Heeltoe offers entertaining and informative content for all kinds of Hondacar fans. Located in the Portland, Oregon area, we bring content on our TSX, TL, S2000, NSX, Integra, and more!
Since 2002, Heeltoeauto.com has provided top-level products and customer service to Honda and Acura enthusiasts around the globe. But more than an online parts store, Heeltoe is our life! On this channel, we share content created as we cycle various different Honda and Acura models through the shop and to the track.
The #HeeltoeGarage isn't just where we keep our Honda collection; it's our vlog theme as well! Our garage space is over 1300 sq-ft, giving us ample room to create great videos to show product unboxing, DIY install tips, product and shop car features, Heeltoeauto.com shopping tips, vlogs, and more!
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People who ride there brakes, my neighbor for instance, absolutely warp their rotors. You can see her warped rotors almost with the naked eye... 😂... But, I do understand what you are saying.
Thank you so much for your content and sharing with the community @Heeltoe I want to undertake this job myself, but my biggest concern is not messing up with the electronic brake. Would you be able to share with us information if we need to set the car to maintenance mode or anything about not ruining the electronic braking system? Thank you very much again!
Hello, I have a CRX 1985 with a B18c6 engine My question is which torsion bars (mm) should I buy so that the original shock absorber doesn't come together. Then the car leans very heavily in curves on the race track I usually ride on three wheels. I plan to buy the stabilizer bar set too. I would like to drive the car on the street and sometimes on racing Track with semi-sliks. Please Help me to buy the right kombination Later i buy the damper coloiver from BC-Racing to👍👍 My CRX: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sz8P5uEwxsk.htmlsi=BIrOW1twUAig2iGY
Man I just bought a rear lip spoiler from somewhere else before I watched this video. I noticed it didn’t have any holes it’s made from abs plastic. Will it crack or should I drill tiny holes myself?
Even when you explain to them that's it's just pad deposits and exactly how it happens, they refuse to believe their rotors aren't "warped." I've fully cracked apart dozens of rotors from hub to edge but literally never had a "warped" rotor. Some people just love to pay mechanics for unneeded labor or parts, I guess. It's worth noting that a few hundred miles of street driving on track pads will wear any transfer layer off due to their abrasiveness when outside operating temp range. Then you can rebed.
Thanks for your content, glad to see your TLX is still holding up well after those track days. I sometimes feel I barely push my own type s far enough because I want it to last as long as possible. I love my car so much.
The track days are done but the car impresses for a few laps for sure! There is a hard ceiling to what the brake system can safely do, and it is not related to the pads and rotors and calipers.
any help/recommendations on how to fix my fitment on my 15’ TLX. at the moment i got a 19x9.5 +22 with 245/40r19 tires, aggressive look but I am struggling lowering the front end of the car without rubbing when turning. also on bc coilovers
Sure would be happy to give some advice! The offset +22 is a bit low to be honest, I would go with something +35 to +40 to give more room at the fenders.
Great question, we updated the description with this info: * CT has specific notes for each of their compounds online. Here is our page detailing the notes on this pad: www.heeltoeauto.com/carbotech/1521/ According to the page, NO BEDDING IS NEEDED on the 1521. We did bed these pads as they are not being installed on a perfectly fresh surface.
Believe it or not, the slots on a rotor will almost always be facing forward in this way. The vanes on the inside of the rotor are what make the rotor directional, not anything on the surface. RB Rotors does specify which is right and which is left, and we have them correct in our installation. PS: Slots are really not to to do with heat dissipation as much as they are for evacuating dust and gases released from the pads.
@@Heeltoe. Thanks for the response, I thought both the vanes and the slots played roles in rotor directionality and heat dessipation LOL. U learn something new everyday.
Put these on my tl. They were a tight fit I had wack them a bunch with a mallet. I am worried about binding because as you can see on two of the bushings the rubber sticks past the sleeve. After calling super pro they said it shouldn’t be a problem and that I don’t need to shave them down. Time will tell I guess
@@Heeltoe. haven’t driven much. Still need to get an alignment. I’ll put them to the test in some canyons and let you know. My concern is that since it’s clamping on the bushing itself and not just the metal sleeve it may cause binding or the bushing itself to spin and eventually start tearing
The JB4 is superior in everything except it doesn’t increase or delete the top speed limiter. The KTuner does tho. KTuner are kinda assholes to email and get straight answers without you being a tuning wizard.
How are these in comparison to function werk 2 piece rotors for the tlx type s? I see weight reduction is about the same. Any other benefits to go with one over the other?
Functionally, effectively the same. They are just different. The RB rotors are center-mounted which balances the heat buildup on the inner and outer surfaces better.
You're wrong absolutely rotors warp if you never taken your rotors off of your vehicle put them on a turning lathe and turn them you will see the high and low spots and if you ever put a dial indicator on a warped rotor they are warped rotors
@@Heeltoe. I will be happy to GO back and watch again, if a miss interpreted something that led me to believe that you were saying that rotors don't warp I will correct my statement ,,. steel warps when it gets hot if it's not heated evenly any steel cast-iron warps that's why you use torque plates when boring cast-iron
you guys never answear messages : wanted to know if this product you are listing onyour website ( [PDR29-35] RB ET500 Brake Pad: Brembo Monobloc 6-Pot GT Caliper ) are direct replacement for the Bembo FM1000 pads ??
what is your opinion of fuction werk rotors ? I like the looks of them better then these .. they are more money . i was hoping you could give me an honest opinion ..they would be going on a 23 type s. thank you for all your hard work .
Functionally, effectively the same. They are just different. The RB rotors are center-mounted which balances the heat buildup on the inner and outer surfaces better. But if you like the look of the FW better we can get you those instead!
This exhaust system is definitely on my wish list. I think Acura did a good job with the exhaust on the TLX Type S but, I find myself wanting a little more sound at times…
Excellent video, HT, thanks. My 2008 Odyssey developed quite a vibration under acceleration late last year; I described it as a "shudder," since it seemed to shake the entire front subframe. I experienced this at slower speeds (leaving from a stop) and freeway speeds and mostly under high-load/torque scenarios, and never under coasting or deceleration. I had done the motor mounts, steering rack with inner & outer tie rods, and lower control arms about 18 months prior, so I didn't suspect those. Both axles were replaced about four years ago with OEM Honda units, and had only been about 30,000 miles. Upon inspection, I noticed the passenger side axle inner joint had some slop to it, enough to cause a slightly audible knock if I wiggled it up/down or fore/aft with the van stationary and lifted up. Replaced the passenger side axle with another OEM Honda part, and no more vibration. My van is lowered quite a bit (about 2") on BC Racing coilovers and bigger 20x10.0" wheels - I'm certain the lowering in particular exacerbates the axle wear issues I've seen due to the change of angle the axle must operate within. The van is low enough that the outer ends of the axles are higher than the inner joints. The Odyssey guys have had vibration issues with the aftermarket axles, so I've always stuck with the much pricier Honda parts - save yourself the labor and headache, buy OEM.
