Great walkthrough. You don't mention the interlock cable as far as I can see. In my old quiq charger the interlock was connected via green to orange wire. The Roypow seems not to have interlock. How did you solve that?
can I add a small fuse terminal block to that converter after the converter, then add maybe like 1 underflow kit and an interior cab light kit??? All led's of course.
My EZGO is a 2017 and you cannot disconnect it or it will not run. But you can muffle it and it's way better. It is located under the seat on the passenger side.
I love the video, but have a question... I have a 2007 Columbia Par Car with 48v, I would like to be able to power the rig when the key is turned on only, that way I make sure it won't drain the batteries if a switch was left on!!! Any ideas of where to get a switched 48v as input to the reducer?
Get a volt meter and find a wire behind the key that has 48v when the key is on and zero volts when the key is off. Run the hot wire to that and negative to you main negative on your battery pack
What caused it to go bad or drag in the first place? I hear stuff about a run plug not keeping good connection also. So how would one tell if the plug is losing connection or if it’s the brake?
Hitch pitched whirring noise when I get up to high speed an let off the acceleration and more so when I press the break. Is this a likely fix for that?
You might have an older RXV 08-12 with internal speed sensor and those make noise and they switched in mid 2012 to the external speed sensor and that fixed a lot of that noise. If you have the newer RXV you shouldnt have that noise and it is more likely that isn’t coming from the motor brake.
@@jbgolfcarts Thanks for the reply! And of course they did lol! I've got a 2011 RXV EV. It's so loud, but only really when I let off the acelerator at higher speeds and more once I apply the brake. Any chance there is a lubricant or something I can put on the sensor to quiet it down? Or would the entire motor need to be upgraded and get rid of the older design?
@@sghksfhk the bearing is pressed on the motor so you’ll need to get it removed and replaced and that’ll usually fix the noise problem. If you upgrade the motor entirely then that’ll fix it too.
Great video. I just bought the deluxe light kit. I converted my club car precedent to lithium so I also bought a voltage reducer but it does not have pin connector or voltage reducer harness. I’d rather use what you show in your video but the link for that voltage reducer is no longer good. Do you have a link to one like you used?
Does the dc-dc converter waste much power, since it's always cnnected to a live battery, or is it negligible? Would it be better to tie the converter to the key switch, then it only go on when key is turned on?
Has anyone had an issue with the brakes locking up after this conversion? I installed the RoyPow S51105P. It charged up fine. All lights and horn worked. Old and new battery indicator showed a full charge. I took it down the road and at about 400 feet or so, it just completely locked up. The lights were still working. Had to flip it to tow mode and push it back to the garage.
Check your batteries. I’ve had new batteries ruin these brakes with off brand batteries. Stick with Trojan, continental and US. Shouldn’t cooking these if they have good consistent voltage
Why do all these videos suck all of them I can't see what you folks are doing your hand is blocking what your actually doing or your camera is pointed somewhere else
Credit where it’s due: you did a much better job explaining safety precautions to people. There’s another fellow with a solid channel, but he jumped right into the work and didn’t really mention the ways to avoid having the system live. Most folks are smart enough to flip the switch into tow, but you did a good job explaining how the lead acid batteries are always live. That will surprise and shock some people if they don’t know what to expect. #beenthere Thanks for putting this together. ✌️ 🍻
my rxv is making a ticking noise - feels like it's from around the driver's side rear wheel - mostly on right urns but sometimes on straightaways - is this a brake issue? spline? bearing? THANKS
No. The reverse buzzer for the RXV is below the cover that has your run/tow switch. It’s wired in and can not cut it. You can only muffle it. You cut the wire the RXV will fail startup and won’t run.
It’s an awesome video but it helps if you show people what you’re doing with the camera you keep on pointing it to the floor or away from what you’re doing so you can’t tell what you’re doing
so I have a issue with my RXV I turn the key on to reverse and I hear a click the brake releases and the reverse alarm comes on but the cart doesn't move I have replaced the solenoid I was told that's the issue. but it didn't help. I found out by accident if I turn the key off and I slightly press the throttle maybe 1 or 2 inches down and turn the key back onto reverse it will do the same noises but then I will feel it slightly move I left off the pedal and press it more works fine can go to forward and it works fine no issues the entire time I drive it unless I stop and turn off the key? any ideas?
@@robertstojmilovic6870 yes it ended up being the electric brake was bad it would click but not disengage so when I would hit the pedal the brake was still on and the cart couldn’t move. But turning the key off and on multiple times it would eventually disengage and we could drive it. Replaced the clutch and it was back to working perfectly
Why take the time to zip tie and disconnect all the wires from the positive and negative, when you could just take one wire off any of the other batteries to brake the circuit???
Is there a wiring diagram? Also, trying to install blinker and brake light kit and the person that owned the cart before me installed a light kit. I thought it was plug and play, but not sure how they have it wired.
