@@stevangucu522 I've watched some videos about old John Deere tractors, and they have some really confusing gear shifters to say the last... I'm sure it's not that but once you learn about it but to me they look very confusing, the russian tractors have pretty easy pattern. Just have to remember it because they're not in order at all.
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Looks horrible at first glance but this is very typical for a old Soviet tractor that has no oil changes in many decades. I think the reason why one of the gears looks so worn is the slack in the spider gears. That is a very common T-25A problem and the reason is the bearings are just too weak from the factory. Also not made to pull very hard loads so that is also one way how to ruin your transmission for good. Some of the hydraulic filter disks look collapsed so you should get new ones when you do the next oil change. Also the oil is like a milkshake cause of moisture contamination from many decades. These hydraulic tanks do have a vent but it's usually not working at all. What I found with premade gaskets is sometimes you have to punch the holes larger cause some of them don't exactly fit. Hydraulic leak from the leaver pivots is super common but the cheapest fix. I think in the future you have to return and fix the differential. I know it's easy to say for me but before you take it apart. Make sure you have the parts already from a donor tractor and do the research. Other wise it's like you take it apart and find out there are no replacements anywhere. That is very typical for Harkov T-25 tractors. Thanks for the update video.
Steve my friend, you always have the best tips and advice thank you. didn't even know the tank has a vent actually. the spider gears have some weird washers pushing them in right? I should check that out sometime, also I think the transmission is so loud because some gears are more worn than others (some are from donor tractor already) is that possible?
@@nobodyha8760 One of your vents is on the transmission cover that small knob like thing. The hydraulic vent is on the filler cap, its a very small hole drilled on the side or in the center. They are most of the time plugged up with dirt. From what I can see from the video is one of the differential gears for the left side is toast. That can happen when there has been excessive bearing slack. So one side is moving closed to the spider gears and rubbing against them. If there are slack adjusting shims they might be just gone or incorrectly installed. That can cause misalignment. As for the crawling of the gears it might be to do uneven wear but also to do other factors. I would first invest into getting a good used differential with good spider gears and than replace the bearings also. Other wise all the hard work is for nothing.
Hey hey friend! i have a MTZ-82 with pony engine aswell but i can't seem to get it to start, i always have the diaphgram on the carburator eat it self so it floods easily. and i surely blame the Magneto because it has weak spark but i dont know how to clean a magnet. Any suggestions?
You can try to adjust the screw on the side of the carburettor, but if that doesn't work you might have to open up the carburettor and bent the little metal plate that lets fuel get into the carburettor. My pony engine also fluds very easily, but recently I've found a way to get it to not overflud. 1. Open fuel tank tap and let some fuel get into the carburettor and let it flud just a little bit then close the fuel tank tap. 2. Attempt to start pony engine. 3.if it starts then very quickly open the tap so the pony engine gets fuel. 4. if it doesn't start give it some more fuel and try again or if it's fluded then crank it a bit until it's not fluded. 5make sure your choke is adjusted, it's the front door thingy on the carb. These carburettors have bad design so they can be a hassle.. good luck!
@@nobodyha8760 i tried that but no luck :P, i tried to clean the magneto too but before i tried and after i still had weak spark, i don't really know how to adjust the magneto spark and timing. problem is i have a starter on my pony engine i got choke lever in cabin with killswitch but still its not starting when i have timing and the carburator PERFECTLY tuned. i am kinda stuck, i mainly need to fix the magneto.
@@TheMechanicFromEstonia you can adjust the spark timing by loosenithe 3 bolts that hold it and rotating the magnet, also make sure the sparkplug gap it correct and not too big. also make sure your spark cable is in good condition and doesn't spark to somewhere else too
For a DIY chicken coop it came out to be a true master piece. have seen one guy who used wooden towels instead of nails or screws. Like that I call true survival old school tech. The end result came out to be very good. The only issue I see is the foundation needs to be more secure so that foxes can't dig there way in from underneath the fence.
Good work. I think you need a better rear bucket for all your tools. Also I hear the transmission and rear axel are making some not so great noises. Has it been that way for a long time?
@@nobodyha8760 Every Russian tractor I have worked with has had the transmission always on the noisy side. Most likely it is wear and the oil may have to be changed out at some point in time. Now you can just make sure it has oil where it is supposed to have oil and top off the level if it is low for some reason. If the oil looks discolored or a milkshake it needs serious attention.
Good work. Btw your Belarus hood is from 1971. That was the first year with the square hood having the top side open up by unscrewing the bolts. The next year they got rid of it, they made a full hood with no removable pieces. Any plans for the future?
Thank you! Yeah, I thought so about the removable pieces... Was that to cool the engine better or what? I definitely have more work to do on the tractor but for now I don't have time or money sadly... Btw how do you know that fact about the hood?
@@nobodyha8760 The removable piece was a remnant from the round hood. I think the idea was you can remove it to work under the engine without lifting the entire hood off? Maybe cooling also? I found these facts from studying the old owners manuals and from looking at tractors that have not been rebuild and have remained mostly original. Money is a big issue with these machines, the more neglected they are the more you will have to throw money at them.
eu es vel nesaprot ka tu startoji tu kko prepoji vai ka i mean man dzirkstele ir nopirku jaunu carb , kaukas vrb jaregule carbai vai kaukads cita lieta es meiginaju iedarbinat to puskac jau 10 reizes izdariju full engine rebuild nekas nenotiek vrba kaukas ar choke un to gas thing jakas pasaki kadi tev setting carb
Somehow eneded here and for the first time i can comment having done something 'manly', we split the motor and cabin fron a Belarus, replaced 'something' from the axel located between the transmissions and the motor and managed to put all parts back. Most have only changed car tires, so feels good - although the tractor was not mine. As a bonus, helped changed the breaks from a Fordson Super major digger, had to reherse it two times until the wheel spung. Have fun and keep the oldies going!
These modern fuel hoses are trash. Maybe last a few years and they start leaking or break like plastic. If I compare my tractor cold start to this one, yours takes significantly longer. The difference may come from different engine wear.
@@nobodyha8760 Probably transfer pump and one way return valve need to be swapped out. Fuel pump repair itself without any previous knowledge and a fuel pump rack is something i would not try to do.
You can get a new wire harness for T-25A3 might be around 40eur or so. The one thing I don't like on these tractors is the original high pressure fuel pump and the overflow system for the injectors.
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Yo -ma yo ! Tokia lupena restauruot.....🤭 Better find used - good condition MTZ-50 or even MTZ-80 cabin. If you robbed local bank recently you should buy MTZ 80 newer bigger cabin. Saliut from Lithuania!
jo a tu zini ka lai salabot starter engine head jo kautkada veida parvilkas vikne prieks spark plug vel projam nevaru salabot traktoru mtz 52 nu vins iet bet nevar iedarbinat bez vilksanas jo starter motors sapisas
There should be a original outlet at The front of The water pump, atleast there is One on my 82,should be better to conect The presure side tu that and conect The return to The back of The block. Awesome video
That is some swanky heater but it works. I have seen UAZ, JUMZ-6 and MTZ 82 heaters installed into the MTZ 50 cabin. You could install anything but there is very limited space to put it.
Sveiki, pirmo pievienoju pie dzesēšanas trubas kas nāk klāt pie motora galvas (kabīnes pusē), un otra vienkārši aiziet atpakaļ uz radiatoru. Drīz samontēšu video par to sildītāju, tajā varēs visu viegli redzēt.
I like the 3d printed seals for the windows. You can not get new ones anywhere cause they stopped making them 40 years ago. And who said 3d printers are not useful for making parts? You can take the amp gauge out cause you already have a voltmeter. I used hydraulic washers on all my oil fittings cause the copper ones need to be made soft before they will seal. Just personal reference cause sometimes you need to take the system apart multiplied times. Round LED lights would have been nicer but again personal preference. Also the hood now looks way better. I found out there are two versions of this MTZ hood. First one is the one you have for the smaller air cleaner cause the hood surface is flat. The later on has a cavity on both sides for the larger air cleaner to fit in.
lol wtf bro likas jkad tu krievietis jebak cali man tada problema man puskac starter motors nav compression liekas kad huina vecais sparkplug laiz gaisu gar malam