 trShK
Привет! Есть несколько причин, которые могут быть виноваты: 1. Проверьте, издают ли часы звуковой сигнал, используя другой динамик или пьезоэлемент. Если динамик работает, проблема, вероятно, в старом пьезоэлементе, который необходимо заменить. 2. Проверить пьезо пульсации с другим источником звука, например выходом на наушники от другого устройства. Если работает, то у часов плохой контакт с пьезоэлементом, либо повреждена пайка или дорожка, либо пропал аудиовыход. 3. Если ни часы, ни пьезо не работают, то нужно проверить, не повреждены ли часы. Пьезоэлемент часов получает положительный сигнал (плюс) от корпуса и звуковой сигнал от маленькой пружинки на печатной плате. Возможно причина проблемы в плохом контакте между этими элементами!
Hello! Well, it looks like you have a similar problem that I cover in this video! Therefore, I recommend replacing the screen or taking it to a repair service center. Best of luck!
According to etka this is part code for Variant: 5M0827505B . I ordered spare part (unnoficial) with this number and it matched. Please note that with unnoficial part cover for lock (it is hidden inside) will not match (part code 3C9 827 645 A) but it is not needed and doesn't influence the locks work. Hope that helps!
As you said. How did you know how to hook it up to your controller? Where did you get the information and how did you decide which pins to use? Thanks for the video. How do you know if you need to add components to the micro controller to get it to work, such as a crystal or capacitors and or resistors? It would be nice to pick one and program it starting with a bare chip. You could use the chip on the arduino and that would answer the question about the caps and crystal right off the bat. I am old and just learning so any help on programming would be greatly accepted. Have a nice day.
Hi! Well I have worked with this microcontroller (mc) few years ago, so I know quite a lot about this particular one! In order to run simple blinki program, there is no need for lot of components. 1. You should check, does the mc provide internal clock! This is important, because without the clock signal it can't run at all! So it it does, you need only power supply and led with resistor and you're good to go! If it doesn't provide internal clock, then you must connect and external clock source and also select that in #pragma configuration (in fuse bits).
In my experience, I had some problems to write a program into single Arduino chip but in PIC microcontrollers, there is quite easy, no struggle for me. I guess that's just experience issue. Other than that, I started with simple pic16f628a very basic, I also started to write code in assembly language. But in order to understand what you should do with the microcontroller, you should use 3 sources: 1) datasheets, 2) user manual and reference notes, 3) some good example (simple but good)! Good luck and stay sharp!
