I wanted to add that most vids online show removing the engine, alot of work and not everyone has a garage. Just know that my next vehicle will have (one not three chains) an easily accessible timing belt.
I did the front guide block+ tensioner but I'm hearing a slap on the same bank as yours. However this gives me hope since I thought about tackling this in the same way. (or paying someone else to do it).
FELIPE VALLES I’m very confident in the way this guy approached this project. The least ford should’ve done was make an access hole on the bellhousing to reach the cassette bolt. They didn’t, so you have to remove 20 extra bolts.
I was thinking about doing the chains in mine, the front is slapping bad. But since it can be done and the right chain in the vehicle I might skip the left chain and put the guide in + let it fly . Thanks.
I had all the guides, cassettes and chains replaced with Ford parts except I used the same hydraulic tensioners I had. The thing is the rear of the engine still makes a slight rattling noise. The engine has 134k miles. Can it be these tensioners that are worn that aren't putting enough tension on the chain? Thanks.
Joel Gastelum The hydraulic tensioners are known to make noise themselves. Replacing the hydraulic tensioner would be the first thing I would replace if I had any kind noise back there besides a grinding. That could be your problem. They do make noise when they fail.
Was a little hard to watch, but this helped prepare me for my fix. Same vehicle (03 Explorer) and mine is blowing and all, but on fan setting 4 (highest) it sounds like there is something sucking to the fan or similar and the air movement is not in line with the #4 highest setting. i think my door may be laying in there as well. I agree with Andrew below - removing the glove box is simple and would have really helped you on this repair and with the camera angles. I was even going to say the seats remove from these things with 4 bolts and < 1 min of effort, that would have given you even more room to work. Thanks for taking the time and if you keep making videos you will get better at the post processing needed to make a good video. Keep it up! Thanks again, Clay
ChaconMusic This video is the Explorer I repaired with the rear timing chain guild. Yes 4x4 it is. Copy and paste the link or find it in my other videos a white explorer all cleaned up. I ended up selling it to my neighbor. He really liked it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IQBWv0vI25Y.html
ChaconMusic No I did drain the transmission. I lost about 1/2 quart when I removed the transmission coolant lines. Never refilled the transmission and it worked fine when driven daily.
Gancycle Ok that's a relief because I ordered aftermarket kit and some people are saying they are of bad quality. But if your neighbor has it a year later, must be pretty good!
Sounds like you have a problem with hydraulic tensioner. Not sure which one is bad on your motor. On my motor where I was working. It was above the rear passinger spark plug. A large style
Large style bolt with a short flat head. Can be moved with a wrench. Not sure where your problem is. Look into it. Find what area is bad on your motor. Should have one there. Should be an easy fix. Hope this helps you.
Your hydraulic tensioner works with oil pressure That tensioner has weak pressure at start up. That tensioner pushes on the tensioner guide that I had to replace. Your noise is at start up. My noise was all the time. You could say the tensioner is about the size of a spark plug. About 3 inches long. Screws in just like a spark plug. Oil pressure pushes into it and it expands. If bad no expansion.
Hey brother same I have a ford explorer with the same problem of the window open and you get a lot of air to the van and thanks for the video I'm going to fix it and I know where the problem is
Hey brother same I have a ford explorer with the same problem of the window open and you get a lot of air to the van and thanks for the video I'm going to fix it and I know where the problem is
Several things I would add: I took the glove compartment off altogether. It is three screws and makes it much easier to work in that area. Once the fan blower is removed, I was able to reach up and remove the mesh and then reach up and re-attach the flap. It was not necessary or helpful to try to pry open the housing. There was also a metal bracket that held the housing to the dash. I removed three screws and took that metal bracket out. This allowed me to easily reach the vaccuum actuator at the top of the housing to re-attach the flap. Now, the question will be how long will it stay on there until the next time it comes unhinged and falls down to block the blower. We shall see. It is certainly some sort of design flaw.
