Welcome to Sarawak, a state of Malaysia in the heart of the beautiful island of Borneo.
This is a maker channel involving woodwork, 3D printing and design and anything else I care to try my hand at. What I make from wood will mostly be from local timbers where I hope to show off the beauty of the tropical timber that can be found in Borneo.
I aim to inspire others to go out and make their own things, find a field that interests you as a hobby and pursue it, for both enjoyment, experience and to learn new skills.
I am by no means a master but more a jack of all trades. What I do is for entertainment (mostly mine) and is not always the safest or best way of doing things as I am also learning as I go along.
If you mean that it is a single piece handle with the tang (the other long end of the knife) going into the handle typically I would drill a hole the length of the tang through a block of wood then turn the handle on the lathe then epoxy the tang in place but I know not everyone would have access to those tools so probably the most reduced equipment option would be to get a block of wood and drill the tang hole through it and then shape the handle to suit you using something like a Shinto rasp (very useful tool to have and worth getting if you want to shape wood but dont have space/cash for machines). Hope thats helpful. Alternatively if you want something that is a bit different and the tang is suitable you can look into something like stacked leather handles which I personally think are pretty neat.
Wood can have a short lifespan if it isn't looked after properly, however the wood used in this handle was Belian which is one of the most durable timbers in the world and is extremely rot resistant.
Teak is naturally more waterproof than most other woods but as long as you treat the wood with something like tung oil, the wood should be water resistant enough for daily use and cleaning.
Matey for a How to video you Completely missed the area Of how to get the Rivets out or is this men's shed Secret Stuff ...Geeze alI wanted was some method to get the Rivets and Handle Off an Eight inch Scanpan Cooks Kniff...🦕
Around the 2 minute mark I split the top of the rivet with the dremel tool and a metal cutting bit. The easiest method of getting the rivets off depends on the type of rivet they used. If they are the blind press type like in this video then just splitting them at the end will cause them to weaken enough to be pulled of with some pliers. If it's a pin like the type I replaced it with then cutting the top few mm off or drilling it in a few mm should allow it to drop back through the hole.
@@jeremylivingstone4110 rope like a para-cord wrap? Not sure what you are asking about with the rope and resin part. If you are talking about setting some rope in resin and then making scales from it, it should work fine if you can get enough penetration into the rope through either a vacuum or pressure pot.
Hi, Are you adding a "stain" to the wax? If so, will any stain do? Like a Varathane wood stain? BEAUTIFUL WORK! I have an "espresso" color Varathane stain on hand. Thanks!
No stain, its just beeswax and some boiled linseed oil mixed together. Wenge is a pretty dark wood on its own and probably wouldn't show anything but a pure black stain anyway. I also think a danish oil would also produce some nice results with wenge.
Exactly what I need! The chef at my restaurant asked me to restore his first chefs knife as it will be his Xmas gift to his son, this video saved me alot of headache thank you
I bought a cheap slow cooker/crockpot I got at a second-hand store for $5 - I don't have to worry about the mix getting too hot so I can let it melt the wax without having to watch it.
Nice. I am not going to make this but can I learn some theory? I saw that you glued everything together and the handle was forced through the opening and later you also knocked in 2 pieces of wedges. Wouldn’t the wedges and forcing in the handle split up what you have glued together?
The handle was just thick enough to be a little tough to slot through with the glue on it, it will create a nice tight bond that doesn't need to be clamped this way. In terms of the wedges they are there to spread the top of the handle so that it mechanically locks into the head as well as with the glue, it's a little redundant to do both but I am pretty abusive to my mallets so I tend to want to go overboard. Edit: The wedges are in only enough to push the outer sides of the handle to apply light pressure to the sides of the mallet, they don't need to apply a heap of pressure however you could as the glue is reinforced on the head in four points so it would sustain quite a lot of force before it gave out.
very helpful! I dont think linseed oil is food safe. I might try using mineral oil or beeswax on my rehandle jobs but thank you for the the demonstration!
Original boiled linseed would be fine but even then once the dryers have evaporated off it doesn't leave nasty stuff behind anyway. To be extra careful you could use tung oil which is both food safe and waterproof.
Thanks, your idea of using the barn door runner was great. Adding bearing wheels makes a ton of difference to how smoothly you can run the sled and for the price of some 8mm stainless steel rod to make them permanent its well worth it just for the convenience.
If you mean the tool in use it is the Bosch GKF 550 palm router. It is a lightweight router/edge trimmer that retails for around RM250. I use it a lot in cutting rebate joints and other similar applications. Its a good first router as they are cheap (for a branded product), easy to handle, reliable and powerful enough to do most work if you are willing to be patient with it taking smaller bites.
Thank you! It was probably only the third or fourth time I had done something similar to this. I previously made some marking knives for my woodworking as I was unable to find quality ones over here.
We have a set of Sabatier knives that have all started cracking. We have never put them in the dishwasher so we were very disappointed at these so-called quality knives doing this. But now I can use your method and put some real quality handles on, so thank you for such a good method. I might even practice with dowels instead of metal because the contrasting wood might look quite good. Thanks for showing me how it can be done. The only problem is that I don't have such an expensive sanding wheel as yours, only a handheld sander. But we will overcome!!
I'm always happy when people use the methods I show them to get some diy done, even better when it saves them from throwing out something that should still have years of life left. The sander just makes the job quicker and a bit easier with the platform, you can use a belt sander turned upside-down if you have access to one for the same sort of effectiveness just remember to position the sander so the belt runs away from you so if you make a mistake the knife goes away rather than towards you.
Yeah that's not even half of it, a friend of a friend had several large trees come down and a few of us scooped it all up. Tembusu and African mahogany as well as a couple others from around the place.
@@MakeinSarawak It worked a treat!! Got some really nice hardwood from an offcut of engineered floor - super dense I don't know what wood it is but it's heavy, dark and sanded it to near mirror with 1500 grade (no it's not plastic wood by accident!) and sealed it. Cheers for this!
Looking forward to your tour of the workshop ....hope you have some Ideas I can use in mine { like what looks like a plumbed in dust extraction system?}
Surprisingly it seems like very little pitch in the wood at all as I can hold the shavings and they don't feel sticky or really clump together but it does retain moisture for a long time so it takes forever to dry out a piece.
It is possible to weld an extension on but depending on the cost and value of the knife it may not be worth doing that option for you. Another option is to make a middle layer that is the same thickness as the metal of the knife and use that as a spacer for the areas of the handle that the knife tang doesn't reach. The last option, which usually gives the nicest result but takes the most work is to carve the wood out of the surface that will be glued to the tang so that it fits together without any gap. This depends on how long the tang that you have available is, if it's just a short broken stub then welding it first is the only option.
If you mean the small bottle with O.B. on the side, it is a mixture of shellac, denatured alcohol and boiled linseed oil in a 1:1:1 ratio. It is commonly referred to as friction polish or Ob's shine juice and is an old woodworking finish recipe.
Carnuba is a more brittle wax and melts at a higher temperature than beeswax, it is used as more of a harder protective coating than beeswax is. Because it is more brittle at room temperature it would be less appropriate for this sort of application than regular beeswax it is also more expensive than regular beeswax. I do add mineral oil to my carnuba wax blocks to make them softer allowing for better application to a buffing wheel though.
I see you used yellow beeswax…. Would white work as well??? Also, is there a shelf life?? I like to make quantities but hate waste. Thank you for posting this recipe…. I love everything about abrasive wax except for the cost of commercially available brands! And I love making things myself… guess that is part of being a wood turner, woodworker, hobby welder, compound bow tuner, etc….
White beeswax is just a processed form of natural beeswax so that the colour doesn't interfere with the colour of the product that it is used in (usually cosmetics) and wont effect the usage of the wax in any way. The shelf life will depend on the temperature of the surrounding area in that eventually the mix will start to seperate however in that situation remixing it will solve the problem. Nothing in the mix will "expire" or go rancid over time as long as you use mineral oil.
Woodturning is the process of the wood spinning whether you use a gouge, shaped cutter or a scraper so it is still woodturning. However this was just a piece of scrap wood that happened to come out with a nice colouring and pattern and was meant to just be a test of what the wood was like so I had no intention of making it an "art piece" and spending the extra time to turn with a gouge. It was only after I saw the nice pattern that I even decided to keep it.
I'm not a woodworker but appreciate watching what you do. I'm glad you say this was a test, something others probably understood. I kept staring at the hole in the bottom and thinking, "This must not be a soup bowl!"
You can use pretty much anything you can shape with sandpaper using this method, bamboo should be quite good as I believe it has good inherent water resistance.
Handle looked like a couple of mine after wife ran them through dishwasher. I didn’t tell her they were expensive and should only be hand washed. I purchase her a set of of Victorinox to use.
I'm not sure what happened to this one as it belonged to my Uncle but I know I have the same sort of rules with my good set, hand wash, no scourers etc.
You could if you really wanted to but it is better to use a non-drying oil as the lubricant as it will extend the lifespan of the product and wont colour the wood.
It can be both a colourful wood and also a creamy white depending on where in the tree you get the wood from. The tree is also featured on the Singapore $5 note.
Thank you, that project was interesting designing in CAD for a project that would be hand cut rather than done with a CNC because I needed to make sure that I would be able to do the finished piece at the end.
