I just want to thank you amigo, my 2017 Escape just started making this noise today and after watching a video I was freaking out thinking it was my tranny.
am a tool maker the plug diameter is 13.6 and must be impreil English but i lost my thread gauge but i did not check my TPI i what to buy tape then tape 1 hole itsgoing half way .is it uif Bsf its the plug of Ford ranger petrol
Loved your presentation!! Clear, concise and informative. I was waiting to see if you were going to make any mention of Whitworth. Are they determined more like the Metric or the SAE. Thoughts?
Well damn! My 2011 RAV4 just started making this noise and I was sure it was a developing tranny issue!! I'll be trying this test and scoping out alternators now! Thanks for the vid!
In a metric bolt the number on the head is not considered a decimal number. Instead, it consists of two independent numbers separated by a dot. The first number indicates the bolt's tensile strength, and the last number represents the yield strength as a percentage of the tensile strength. So 10.9 means: tensile strenght= 1000 Mpa (=1000N/mm2) and it yields at 0.9x1000= 900 N/mm2. 8.8 is the base level, I have never seen anything less. 10.9 is the strongest You can get with corrosion protect coating. 12.9 is just bare steel. But I learned a lot about inch stuff. Thanks
You Saved My Life! I thought had something messed up with my engine from being too low on oil or something. Unplugged that cable and the noise went away! I bought myself an alternator and slapped it back together and it's running nice and smooth again! Thank you so much! 👌
I have a 2005 Toyota Prius with the same sound. I went to Toyota dealership and two other mechanics. They all said I would need a different engine/swap. Over $5000. God bless you for this video.
I just now started having that same problem and I have a 2010 Camry. Can you tell me, what is the update on yours? What was the problem on your end and how much did it cost you?
I would expect ripple if it was a voltage regulator. Personally, didn't see any on mine, and it mostly occurs during high current which makes me think just the pully bearing.
dang it, i think mine is starting to go bad, and at a stage just before this...after replacing my headlight assembly and testing the lights etc...I heard this exact whistle noise (minus the extra grinding in the video)..it didn't make the whistle this morning, but i also have start-up and idle issues...great, add it to my list of things to do..lol
I been having random, then cyl #3 misfire, back and forth. Had dist cap, rotor, wires, plugs installed. Then soon after, same codes again , so someone removed cyl #3 and there on the plug was carbon tracking. I don't know about the boot nor the other plugs. What would cause the carbon tracking ?
Why would a tire cup at the location of each tread depth indicator? My tires are cupped and each low spot (cup) occurs directly across each of the tread depth indicators as if those locations were left high from the factory. Never see than before.
So, while I am waiting for my new alternator to arrive, my guess is to unplug the alternator and charge the battery between short drives and don't drive at night. I sure ain't going to drive it while cooking the alternator...
Eggzackly! My Toyota doing the same thing. Video is great, except you didn't say what the solution was. I scrolled the comments and found most people have fitted a new alternator.